50D Raw video

Started by Andy600, May 22, 2013, 03:40:57 PM

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araucaria

Is there actually a way to make the camera wheels change the speed and iso values,? or at least the same way it eorks for photo, right now Im always doing it over the menus.

Andy600

The wheel (above shutter button) controls framerate and use top ISO button to change ISO
Colorist working with Davinci Resolve, Baselight, Nuke, After Effects & Premier Pro. Occasional Sunday afternoon DOP. Developer of Cinelog-C Colorspace Management and LUTs - www.cinelogdcp.com

BartekS

Quote
Exp override = yes

Shutter speed depends on what you are shooting or what look you are trying to achieve for the motion/motion blur. 1/24 at 24p is a 360 degree shutter. The typical shutter speed for natural motion blur is fps x2 so 24fps would mean 1/48 shutter speed. Go higher for less motion blur and a more choppy look and lower for low light (only if you have to).

ISO is wholly dependent on what you need to achieve correct exposure at your chosen aperture and shutter speed.

Thanks Andy for explanations :) All of these I understand. I just wanted to point out the best idea is to stay with full manual control, set shutter and iso fixed and respond to changing light during filming by changing aperture.

thorstone137

Quote from: Andy600 on July 22, 2013, 01:51:24 AM
It's a big topic but for a quick and very basic set up:

Set FPS to 23.976, 24 or 25p with FPS Override (set FPS override to exact)
Set shutter speed to one of the green values (these are approx 180 degrees)
Set histogram to raw
use the aperture and ISO to push exposure to the right of the histogram. If you see a "-" in front of the exposure value on the histogram you are clipping i.e. E1.0 is ok but E-1.0 is clipping so adjust your aperture and/or ISO to pull it back.

As I say, this is a pretty big topic with many variations of settings either for the shooting conditions, subject matter or for effect (i.e. Private Ryan) but these settings will get you started with (when used properly) good motion blur and good exposure. Don't forget to conform your footage in your NLE to whatever framerate you set FPS override to or you'll get glitchy playback.

If you let the shutter go wild you'll get un-natural looking footage so either try to stay at or around 2x your framerate and then read up on when and why to change the shutter speed.

Thanks Andy. Obviously I'm a newbie, but I've been trying to do my research. It's pretty cool how much is out there if you look. Everything was telling me I needed to get the shutter speed right. So I appreciate your confirmation. ;)

What do you mean by "Green Values"?

Is my shutter speed in the ML Exposure settings suppose to be changing automatically?




thorstone137

When I first turn on my camera at my C1 settings I have set shutter speed of 1/48 to my 24FPS. Then when I switch to live view to see my exposure my shutter speed changes. How and why? :p

Andy600

Green values = exactly how it sounds. The shutter numbers are green (or blue or red).

As I said earlier, using C1 or C2 will load settings exactly as they were saved unless overriden by magic lantern settings. If your shutter value is constantly changing you're either playing with the front wheel or some other ML setting is affecting things.
Colorist working with Davinci Resolve, Baselight, Nuke, After Effects & Premier Pro. Occasional Sunday afternoon DOP. Developer of Cinelog-C Colorspace Management and LUTs - www.cinelogdcp.com

johansugarev

My shutter is constantly changing to 1/33 when I gear up the ISO above 200. At ISO 100 I can get 1/48, but when I try to change the ISO things go south - the top LCD shows 1/50 but LV shows 1/33 and somthing like ISO 800eq when I'm on ISO 1600. Tried changing both with the wheel and in ML menu. THat is with Gregory's latest build, also with Tragic Lantern 2.0.

Andy600

Quote from: johansugarev on July 22, 2013, 02:30:25 AM
My shutter is constantly changing to 1/33 when I gear up the ISO above 200. At ISO 100 I can get 1/48, but when I try to change the ISO things go south - the top LCD shows 1/50 but LV shows 1/33 and somthing like ISO 800eq when I'm on ISO 1600. THat is with Gregory's latest build, also with Tragic Lantern 2.0.

