Tragic Lantern for EOS M

[markr041]

I'm using the GUI version, which looks like this.  I started using it because I had that problem in RAWanizer (half-size TIFFs).  My guess is there is a way to tell RAWanizer to make a full-size TIFF through DCraw "Use Cusotm DNG to TIFF".  One of us needs to go figure those settings out

That's what mine looks like too (not surprisingly), and the 'HQ Interpolation' hints at the lossy compression. I do not see the DCraw on my computer, or any configuration other than the basic one. It is a big pain using Lightroom to simply make the conversion from .dng's to Tiff's, so it would be nice if this RAWDrop program would not assume what we want and allow us to choose.

[gary2013]

 

[markr041]

I have been creating a new folder for each Raw file. Then PDR on each camera Raw file. Then raw2dng. Then Photoshop CC, open the first file of the sequence and all of them load. Select All files and do a quick grade. Then Save All files to Tiff. Then import the Tiff sequence into Premiere Pro CC to edit. Add Neat Video to clear up all the noise from the Raw sensor. Change the scale to 166% on height. Sheesh. Can someone make one utility that does that all in one step to the camera Raw files and even batch a group of camera Raw's? And the highest full quality Tiffs.

Gary

My workflow is the same, except instead of Photoshop CC I use Lightroom 5 and instead of Premier Pro CC I use Vegas Pro and I do not need to stretch, since I shoot crop mode 720p. The steps that are most cumbersome are the placing of RAWs in folders (21 clips = 21 folders) and the conversion from dng to tiff in Lightroom for me.

[gary2013]

 

[maxotics]

@Gary2013

I think we're stuck with the Pinkdot remover for a bit.  At least we can run that first and be done with it. 

The other stuff I can write one script for.  I need the optimum settings for

1. RAW2DNG (assume params not necessary?)
2. DCRAW (or some other command line that will spit out TIFFs

I can set flags to copy/delete files best for our workflow.  My only problem with RAWanizer is the TIFFs have been half-size (height) for me.

Here's a script I started working on for Cineform creation, to give you an idea of what kind of scripts I'd write.  Once set up, you put it on the folder with your source and it will create a target directory with everything ready for editing.

I also feel ffmpeg can be used to create a lossless video clip from TIFFs, saving another step in the NLE. 

Code: [Select]


' ****************** CONFIG ME *******************************
ThisFolder = left(WScript.ScriptFullName,(Len(WScript.ScriptFullName))-(len(WScript.ScriptName)))

' AFTER SETTING PARAMs
' 1. Run this script (it generates ConvertRAW.bat)
' 2. Then run ConvertRAW.bat

' *** PARAMETERS REFERENCE ***
'-422- Encode to YUV 4:2:2 (default RAW.)
'-444- Encode to RGB 4:4:4 (default RAW.)
'-c  - use Cineon curve (black 95, white 685)
'-cbX- use Cineon curve with 'X' black point (default 95.)
'-cwX- use Cineon curve with 'X' white point (default 685.)
'-dX - use debayer type 1-softest thru 4-sharpest (default auto)
'-fX - the framerate override for AVI|MOV media.
'-gX - use gamma curve
'-iX - in point, start processing on frame X (default 0, disables audio.)
'-lX - use log curve of power X (GoPro Protune.)
'-oX - out point, e.g. -o10 would precess 0 thru 9 (default infinite.)
'-qX - the encoding quality for AVI|MOV (default 4, range 1-5.)
'-sX - skip every 'x' frames (default 0).
'-(x1,y1,x2,y2)  - window source Top Left (x,y) to Bottom Right (x2,y2)
 
Dim Prefix_RAW2GPFC, Suffix_RAW2GPFC
FolderForOutput = "Cineform422\"

Prefix_RAW2GPFC = "raw2gpcf "

Suffix_RAW2GPFC = " -dX 4 -qX 5 "
' Write folder for output to FFMPEG command
Suffix_RAW2GPFC = Suffix_RAW2GPFC & ThisFolder & FolderForOutput
NumberOfFilesToProcess = 1000 ' make, say 3, for testing.

