PS (Yeah I edited it once it posted) - I know this is 'experimental' code. I know what development is like - I have managed commercial imaging products before. I am not trying to be unreasonable...but I just feel like either I am missing something, or there is WAY more variability in the 60D performance than I expected...Any diagnostic or settings advice is welcome - I WANT to find a way to use raw on this camera if I can. - CT
PPS - more data - I just added a test at 3:1 )1280 x 426. Once again, pink blocks and a couple mostly pink frames, at least 18 in 10 seconds (again, ISO 100, 180 degree shutter 24FPS defaults, Global Draw off, audio off (may not mater in raw), latest build, SanDisk Extreme Pro). I did a test at 1280X536 as well, 3 frames in 10 seconds. As far as I can see now it is just pretty random...I can take a shot and hope for the best, but there does not appear to be any combination that wont get messed up at random right now...I just can't appear to find any 'safe' settings for 7-12 seconds that are consistent shot to shot (no single shot is actually free of bad data in some frames). I am continuing to try, but so far I can't find a way to get consistent footage in raw.
BTW - 2X data rate in H.264 works GREAT on this card and camera...I can go all day and not loose a shot...which is nice, but not quite as flexible as raw...but may be all I can get for now.
I downloaded the latest build from the hourly compiles by Rocket, and gave it a try on my new SanDisk Extreme Pro to see if the combination of this card and using a 2.39:1 lower res might get me past the random pink frames I got before.
I tried 1600x670 and 1472x616, and while I did get pretty good long recordings, I also got some (not as many as in older builds or 16:9 aspect ratio) pink blocks in my frames (sprinkled in the clips). Major bummer...

I have my audio turned off, I have Global Draw turned off, I have my still style set to S2, and every other setting I know about 'optimized' for RAW. My ISO was set to 100, speed to 24 (well you know it's really 23.976) FPS, shutter default to 180 (again, I am rounding the GUI off)...in short I did all I know to do with the fastest card I could buy (way faster than the interface on the 60D).
I know this sounds ungrateful, but I am a bit frustrated. I would really like to evaluate raw as a tool, but if I can't get consistent useful shots even at very short burst (7-14 seconds) how can I really use it as a tool at all? If I could find an aspect ratio and resolution that worked I would be at least able to do serious shots and decide if I can use the footage.
If I just get random messed up frames, is there any real way to easily extract them (automagically or not)? I suppose I can mark and delete them by hand, but frankly, at the amount I see in a 9-11 second clip I can't be sure the result will be worth looking at.
I am really just looking for even one resolution that actually works consistently (say more than 8 out of 10 times)...and yeah, I know, maybe I should just come back in 6 months when more code has been written and tested...I am an image processing specialist myself so I appreciate the code issues and hard work...but I am also a guy who wants to get good image quality out of his Canon camera gear for HD...and a happy Magic Lantern user before all this.
I can accept it if the 60D just won't ever work consistently for raw, but I think other folks may be getting MUCH better results, and I just want to figure out how.
I love the sharpness and DR of raw (just like stills), and I am not expecting full HD or any other impossible goal - I just can't for the life of me figure out what to change to get the sort of results others are posting from the 60D with apparently (from the correspondences I have had) no more data corruption from 'pink blocks'.
Is there any sort of diagnostic test or settings 'bible' I can use to figure out a way around the darn pink menace? Or is everyone else getting it and just removing those frames and I should expect to do the same?
I understand it may boil down to cards too (or serial numbers of 60D), but if there was some way to test in advance and know what your results would be (or a source for cards that was consistent) that might help...like I said, if it is just my camera, well, I guess I will deal with it the old fashioned way (pay for another) if that works (same for cards), but I really can't just keep playing 'pot luck' with every shot or every purchase (at the costs of cameras and high end cards).
Again - if this sort of thing is really just normal now, I can accept that, and I guess I can just wait and see, but it there is something I can actually do to get solid shots (or mostly solid shots) I really want to do it.