7D Raw Thread

[1%]

I have to sign them all.. right now fir has: video hacks, vignetting (is it working?) and that's about it.

[arrinkiiii]

Why not try ETTR?

The one chosen by ETTR should be optimal (in the sense of constrained optimization - you choose the slowest shutter speed, the lowest SNR you are OK with, and how many highlights you are OK with throwing away). If you find a situation where ETTR result is not optimal, report a bug and show what setting was chosen by ETTR, what you think it's best for your situation, and a side-by-side comparison that shows the difference.

The last time that i try out ETTR with video the shutter speed just can't stay in 1/48... this is already fix?

So, for what i understand using 100, 200, 400, 600 is the best? Maybe if we go really to the root of ISO even 100 or 200 is not the best but for what we got in canon and in  ML menu this the best, 100, 200, 400?

I think I will hold off on the raw right now..I am not getting anything close to what you guys are shooting....

Why? What is the problem?

[a1ex]

If it can't get good exposure with 1/48, it won't use it. Should be obvious what you should do in this case

[tonybeccar]

Yep, there are 7D nightlies:

http://ml.bot-fly.com/

And this nightly builds have the work you've been doing incorporated? Are they built automatically every day?

[arrinkiiii]

If it can't get good exposure with 1/48, it won't use it. Should be obvious what you should do in this case

lol ...of course. The question is the best iso to use in raw. ETTR just mess with shutter speed. I keep using the 100, 200 and so on... 

I see in some photos using red cameras almost with iso 800, even if is sun/bright  ...i think should be their native iso and maybe they prefer to use filters or close the iris.

[chroma]

I see in some photos using red cameras almost with iso 800, even if is sun/bright  ...i think should be their native iso and maybe they prefer to use filters or close the iris.

As a previous RED owner, the Original "M" sensor was Native 320 ISO.  The "MX" Sensor is Native 800 ISO. 

RED cameras do not like you to change ISO below the Native rating.  I can attest that the image starts getting crunched and less "filmic."  I hate having to put 13 stops of ND and a Hot Mirror (required for all RED shots) out there just to take a daylight shot at f4 (no joke!).  A serious flaw in the camera's design IMHO.

My experience so far with the 7D in RAW, the basic quality of the image doesn't seem to get wrecked if you vary the ISO up or down (within reason, of course).  I've done critical tests between 100 ISO and 3200 ISO and find staying within 100 ISO to 320 ISO is great.

[1%]

And this nightly builds have the work you've been doing incorporated? Are they built automatically every day?

Yep, they EOSM guys took care of nightlies. They should add 6D up there too to round out the trifecta.

[Jared]

Hi guys I'm testing the last build 's version (10/09/2013) and  I'm having problem to change the exposure speed.
It is by defect  in  1/50. How can I change that?
I really apreciated your help

[britom]

Turn off shutter lock in movie tweaks... I published the build with my config files, my bad. It's fixed now.

[Pileot]

My experience so far with the 7D in RAW, the basic quality of the image doesn't seem to get wrecked if you vary the ISO up or down (within reason, of course).  I've done critical tests between 100 ISO and 3200 ISO and find staying within 100 ISO to 320 ISO is great.

I have done quite a few shots of events (weddings, etc) up to 3200 ISO and really the noise isn't bad enough to be unusable. 1600ISO in a dark room is better than getting a blurry shot / missing the shot. You can always clean it up a bit in post if you shoot raw.

[Jared]

Turn off shutter lock in movie tweaks... I published the build with my config files, my bad. It's fixed now.

Thanks @britom I really apriciated you all for your help

[1%]

If you look at dual ISO then 3200 is the last real ISO. 1600 on 50D and 6400 on 6D... 5DIII might have a real 128K and a real 256 for lv?

[Ozgur]

deleted..

[vyskocil]

From time to time the CF card where I installed Magic Lantern is "trashed", all seems to work but when I power cycle the 7D, it don't boot ML anymore, the camera says that the card is not formatted (the Mac also) then I must format it, re-install the boot and ML.
This seems to happen when it happens just after I had installed a new version of ML (compiled from Tragic Lantern repos) and tried some modules but  mainly raw_rec.

[arrinkiiii]

As a previous RED owner, the Original "M" sensor was Native 320 ISO.  The "MX" Sensor is Native 800 ISO. 

RED cameras do not like you to change ISO below the Native rating.  I can attest that the image starts getting crunched and less "filmic."  I hate having to put 13 stops of ND and a Hot Mirror (required for all RED shots) out there just to take a daylight shot at f4 (no joke!).  A serious flaw in the camera's design IMHO.

My experience so far with the 7D in RAW, the basic quality of the image doesn't seem to get wrecked if you vary the ISO up or down (within reason, of course).  I've done critical tests between 100 ISO and 3200 ISO and find staying within 100 ISO to 320 ISO is great.

Hi chroma,

Thanks for the info, always good. Indeed, using 13 stops of ND it's hell... Yes, going keep using 100, 200 and so on for the iso's... i think also that is the best 

[pit3k]

As a previous RED owner, the Original "M" sensor was Native 320 ISO.  The "MX" Sensor is Native 800 ISO. 

RED cameras do not like you to change ISO below the Native rating.  I can attest that the image starts getting crunched and less "filmic."  I hate having to put 13 stops of ND and a Hot Mirror (required for all RED shots) out there just to take a daylight shot at f4 (no joke!).  A serious flaw in the camera's design IMHO.

My experience so far with the 7D in RAW, the basic quality of the image doesn't seem to get wrecked if you vary the ISO up or down (within reason, of course).  I've done critical tests between 100 ISO and 3200 ISO and find staying within 100 ISO to 320 ISO is great.