Do you have exposure override enabled and what mode are you in?

Are you using auto ETTR? If so, switch it off.

re: top display - http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5586.msg60835#msg60835

Read through the last page or so. I explained how to set up and 1% explained that the top LCD shows photographic shutter speed. When you're shooting raw video you're in movie mode. Magic Lantern values are the correct ones.
Colorist working with Davinci Resolve, Baselight, Nuke, After Effects & Premier Pro. Occasional Sunday afternoon DOP. Developer of Cinelog-C Colorspace Management and LUTs - www.cinelogdcp.com

johansugarev

Read that. Not using auto ETTR. In C1 mode, witch is M in photo mode set to 1/50sec. ISO 100, auto WB. I first enable this mode, then LV, then Movie Mode, then Modules, then RAW, then I expose. EXP simulation is set to Movie, Exposure Override is not enabled. Should I always use it?
I'll try you 18Jul build in a moment.

Edit: Using Andy600's 18Jul build, it seems to be correct with exposure override. Its showing the ISO's as for example ISO100ov -  what does that mean? When I enable FPS override along with exposure override, I can get 1/54sec. and 1/49sec. with 23.976fps at ISO100ov set to optimize for low light. Also 1/64 at 30fps with FPS override off at ISO100ov, as well as other ISO values.
Shutter changes from 1/54 to 1/52 in 5x zoom with fps override on and from 1/64 to 1/59 with fps override off.
I should desable auto exposure on zoom mode (i guess).

DJG

Hey guys, I just want to say thank you for working so hard on these builds and turning the Canon 50D into a baby Red One! I was thinking about getting a BMCC, but this changed my mind at the last minute (literally, I had just tested out the 50D footage and I got a call about my BMCC pre-order shipping the next day. I canceled it and now I'm not as broke as I would've been, haha).

I did my first video here using Gregory's May 28th build:

https://vimeo.com/69726896


*I lost some footage because I went over the 4GB mark and got those pink files and .R00 files.
*I'm still unclear if RAW2DNG (PC version) works on files over 3.99GB. It wouldn't transcode to .DNG files for me. So for now, I'm just making sure my clips don't hit 4GB.
*I read something about stitching files together, but I'm not sure if that's related to the above problem or not.

Other than those two minor hiccups, I'm loving RAW. Recorded on Komputrbay 64GB 1000x. POST: I used CS6 ACR and made JPEGS and imported the JPEGS into PPRO and nested them to make sequences. (I think this was probably the long method, and I will try making DNxHD files in AE next time.)

thorstone137

Quote from: Andy600 on July 22, 2013, 02:22:34 AM
Green values = exactly how it sounds. The shutter numbers are green (or blue or red).

As I said earlier, using C1 or C2 will load settings exactly as they were saved unless overriden by magic lantern settings. If your shutter value is constantly changing you're either playing with the front wheel or some other ML setting is affecting things.

Ok.. So, I went through my settings and found that under "Movie Tweeks" I had "Shutter Lock - On". Turning it off seemed to stop the shutter speed from changing randomly.

That said, when I load C1 my settings are what they should be. I trash out of ML and hit the live view button then I hit the trash button to see my ML settings and my shutter speed changes to roughly 1/80. This is the same number that is at the bottom of my screen in "Green".

When I back out the same way and don't try to change the shutter speed by closing the live view screen and then hitting trash to bring up the ML settings my shutter speed is at 1/48 again.

When the live view screen is active and I see 1/80 and try to lower it to something close it won't let me set it to 1/48. However many stops down I try to take it from 1/80 reflects on the shutter speed though. For example, if I tried 3 stops down and then backed out by turning of live view and then bring up the ML settings my shutter speed will be at 1/45 rather than 1/48..

