Uncompressed 14-bit RAW video testing - 5D Mark III

[gdicus]

What version do you have?

I know the older builds were programmatically limited to about a 4GB limit, which was about 1100 frames, give or take some frames.

Try the latest Aug 21st build, it has continuous run enabled.

[Midphase]

He had auto-shutoff enabled. Noob mistake....been there done that myself!

[bigbird_rob]

Hi there,

I'm wondering if anyone can help me. I have installed the latest Magic Lantern software for the 5d mk3 (21st August) but am noticing artifacts in frames intermittently.

Has anyone had any similar problems, or know of a way to fix this?

I have tried installing the older firmware, changing from 25p to 24p, but have found the same issue regardless.
I am using a 64gig 1000x Komputer Bay card which seems to maintain a speed of about 91mb/sec when recording.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/90530074@N03/9635692669/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/90530074@N03/9638932734/

Any help would be much appreciated.

[Midphase]

I feel like I'm a broken record here, but it helps to have more info than that...such as what resolution are you shooting on, crop mode or not, what frame rate, how do you process the shots, etc.

I can tell you that I just shot 2 full cards worth of 1920X1080 footage just the other day for my latest short film, I used the August 21 revision, had Global Draw on with focus peaking and raw histograms, was shooting at some point as high as 10000 ISO, and all of my footage looks perfect (even the shot where the 1st card run out of space).

I'm not sure what to tell you, except that I don't think there's anything wrong with the August 21st revision, so it's likely the result of some other factors at work.

[bigbird_rob]

Thanks for the reply and apologies to everyone for posting twice initially. I'm new to this.

I'm shooting 1920x1080, had global draw on in focus peaking and no crop mode. I've been shooting in 24p and my iso's at 800.

I'm using the raw2dng program to convert the raw to DNG. I can see the artefacts in the dngs.

Any other ideas anyone? Or better programs to use to convert the RAW?

[bigbird_rob]

FIXED.

So I tried formatting my cards, using a different card reader, using different converting software (RawMagic), trying it on different computers (Mac and PC) but had no positive results. It was clearly something in camera that was causing the issue as the same frames had artefacts, no matter how I imported/converted it.

We shoot aerial footage predominantly, so our shutter speed is usually at least 100 to stabilise better if needed, but what I found was that the faster shutter speed was the cause of the artefact, because when I changed it to 50 I no longer had the issue at all. I tried many different shots without fail. I then changed the shutter back to 100 and the issue returned.

So basically, it was a shutter speed issue.

Thanks.

[Charles]

Interesting; I shoot lots of aerial, although I'm just learning RAW and have not shot any aerial with it yet, but am running higher shutter speeds with RAW in anticipation of stabilization, usually around 1/200.  I do see some black frames and streaked frames when I use ACR and export to video with After Effects.  If I just use the same RAW footage and export JPEGs from ACR, and use the JPEGs in the editor or Virtualdub all the frames are clean.  So I attribute the artifacts to the After Effects export, and have modified my workflow.  This is with a Lexar 64 GB card and raw2dng.

If you anticipate stabilization a nice workflow is to go to JPEG with ACR, bring the JPEGs directly into Virtualdub, and run Deshaker with AVI out.  This is a pretty quick process; I'll probably fly tomorrow to give it a try.

[Midphase]

This is probably something that should be flagged to the developers if a shutter speed higher than 50 yields corrupt frames.

It's unusual for people to shoot at higher shutter speeds, but it does happen.

I wonder if maybe using the Force Frame Rate function would help with that? Just a thought.

[bigbird_rob]

UNRESOLVED:

Continued with tests today having done 5 tests with my shutter at 50 successfully then trying at 100 and it then going back to the same issue. I though the problem was solved, but:
This morning I shot a range of shots at different apertures but keeping the shutter speed of 50, much to my confusion, the same issue is back intermittently. I am now sure it is an in camera issue, but clearly it actually isn't reliant on the shutter speed, as the artefact plays back in the magic lantern software on the camera and I can see the artefacts in that.

Very confused. Perhaps it's a card issue? I'm using a Komputerbay 64gig 1000x card but it seems to be giving consistent speeds of around 88-91mb/sec and not dropping frames. Other than that it could only be something in the software? But no one seems to have had similar issues with the 21 Aug firmware?

Thanks,

[gdicus]

Can you post a frame grab?

[bigbird_rob]

Sure,

Here is one:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90530074@N03/9650009648/

It is a line of colourful artefacts that flash for a frame in the bottom or top third of the screen intermittently.

Thanks,

[RenatoPhoto]

I feel like I'm a broken record here, but it helps to have more info than that...such as what resolution are you shooting on, crop mode or not, what frame rate, how do you process the shots, etc.

Agree 100%  It is very difficult to help if you do not provide more information about the settings that you are using to record the video.

Additionally make sure you do this:

You should check that in Canon Menu:
Image Quality = Raw
Auto Lighting Optimizer = OFF
Long exp. noise reduction = OFF
High ISO spee NR = OFF
Higthlight tone priority = OFF
Multiple Exposure = Disable
HDR Mode = Disagle HDR

Also you are recommended to use FPS override, it use to eliminate some problems with frames:

23.  Move to the Movie tab and select FPS override with the scroll wheel.  (see note below)
24. Press the Q button
25. Change the Desired FPS to 23.97 using the small (top) scroll wheel.
26. Move to the Optimize for with the large scroll wheel.
27. Change to Exact FPS with the small scroll wheel.
28. Press the Q button and then press the Set button (on the center of the large scroll wheel) to enable FPS override
29. Now FPS should read 23.97

And Finally you should upload the original DNG for a more advanced DEV to look at.

