Canon 700D / T5i

Started by nanomad, June 01, 2013, 12:55:41 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

ThankMeLater

how do you guys handle the formatting issue ?

Is formatting the card on computer as good as on camera ? So far I allways formatted the card on camera, delted magic lantern and put it back on afterwards.
Or if i delete every single video on camera, is it as good as formatting ? :D

by the way i had a video shot yesterday and filmed everything with 3.0 x bitrate.. when I had about 11 GB of my 32 GB card full I could not record anymore.
Every take stoped ( video got automaticelly stoped error screen ). After formatting the card I could film everything with 3.0 x bitrate again untill I reached that 11 GB again .

I used 3x bitrate and I couldnt record anymore at 1/3 used memory. Is this normal ? seems like some buffer is fully used or something like that.

PiNgOa

Hello there !

I have a little video project involving macro recording of insects. As I am totally new to video recording on a DSLR, I have a bunch of questions that some of you may be able to answer, hopefully...

1) As we can't record a RAW video @ 1080p on the 700D, will I get the best picture quality by recording in Canon's MOV if I want my final project to be exported at 1080p ? Or should I stick to RAW even at a lower resolution and with all the heavy post-processing workflow (Pink Dots Removal, image correction on Camera RAW, creation of the video on VirtualDub @ 24fps) ?

2) If I stick to Canon's MOV, does the x3.0 bitrate really help or is it just placebo ?

3) I would like to use the 180° shutter rule but the only solution I found was to set the camera on Manual mode, set the shutter to 1/50 and set aperture and ISOs consequently, the problem is that I want to record with an exposure conpensation of -2/3 IL, 'cause I found the image too bright with no exposure compensation. Why isn't the TV mode enabled ? I could set the shutter @ 1/50, the exposure compensation @ -2/3 and let the camera set both aperture and ISOs...

4) Specifically for Macro recording, what aperture would you use ? My macro lens is a Sigma 150mm f2.8...

5) What are the best settings to use in the Picture Styles ? Now i use a custom profile set at a Neutral base, Sharpness @ 3, Contrast and Saturation @ -2 and as I said, an exposure compensation set @ -2/3... Are these settings allright to you ?

Thanks in advance guys :)

TAB

Quote from: ThankMeLater on March 01, 2014, 02:01:58 PM
how do you guys handle the formatting issue ?

Is formatting the card on computer as good as on camera ? So far I allways formatted the card on camera, delted magic lantern and put it back on afterwards.

Formatting on a computer is really just deleting files/folders from the card individually, while formatting in the camera is wiping everything and resetting the DCIM/MISC folders and stuff like that. Formatting on the camera is the safest way to make sure the filing system is configured right for the camera to save photos/videos properly.

I would say that the best way to do it is to manually remove ML from the card on a computer, and then reformat it in camera as usual.

QuoteOr if i delete every single video on camera, is it as good as formatting ? :D

I would recommend against this. I've always avoided deleting files individually, because over time it can screw with the negative space on the card and cause problems with the card's filing system. The best way to do it is to let the camera handle it and wipe/reset everything at the same time. Deleting every single video individually is completely different from reformatting, and could certainly cause problems.

Walter Schulz

Quote from: TAB on March 03, 2014, 10:46:56 PMFormatting on a computer is really just deleting files/folders from the card individually,

That's not correct. Not at all.
Quick formating a card containing a FAT32 file system will only delete the file allocation table. You can test this by yourself and any recovery tool.

ThankMeLater

Quote from: TAB on March 03, 2014, 10:46:56 PM
Formatting on a computer is really just deleting files/folders from the card individually, while formatting in the camera is wiping everything and resetting the DCIM/MISC folders and stuff like that. Formatting on the camera is the safest way to make sure the filing system is configured right for the camera to save photos/videos properly.

I would say that the best way to do it is to manually remove ML from the card on a computer, and then reformat it in camera as usual.

