Magic Lantern for 7D alpha 2

Started by g3gg0, December 23, 2012, 11:30:14 PM

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feureau

Quote from: StefanKeller.AC on December 25, 2012, 10:47:12 AM
Settings are save on the card, so you can optimize it once for each card.
its a feature now ;D


Flush and GOP settings aren't currently being saved. Plus there's different  optimal settings for different situations.

feureau

Quote from: RAK1966 on December 25, 2012, 11:48:31 AM
I use mainly the bit rates increase .... but somehow it does not happen with me. I set up a CBR times at 2 to 3. But the uptake rate is unfortunately not up. It goes partially downwards. (Display film Inspector in QuickTime Player)
I would like a cbr 100 mbit / s

What are your settings?
If you use low ISOs there might not be enough details to save, therefore the bitrate stays low.

For maximum bitrate, try this:
Disable audio, ISO 12800 Flush at 4, GOP 1 and fill the screen with tall grasses. You're going to need a fast card, but I managed to hit around 350mbit/s this way.

One caveat: this is a nice cute exercise but for real world shooting, you should optimize to get the most details you can, instead of extremely high bitrate.

g3gg0

for that reason gop 100 might be good.
you save no unneccessary image regions, so you save your bitrate for the regions that need the high details
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primeone

Great news on the Alpha-2!

Thanks a lot :)

Myabe it's time to update this page though http://www.magiclantern.fm/newmodelsstatus ? ;)

Pelican


http://pel.hu/down/ML7D.png

I've played with the info screen a little, but I've forgot how can I update it to my fork... :(

And one question:

The mode warning is more useful for me if it warns when I not in the Av mode (instead of M), because I mostly use Av, and I use M mode only for (multi)flash photography.
I've changed it to fit my taste, but maybe others don't like it.
So, what do you think?
M or Av or configurable?


Edit: I've made the mode warning configurable, fixed the ALO warning and put the info screen changes to my fork. It will go to the main source when my pull request will accept.
EOS 7D Mark II, EOS 7D, EOS 5, EOS 100 + lenses (10mm to 300mm), 600EX, 550EX, YN600EX x 3
EOScard, EOS DSLR firmwares, ARMu, NiControl, etc.: http://pel.hu/down

feureau

Quote from: Pelican on December 25, 2012, 10:31:49 PM
http://pel.hu/down/ML7D.png

I've played with the info screen a little, but I've forgot how can I update it to my fork... :(

Holy cow! That is awesome. If you can get that to the release that would be great :D

Quote from: Pelican on December 25, 2012, 10:31:49 PM
The mode warning is more useful for me if it warns when I not in the Av mode (instead of M), because I mostly use Av, and I use M mode only for (multi)flash photography.
I've changed it to fit my taste, but maybe others don't like it.
So, what do you think?
M or Av or configurable?

That's a great idea, my vote goes to configurable because some people may not like it.

feureau

Quote from: g3gg0 on December 25, 2012, 03:51:25 PM
for that reason gop 100 might be good.
you save no unneccessary image regions, so you save your bitrate for the regions that need the high details

I know from my previous testings that in the default firmware, you can really tell the difference between the I frame and the P frame, with the P frames looking worse. I'm testing it again with long GOP at 96 (for 24 frames x 4 seconds) with audio enabled. I'll give an update with whatever I can find later.

Though it can get confusing after too many video recordings: I wish the video .log files record GOP and flush settings too. I get confused which file is which sometimes. Had to take notes separately.

And changing GOP and flush kept disabling audio - it can get quite annoying to have to re-enable audio every time I change the GOP. Would be nice to have an option to do this separately. (the one that comes with the firmware is buried pretty deep if you go back and forth from ML).

Recording audio seems to only work when flush is at 24. Is this something due to the experimental nature of this feature or is this how it's supposed to be?

One thought: Maybe it would be useful (if at all possible) to change and customize the CBR/QScale factor  and flush and GOP size (even on-the-fly while recording) according to ISO values, apart from the custom settings I mentioned, of course. For instance: I was just trying something out, and at ISO 12800 one scene would fail at QScale -8 or lower. However, the same scene would record at a rather low bitrate at ISO 100 at QScale -16. The idea is that if you change the ISO settings, the QScale settings would change along with it, maximizing bitrate but not letting the video to stop recording. Thoughts?