[xRun]

For very long exposure, recording at 1fps or so and averaging the frames in post should do the trick.

With this, you will also get better dynamic range (for example, when averaging 16 pics, the standard deviation of the noise should be 4 times lower, so you effectively get 2 stops of extra DR if I'm not overlooking something).

Just got back, been away for a couple of weeks. Just making sure I understand, you're saying this method would be about equal to long exposures? Say 1sec exposures 30 times over adds up to one 30sec exposure, useful for capturing a starry night sky, and with added DR? That would be a godsend if it works equally well.
I just can't run a proper test for a few days because of cloud cover in my area. Has anyone else done any testing on this?

[dude]

I film 1/100 all the time because i am doing sport movies.
no problems or corrupted frames at all

[bigbird_rob]

SO, I spent yesterday testing different shots with different camera settings but kept on getting the same artefacts appearing intermittently, until finally my Komputer Bay 64gig 1000x card just stopped working altogether.
(it now says it's not readable on the camera and even my computer won't let me format it, saying there's an error with the disk.)

On a bit of a time restraint, I went and got a new CF card this morning - a Lexar 32gig 1000x - and have done over 15 tests today and the artefact has not appeared. Success.

That being said, I also changed my Canon menu settings to RAW only (as opposed to RAW and Jpg) and turned the long exposure noise reduction off, as well as turning the FPS Override on according to Renatophoto's specifications.

All the rest of my settings within ML are standard -  I have not played around with any advanced settings. All of my Canon settings were according to Renatophoto's suggestions (plus I was on 24p) and camera controls varied (including shutter speed) without any further issues.

I'm not sure if it was the camera and ML settings that made it right or the Lexar CF card. My guess is that it was a CF card issue, seems my Komputer Bay one actually stopped working altogether. Still strange that the record speeds seemed right and it never dropped frames, but anyways - the issue seems to be solved.

I can mail the DNG of a frame I had an issue with prior to the Komputer Bay card stopping working, if an advanced DEV wants to have a look at it.

Thanks for everyone's help.

[Midphase]

Additionally make sure you do this:

You should check that in Canon Menu:
Image Quality = Raw

I'm confused, I thought it is best if the camera still image quality is set to jpeg and not raw....has something changed?

[RenatoPhoto]

I'm confused, I thought it is best if the camera still image quality is set to jpeg and not raw....has something changed?

For 5DMIII (3) use RAW in Canon menu

[Vegeta]

Id like to report a bug/glitch or w.e it is with the latest Build for Raw.

Komputerbay 64gb 1000x
Global Draw off (everything is off) - the recording works perfectly fine actually. No issue there

The problem is when Im shooting raw, and want to "zoom in" to fine tune the area within the box, the camera/rom freezes. Turning the camera off does not help since the picture stays on. Only thing that works is pulling out the battery.

Hope this helps.

[vstrglv]

I use Toshiba 1066x 64GB cards. When raw file size reaches 47GB drop frame takes place and recording stops (Frame skipping -off). Is it normal?

[gdicus]

Warning about KomputerBay!

I had one of two cards fail.  They did not honor their warranty.

Just an FYI!

[SteveTownsend]

Warning about KomputerBay!

I had one of two cards fail.  They did not honor their warranty.

Just an FYI!

That's interesting I have just bought two but thinking about buying more.

I did send a 128 1000x back originally because it didn't work with my 5D3 which I got a refund back from Amazon and then I bought another but this time a 128 1050x which does work.

I am interested in how the card failed.  The warranty or lack of it is important but the loss of images could be much more critical in some circumstances.  Could you tell a little more?  How long were you using it successfully before it failed?  And any other information.

I am not using the ML raw on any paying job at the moment. But I don't want to make a huge investment in KB cards if they are unreliable.

[Midphase]

I am not using the ML raw on any paying job at the moment. But I don't want to make a huge investment in KB cards if they are unreliable.

Sigh....Komputerbay cards are not unreliable, but just like everything else you do get what you pay for. A Hoodman Steel card goes for about 3 times the cost of a Komputerbay card, my guess is that HS cards use 1st pick memory chips while Komputerbay gets the leftovers. They both offer limited lifetime warranties and if your card fails (or if you have issues with the write speed) within 30 days of purchase, Amazon will take care of exchanging it.

There are tons of people around here (myself included) who use Komputerbay cards on a regular basis with no problems whatsoever. Just like most flash-based memory (including SSD drives), they have a finite lifetime and will fail at some point in the future.

The question really comes down to how much money you can spend on cards?

For my needs and budget I'd rather own 3 KB cards than 1 HS card knowing that at least with the KB if one fails I still have the other two.

Komputerbay has benefitted a great deal from Magic Lantern raw, they have become the closest thing to an "official card of ML raw" as anyone can claim, and there are many positive reports of them bending over backwards to resolve customer issues. I would want to be more informed before jumping to conclusions based on a single post devoid of any details.

[yanone]

Id like to report a bug/glitch or w.e it is with the latest Build for Raw.

...

The problem is when Im shooting raw, and want to "zoom in" to fine tune the area within the box, the camera/rom freezes. Turning the camera off does not help since the picture stays on. Only thing that works is pulling out the battery.

This happens to me only when recording. When idle the magnification works.

[kh3naz]

is there a way to delete the RAW files from within the camera or at least cancel/delete the current recording ? This would be really useful

[RenatoPhoto]

is there a way to delete the RAW files from within the camera or at least cancel/delete the current recording ? This would be really useful

Load up file_man module (File Manager).  This is a very handy module to preview, delete, copy, and move files. 
Once it is loaded you can find it in the Debug Menu