Tragic Lantern for EOS M

Started by coutts, April 17, 2013, 01:43:28 AM

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gary2013

Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 05:19:55 AM
GD off in raw_rec/mlv_rec turns off GD only while recording. The menu item in the ML menu turns it off globally and until you turn it back on.
I understand what you are saying, 1%, but you are not addressing the fact that the display switches from correct crop display of 720 to full view 1080 when in fact I am recording 720. and this happens "after" a couple seconds of recording has gone by. and sometimes it doesn't change views. It shouldn't be changing from the correct view of 720 after recording has started a few seconds earlier.

Set Overlay GD to always on. Now setup raw recording at 720p24 Crop Mode and in that submenu for raw recording, set the GD to ON. Now record and you will see the display start off cropped in correctly for 720p and after two seconds it will pop out to full LCD frame showing 1080. If it doesn't pop out, try stopping the recording and start again and I assure you it will start doing it. If I had two cameras, I would shoot the M display showing this behavior and upload it. But I on;y have the M camera. BTW, I amonly talking about the video frame being displayed, not about any overlays.

1%

Do you have the latest build? I'm testing this with 1080P 24 and nothing is coming off. In 3x nor 1x. Can you cell phone cam it?

gary2013

Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 06:05:23 AM
Do you have the latest build? I'm testing this with 1080P 24 and nothing is coming off. In 3x nor 1x. Can you cell phone cam it?
I have the latest bot fly TL build. Test it as I just described on the M with raw 1280x720, 24 fps, crop mode. Turn both GD menu settings to on. First attempt usually works but the second attempt you will see it pop out full screen and continue on every other attempt to record.

Also, look at the framing you see when it shows full LCD view and it is not what you get when you shoot 720p. It actually shows a larger view than what you record.

1%

ok, you mean in 5x. yes it does that because canon overlays love to come back and draw over ML stuff. I think it depends on if the canon front buffer has stayed disabled or not.

gary2013

Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 06:31:19 AM
ok, you mean in 5x. yes it does that because canon overlays love to come back and draw over ML stuff. I think it depends on if the canon front buffer has stayed disabled or not.
That makes sense, then.

I have tried all combinations of the GD settings and only one shows the true framing of 720p, and that is both GD on. But then it does that switchings out full frame. So what can we do to see true 720p framing?

Edit, I just tried H264 normal video and it records 1080  and 720p as what we see framed. I then tried Crop Mode in H264 and that works correctly. Only raw recording has the problem.

The M can only do 1280x720p24 in raw, so we need a way to see the true framing when we shoot.

1%

There is no display filter otherwise you'd have it easy. You can move the focus box and then who knows what the framing is.

gary2013

Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 07:53:06 AM
There is no display filter otherwise you'd have it easy. You can move the focus box and then who knows what the framing is.
can you somehow make TL stop letting Canon change the display or should we think of somehow creating/using a 720p crop marks or a mask that shows proper framing? Just use GD off and then some way of masking that full display view down to a 720p true view?

nanomad

Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 06:31:19 AM
ok, you mean in 5x. yes it does that because canon overlays love to come back and draw over ML stuff. I think it depends on if the canon front buffer has stayed disabled or not.

A tester said it does not happen in the main ML repo though..I would have a second look at how TL manages the redraw and the frontbuffer for the EOSM
EOS 1100D | EOS 650 (No, I didn't forget the D) | Ye Olde Canon EF Lenses ('87): 50 f/1.8 - 28 f/2.8 - 70-210 f/4 | EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 | Metz 36 AF-5

1%

It could be re-enabling it from the 1/2 shutter, will have to look/compare with main.

tmorse.video

Help,

So admittedly I am new to ML and TL.  I was told by a friend how awesome the builds are and how well they work for the EOSM.  Unfortunately, I came across a snag.  After installing the latest build from Jan 22, my camera would no longer take stills or video with a manual lens attached.  Even when I re-attached the original lens (Canon 18-55mm) it would not take still photos, but would take video.  If I tried using the screen one click shoot mode, it locked the camera up.

After going back and forth several times of "re-installing the 2.02 firmware (I was never prompted to uninstall ML(TL)) and doing low-level and high level card re-formats, I think ML has been uninstalled.  For the most part the camera is fully functional, no ML OSD (I never got the menu list browser) However, I still cannot use my manual lens in either still photos or video.

Have I fully uninstalled the ML firmware?  If not how can I get it off, and gain back full usage of my EOSM?  I have a shoot this weekend, and I really need to use the prime lens.

Thank You

gary2013

Quote from: tmorse.video on January 23, 2014, 09:35:06 AM
Help,

So admittedly I am new to ML and TL.  I was told by a friend how awesome the builds are and how well they work for the EOSM.  Unfortunately, I came across a snag.  After installing the latest build from Jan 22, my camera would no longer take stills or video with a manual lens attached.  Even when I re-attached the original lens (Canon 18-55mm) it would not take still photos, but would take video.  If I tried using the screen one click shoot mode, it locked the camera up.

