Flicker Free ETTR Timelapse: - -Beginners Guide & Basic Post Processing --

Started by RenatoPhoto, May 26, 2013, 01:35:58 AM

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RenatoPhoto

http://www.pululahuahostal.com  |  EF 300 f/4, EF 100-400 L, EF 180 L, EF-S 10-22, Samyang 14mm, Sigma 28mm EX DG, Sigma 8mm 1:3.5 EX DG, EF 50mm 1:1.8 II, EF 1.4X II, Kenko C-AF 2X

hjfilmspeed

Can you combine Auto exposure mod with flicker free and intervalometer instead of auto ettr for 1 minute intervals. This has probably been asked before sorry.

blainesuque

Quote from: RenatoPhoto on November 06, 2013, 01:25:15 PM
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5705.0

P.S. It is frustrating when people just ask before they even read the manual and try to understand!


totally understand, but i have read it and still cant find the thread or description of setting a minimum shutter, it only says direction of setting the slowest shutter. My question would be would i have to shoot in shutter priority or is there a option to set the MINIMUM shutter inside the Magic Lantern Menu. Yesterday evening i shot a sunset timelapse and i got massive exposure values switching towards the peaking of the sun going down.

dmilligan

Quote from: blainesuque on November 06, 2013, 09:39:42 PM

totally understand, but i have read it and still cant find the thread or description of setting a minimum shutter, it only says direction of setting the slowest shutter. My question would be would i have to shoot in shutter priority or is there a option to set the MINIMUM shutter inside the Magic Lantern Menu. Yesterday evening i shot a sunset timelapse and i got massive exposure values switching towards the peaking of the sun going down.

I think we need to clear up what you're asking: "minimum shutter" is kind of vague since shutter is talked about in terms of 'speed' or 'duration' (that's why it's better to use the term 'fastest' or 'slowest' shutter). If you are asking if there is a way to set the maximum fastest shutter speed (IOW minimum shutter duration), then no there isn't. If the image is going to overexpose, ETTR won't stop making the exposure shorter until the point that it hits the limit of the camera. If you were to set a maxium shutter speed less than the limit of the camera then your image could potentially be overexposed and blown out, when it didn't need to be. Please describe a situation where this would be desirable, I cannot think of one. I'd much rather have a picture with a shorter shutter duration than I intended, than have one that is blown out and unusable.

blainesuque

https://vimeo.com/78790129
Here is a timelapse that worked out ok for me doing a night to day timelapse of the stars in Joshua Tree. Everything seemed to work out fine with just very minimal flicker. (after a applying the GDB deflicker in premier its flawless)

https://vimeo.com/78789808
But I cant seem to get a day to night timelapse locked down yet, here is one from this evening. At the end of my shoot, i scrolled through the shots in camera and everything looked really good. But when i got home and imported into camera RAW, the exposures were all messed up drastically, the first 2 shots would be good then the next 3 or 4 would be totally overexposed, and that order would just keep repeating itself. I also got a lot of small jumps in the frame(not sure if it was wind or not, but only happens on these sunset timelapses i try, never at night.)  Any idea why this happened?

It was shot on a canon 5dmk3
slowest shutter at 1/30
highlight priority was at 6% for the sun flare
sidecar was xmp
and everything else was at default.Ettr level was good the whole time whole shooting


Danne

Is it the sidecar files that creates this since the pics looks alright otherwise?
If so I would advice you to skip internal sidecar files and use dmilligans cool deflicker script in adobe bridge instead.

RenatoPhoto

Quote from: blainesuque on November 07, 2013, 04:36:36 AM
https://vimeo.com/78789808
But I cant seem to get a day to night timelapse locked down yet, here is one from this evening.