Thanks for all the hard work, g3gg0! :D

Digital Corpus

Quick Notes. If I don't make a comment after the feature, that means it seems to work fine and I love it :)

White Balance Manipulation
ISO Manipulation

REC/STBY - Beep doesn't work, We have no Blue LED

Bracketing
Mirror Lockup Tweaks

Follow Focus via Joystick (Bug, with zoom via half shutter, follow focus does not work, will look into further)
Adjustable speed settings

Disabling x5 zoom
Increase SharpContrast (You can see if more so when zoomed in)
LiveView Zooming on Half Shutter
Focus Box Settings
LiveView Power Savings


I know these notes are sparse, but you added oh so much, it's impossible to go through it with a fine tooth comb right now :)
7D w/ ML | Tokina ATX 11-16 | Canon 24 mm pancake | Canon 40 mm pancake | Canon 17-55 f/2.8 IS | Sigma 150-600 Sports

xmd5a


Digital Corpus

Quote from: xmd5a on December 26, 2012, 02:24:57 PM
Can not confirm that. Beep works.
Double checking this morning and you're correct. Works fine now :\
7D w/ ML | Tokina ATX 11-16 | Canon 24 mm pancake | Canon 40 mm pancake | Canon 17-55 f/2.8 IS | Sigma 150-600 Sports

alband

Quote from: feureau on December 26, 2012, 12:09:40 AM
Holy cow! That is awesome. If you can get that to the release that would be great :D

That's a great idea, my vote goes to configurable because some people may not like it.

Agreed, that's a really nice look for the info screen.
Also agree with the M/Av thing.

Thanks everyone. GOT to get a CF card reader!

Carlomera

First of all,

Thx for bringing out for 7D. This is great news.

When I installed it, it worked first. Then when I restarted the camera, i did not see the ML menu anymore. It's like it was not installed.

Expecting the beta version...

Success..

beej

Quote from: Carlomera on December 27, 2012, 02:53:18 AMWhen I installed it, it worked first. Then when I restarted the camera, i did not see the ML menu anymore. It's like it was not installed.

Yes, alpha versions have to be manually reloaded every time for now.

Serdcelov

Hello! Thanks for the firmware, did a great job! Firmware enjoy!

We would like to see in the new alpha version of more opportunities in the silent picture - such as a matrix of multiple images with zoom ...Thanks!!

feureau

Speaking of sticky keys of holding half-shutter for a few seconds to stop and start recording video: How about using the M.Fn. key to start and stop recording too? it's seldom used, and it's sitting right beside the shutter button. Looks perfect to start and stop recording video, this button is quite similarly placed as in the video record button on the Nikon D800. Should help mitigate/reduce that shake that happens  when you start/stop recording.

chasv

Thanks to the team for all the additional features for us to test.  :)

I have a request for future 7D Alpha releases regarding the "red" pulsing error message which pops up at the bottom of the LCD display when required.

Red text on a black background is a really bad idea to start off with as the contrast between these two colours is just too low to render a crisp edge to the letters. Pulsing the colour of the error message text from black to red and back to black makes it impossible to read until it is at it's brightest, which is even harder if you are already in a bright environment and before you can read more than a word or two the error message fades back to black. Any pulsing text (hopefully in a higher contrast colour) should be displayed for longer than it is not displayed, or rather display a blinking icon followed by solid text.

Sorry if this sounds trivial, but the interface is as important as the functionality which it drives.

All the best for 2013.
Chas.


guliciuk

i installed magic lantern, all went fine, started testing the new hdr thing, and after a few shots my camera froze, gave an error, restarted and now it sais i hae low battery and it wont turn on. tryed with 2 different batteries, charged....

any ideeas on what to do?

feureau

I've been taking a lot of HDR and never had this issue. Can you tell us what settings you used?

Try turning on your camera without ML? (or even a card in the slot?)

voltjap

Wow wow weee wow. Thanks for your continuous work! Cheers mate!

Evil Flip

First of all, thanks so much for getting ML running on the 7D. I've been waiting for this ever since I got my 7D and it's truly worth the wait.

Anyhow, I found a little hiccup I might mention. When I put my 7D on powersave (through the Info button option) it starts up again after about 15 minutes. I can't imagine this being a big problem though. BTW is there any difference between putting the camera in this ML powersave mode and switching to non-liveview photomode (except for the mirror staying up)?