After going back and forth several times of "re-installing the 2.02 firmware (I was never prompted to uninstall ML(TL)) and doing low-level and high level card re-formats, I think ML has been uninstalled.  For the most part the camera is fully functional, no ML OSD (I never got the menu list browser) However, I still cannot use my manual lens in either still photos or video.

Have I fully uninstalled the ML firmware?  If not how can I get it off, and gain back full usage of my EOSM?  I have a shoot this weekend, and I really need to use the prime lens.

Thank You
sounds like you have the infamous shutterbug that has been talked about a lot here. There are three workarounds. You can find a lot out in the shutterbug thread.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8347.new#new
you have a manual lens, so that has me confused a little. But try the three workarounds.
1-untwist the lens slightly and then twist it back on
2-power off the camera and then quickly back on in a second before the red led flashes
3-my method is to reformat the camera in Canon's menus and do not tap the screen like it says. That way the ML files stay on the camera/card. If you tap the screen before hitting OK, then it will format and erase all the ML files.

I hope this works for you.

maxotics

Sometimes ML changes Canon firmware settings, like Audio for H.264.  It may have turned off "shoot w/o lens", so check that.  Also, if all that fails, re-set all options in the config menu, change from default to shoot w/o lens, then try again.

Also, I now bring an extra card for shooting still normally with the EOS-M (though haven't had much time for that lately).  Anyway, make sure you have another card with you at event without ML on it for still shooting.

tmorse.video

Quote from: maxotics on January 23, 2014, 04:00:29 PM
Sometimes ML changes Canon firmware settings, like Audio for H.264.  It may have turned off "shoot w/o lens", so check that.  Also, if all that fails, re-set all options in the config menu, change from default to shoot w/o lens, then try again.

Thanks Everyone.  I feel a little stupid now.  I had never had to set the "Shoot w/o lens" setting.  It must have come with it already enabled.  Once I found the setting, re-enabled it, and re-installed ML everything works great!  Now just to figure out how everything works!

I also, purchased a new SanDisk SDXC Pro card (32GB on sale at Best Buy for $59!!!)  JIC it was the card issue as listed in the "shutterbug" forum.  So i'll use my Microcenter (C10) cards for stills.

Again, Thank you! :D

Janke

I have also encountered the shutter bug with the 11-22 lens, but was able to reset by clearing all camera settings in the "wrench" menu. I've also had some other freezes, camera not switching on, just blinking, etc. Removing the battery has helped - so far - phew!

I hope the EOS-M build will be back soon in a more stable incarnation; it's missing from the drop-down menu at the moment.

I really need the video 3x crop, I want to use my 4mm (yes, only four mm!) C-mount lens! ;)

maxotics

Quote from: Janke on January 24, 2014, 02:40:30 PM
I have also encountered the shutter bug with the 11-22 lens

Have you shot any 720p RAW with that lens in crop mode?  Or have you seen any video on Vimeo or Youtube that has?  It looks like a killer lens with IS.  Can't get it here in the States, at least not inexpensively. 

I have a BMPCC, which is an amazing camera.  I feel for you if you don't have that option.  The EOS-M has so much potentials there just aren't enough devs to get it stable.  I wish we could clone 1%, or A1ex with an EOS-M brain ;)

Janke

No, I haven't shot RAW, only h.264.

But the 11-22 looks great even in full-size 18 Mpix stills - runs rings around my Tamron 10-24mm!

I'm satisfied with the h.264 quality of the T2i and the M, anything I shoot commercially will be shown in SD, anyway...

MobFactory

Hello! I have a couple questions for 1% or anyone who can answer them.
1. Where can i find nightly builds for eos m (if there are no nightly then where can i find latest.)
2. Could you be able to code a hack that allows you to use remote shooting (using computer as Control)
3. Any way to shoot slightly higher res like 1440p (in h.264) just so i can do cuts where there is an instant zoom without actually zooming.
4. And lastly how do i get the raw_rec files and what is the max resolution for raw?
Thanks in advance.
MobFactory

gary2013

Quote from: MobFactory on January 26, 2014, 04:56:50 PM
Hello! I have a couple questions for 1% or anyone who can answer them.
1. Where can i find nightly builds for eos m (if there are no nightly then where can i find latest.)
2. Could you be able to code a hack that allows you to use remote shooting (using computer as Control)
3. Any way to shoot slightly higher res like 1440p (in h.264) just so i can do cuts where there is an instant zoom without actually zooming.
4. And lastly how do i get the raw_rec files and what is the max resolution for raw?
Thanks in advance.
MobFactory
1- I have used TL daily builds since last July without any problems. Jerry has a website that provides easy downloads for us.
http://ml.bot-fly.com/

2- I am not aware of any way to control the M remotely. I asked a long time ago about using USB and the camera does not provide anyway to do it even using the EOS Utility app.