Is this normal?

johansugarev

As I mentioned earlier Andy's new build sort of fixed the problem. I can record at 1/64 at 30fps and at 1/54 at 23.988 fps.
The camera got pretty hot after 15 minutes of testing.

thorstone137

Here's a video of the shutter lock issue I was talking about


thorstone137

After having success indoors. I decided to take a walk and get some footage. When using the latest Raw2dng I got a interlacing method not supported on all my raw files.. what the?

Raw2cDng won't even let me load them in the program..

Any clues?

Actually, I just remembered while I was in live view my greys and blacks would shift to a purple for a sec and then shift back for a couple secs and then back to purple.. It was a first for me..

I've tried several more since I got home and I get the same thing when using Raw2dng.exe

interlacing method not supported
iso bdbd


goldenchild9to5

Quote from: thorstone137 on July 22, 2013, 03:48:25 AM
Here's a video of the shutter lock issue I was talking about



Try putting "Exp Override" ON cause you had it off need that for right Shutter..

goldenchild9to5

Quote from: DJG on July 22, 2013, 03:03:20 AM
Hey guys, I just want to say thank you for working so hard on these builds and turning the Canon 50D into a baby Red One! I was thinking about getting a BMCC, but this changed my mind at the last minute (literally, I had just tested out the 50D footage and I got a call about my BMCC pre-order shipping the next day. I canceled it and now I'm not as broke as I would've been, haha).

I did my first video here using Gregory's May 28th build:

https://vimeo.com/69726896


*I lost some footage because I went over the 4GB mark and got those pink files and .R00 files.
*I'm still unclear if RAW2DNG (PC version) works on files over 3.99GB. It wouldn't transcode to .DNG files for me. So for now, I'm just making sure my clips don't hit 4GB.
*I read something about stitching files together, but I'm not sure if that's related to the above problem or not.

Other than those two minor hiccups, I'm loving RAW. Recorded on Komputrbay 64GB 1000x. POST: I used CS6 ACR and made JPEGS and imported the JPEGS into PPRO and nested them to make sequences. (I think this was probably the long method, and I will try making DNxHD files in AE next time.)

Great video.. like the images and camera work. 

goldenchild9to5

I don't know what it is with the 50D with low light shooting  :'(, any ISO above 800 example 1000, 1250 +.. are really noisy.  Images @ times are not even usable way too many pattern noise specially in the shadows.  I replicated the same scenes, and settings meaning ISO, F-Stop used the same lens and gaged the exposure on my Hacked GH2 and got way cleaner and usable footage.  Not knocking the 50D but when shooting Raw in low light to me it's been a problem with the amount of noise I'm getting.  Try every setting on the Canon menu, and ML nothing helps.  From my observation and test the 50D is surely a winner for all daylight shoots, and not for low light.

If anybody wanna chime in with their experiences and settings shooting with the 50D in low light that would be great. 

v1rt

Really happy with ML. Thank you folks!

Canon 50D
f/5.6
Canon 70-200mm @ 200mm
400x CF card

ML settings
Exp Override true
ISO 100
23.976 fps Exact
1/48 shutter
HaCKed
Global Draw false

1584x662 reencoded to 1920x1080 libx264 using ffmpeg

I post processed all the images in Linux using ffmpeg. I also used it to pad 139pixels top and bottom since a/r is 2.39. If I don't do it, YouTube down converts the quality to 480p :( Anyways, by padding it, I'm able to keep the high image quality.
I'm extremely happy with the results.


rommex

Quote from: DJG on July 22, 2013, 03:03:20 AM
Hey guys......
*I lost some footage because I went over the 4GB mark and got those pink files and .R00 files.
*I'm still unclear if RAW2DNG (PC version) works on files over 3.99GB. It wouldn't transcode to .DNG files for me. So for now, I'm just making sure my clips don't hit 4GB.
*I read something about stitching files together, but I'm not sure if that's related to the above problem or not.


Nice video.

Try using Raw2CDNG. It does work with files longer than 4GB.

You first rename split files (so that they have extensions .001, .002, etc) and then use the free program File Splitter & Joiner to join them.

