Author Topic: Tragic Lantern for EOS M (Read 243751 times)

jordancolburn · « **Reply #2250 on:** January 07, 2014, 06:33:39 PM »

Quote from: a1ex on January 07, 2014, 05:06:06 PM

Welcome to Linux Airlines. Unlike BMPCC, ML is a spare-time community project and nobody of us is developing full-time. Identifying the bugs is a very time-consuming process for us, and doesn't require any coding skills, so you can help a lot simply by documenting these issues properly.

BMD has full time developers and still hasn't realeased fixes/features for their cameras (audio meters?) that the ML team solved on cameras that they don't even make.

feureau · « **Reply #2251 on:** January 07, 2014, 07:01:32 PM »

Quote from: a1ex on January 07, 2014, 10:35:48 AM

You are looking for this thread: www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8539

short answer: somebody should code it.

I see. Thank you.

I don't C very well, should I just add it to https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/issues?version=EOS-M ?

a1ex · « **Reply #2252 on:** January 07, 2014, 07:21:41 PM »

I'd rather keep the issue tracker for bugs only.

IMO, this one fits best as a suggestion in that thread; it's not specific to EOS-M.

g3gg0 · « **Reply #2253 on:** January 07, 2014, 07:25:04 PM »

Quote from: a1ex on January 07, 2014, 05:06:06 PM

It happens to me every time I get bored ...

haha, wish that would ever happen to me

AlexCorona · « **Reply #2254 on:** January 08, 2014, 03:12:45 AM »

Quote from: feureau on January 04, 2014, 09:32:38 PM

What lens are you using?

22mm 2.0, surprisingly I love the drive by wire focusing on it.
MUCH better than I thought it would be!

Plus it's fun going from infinity to close focus in half a second, can't do that with any of my other lenses!

maxotics · « **Reply #2255 on:** January 08, 2014, 06:30:55 AM »

delete

spilledink · « **Reply #2256 on:** January 08, 2014, 06:09:48 PM »

Quote from: AnthonyEngelken on December 22, 2013, 12:51:07 AM

Hmm... I think we're having two different discussions. I don't really care about AF; never use it with video. I'm just wondering about the complications in mounting manual lenses closer to the sensor.

I get what you're talking about. You'd need a focal reducer like the Metabones Speedbooster or even the crappy Mitakon (that would probably be sharp enough in the center with the crop mode). Just moving the lens closer or farther away wouldn't give you what you want because the focal plane moves. You need something that reduces the cone of light but keeps the focal plane aligned properly. There was a metabones speedbooster being tested for EOS-M at one point. I don't know what became of it. You can see it on YouTube. That would reduce some of the crop from crop mode. by 1.7. Fotodiox is toying with a 2.0 focal reducer (probably not for the EOS-M). That wouldn't cover the sensor for stills but would work great for crop mode.

krisc · « **Reply #2257 on:** January 09, 2014, 11:04:48 AM »

Regarding crop factor. I have Sanyang 85 T1.5 lenses, to have a crop 1:1 (or close to it), I used focal reducer 0.75 ( 32mm dia ) from my astronomical telescope. Fits nicely to EOS M - just put as close to sensor as possible, results look promising. As soon as I make ring to secure reducer in the body of cam I will shoot test video.

feureau · « **Reply #2258 on:** January 09, 2014, 08:19:19 PM »

Quote from: krisc on January 09, 2014, 11:04:48 AM

Regarding crop factor. I have Sanyang 85 T1.5 lenses, to have a crop 1:1 (or close to it), I used focal reducer 0.75 ( 32mm dia ) from my astronomical telescope. Fits nicely to EOS M - just put as close to sensor as possible, results look promising. As soon as I make ring to secure reducer in the body of cam I will shoot test video.

Which make/model focal reducer btw?