I would recommend against this. I've always avoided deleting files individually, because over time it can screw with the negative space on the card and cause problems with the card's filing system. The best way to do it is to let the camera handle it and wipe/reset everything at the same time. Deleting every single video individually is completely different from reformatting, and could certainly cause problems.

Why removing magic lantern on the computer ?
Simply press Q (delete ML) when formatting the card on cam and everything is fine, isnt it ?

BASSPRO

1) As we can't record a RAW video @ 1080p on the 700D, will I get the best picture quality by recording in Canon's MOV if I want my final project to be exported at 1080p ? Or should I stick to RAW even at a lower resolution and with all the heavy post-processing workflow (Pink Dots Removal, image correction on Camera RAW, creation of the video on VirtualDub @ 24fps) ?

ANS: On my T5i (700D) I raw works perfectly at 1280x720. However, as you correctly state the workflow can be quite time consuming especially if you have time restraints for your projects. Personally, I seldom shoot raw because of time restraints. That being said I get great results from the standard codec shooting with bit-rates between x1.4 - 1.6.

2) If I stick to Canon's MOV, does the x3.0 bit-rate really help or is it just placebo ?

ANS: Using a higher bit-rate will give you a slight improvement in dynamic range which will help in post, I you have poorly lit footage to work with. You won't have the headroom you get with RAW but every bit helps when grading / correcting. You can experiment with a bit-rate of x3.0 but you could pick up problems with sound. As I mentioned previously x1.4 - 1.6 is a good starting point. Remember, if you light your scene properly you can get results comparable to RAW, so take time with your lighting.

3) I would like to use the 180° shutter rule but the only solution I found was to set the camera on Manual mode, set the shutter to 1/50 and set aperture and ISOs consequently, the problem is that I want to record with an exposure conpensation of -2/3 IL, 'cause I found the image too bright with no exposure compensation. Why isn't the TV mode enabled ? I could set the shutter @ 1/50, the exposure compensation @ -2/3 and let the camera set both aperture and ISOs...

ANS: Outdoors I shoot predominantly with these settings:-  ISO 100, Shutter 1/50 (180 deg) and an f/stop that looks good, usually between f/4-f/8. If your images are over exposed, fit an ND filter. You can pick them up cheaply on eBay. Variable ND filters are by far the easiest and quickest to use. Also, I like to reduce my ZEBRA warning to 95% so as to ensure I don't accidentally over expose. Use your HISTOGRAM all the time when setting up your exposure for a shot.

4) Specifically for Macro recording, what aperture would you use ? My macro lens is a Sigma 150mm f2.8...
ANS: Depends on the effect you are trying to achieve. At 150mm f/2.8 you'll get great depth of field. Experiment with different f/stops until you achieve the desired effect.

5) What are the best settings to use in the Picture Styles ? Now i use a custom profile set at a Neutral base, Sharpness @ 3, Contrast and Saturation @ -2 and as I said, an exposure compensation set @ -2/3... Are these settings all right to you ?
ANS: Picture Styles present an open ended discussion, but for video here's where I recommend you start.

        1. ProLost Picture Style.
        ▪   Set Sharpness to zero—all the way to the left
   ▪   Set Contrast all the way to the left
   ▪   Set Saturation two notches to the left
You can get a full explanation of this Picture Style here: http://prolost.com/flat

        2. Tecnicolor Cinestyle
Download here: http://www.technicolor.com/en/solutions-services/cinestyle
This picture style has a good DR range but you have to grade the S-Curve of the image. You can get great results with this style if you spend a bit of time in post. Color Grading Central have a great S-Curve LUT (Look Up Table/Utility for Final Cut X) whicjh I use often when using the Technicolor picture style. You can can get more information on this LUT here... http://www.colorgradingcentral.com/lututility

        3. Flaat10
Download here: http://similaar.com/foto/flaat-picture-styles/index.html
Always a popular picture style and easy to work with.

Keep your sharpness level down as it helps to reduce ALIASING / MOIRE.


Hope this helps, and good luck.

