Canon 6D / Firmware 1.1.3

Started by coutts, December 16, 2012, 06:19:02 AM

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Levas

1. Can't do anything about the shrinking.
The live view is 1808 pixels wide, it's read from the sensor in that way. So if you record 1280 pixels wide, it just takes the 1280 pixels portion of the total of 1808 wide live view

2. MLV and RAW are both stable, MLV is the newest and is the (only) one which is kept up to date by the magic lantern team. Also MLV has the option to record audio during raw video capture.
So I prefer MLV.

3. In the newest build there are 3 modules for MLV, one for recording MLV, one for sound option, and one for playback MLV.
   If you enable the MLV_play module, you can playback MLV files by selecting them with the filemanager.
Playback isn't at real speed and real resolution, the camera is able to playback at at about 10 frames per second.

About point 1, if you want to have wider resolutions then 1280, you can consider to use an aspect ratio of 2.39.
I'm using aspect ratio 2,39 a lot with 1728 wide resolution, with a fast card (sandisk pro 45MB/s) you can shoot clips with audio, which are 17 seconds in length before the memory buffer is full.
Depends on what you're filming if 17 seconds clip length is enough...

mxma1

Just wanted to stop in and say great job guys! :D

Happy to see so much helpful engagement happening here.

DennisGat

Quote from: Levas on July 21, 2014, 01:17:14 PM
About point 1, if you want to have wider resolutions then 1280, you can consider to use an aspect ratio of 2.39.
I'm using aspect ratio 2,39 a lot with 1728 wide resolution, with a fast card (sandisk pro 45MB/s) you can shoot clips with audio, which are 17 seconds in length before the memory buffer is full.
Depends on what you're filming if 17 seconds clip length is enough...

I tried this (2.39 with 1728) as you suggested with a 64gb 45mb/s card and I can get about 3-5 seconds of footage before frame clipping. Is there another setting I am missing?

Levas

Forgot to say, I use aspect ratio 2.39 and 1728 pixels width with 25p, I live in PAL world (30p will fill up the buffer faster).
But you probably forgot to put on some functions which can be found in the raw video menu (where you also set the aspect ratio and pixel width)
Depending on your build you can see probably two of the following functions, put these "on" for better performance/ bigger memory buffer.

-Memory hack (available in the builds made before july 2014)
-Extra hacks (available in all builds I believe)
-SRM memory (available in the builds made in July 2014)

Sidneywish

Playback is continous in 2.39:1 at 1536x642 at 24fps.

You get a nice image at 1.5K, very filmlike.

DennisGat

Thanks for the info! I will try both these settings.

FlMuPhi198

So just to confirm. The uninstallation will return it to completely like new firmware? No delay in start up? No differences whatsoever?

Audionut


kbeecher

Not sure if this has been addressed yet, but found a fun little mess yesterday out shooting. If you enable long exposure noise reduction from the canon menu it screws up what you see when you use FPS override and looks like a mess, if anything (i usually go down to 1 or less to focus on stars)

Also, when shooting longer exposures the camera processes it after the picture is shot, and takes MUCH longer to view. AKA can't properly use the intervalometer function exactly for long exposure timelapses.

disabling the long exposure noise reduction setting i turned on fixes these. :D

Levas

You're using FPS override AND intervalometer for time lapses ?
I don't get it  ??? FPS override is for video recording and intervalometer is for Phototaking, or are you using Silent pictures ?

The long exposure noise reduction option from the canon menu just takes another picture without opening the shutter, a so called black frame.
So if you're exposure is set to 10 seconds, the camera will take another picture of 10 seconds without opening the shutter( so one picture of 10 seconds, takes 20 seconds...That's why it is taking so long), the data in this black frame is extracted from the first picture.
And if you're using FPS override, it probably sees the black frame as a normal picture, so you're probably ending up with a weird flickering video.

kbeecher

weird. pretty sure i had that turned on, on my t2i and I never had this problem... maybe not tho.

I use FPS override so i can look in live view, and zoom in, and focus on a star. it shows up MUCH brighter, but takes for ever for the camera to react. oh well. best way ive found.

Then just go about my normal picture settings and start the intervelometer.

Levas

ah  :) now I get it, you use FPS override for a brighter more visible live view.
I always forget to use that option, ending up with a dark live view in search for some white points(stars)

Sidneywish

I'm kinda confused, anyone can direct me to raw video crop mode install / configuration for the 6D? I'm guessing this get rid of the video aliasing problem.

Levas

You can press the magnifying glass button on you camera to zoom in, in live view(and then start recording raw video), although framing is not correct, live view shows 5x zoom or 10x zoom image.
The resulting video will be about 3x zoom...

My weapon against most aliasing is developing the raw dng's in RawTherapee (http://www.rawtherapee.com)
In RawTherapee you can choose different demosaicing options, "lmmse" and "amaze" both do a good job of getting rid of most aliasing.