Well RED MX, and all native 800 iso (like alexa, bmcc, c300) sensors tend to lose DR in highlights when changing iso to lower than 800 and in shadows in higher than 800.
Then you get not so nice rolloff in highlights and really messy noise in shadows. So in bright daylight you have to use heavy IR ND's.
All filmmakers want high native iso, because with lower iso rated sensors you need lots of lights on set to get good base exposure and then even more for lighting the actors to get contrast and separation from the background.

Now indoors with 800 iso (or ASA I should say) you can use more natural lighting without introducing lots of noise to the image, and even "light" actors faces with bounce boards etc.
So once again,  higher iso rated sensor = more money saved for producers, and low budget filmmakers.
7d sensor is 100-200 native so outdoors its all great, but indoors it can get messy. Even film stocks got to the point when you use 200 for outdoors and 500 for indoors.

[1%]

This seems to happen when it happens just after I had installed a new version of ML

Sounds like you're not updating the sym file.

[man_bites_dog]

Hi All

Long time lurker over the last couple of years. Thanks to all the devs for making this incredible hack - it truly is remarkable!

Don't know if this has been discussed or even possible, (and I have read a LOT of posts and didn't see anything), but are there any plans on creating a module that could write either ProRes or DNXHD to the CF card? I don't mind not having RAW controls and would love the option of having a 10-bit 4:2:2 Prores I could work with. Even maybe MJPEG (like the 1DC) would be good for me.

Cheers

[m1ke]

Sounds like you're not updating the sym file.

Yes, same thing was happening to me until I figured that out, d'oh!

[mrnv45]

i downloaded the 10-9-13 update. do i ned to just drag and drop those files in the .zip to my card?

am i missing something with system files?

[Deem]

Some frames frome build 29.9.

1) http://photo.uloziste.com/?fotka=110e8c98d58a7b25.jpg&d=qa17be29a36c776d&size=0
2) http://photo.uloziste.com/?fotka=ad028010601b2366.jpg&d=q8aab4875cecca49&size=0
3) http://photo.uloziste.com/?fotka=806b5cdc536c334e.jpg&d=q1bc3dd8455e3620&size=0
4) http://photo.uloziste.com/?fotka=f78b98cc8f3e0b52.jpg&d=q9296ef47c3dcc1c&size=0
5) http://photo.uloziste.com/?fotka=fde2a9da8c471762.jpg&d=q04e12bd2c99e37a&size=0
6) http://photo.uloziste.com/?fotka=47a385ca39a1ab6b.jpg&d=q96b393146b2b17a&size=0

[unwesen]

Hi all

Another long time lurker wants to say thanks to all the devs for making this incredible hack!
Raw video is just amazing...

Nevertheless i seem to have found a problem - which bugs me quite a bit: In video mode (regardless of being h.264 or raw) using fps override to set a slower frame rate like say 10 fps i just can't
set the shutter speed to anything slower than 1/31 though in the advanced part of the fps override menu "shutter range" is  said to be "1/10... 1/17". ("optimize for" is set to "low light")
Is this a bug or do i miss something? I'm using the latest build (9/10/2013) but last few versions had the same problem i guess.
I need the ability to shoot at around 10 fps at a approx. 360 degrees shutter angel for a special effects scene of a project i'm currently working on.

Cheers

[LEVISDAVIS]

Does the 7D have a hi-jello shutter option? If it does, you'll be able to access shutter values that normally wouldn't be offered in Exact FPS and/or Low Jello... I own a couple 50Ds and have had similar issues.

[chroma]

Well RED MX, and all native 800 iso (like alexa, bmcc, c300) sensors tend to lose DR in highlights when changing iso to lower than 800 and in shadows in higher than 800.
Then you get not so nice rolloff in highlights and really messy noise in shadows. So in bright daylight you have to use heavy IR ND's.
All filmmakers want high native iso, because with lower iso rated sensors you need lots of lights on set to get good base exposure and then even more for lighting the actors to get contrast and separation from the background.

Now indoors with 800 iso (or ASA I should say) you can use more natural lighting without introducing lots of noise to the image, and even "light" actors faces with bounce boards etc.
So once again,  higher iso rated sensor = more money saved for producers, and low budget filmmakers.
7d sensor is 100-200 native so outdoors its all great, but indoors it can get messy. Even film stocks got to the point when you use 200 for outdoors and 500 for indoors.

All your points are valid.  But having spent 20+ years shooting 35mm and 65mm outdoors, I always liked to use whatever the current 50 ISO Daylight stock was available from Kodak (be it EXR, Vision I, II, etc.).  Typically it was the very best emulsion they made (i.e. finest grain, widest latitiude).  I also found it surprisingly forgiving in the shadows and good when pushed.   I don't know about using 200 ISO film out in the desert without again using a bazillion stops of ND with an 85 filter.

However, I would like to make one point without sounding argumentative, using a slower sensor in a 7D ML RAW camera (that I own) and having a slightly larger lighting package is way cheaper than purchasing or renting a RED or ALEXA or Panavision Genesis and using less lights.  Is that a fair conclusion?

Back to 7D ML RAW development, is there any word (or advisable procedure) for using an external HDMI monitor when shooting RAW?

[unwesen]

Does the 7D have a hi-jello shutter option? If it does, you'll be able to access shutter values that normally wouldn't be offered in Exact FPS and/or Low Jello... I own a couple 50Ds and have had similar issues.

yes, it does have a hi-jello option. but as i understand it this would be used to enable shorter shutter values not longer ones.