Maybe your xmp files where never read by ACR.  To test this hypethesis you need to open one of the cr2 files and look at the exposure compensation, if there is none then that is your problem.

or

Maybe your interval is too short for ETTR and Post-processing to work properly.
http://www.pululahuahostal.com  |  EF 300 f/4, EF 100-400 L, EF 180 L, EF-S 10-22, Samyang 14mm, Sigma 28mm EX DG, Sigma 8mm 1:3.5 EX DG, EF 50mm 1:1.8 II, EF 1.4X II, Kenko C-AF 2X

blainesuque

Quote from: RenatoPhoto on November 07, 2013, 01:21:47 PM
Maybe your xmp files where never read by ACR.  To test this hypethesis you need to open one of the cr2 files and look at the exposure compensation, if there is none then that is your problem.

or

Maybe your interval is too short for ETTR and Post-processing to work properly.


well in ACR when i scroll through the photos, the exposure values do change so i know its reading it correctly. I think you might be right on the intervals though, i shot it at every 10 seconds because it was right at sunset (40 mins until the sun is down) and didnt want too quick of a timelapse. I will try again with a longer interval, it seems like that might be the problem because my night long exposure timelapses never have a problem with that. Also do you notice the jump in the timelapse? i want to beleive it can be slight movement during the timelapse but i dont think it is, my cameras and set up with really stable, could it be the shutter effecting it?

Thanks for replying by the way!

RenatoPhoto

10sec interval may be too short.  I never tested below 20 seconds.
http://www.pululahuahostal.com  |  EF 300 f/4, EF 100-400 L, EF 180 L, EF-S 10-22, Samyang 14mm, Sigma 28mm EX DG, Sigma 8mm 1:3.5 EX DG, EF 50mm 1:1.8 II, EF 1.4X II, Kenko C-AF 2X

franknitty69

thanks for this guide. i just shot my first time-lapse using ettr and dual-iso. it came out great. i can't wait to do my next one.
Canon 70D (70D.111B)

blainesuque

i have been updating with the nightly builds for the last week. Suddenly my XMP files are not being read by camera raw. I formatted my cards and re-installed the latest build of Magic Lantern , as i thought it would be the solution to this problem but it wasnt. I tried again and again and still ACR wont read my xmp files, which is very weird because last month i was doing a couple timelapses and it worked no problem. Is this a issue again in the newer builds? I have read the thread where it use to be a issue in the beginning stages back in May by setting your color space to sRGB instead of AdobeRGB as a workaround. But this whole time i have been shooting on Adobe RGB and havent had a problem with a timelapse until now. Can someone please point me into the right direction or let me know if theyre having the same problem?

Just to make sure these are my settings just like the tutorial front page.

Autto Ettr = always on (default settings)
Post Deflicker = XMP (default settings)
Intervelometer = 15s

My camera is in Maunal Mode, custom WB, and color space Adobe RGB


arturochu

Chu


RenatoPhoto

Quote from: arturochu on January 15, 2014, 07:33:56 AM
what doyou think?:

https://vimeo.com/83355543

of couse following instructions in this post.

Yay!!  At least one person reporting back with success!
http://www.pululahuahostal.com  |  EF 300 f/4, EF 100-400 L, EF 180 L, EF-S 10-22, Samyang 14mm, Sigma 28mm EX DG, Sigma 8mm 1:3.5 EX DG, EF 50mm 1:1.8 II, EF 1.4X II, Kenko C-AF 2X

mgrant

I tried a timelapse today on my 7D.  I was using the silent shutter feature (taking images in live mode) using the power saving feature to turn off the display inbetween snaps.  I am using Auto ETTR.  One image every 10 seconds. 

Out of 500 images, 4 images came out like this:

http://grant.org/mgrant/pub_images/bad-image-example.jpg

Can anyone shed any light on what's going on here?

PaulJBis

Hi all:

Complete newbie here (I just installed ML for the first time last week). I am using the stable 2.3 version (on a Canon 550D), and can't find any of the options discussed here in my menus; AutoETTR, for example, isn't there.

I figured that these options would be in the new alpha/nightly builds, but I'm a bit confused, since ETTR does appears in the user guide, which I understand applies to the stable version  (it says at the top "v2.3 - User's Guide"):

http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/userguide#exposure_to_the_right_ettr

So, can anyone confirm whether these options are available only on the non-stable builds?