AnthonyEngelken · « **Reply #2259 on:** January 09, 2014, 11:09:38 PM »

Quote from: spilledink on January 08, 2014, 06:09:48 PM

I get what you're talking about. You'd need a focal reducer like the Metabones Speedbooster or even the crappy Mitakon (that would probably be sharp enough in the center with the crop mode). Just moving the lens closer or farther away wouldn't give you what you want because the focal plane moves. You need something that reduces the cone of light but keeps the focal plane aligned properly. There was a metabones speedbooster being tested for EOS-M at one point. I don't know what became of it. You can see it on YouTube. That would reduce some of the crop from crop mode. by 1.7. Fotodiox is toying with a 2.0 focal reducer (probably not for the EOS-M). That wouldn't cover the sensor for stills but would work great for crop mode.

Right, that all makes perfect sense. Will keep my ear to the ground.

krisc · « **Reply #2260 on:** January 10, 2014, 02:56:25 AM »

Quote from: feureau on January 09, 2014, 08:19:19 PM

Which make/model focal reducer btw?

Good question - Focal reducers are available in any astronomical shops, I have not seen branding on them just reducing factor. Two sizes 1.25" which is traditional size of focuser and larger, becoming more popilar for 2" focusers.
China makes millions of them .... I suppose some resellers just brand them .... marketing trick.

qub · « **Reply #2261 on:** January 10, 2014, 06:00:56 AM »

Is it possible to somehow move the AF box while in MF mode? I would like to select an area for magic zoom, but the box won't move when touching the screen.

gary2013 · « **Reply #2262 on:** January 15, 2014, 01:32:57 PM »

I have TL Jan 14 2014 for the M loaded. Why does the display keep changing when I shoot raw. Most the time it starts off showing me the correct display for 720p Crop Mode On and then after a couple of seconds it goes wide full screen to not showing me the correct framing anymore?? I have tried Global Draw on and off and the problem persists with Global Draw on. Global Draw Off is not the correct framing. I thought Magic Zoom might be the problem, but I have it turned off.

andyroo · « **Reply #2263 on:** January 16, 2014, 03:29:49 AM »

Is there any programmatic way to set focus to infinity with the EOS-M (and 22mm EF-M lens) and lock it there when the camera is powered on?

I am trying to get the EOS-M with 22mm EF-M lens working in a wing-mounted system on a plane running the intervalometer function (to monitor a dam removal). I did my first flight in AF mode and the intervalometer stopped shortly after takeoff when the camera was over water - I think because AF lock wasn't obtained before the next intervalometer shot. I did the second flight in MF mode, but I have to power the camera off to mount it in the wing mount, and I can't turn the focus ring after powering it back on, so I was focused past infinity on that flight and all of the images are slightly blurry.

Basically I have to make the whole thing pretty bullet proof so contracted pilots can put the camera in the plane, press a button to turn it on (and hit the screen with two fingers if need be) and come back with pictures for me.

I fly successfully right now with a Canon D10 running CHDK, and I have a Lua script that focuses to infinity then locks the focus and takes a shot every 3 seconds. Ideally I'd like to do the same thing with the EOS M, but I don't know a reliable way to either focus to infinity every time the camera starts up, or set focus to infinity and lock it there forever. If need be I can get a different lens + adapter. But unfortunately the one thing I can't do is power up the camera, focus to infinity, then put it in the wing mount and start the intervalometer.

I am a geologist, not a photographer, so any help/hint is appreciated. Thank you all for your time,

-EDIT- after reading more about the intervalometer function, I am wondering if there is another way to do this that I am not realizing - I see that rather than shooting stills with an intervalometer I could shoot with a low FPS rate. If I could maintain autofocus this way it might work, but I don't know if it would dramatically shorten battery life. As is I get >1.5 hours, and I need at least 1 hr for the flight.

Alternatively, if there is a simple way to focus to infinity in AF then switch to MF I could do that. I thought at first that maybe the trap focus option with Intervalometer might work, but I see that I still need MF mode to do that. If somehow I could take the first picture at the horizon in AF and lock focus to that, I would be golden. And finally I didn't see if scripting is enabled yet in ML for the EOS-M, but if it is, I could try to do something with a script.
Andy

1% · « **Reply #2264 on:** January 18, 2014, 10:37:41 PM »

I don't think there is a good way to set AF, the LV af data is missing so things like trap focus or FF don't work, etc.