UseExtension = ".AVI"
'*************************************************************
ReDim xFiles(0)

GetFiles(ThisFolder)
x = WriteBATFile(ThisFolder, ThisFolder & "\" & FolderForOutput)

'*********************************
' WriteBATFiles
'*********************************
Function WriteBATFile(argDir, argOuputDirectory)
Set WshShell = CreateObject("WScript.Shell")
Set objFso = CreateObject("Scripting.FileSystemObject")
Set objFile = objFso.CreateTextFile(argDir & "/ConvertRAW.bat")

' Create output directory if doesn't exist
If Not objFSO.FolderExists(argOuputDirectory) Then
   objFSO.CreateFolder(argOuputDirectory)
  End If


for i = 1 to ubound(xFiles)
objFile.WriteLine xFiles(i)
Next

objFile.Close

End Function

'*********************************
' GetFiles
'*********************************
Function GetFiles(argDir)
Dim fso, folder, files, NewsFile,sFolder
Set fso = CreateObject("Scripting.FileSystemObject")
Set folder = fso.GetFolder(argDir) 
Set files = folder.Files   
vCounter = 1
For each folderIdx In files
if right(ucase(folderIdx.Name),4) = ".RAW" Then
Redim Preserve xFiles(Ubound(xFiles)+1)
xFiles(Ubound(xFiles)) = Prefix_RAW2GPFC & argDir & "" & folderIdx.Name & Suffix_RAW2GPFC & replace(folderIdx.Name,".RAW",UseExtension)
vCounter = vCounter + 1

' For resting, only run a few
if vCounter > NumberOfFilesToProcess then
exit function
end if

' *** Write file name, testing
'NewFile.WriteLine(folderIdx.Name)
End if
Next
End Function





[gary2013]

 

[gary2013]

 

[mixer2]

@maxotics and Gary2013:

the pdr has a cli you can use to automatically remove dots in your script.

[atomas72]

@ atomas72:  Best is to use the link #1110 on side 45 - Rootwang compiled all you need and it worked for me.

Thanks for the answer!!
I now have the black screen with green text, how to enable ML? If I restart camera I have normal program... And if I restart procedure I have the green text again...

[mixer2]

sure that ml isn't active? try tapping with two fingers on the screen.

[atomas72]

sure that ml isn't active? try tapping with two fingers on the screen.

I tryed, nothing happens. Each time I see only success screen.

[funkysound]

I tryed, nothing happens. Each time I see only success screen.

That´s strange. No idea what went wrong with your installation. For me it worked totaly normal and still does.

[gary2013]

 

[tetsu]

Hi, maybe this is not the right place to ask so I´m sorry about it but I wanted to ask, since the EOS M is a mirrorless camera with an electronic shutter and previous project like CHDK enabled compact canon cameras to shoot at 1/20000 speeds, its possible to overcome the 1/4000 limitation of the EOS M with magic lantern?

Thanks!

[1%]

Not for photo... it has a normal shutter. Shutter syncing didn't work for some reason either but does on 6D.. so probably something to do with the funny timings. I think extra high shutters did work but that implementation went away and changed to sync for lights, screens, etc.

[melihozbek]

Hi,

I don't know if it is by design, but when I use "FPS Override" for very low fps like 0.5 fps , the shutter speed isn't affected and couldn go below 1/30 (like 1/10, 1/5 etc).. On the other hand, on 5D Mk II, it is the opposite, shutter speed is linked to the fps, and when I choose 0.5 fps, I can't choose shutter speed..

The question is, how can I go below 1/30 when i choose (really) low FPS from "FPS Override" on EOS M?

Thank you

Melih

[1%]

Under low light you can. This area probably needs some help though. High jello can do the lower fps too.

[melihozbek]

No luck, it doesn't go below 1/30 (by the way I am not talking about the RAW movie, it is h264.. )

thanks

Melih

[feureau]

No luck, it doesn't go below 1/30 (by the way I am not talking about the RAW movie, it is h264.. )

thanks

Melih

It goes down to, IIRC 0.05 FPS. You have to switch it to low light mode. Look carefully within the fps override menu before you post again.

[1%]

BTW, shutter is what was causing all of those lines and dead pixels at fps like 1, .5, etc... so going back to that may cause the ugly defects to return and certainly don't want that... the low light with these problems was worthless.

[maxotics]

Hello Everyone,

Couldn't keep the camera still, shooing in crop mode with the 22m.  Also, want wide angle.  So I bought a Sigma 10-22mm.  I shot 1280x720 in crop mode at 24 fps.  I'm still having trouble keeping the camera steady.   And focusing!  You can see a clip in these test videos where I'm shopping for reading glasses.  I bought a pair at 3.25 magnification and they work well.  Hope to get to some tripod, people shots this weekend.  Haven't seen a touch of moire yet!

Have been spending oodles of time trying to find an ffmpeg output that has the same quality of TIFFs.  So far, can't do it.  The lossless setting for h264, gp 0, creates videos that don't play in Windows (or open in Vegas Studio).  So I've been using gp 1.  @Makr041 is right, of course, that creating a clip in Vegas Studio is very easy. 