PiNgOa

Thank you very much for these complete answers, I really appreciate, it's gonna help me a lot !

I didn't think about any external gear but the ND filter seems to be the easiest way of doing it ! Also, thank you for your e-mail ;-)

I should also invest in a good tripod, mine is a little weak now, I bought it for a bridge a few years ago, now it has to deal with a 700D with the Sigma mounted on :D

BASSPRO

Quote from: PiNgOa on March 05, 2014, 08:29:55 AM
Thank you very much for these complete answers, I really appreciate, it's gonna help me a lot !

I didn't think about any external gear but the ND filter seems to be the easiest way of doing it ! Also, thank you for your e-mail ;-)

I should also invest in a good tripod, mine is a little weak now, I bought it for a bridge a few years ago, now it has to deal with a 700D with the Sigma mounted on :D

Have a look at this tripod combo. I use one everyday and it hasn't let me down. It's lightweight and easy to carry around, not like some of the other heavyweights I have to contend with from time to time. It maybe a bit expensive but it's worth every cent.
http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-MVK502AM-Video-Telescoping-Carry/dp/B006LWHLSA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1394013670&sr=8-5&keywords=MVH502A
And if you work a lot indoors pick up a set of Wheely Bars, they will save you lots of time when re-arranging scenes. They can also be used for short dolly shots. Great fun. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=a9_sc_1?rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aravelli+wheels+bar&keywords=ravelli+wheels+bar&ie=UTF8&qid=1394014413


PiNgOa

Ouch, the price of that tripod is almost the one I paid for my 700D :D
I can't afford it, I was looking for something "not too bad" around 100$, not something that good ! I'll only use it for macro and video but as it's not my job, I don't want to invest too much :-)

BASSPRO

As far as I know all Canon HDSLR cameras had overlays within the HDMI signal that could not be removed making an external recording impossible.
In practise having a clean signal means that you can record the video feed to an external device like the Atomos Ninja ( http://www.atomos.com/ ) and get a ready to edit, quality encoded Apple ProRes 4:2:2 file. Does anyone know if there is a fix out there, as I believe Canon had a beta solution for the T4i / 650D.

A T5i/700D, Magic Lantern, clean HDMI and an Atomos Ninja, would be a great combination with fantastic end results.

Walter Schulz

Quote from: PiNgOa on March 05, 2014, 12:41:35 PM
I can't afford it, I was looking for something "not too bad" around 100$,

Most tripods designed for photographers are not able to resist torque and that's why most video tripod legs have two (or more) parallel tubes. And yes, it means it will be not that cheap as a tripod with a simpler design. But a cheap tripod not doing the job is not exactly the best way to spend your money, even with my 2 cents counting in.

Ciao
Walter

BASSPRO

Quote from: Walter Schulz on March 05, 2014, 04:03:25 PM
Most tripods designed for photographers are not able to resist torque and that's why most video tripod legs have two (or more) parallel tubes. And yes, it means it will be not that cheap as a tripod with a simpler design. But a cheap tripod not doing the job is not exactly the best way to spend your money, even with my 2 cents counting in.

Ciao
Walter

Agreed with you, 100%

PiNgOa

Even with my cheap tripod I can achieve a good stabilization in macro 'cause most of the time I keep it at its most compact configuration (for an ant in the grass, I don't really need to set it at 1,20m :D )

Walter Schulz

Try pan and tilt in video and let's talk again.