3- I only know of 1080p30 as the max for shooting H.264.

4- There is a long workflow to shooting raw and then editing in post. I suggest you read up first and do some searching on the topic. Try using Max's EOS-M Shooters Guide.

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82955#msg82955

1280x720 16x9 24fps Crop Mode on is the max that most of us use. You can get up to 1728 H rez, but you would have a very short Vertical rez being forced to use something like a 4:1 ratio. So, 720p24 16x9 is the most/max usable. The M is limited by the card writer having a max average speed of 37 Mbs, even if we use memory cards rated higher than 30Mbs. Many of us use the Sandisk 45Mbs card. You will waste money buying faster cards. So, we can't get higher rez video like the 5DM3, which can do 1080p24 (or higher) using 90 Mbs or more to CF cards. And they also have audio working in raw mode. There is no audio on the M when shooting raw.

Maybe 1% or some others can reply to add or correct me.

1%

You're pretty much right. You can do short bursts larger than 720P but it all depends on how long your takes are and how much memory you free up.

So largest res is probably 5x mode + multi shot NR.

MobFactory

Thanks! I just used the raw rec on 720p but im confused on why the image is stretched. Anyway i converted the video and brought them onto premiere pro cc but there is allot of aliasing for some reason and there is something wrong with the horizontal pixels as 1/2 of them lag behind the rest. Also there are random blue stripes on the building.  Any ideas on how to fix?

[EDIT]
My gawd youtube is bad at compressing you cant see the horizontal pixel problem... Here's an image:

gary2013

Quote from: MobFactory on January 26, 2014, 08:34:58 PM
Thanks! I just used the raw rec on 720p but im confused on why the image is stretched. Anyway i converted the video and brought them onto premiere pro cc but there is allot of aliasing for some reason and there is something wrong with the horizontal pixels as 1/2 of them lag behind the rest. Also there are random blue stripes on the building.  Any ideas on how to fix?

[EDIT]
My gawd youtube is bad at compressing you cant see the horizontal pixel problem... Here's an image:

if you do not turn on crop mode in the raw settings menu, it will need to be scaled 166% in Height in your NLE post work. You also get moire and aliasing in non crop mode, so use crop mode if you don;t mind losing the wide angle and it will not have aliasing and moire. Same is true for shooting H,264 with Crop Mode On in the Raw settings submenu.

Read the Guide I linked for you. There is more to just setting the camera and shooting. Expose to the right (ETTR) and use higher ISO settings to get the best DR and lower noise. You need to extract the DNG files and possibly use PDR. A first grade will be needed on the raw files with  something like ACR. Then you need to scale height if you don't use crop and you need a noise filter since the raw is very noisy. I like the Neat Video filter. And expose to the right and use ISO  to get the best DR and lower noise.

You can sometimes avoid moire and aliasing by focusing further back in the scene do the building is not tack sharp in focus. Or something closer in front of the building. Or, use Crop Mode On.

andyroo

Quote from: andyroo on January 16, 2014, 03:29:49 AM
Is there any programmatic way to set focus to infinity with the EOS-M (and 22mm EF-M lens) and lock it there when the camera is powered on?
FYI my workaround for this was to buy the EF-EOS M adapter and a 40mm pancake. Then I just taped my lens after focusing to infinity. Hopefully the temp changes from having the camera on a wing won't need me to re-focus up on a mountain somewhere after leaving the camera outside for a couple hours...

I would have gone with AF but I tried that and the intervalometer died right as the plane got to where I cared about. Although I think that might have been due to the auto-rotate interfering. Not sure. It was that or AF.

Posting this because I had a few PMs about aerial imagery with the EOS M. Hope it's not off-topic.

evildream_pt

Hi there,
I'm looking forward to install Tragic Lantern on my EOS M.
Do i need to first install the ML firmware for this or can I install TL right away? I didn't find any TL install instructions so I assume the procedure is the same as ML.
Thanks!

gary2013

Quote from: evildream_pt on January 31, 2014, 12:12:21 AM
Hi there,
I'm looking forward to install Tragic Lantern on my EOS M.
Do i need to first install the ML firmware for this or can I install TL right away? I didn't find any TL install instructions so I assume the procedure is the same as ML.
Thanks!
welcome to the forum. you do need to run the firmware if it is the first time for TL or ML. You can find good info on how to do things at Max's EOS-M Shooters Guide.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8825.msg82955#msg82955

Gary


tupp

Does TL for the EOS-M offer control of GOP, slice and bit rate, as TL1 does for the 600D?