Quote

ASSERT: !IS_ERROR( TryPostEvent( this->hTaskClass, this, EV_VD_INTERRUPT_EVF, NULL, 0 ) )
at ./Evf/EvfState.c:504, task ?
lv:1 mode:3

I've been getting this, I wonder if its from the task limit.

a1ex · « **Reply #2265 on:** January 18, 2014, 10:58:21 PM »

More likely from LiveView state object overrides.

if you can reproduce it, comment out some stuff in state-object.c and should work again; if so, you have a starting point for narrowing down.

krisc · « **Reply #2266 on:** January 20, 2014, 01:52:49 PM »

Quote from: krisc on January 09, 2014, 11:04:48 AM

Regarding crop factor. I have Sanyang 85 T1.5 lenses, to have a crop 1:1 (or close to it), I used focal reducer 0.75 ( 32mm dia ) from my astronomical telescope. Fits nicely to EOS M - just put as close to sensor as possible, results look promising. As soon as I make ring to secure reducer in the body of cam I will shoot test video.

Test video is on line. Try

gary2013 · « **Reply #2267 on:** January 20, 2014, 07:23:26 PM »

1%,
I used Jan 20, 2014 version of TL from bot fly and I saw MLV Sound in the first ML tab. I turned it on and tried the usual raw 720p24 crop mode recording and it hanged/crashed two times. I had to pull the battery each time to recover. It created two log files so I uploaded them hoping it may be of some help with ML/TL for the M.

https://www.transferbigfiles.com/6c36e40b-2e44-4dd9-ae04-ca565677263b/V6i2xCZ-9PuwWvUrxgLfrw2

Gary

1% · « **Reply #2268 on:** January 20, 2014, 08:36:09 PM »

Same thing as I got. Also get audio didn't stop errors. On 650D/700D they've had problems with sound because of the task limit and maybe that is why it has been so bad here and none of the patches work.

gary2013 · « **Reply #2269 on:** January 21, 2014, 04:40:59 AM »

I am still getting the random display of framing when shooting rw 720p24 Crop Mode. We really need it to only show "and stay" on the correct framing. Like I mentioned before, sometimes it stays in the crop display and other times it jumps back to full LCD display after a second or two of recording. Is anyone else seeing this and what are other people doing if so?

1% · « **Reply #2270 on:** January 21, 2014, 04:50:22 AM »

GD turns off the overlays.

gary2013 · « **Reply #2271 on:** January 21, 2014, 04:54:00 AM »

Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 04:50:22 AM

GD turns off the overlays.

Yes, I know. I am saying with GD on, I "sometimes" get it to stay in cropped display showing the correct framing for 720p24 Crop Mode. Sometimes it jumps out back to full view display which is not the correct framing for what I am recording. It is random... more often then not.

Edit-ok, I now see there are two Global Draw menu items. I have been talking about the GD on/off that is found in the Movie tab in the submenu for raww recording settings. I have always left the Globl Draw on in the the third tab, Overlays. It must be fighting as to which setting of GD to use?? Why is there two GD menu items?

1% · « **Reply #2272 on:** January 21, 2014, 05:06:47 AM »

I tried it and it does pop the overlay off for a second when its disabling the front buffer, after that it comes back. With GD on

gary2013 · « **Reply #2273 on:** January 21, 2014, 05:18:04 AM »

Quote from: 1% on January 21, 2014, 05:06:47 AM

I tried it and it does pop the overlay off for a second when its disabling the front buffer, after that it comes back. With GD on

i always have the opposite. I have Overlays GD always on. I also have raw submenu GD on. It starts recording showing a cropped frame, proper framing. After one or two seconds , it pops out to full screen display, wrong framing.

If I turn off the GD on the Overlay menu, then shows proper framing in the full screen area and stays that way. So, are we suppose to that Overlay GD off? Id so, then why is there two menus items for GD?

1% · « **Reply #2274 on:** January 21, 2014, 05:19:55 AM »

GD off in raw_rec/mlv_rec turns off GD only while recording. The menu item in the ML menu turns it off globally and until you turn it back on.

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Author Topic: Tragic Lantern for EOS M (Read 243751 times)