mk11174

Hey guys, I just want to let you know, I am at a stand still with anymore tweaks to 700D so I wont be able to give anymore updates since I can't test them anymore, I decided to update my firmware to 1.1.3 so I could start testing the port for you guys, I made all changes needed and compiled it, but stuck cause it wont boot, just get a blinking light as soon as I put card it, so I must have something with the boot stage wrong for now or maybe it is just that I need the proper bootflag fir from the devs, not sure about that part, but I just did not feel right having others test my guess work. Can is fine though, works without trying to load a bin file, just need to wait till Devs have free time to lead me in the right direction. But I guess if the new port was ever going to get finished, I had no choice but to update and start testing. But I just wanted to update you on the 1.1.3 progress. I am just glad I have a 550d and 600d to use ML on until it ready to go.
500D/T1i  550D/T2i  600D/T3i  700D/T5i

smyky

I shoot in raw video , video duration 2m07s and when I export it in after effect was1m27s ! why ? http://www.mediafire.com/view/17vmaaer4qn6juv/yj.JPG

mk11174

UPDATE!!! ML is loading on 113 now, no time to test, I homeschool my daughter, but thanks to 1% tipping me off on the signature, it is loading fine!  :D
500D/T1i  550D/T2i  600D/T3i  700D/T5i

godashram

Now that is AWESOME!

can finally use it again soon!
Canon T5I, EOS M2

mk11174

Quote from: godashram on March 10, 2014, 10:49:38 PM
Now that is AWESOME!

can finally use it again soon!
Yeah, it is working same as it was when I was on version 111, I am not sure if you can even test it without installing the bootflag though and I believe that is only possible with a fir file the Devs make, I think I can use it because I already had it installed before I updated to 113.

So I don't know what the next step is, alls I can say is the port is working and I have been using it the last hour and I can't tell a difference from before I updated, more testers will be useful of coarse to find any glitches?

So not sure where to go from here?

I wont push it to Repo unless I get the ok because I made that mistake to many times and got the devs a bit angry for rushing pushes.  :-[

But its a start having it working and knowing its ready when the Devs tell me what to do with it.
500D/T1i  550D/T2i  600D/T3i  700D/T5i

1%

Leave a pull request.. also start making an installer. Need one that you can run as an autoexec.bin first. That's how I got the EOSM installer going, after that the a1ex or g3ggo can sign the created fir. start with "make installer" or make in the installer/700D folder after copying/fixing/checking 650D or EOSM

godashram

Quote from: mk11174 on March 11, 2014, 12:23:20 AM
Yeah, it is working same as it was when I was on version 111, I am not sure if you can even test it without installing the bootflag though and I believe that is only possible with a fir file the Devs make, I think I can use it because I already had it installed before I updated to 113.

So I don't know what the next step is, alls I can say is the port is working and I have been using it the last hour and I can't tell a difference from before I updated, more testers will be useful of coarse to find any glitches?

So not sure where to go from here?

I wont push it to Repo unless I get the ok because I made that mistake to many times and got the devs a bit angry for rushing pushes.  :-[

But its a start having it working and knowing its ready when the Devs tell me what to do with it.

I did have in installed pre 1.1.3 as well.
Canon T5I, EOS M2

mk11174

Quote from: godashram on March 11, 2014, 02:13:20 AM
I did have in installed pre 1.1.3 as well.
Ok, let me do a double check on everything even though it is working fine so far, it will be best to just go over everything in case I missed something that might show up later on, I am sure bugs will happen because even as a 111 it was still a new port so all bugs were probably never found, but I will do a double check then I will upload a test build for you since you were an updater from 111 like me, but for now should only work with 111 updaters till a full commit is sent and the devs do what they do for the bootflag for the 113 cams.
500D/T1i  550D/T2i  600D/T3i  700D/T5i

godashram

cool, let me know how it goes.
Canon T5I, EOS M2

kimmy24

Quote from: mk11174 on March 10, 2014, 07:15:59 PM
UPDATE!!! ML is loading on 113 now, no time to test, I homeschool my daughter, but thanks to 1% tipping me off on the signature, it is loading fine!  :D

Woohoo!!! nice job mk11174!!! I hope the wait is almost over.. My 700D has been in the drybox since 1.1.3

jlahham

Quote from: Traste on October 26, 2013, 01:10:10 PM
Hi The UnKnown,

I would like to donate specifically to the development of ML for 700D, do you have any donation box? :)

All the best,
Traste

YES me too, I'd love to see this go further.