Author Topic: [1 ALREADY DONE / 2 LOL] NIGHT VISION/IR  (Read 5289 times)

wbp266

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[1 ALREADY DONE / 2 LOL] NIGHT VISION/IR
« on: October 20, 2013, 07:36:51 PM »
Hi, I just started doing a ghost hunting show for a local access tv station and have been using cameras with night vision mode as the A Cam and DSLRs as the B camera when the lights are on, and was wondering if there's any chance if ML can modify the Canon DSLRs to also be able to shoot in night vision/IR mode?

RenatoPhoto

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Re: NIGHT VISION/IR
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2013, 09:27:53 PM »
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wolf

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Re: NIGHT VISION/IR
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2013, 11:38:35 PM »
If there were ghosts to hunt, watch or film, ML would have such a feature I guess. ;-)

g3gg0

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Re: NIGHT VISION/IR
« Reply #3 on: October 21, 2013, 12:12:45 AM »
LOL and LOL.
SCNR.
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a1ex

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Re: NIGHT VISION/IR
« Reply #4 on: October 21, 2013, 08:00:17 AM »
If there were ghosts to hunt, watch or film, ML would have such a feature I guess. ;-)

On-topic: you can try shooting at half FPS (say 12) and then interpolate to 24, or you can try Frame Merger: http://bit.ly/frame-merger (in both cases you'll get a little less noise for night shots, probably 1 stop or so).

If you use H.264, take a look at ML digital ISO.

halbmoki

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Re: [1 ALREADY DONE / 2 LOL] NIGHT VISION/IR
« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2013, 03:22:52 PM »
IR-video is possible with FPS override and/or display gain. So far, I've only used it for timelapse (f/5,6 320 ISO and 1FPS in normal daylight with a 50D and 720nm filter), but the same exposure translates to roughly f/2, 1000 ISO and 30FPS, so regular speed IR-video is possible. Pushing the ISO above 25600 may be necessary for indoor-situations, even with relatively good lighting. A compact camera or camcorder with a built-in night mode will probably give you less noise.
For filming in darkness (to the human eye, anyway), you'll still need a strong IR light source, though. I've seen something like it with several strong video lights, each with an IR filter in front of it.

A true "IR-mode" is not possible without physically replacing the IR-cut filter with a piece of clear glass. The best way to do it with an out-of-the-box DSLR is to get a 60Da which has slightly better IR-sensitivity (around 690nm maximum, I think)