Sidneywish

Wow thanks. I just shot a project in raw with 3 cameras, two 5DIII and one 6D, and I was looking to adjust the 6D shots so that they blend with the 5DIII.

PhilMW

Quote from: Levas on July 23, 2014, 10:28:01 AM
You can press the magnifying glass button on you camera to zoom in, in live view(and then start recording raw video), although framing is not correct, live view shows 5x zoom or 10x zoom image.
The resulting video will be about 3x zoom...

My weapon against most aliasing is developing the raw dng's in RawTherapee (http://www.rawtherapee.com)
In RawTherapee you can choose different demosaicing options, "lmmse" and "amaze" both do a good job of getting rid of most aliasing.

Do you have a specific workflow to get through in RawTherapee? What format you you output to from RT?
Currently using: Canon 6D nightly build

Levas

I'm using RawTherapee 4.0 for mac, version 3 had some troubles with pink highlights for Magic lantern raw dng's.

You got 3 tabs, file browse, Queue and editor tab.
If you're in the editor tab, you get six tabs on the right for developing the picture.
In the raw tab (5th one), you can set the demosaicing method. In most cases I use "lmmse" sometimes I use "Amaze".
Further down you have 2 sliders, one for suppressing false color, depends on your image how high you need it, most times a setting of 2 is enough.

Set the white balance in the color tab (3d tab).
My frames all start out pink, so I first use the tint slider.

Then you go to the exposure tab(first one of the 6).
Click on the neutral button (cause you don't wanna use the "auto levels" button (which is used by default, and causes exposure differences during your frames.)
Set the exposure by using the sliders.

Then go to "Detail tab" (the second tab).
The sharpening amount I set to 100, (which is 250 by default).

And then comes the magic trick, add some, I mean, lots of microcontrast:
Enable microcontrast and use 3x3 matrix.
Put the quantity to 80 and uniformity to 50.
The microcontrast option works best for clean low iso shots.

After this I paste the settings to all dng's from one clip and put them all to the Queue for batch output (in my case 8-bit TIFF's, for further use in DaVinci Resolve)

Some usefull shortkeys:
Ctrl-A = selecting all pictures in the folder
Ctrl-V = paste settings to selected pictures (don't forget to copy the processing profile to the clipboard by using the button available in RawTherapee)
Ctrl-B = Put all selected pictures to the processing Queue (older versions of Raw Therapee had an other shortcut for this, I believe Ctrl-Q)

PhilMW

Thank you. I will have to play around with that.
Currently using: Canon 6D nightly build

Nad

I'm kind an Alien to this. I bought my Canon 6D with 1.1.4 firmware in July 2014. Should I downgrade it to 1.1.2 then follow your steps from this video? I would appreciate if someone help me out here and tell me how can I do that. I have been researching a lot over the Internet but I couldn't find any solution.  :(

Walter Schulz

Go to first page of this thread to access a valid installation procedure.

PhilMW

@Nad
You don't need to go back to 1.1.2, just get 1.1.3 and then you should be good.
Currently using: Canon 6D nightly build

broccoli89

Hi Guys,

So I recently tried to instal ML for my 6D, and I used this tutorial video for instruction; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvK_imr-C7M

However, when I get to step 7, which is the part where i make the card bootable, the eoscard program keeps giving me the error message, "No Zip Found"... what do i do now? it's the last step, and i'm afraid to use my camera at all now, lest i damage or destroy it. i'm at the end of my rope here, PLEASE help!!!  :'( :-[

kbeecher

So I saw on another forum post about running headphones through the AV jack and still keeping the picture up is possible just like the T2i, but on the 6D. When is this going to be put on the nightly build? or why has it not yet? Would of been awesome to use today instead of blindly maintaining audio. :P

substr

Can anyone confirm if this is *normal* behavior?

Using the Bulb Timer, I noticed the exposure value in the image that was taken isn't exactly what was set. For example, I set the Bulb Timer to 10s, after the image was taken and reviewing the image the exposure value at the upper left of the image shows 10"6. I went ahead to M mode (turned off Bulb Timer at this point) and set exposure to 10 seconds to do another test. Reviewing the image shows exactly 10". Thoughts?

The said behavior is somewhat similar to what most external remote/intervalometer gives wherein the exposure value isn't exactly set for taking the image.

Using magiclantern-Nightly.2014Jul18.6D113 on this.

Levas

Quote from: broccoli89 on July 28, 2014, 11:45:03 PM
Hi Guys,
the eoscard program keeps giving me the error message, "No Zip Found"... what do i do now? it's the last step, and i'm afraid to use my camera at all now, lest i damage or destroy it. i'm at the end of my rope here, PLEASE help!!!  :'( :-[

Maybe  try a different version from eoscard ?
Download it again and reinstall ?