Then you feed the resulting files to Raw2CDNG -- it should work. It worked for me.

UPDATED: also I had been a fan of 28 May Build for long since it was stable and firm as a rock. Now I use Andy's new build and I would encourage you to try it -- you'll like it as well -- PINK frames are a history :) :

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5586.msg59779#msg59779

Andy600

@thorstone137 - First, why are jumping in and out of Live View and changing settings? Also, I noticed you have auto WB enabled. Set WB manually or at least use a preset (daylight, cloudy, tungsten etc). I don't know if auto WB will cause color shift during a shot but my guess is that it could.

The 'purple' frame issue is something else. What build are you using?

Regarding your conversion problem. Interlacing error? I've not seen this before  ???. Is Raw2dng.exe displaying this error and if so can you explain the steps you are taking to see the error? Does it happen when you drag-and-drop a raw file onto raw2dng.exe.
Colorist working with Davinci Resolve, Baselight, Nuke, After Effects & Premier Pro. Occasional Sunday afternoon DOP. Developer of Cinelog-C Colorspace Management and LUTs - www.cinelogdcp.com

Andy600

Quote from: rommex on July 22, 2013, 10:20:52 AM
Nice video.

Try using Raw2CDNG. It does work with files longer than 4GB.

You first rename split files (so that they have extensions .001, .002, etc) and then use the free program File Splitter & Joiner to join them.

Then you feed the resulting files to Raw2CDNG -- it should work. It worked for me.

UPDATED: also I had been a fan of 28 May Build for long since it was stable and firm as a rock. Now I use Andy's new build and I would encourage you to try it -- you'll like it as well -- PINK frames are a history :) :

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5586.msg59779#msg59779


I wouldn't advise anyone to use the 28 May build. Too much has changed and lots of issues have since been fixed and continue to be fixed.

My latest builds are here https://bitbucket.org/andy600/andy50d/downloads (Unified) or here: https://bitbucket.org/andy600/tl50d/downloads (Tragic Lantern 2.0)

My Unified build is effectively the same code that GregoryOfManhatten compiles here: https://bitbucket.org/GregoryOfManhattan/magic-lantern/downloads so check for whichever of ours is newer. His is currently.

Tragic Lantern 2.0 has better raw video performance and better shutter control but if you are a newbie I would suggest waiting for the coming 50D guide before trying it as some of the settings (and quirks) are undocumented and need explanation.

Colorist working with Davinci Resolve, Baselight, Nuke, After Effects & Premier Pro. Occasional Sunday afternoon DOP. Developer of Cinelog-C Colorspace Management and LUTs - www.cinelogdcp.com

rommex

Quote from: Andy600 on July 22, 2013, 11:32:49 AM
...
I wouldn't advise anyone to use the 28 May build...

For some reason I stuck to it for a month a so -- it worked just reliably and with no glitches, as opposed t some newer ones in June.
But the current builds are super, for sure. 8)


jgerstel




Testing 50D crop mode, now 50mm lens turns into zoom lens!

Very crisp image!

Camera: canon 50D
Resolution: 1920 x 1080
Magic Lantern RAW
max frames I get with 1080P crop on 50D: 171

RAW shot straight from camera can be downloaded here:
https://www.wetransfer.com/downloads/a3a6bc0b5c34c138b7c348c52487b0c320130722140507/47f5ed6aaaeab43d763b2e40731f901b20130722140508/d0bcc2

akumiszcza

Quote from: rommex on July 22, 2013, 10:20:52 AM
Try using Raw2CDNG. It does work with files longer than 4GB.

You first rename split files (so that they have extensions .001, .002, etc) and then use the free program File Splitter & Joiner to join them.

Then you feed the resulting files to Raw2CDNG -- it should work. It worked for me.

You don't need to join them before dropping to raw2cdng. Just get .raw, .r00 etc. and drop everything to newest raw2cdng. It will join and convert them itself.