Also, the analog iso adjustments (like decreasing it below 100) doesn't seem to do anything (it'll indicate it has changed but the image stays the same). Though since that's not on the list at the top of this treat I assume it's not working yet.

keep up the good work


FotoMaciej

Some issue in audio record:

1. Set Audio Remote Shot ON


2. Go to Audio menu and click Test Beep Sound


Now is not possible to use Audio Remote Shot because the audio release indicator still show "0"


Right and left audio channel are locked on this position:


You can just switch OFF and ON to make it work fine to next beep signal.
C 7D (Magic Lantern) | C 400D (400plus mod + IR MOD) | Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 | Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 | C ex430 II | Nissin 866 Mark II

Pelican

Audio remote shot works fine for me but I used clapping or whistling to activate it.
The only thing I would change it could be more level setting beyond 20.
EOS 7D Mark II, EOS 7D, EOS 5, EOS 100 + lenses (10mm to 300mm), 600EX, 550EX, YN600EX x 3
EOScard, EOS DSLR firmwares, ARMu, NiControl, etc.: http://pel.hu/down

scrax

Quote from: Pelican on December 27, 2012, 10:10:53 PM
Audio remote shot works fine for me but I used clapping or whistling to activate it.
The only thing I would change it could be more level setting beyond 20.
Have you tried also after using the beep function before?

by the way can you explain me a little where are defined
PROP_ARTIST_STRING
PROP_COPYRIGHT_STRING

I'm trying to add them in the 600D too: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=4001.0
I'm using ML2.3 for photography with:
EOS 600DML | EOS 400Dplus | EOS 5D MLbeta5- EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro  - EF-S 17-85mm f4-5.6 IS USM - EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM - 580EXII - OsX, PS, LR, RawTherapee, LightZone -no video experience-

themichael

Let me first add my thanks for ML on the 7D. Love in HDR and the in camera exposure fusion. Going to do more exploring over the next couple of days.

Now for some requests, Can you add an in camera multiple exposure feature similar to Nikon's? Can you enable second curtain sync without having an EX II series flash attached (not holding my breathe on this one)?

And lastly, a bug. I was playing with the focus stack, following the steps on the docs page. I went a bit to far on adjusting the focus with the joystick (20 steps, 10 pics) and the camera buttons stopped responding. The off switch and CF door didn't turn the camera off. Pulling the battery worked. Tried the same steps and got the same result. Tried one more time the next day and just received a focus error message and the camera stopped responding to button pushes. The display/liveview continues to update like normal. I am using the new 40mm pancake.
7D, AE-1P, 4x5 and GAS

beej

Really been enjoying the new features so far.

A question on rack focusing. I'm using a 17-55 2.8 IS, and I'm finding the results of the rack focus to be less than optimal.

So I focus and set this to 0 (to be the end/destination of the rack focus operation).

I then use the scroll wheel to set to, say -20 steps from 0, and perform the rack focus. The rack focus is performed, but never ends up on 0 (ie where the initial focus point is) - it's always short (so in the above example, it would probably end up in visual terms of more like -7 steps from 0, rather than 0. So the end point is always out of focus, rather than in focus.

I'll do some playing, and I understand this is very much lens dependent, but I was wondering what the results are from other people (both with other lenses and also the 17-55) to compare? Is this feature working for you? Does it work for you better with some lenses than others? Certain step sizes? Or is the feature a little bit flaky unless you have amazing lenses..?

I'm just trying to work out how to best get this feature to work for me, or if there is an issue with it, etc?

Edit: More detail.
I've got it working better by increasing the step delay from 10ms to 20ms, step size 2 (or 1 for finer resolution), step wait on. It seems to be hitting the end point more accurately now.

One slightly frustrating thing - when altering the steps to here value with the top scroll wheel, moving it fast (which you kinda have to do with a step size of 1 for it to go anywhere, as you want values of +100 or more) often comes off the parameter (especially if the soft-limit is reached, but it will often come off the parameter without that happening) - and then you are now scrolling fast through the menus. Not only that, but there is no way (I can see) of continuing to adjust the steps to here value without first zeroing it out and starting again. This makes setting up a rack focus operation quite painful, currently.

So - could you check what's happening when moving the top wheel quickly to adjust the steps to here parameter, and stop it exiting adjusting the parameter and flying off into menu scrolling - basically, if you hit the soft-limit, continuing to move the top dial should have no effect, with the value sticking at the soft limit, and the camera shouldn't just exit adjusting the parameter without warning.

And if there could be a way to go back into the steps to here parameter and continue adjusting it without zero-ing it out again first, that would be an extra bonus (though less of an issue if the previous issue can be made a bit more stable.)