Thanks.

mgrant

Paul,

Did you enable these modules in the modules menu?  You need to enable them first then power cycle the camera to get it to reboot and load them.

Michael

a1ex

@mgrant: at least on my camera, ETTR is not on the Overlay menu ;)

PaulJBis

Quote from: mgrant on February 14, 2014, 09:09:42 AM
Paul,

Did you enable these modules in the modules menu?  You need to enable them first then power cycle the camera to get it to reboot and load them.

Michael

I don't have a modules menu, hence my confusion. I'm using the stable 2.3 version, not any of the nightlies. If I open the SD card on a computer, I don't see any "modules" folder either inside ML.

So, it's either:

a) I hid the "modules" menu by accident when I first started playing with Magic Lantern (it did happen to me with other options).
b) As I suspect, the modules, scripts and other goodies are available only in the nightly builds, not in the "stable 2.3" version.

Can anyone confirm which is it?  ;)

Stedda

5D Mark III -- 7D   SOLD -- EOS M 22mm 18-55mm STM -- Fuji X-T1 18-55 F2.8-F4 & 35 F1.4
Canon Glass   100L F2.8 IS -- 70-200L F4 -- 135L F2 -- 85 F1.8 -- 17-40L --  40 F2.8 -- 35 F2 IS  Sigma Glass  120-300 F2.8 OS -- 50 F1.4 -- 85 F1.4  Tamron Glass   24-70 2.8 VC   600EX-RT X3


NickZee

OK. I read all 8 pages of this thread over the last few hours.   Stopping to test and learn along the way.  Here are a few questions I had, that I didn't see answered.  Sorry if they were and I missed it.  There is a lot going on here.

In post #30, page 2,
Morghus had a question about the Deflicker XMP over brightening the cr2
Quote from: Morghus on July 18, 2013, 11:48:11 PM
Thanks, yes I did use ML post deflicker but I couldn't get it to underexpose during the night - it was trying to brighten up the images considerably

I also notices that the xmp files were making my images +2ev (or so) over when viewed in LR.



Which I've learned means nothing if you are going to Exposure ramp them anyway with @dmilligan awesome script.  Right?  That prompts my next question.

Post #157 and 167 page
Quote from: Danne on October 24, 2013, 05:41:17 PM
Why don,t you use dmilligans script? It,s for postproduction deflickering.


If dmilligan Bridge script does it all, can we do away with xmp deflicker and just use ETTR?

600D
ETTR Default Setting
10" Slowest Shutter
Link Dual Iso OFF
Deflicker Default Setting
Trigger Mode in Halfs DblClick  (should have been Always ON)

10 Second Interval


I made a booboo by not have the interval long enough.  Should have had it a 15 seconds for 10" Slowest Shutter.


@RenatoPhoto  Thank you for your OP!  Very much appreciated!  In step #13 you missed a "-" (minus sign).   

Also, I was hung (confused) on this step, "RAW EV indicator: OFF  Here you can press the set button and select ETTR hint.  This will display in the RAW histogram a hint of how many more EVs you can expose to meet the ETTR parameters set in previous menu."

You have OFF in bold, but this needs function needs to be ON. 

Thank you to all that are making this possible!


Architectural Photography
NickZimmerman.com
5D MK3 & 600D | 24-70mm USMII L 2.8 | Nikon 14-24mm 2.8 | Nikon Nikkor 24mm 2.8 AIS & 50mm 1.4 AIS ** Windows 8.1 Pro | 32GB Ram | i7-4770 @ 3.4GHz

arturochu

What would your settings be in a night to day timelapse if you during the night part you want to have car light trails (at least 5 seconds long)?
Chu

andyshon

Quote from: NickZee on March 02, 2014, 09:39:42 AM
If dmilligan Bridge script does it all, can we do away with xmp deflicker and just use ETTR?

My understanding was that the in-camera deflicker uses the linear raw data to do calculations, where as the the script uses linearised data from the jpeg previews. Thus the in-camera deflicker is more accurate. I may have misunderstood this though..?