Heading out tonight to shoot the sunset and milky way

Started by nchant, October 21, 2013, 05:01:43 AM

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nchant

As the title says, I'm heading out tonight to try my first real time-lapse on my 6D, yay!

I have used ML on my 600D for a year or so now, but have just a few questions though with the latest build.

As a start, I will be shooting a seascape with settings like this for the sunset:

1/400, ƒ4.5 and 100 ISO.

Now, when it comes to night time (will be having Bulb ramping on with the intervalometer), is there any way to set it so the last remaining 100 or so shots are on these settings:

25seconds, ƒ4.5 and 5000 ISO?

Is it just a matter of setting the Auto ISO maximum to 5000?
is there a way to start on ƒ16, and have the camera slowly go down to ƒ4.5 when the sunlight has completely gone? - not so concerned if I can't do this though.

Cheers :)

RenatoPhoto

Quote from: nchant on October 21, 2013, 05:01:43 AM
Is it just a matter of setting the Auto ISO maximum to 5000?
yes

Quote from: nchant on October 21, 2013, 05:01:43 AM
is there a way to start on ƒ16, and have the camera slowly go down to ƒ4.5 when the sunlight has completely gone? - not so concerned if I can't do this though.

Yes, use the Advanced Intervalometer Ramping module:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8431.0
http://www.pululahuahostal.com  |  EF 300 f/4, EF 100-400 L, EF 180 L, EF-S 10-22, Samyang 14mm, Sigma 28mm EX DG, Sigma 8mm 1:3.5 EX DG, EF 50mm 1:1.8 II, EF 1.4X II, Kenko C-AF 2X


nchant

:( didn't realize I had to set the minimum shutter speed on the AETTR module :( wondered why it wouldn't go longer than 1/15 second and shooting 6400iso haha.

Going smoothly now, hope I didn't botch it.

Here's one of the exposures

Murine au sunset by Mikey Mack, on Flickr

nchant

Another frame from the time lapse :)


Muriwai Milky Way by Mikey Mack, on Flickr

Now to learn how to use these sideline files and work out how to make this time lapse work...

dmilligan

Quote from: nchant on October 21, 2013, 05:01:43 AM
25seconds, ƒ4.5 and 5000 ISO?

There's no reason to use ISO 5000. It's digital, exactly the same as adjusting the exposure in post with the exposure slider. You only increase the chance of clipping, without gaining anything in terms of SNR.

I have all the "Expanded ISO" junk turned off in my camera and have the max ISO as 1600, which is the last "true" analog ISO for the 60D.

All non-analog ISOs are a marketing gimmic by Canon that only have a potential to degrade your images and also just makes it harder to set the ISO b/c you have to scroll through so much nonsense.

http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/ISO

nchant

Mines not expanded at all, as I don't see any use at 52,000 or 104,000 ISO ;)

I get fantastic results from 5,000 up to 20,000 ISO. The 6D is a beast in those areas.

dmilligan

Yes, it is "expanded" by that I mean digital, non-analog.

When you use ISO 5000 this is what happens: the camera actually uses ISO 3200 (or perhaps 6400 if that is infact truly analog on the 6D, but I doubt it), and then simply modifies the image DIGITALLY after it is captured. This is EXACTLY the same as doing it in post, except in post you have much more control and don't risk accidentally clipping.

Sure it looks good, but that is just b/c ISO3200 is good enough on your camera that it can handle being boosted a little digitally. In terms of the information that is actually there you gain nothing.

nchant

Somehow I don't think I would have captured this at ISO 3200:


Muriwai Panorama by Mikey Mack, on Flickr

I get what your saying and you sound like you know what your talking about :) I might just do some test shots and see how they turn out by lifting the exposure on a 1600 or 3200 ISO shot in post.

BTW these shots were at 12,800 ISO

dmilligan

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8800.msg82637#msg82637

So it looks like ISO6400 is the last analog ISO on you're camera. My point about ISO 5000 still stands, it's simply digitally reduced from 6400, which means if you were going to clip at 6400, you're going to clip at 5000, you're just less likely to notice (which is bad, you want to know if you're clipping!). Reducing in post is exactly the same. It's basically just ETTRing for you a little bit.

Quote from: nchant on October 21, 2013, 10:24:14 PM
Somehow I don't think I would have captured this at ISO 3200
I took this at ISO 800:


RenatoPhoto

Quote from: nchant on October 21, 2013, 10:24:14 PM
Muriwai Panorama
Beautiful!  I see Magellanic Clouds!  When did you take this beautiful picture?
http://www.pululahuahostal.com  |  EF 300 f/4, EF 100-400 L, EF 180 L, EF-S 10-22, Samyang 14mm, Sigma 28mm EX DG, Sigma 8mm 1:3.5 EX DG, EF 50mm 1:1.8 II, EF 1.4X II, Kenko C-AF 2X

chris_overseas

EOS R5 1.1.0 | Canon 16-35mm f4.0L | Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2 | Canon 70-200mm f2.8L IS II | Canon 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L II | Canon 800mm f5.6L | Canon 100mm f2.8L macro | Sigma 14mm f/1.8 DG HSM Art | Yongnuo YN600EX-RT II

nchant

Quote from: RenatoPhoto on October 22, 2013, 01:41:03 AM
Beautiful!  I see Magellanic Clouds!  When did you take this beautiful picture?

Thank you! That was a shot from last night, after the time-lapse had finished. 10 shot vertical panorama :)

Nice shot dmilligan! I do get great results at 1600ISO as well, here's a test shot I done a while ago:

Milky Way edits by Mikey Mack, on Flickr

The 5000 ISO was just a reference point for the question about setting the max ISO, I ended up doing 6400 but didn't get the results I wanted, so upped it to 12,800. I go higher so I can have a shorter exposure time, I find even at 16mm I get trailing at 30 seconds, so I shoot around 20 seconds.