600D/T3i Raw Video

Started by N/A, May 18, 2013, 04:16:46 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

1%

Probably, but I'm not getting pink frames so I'll have to record some more an see if I can reproduce it. I think new system was after buffer changes, not sure.

AriLG

Well, with this build I'm not getting pink frames, either (up untill now). and 1024 resolution is back... but :

1) I miss the beep on/beep off (good for sync ?)

2) the two versions of Hack freeze my screen entirely.

Is it realistic to hope for 1280 (2.39) ?...  :) it's the only resolution up until now that I was more or less satisfied with... (in the realm of the T3i restrictions)
T3i (main), T2i
------------------
It's not about accuracy,  it's about Aesthetics

1%

You should be able to turn sync beep on, sound menu is still there, just took off wav because its never going to work while writing.

Hack + GD off = frozen screen and preview doesn't show.
Hack + GD on = frozen screen + preview

2nd hack is if you don't turn off GD while recording, a little bit obsolete with GD on/off handling everything.

Yea, shot 82 frames.. first record (w/ card warmup on) and no pink frames. I dunno if you get one for the very first frame or something but otherwise no issue. 640x480 with FPS.


AriLG

I meant : is it realistic to shoot for a conceivable amount of time... I can do now 300 frames or so (11-12 seconds) with 1280x535.
is it a dream to hope for 30 seconds ? (yea, I know about the controller...)
T3i (main), T2i
------------------
It's not about accuracy,  it's about Aesthetics

Haliburton

Thanks, 1%.

I am using New System (June 15) and see no setting for Global Draw off while raw recording, unless it has a special name?

In other news, both on my 60D and 600D at 23.976 FPS, it seems I have lost the ability to set shutter speeds approaching 360º, with Exposure Override on.

I have already experimented with shutter range settings in FPS over-ride, to no avail. I can set a very few shutter speeds about 360º when undercranking for time lapse (eg 1 fps to 7 fps) when FPS is set to "optimize for low light," but when I set 23.976 FPS, I cannot set shutter speed within ML any lower than 1/31 second.

Does anyone have some suggestions on what may cause this?

Perhaps interaction with other settings?


A tip I discovered, which may be more widely useful (in which case, where should I post it?):

I find the auto white balance feature within ML to be invaluable, and use it with my gray card all the time.

When under-cranking with long shutter speeds around 360º though, the results are completely wonky, with vastly different WB settings taken seconds apart under identical lighting conditions.

My strategy is now to set ML white balance at "normal" shutter speeds, then set long shutter speeds as required, and make test clips of gray card and chip chart (Color Checker Passport).

I use DNGs from the latter to create custom camera profiles for each lighting situation, and expect that it should prove useful for keeping color consistent when I begin to use polarizers, which may not be completely "neutral" density when used with digital cameras.

This is separate altogether from the problem with infrared light—especially with ND filters—affecting digital sensors messing up color and fabric rendition:
http://www.ryanewalters.com/Blog/blog.php?categories=IR

Schneider Platinum IRND filters
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v65N4pwWfxI



Quote from: 1% on June 29, 2013, 05:52:47 AM
It already does the first half of that, just set GD off in the module. The format has to settle down and get finalized before we can write guides.

1%

Should be in module settings. If its not there before, it is now.

Quote
Does anyone have some suggestions on what may cause this?

Shutter speeds in movie mode are electronic. The speeds you were using before weren't tied to the electronic shutter at all. Now it shows the real speed, with override you can set a few more from the ML menu and get closest to 180 deg.

The limit was always something like 1/31, just the canon GUI tries to set photo shutter speeds. On 50D it lets you set 30" in movie mode and no way that is a real speed looking at the shutter timer.

Edgar Matos

Quote from: 1% on July 01, 2013, 10:08:24 PM
Shutter speeds in movie mode are electronic.

Yes, it took me a little while to figure how to work with it. But after you know what speed you want your time lapse you can fix your settings (FPS). Still, is too bad being unable to change the shutter speed. With out mention that you still have the 30 minutes limitation on video mode (this got me by surprise... I hate surprises). Regardless of that, the function is very useful exactly as it is (plus, there is no flickering this way) If you are looking for a specific time lapse setting you have to jump to picture mode.   

1%

The settings in picture mode are only valid for shutter click photos, when you set other speeds there the E shutter isn't really at those speeds, it stops where it stops in movie mode..

