Intervalometer with Magic Lantern 2.3 V

[deleted.account.01]

i was thing abotue put this post to Picture section but its more movie ...

I use  Intervalometer from Magic Lantern for make short TimeLaps from last night

its my  third timelaps with MagicLantern and third timelapse ever ..i can say its my one of first ...

i pick some weird shcking while shoting..its weird cus tripod was in stable place and i was stand far from it...

i got two explenations for this ..

first its :some blind bat or some small bird in darknes hit few times tripod
second its : i was have selected some option what i dont knwo abotue it  lol ..

i made small simulation of that tripod moves and i was need to make I had to execute a strong hand movement for make same jump...well its small details why shacking are :

i use  :

Magic Lantern Intervalometer   , Set on 1 second Shoting

Canon Rebel T3i (D600)

18-55 standard lenss kit on    18

4 second exposure

2500 iso

none auto setings..

I thing movie got to muche blue but this is City Aura :/ ..( shots maked in alomst city center ) :/

alsow clouds taking light from ground lights

and jumps in movie :/

and two nasty red pixels :// ( i need to fix it again )

if any one like to say what u thing all comments will be nice to see.. so fell free for full critic

alsow  i got one more TimeLApse.. this one its my second...again short movie..next time ill try made some tihng muche longer..

[Francis]

They look great! Better looking than my first few time lapses. Given the cloud movement, the shakiness might be just from the wind, if it was particularly gusty for a few moments.

[deleted.account.01]

They look great! Better looking than my first few time lapses. Given the cloud movement, the shakiness might be just from the wind, if it was particularly gusty for a few moments.

there was no wind what can move lifs on trees :DD

i thing i just bought lame tripod for soupboxes cameras type  :/ ..
last night same..no wind and i got triple more shacking..so 4 hours again fail

but  i got  another problem..Lenss.. im not sure if this is low quality of tis one what i use ( regular 18.55 lens kit II )
or or.. well .. after some 40 minutes shoting stills vapor water stays on lenses :/ ,, weird cus i remember  my shots from my country where i use to shot analog with alot lenses..  20-400..all none zoom...and none of them take vapor water ..even i taked shots in -20 and i ..they never  take that vapor water when i was shoting outside..and here ?!! Digital and 40 minutes and lol vapor water ..

this is some characteristic of low quality lenss ? or maybe there is some liquid what can protect lenss against this lame vapor water ://

[Francis]

The heat generated by the sensor and battery do increase the chance of condensation. There are some tricks, such as putting the entire camera in a sealed plastic zipper bag while indoors, then taking it outdoors and letting it adjust to temperature, then taking out of bag to avoid initial condensation. If it forming later, some people rubberband or gaffer tape chemical hand warmers to the lens to maintain a similar temp between camera body and lens.

[deleted.account.01]

The heat generated by the sensor and battery do increase the chance of condensation. There are some tricks, such as putting the entire camera in a sealed plastic zipper bag while indoors, then taking it outdoors and letting it adjust to temperature, then taking out of bag to avoid initial condensation. If it forming later, some people rubberband or gaffer tape chemical hand warmers to the lens to maintain a similar temp between camera body and lens.

hmm..there was little frost on low ground ..temperature around  0.. propadly 0 is not good..i was use  in Past  small 1000mm telescopes and this happend ..but in mirors in telescope was have some coool abilty to take al lthat vapor water out after some 1 or 5 miutes ..i was only need to move little  back..( body heat ) ...

first time i used  Blub Focus / Ramp fomr ML with Intervalometer ..

i ting i mess setings up so bad in blub/fR...i not change there muche  and i stay all on this values :

Blub/Focus Ramping
AutoExpoRamp   : Sunrize
MaxRampSpeed  : 0.005 EV/Shot
Man. ExpoRamp  : +0.005 EV/Shot
Man. FocusRamp : Off

i like these option to use in Single Shoting ( no timelapse ) but it looks like its PowerFull PRO tool inSide for making Timelapse where light changing but NOT Dynamic..only slow smoth gently changes..

movie for sure wil lpickup flickering ..im sure abotue  this cus i can see diference in all single frames where they go more bright but after few shots all exposure go down what makes shot more dark than that shot before...

its to sensitive on this values ,, shots are maked in City what can be another point of  my failer..
Place where i take shots are surounded by roads...aboute 200-300 metters around me .and cars make some lights flashing ..os maybe this is reason why sensor switching  exposures so not regular and make it jumps form low to high..
or maybe  i just use wrong values..i dont know..its my first use this option in timelapse..

i need to learn more abotue seting it up ..

one more thing aboute this ...
i was shot in RAW this time ( around 1000 shots )..so its good news ithing cus RAW is so flexible..

This is possible in somway Disable corections what Blub/Focus Ramping made while shoting and back to my setings what i was have selected before Blub/Focus Ramping start corecting ?



Edit :

there is way to switch all ML setings to Deflaut ? ..so if i meake mess with some setings soem another option can bring back all Values to  ``Factory`` deflaut ?
or maybe there is way to make Prest with present setings on ML and save them lets say in Prest 1.
and lets say Prest 0 will bring back all setings to Deflaut ?

[scrax]

1) You can go to Prefs-> config file... and delete it.
2) Not yet