My take, so far, is that the really good CODECs are proprietary (like Cineform 444).  The public ones, HUFFYUV and Lagarith, are no longer in development.  If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

I noticed that the TIFFs that were generated from RAWanizer seemed to have a lot of red dots.  Long story short, when I found dcraw version 9.17 (link and photos in the RAWanizer thread) it seemed to render better TIFFs.

Here are the setting I'm using, currently, in RAWanizer

dcraw: -w -6 -T

video (ffmpeg):

-threads 8 -i "{InputVideoName}" -vcodec libx264 -pix_fmt  yuv420p -qp 1 -r {InputVideoFps} {Parameters}  "{OutputVideoName}.mp4"

Here some video footage from today.  I still try to shoot some in-camera H.264 comparisons.  But they're never close to what I'm now getting, even going straight from RAW to gp 1 H.264.  I'm going to stop doing those soon.

[CinB13]

@maxotic so, in your opinion what's better - the RAW or the H.264?  I realize that RAW is the real deal then the Video side.  I tried like you and many others, it's a great experience, but I don't see any difference in the RAW.  You're right, even if I tried the PDR and the Rawanizer, I still get other dots on sides of the clips.  So, DCRaw is the better choice in doing RAW/Tiffs -- I'm quite new to all things RAW...  Just like to hear other people's opinions.

[mixer2]

@CinB13:
can you show me an example of the remaining dots?

@maxotics:
why have you bought the simga 10-20mm instead of the canon ef-m 11-22mm? imho it would be much better choice for eos m, especially for shooting video.
1. much smaller
2. less distortion
3. IS (!!!)

[atomas72]

funky,
when you have the black screen with green text saying successful, pull your battery out and then put it back in the camera.Now press the On button and it will start as normal. now tap the screen with two fingertips and the ML menus should show up.

gary

Thanks!! It's ok. tapping the screen with two fingers was the solution.

[maxotics]

@Mixer2 Yes, I want the 10-22mm for all those reasons.   If I was rich I would have bought one.  Maybe even flown to Japan to get it I found the 10-22mm Sigma on CL for $300 and I can easily use it with my 50D.  I also have a friend who wants a wide-angle at some point, so I can use it and pass it on to them with no loss of money.  Eventually  hope to get the one you mentioned.

@CinB13.  For almost all casual video RAW is not worth the effort.  The video that comes out of these cameras is pretty amazing.  I shot a small audition the other day, used the EOS-M's native video.  Very easy, good quality.  If I had tried RAW I would have needed extra cards, batteries, external audio, and hours of post production.  So, as you ask, why RAW?

Photography is my hobby.  I shoot mostly family and friends.  I like a clean look.  I especially like a natural, 3-dimensional look.  You can see my photos at flicr.com/maxotics, if you wanted an idea.  Mostly, I used Sigma DP cameras.  I've always loved film too, but video cameras that shoot video that looks like film, to me, or has the same quality as my still cameras, costs in the tens of thousands of dollars.  So I shoot camera video like everyone else.  What I would like is a video option, where I can shoot 10-30 seconds of video, that I could put with my stills, maybe in photo/video collages.  I started seeing RAW on Vimeo and knew it was possible.  I then bought Andrew Reid's "50D RAW Shooter's Guide" and tried it on a 50D I picked up.  I LOVED the results.  Now I'm trying with an EOS-M so I can have a camera that is very portable and can shoot RAW.  I should probably wait for the Black Magic Pocket, but, again, it's a hobby, and one doesn't do a hobby to wait and act rationally

The reason you're not seeing the potential beauty of RAW is you're not shooting things you care about.  If you took some footage of someone you love with normal video, and then shot RAW (or had someone shoot it) you would notice that RAW, makes the skin look natural (not yellow and red).  The light would look as you saw it, not artificially bright.  There would be a three-dimensional quality to the image.  There would be no motion artifacts, little colored blocks dispersed thrugh the video, that everyone has gotten used to, like ugly telephone poles, but which, when removed, open up a more pleasurable viewing experience.

RAW is only better if you want certain niche things it can do.  I love all kinds of cameras.  I plan to shoot both RAW and in-camera video for a long, long time.  Knowing I can get near perfect video, with little money (though lots of time) is just something I want.

Finally, most of the videos I post, do not show RAW in all its glory.  They show certain technical differences.  In fact, some have complained about how unappealing these videos look.  They only mean something to others who have similar technical curiosity about what happens when one does this or that.   Right now, it's about ironing out technical issues for me.  My goal is beautiful video, though.