I can make the indicator say whatever.. but that will not be the actual speed the electronic shutter is at.


Edgar Matos

Yes.

I meant using a physical shutter or intervalometer for advance settings. Sorry for the confusion.

I wonder. Will it be possible to change the E shutter at will in the future? For example. I was using the raw module to record time lapses last week. and the lower I can get is 1/0.2 Eshutter but I had to go all the way down using FPS. The problem is: If I want to use that FPS in a very fast object/subject, it will be showing blurry things moving like hell all directions. Nothing wrong with that, but sometimes you need exactly the opposite. The other method is to record in a higher frame rate but it will consume a lot more space... A lot.   
 

1%

Thats the only real way to get long exposure in live view, lower the fps (sample longer). The sensor is wide open, nothing is actually moving.

Sane__

Hey at that moment i don't have the chance to test it myself so i want to ask you, what is the highest possible resolution you can shoot raw at lest 3-4 seconds (i'm NOT interested with continious) at 23.976 (24 fps) ?

vicnaum

Quote from: Sane__ on July 02, 2013, 05:24:28 PM
Hey at that moment i don't have the chance to test it myself so i want to ask you, what is the highest possible resolution you can shoot raw at lest 3-4 seconds (i'm NOT interested with continious) at 23.976 (24 fps) ?

I can get 100 frames (4 seconds with a bit) at 1600x672 (2.39:1) @ 23.976 fps (in 640x480 canon mode).

Or I can get around 120 frames (5 seconds) at 1728x576 => 1728x960 (16:9) @ 23.976 fps (in 720p canon mode, with skipped lines, stretched mode)

So, if you just need a couple of secs - you can already shoot at almost full-res.

Sane__


Wartburg-Entertainment

Hello,

first many thanks for the new files.
Now although I have no more pink pictures, but there are still many images are overlapped to 50% with a noise.

I can record continuously 1088x488.
Currently I use the Canon Preview. - Is it because?

Thank you

Deadcode

Could anyone try recording a short footage in 1280x720 @ 15 fps --> 30 fps with Twixtor? Im really interested in motion smoothness.   

1%

QuoteCurrently I use the Canon Preview. - Is it because?

Use 640x480 w/ fps override or try killing LV altogether with hacked mode.

shawnwytch

Im a 550d user about to buy a few t3i's and was wondering is raw further along then the 550d I know there was a memory problem with the 550d is this same problem here i remember someone saying the 500d had more memory then the 550d so im thinking the 600d maybe would have more memory then the 550d but i maybe mistaken

Wartburg-Entertainment

Quote from: 1% on July 03, 2013, 03:33:37 PM
Use 640x480 w/ fps override or try killing LV altogether with hacked mode.

Hello,

Unfortunately no success.
Of course I have not tried without LV.
What does that make for a meaning, or who will be working with it?

Greetings from Germany

CFP

Quote from: shawnwytch on July 06, 2013, 03:58:35 AM
Im a 550d user about to buy a few t3i's
If you want to film in RAW, don't buy a T3i / 600D. It is limited to 0.5 Megapixel resolutions at 24 frames per second since it has the same 21 Megabyte write speed issue like the T2i / 550D. So if you want to film with a 16:9 aspect ratio for more than a few seconds you have to use 960 X 540 which gives you a crop factor of almost 3 and looks worse than H.264.

If you don't want to film in RAW, get a T3i. It's as nice as the T2i but has the flipscreen.
Otherwise, get a used 50D, a T4i / 650D or a Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera.

1%

T4i may be a bad option. I think the LV is permanently 720P squished unless you use crop mode.

CFP

The 650D has issues. Like the current 37 Megabyte/s write speed limit and the AF-Points in the image. But are you sure that it's always squished? I thought it would be better than the 600D because it has a better SD-Controller. But it is far away from being perfect and if it really has no option for unsquished images ...

1%

Thats how EOS-M is and they are 90% similar.

alephone

The latest nightly build has raw modules in it.  When I try loading them I am getting this error:

tcc: error:undefined symbol 'edmac_copy_rectangle_finish ... [E] failed to link modules

has anyone else with a 600d come across this problem and does anyone know what the fix for it is?

1%

Make sure you replaced symbols file.

alephone

Forgive me for the stupid question but what am I replacing the symbol file with?  I tried replacing it with the Six Thirty version symbol file and I am now getting a memory full error.  Ive tried different versions of the symbol file from previous builds and no luck.