Crop mood - Danne custom tweaks (EOS M)

Started by Danne, December 17, 2023, 07:54:54 AM

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Danne

Looks like kill global draw is set to on. Turn it off in raw video memu I beliwve.

bohus

Quote from: iaburn on August 08, 2024, 08:17:21 AMThe screen is  720x480 (3:2), so the image is a bit distorted, and there is a band at the bottom a bit "off". Nothing that really matters for previewing  :D

Perfect! Thank you! I was concerned it might have been like those non FRTP modes where the preview was
quite different from what you were capturing. As you say, this is zero big deal at all. Thanks!

bohus

Quote from: Danne on August 14, 2024, 05:04:59 AMLooks like kill global draw is set to on. Turn it off in raw video memu I beliwve.

That did it! Earlier I experimented with turning off global draw in another menu, and then I even lost the mini HUD (not sure what to call it) showing buffer health and recording time.

Now at 2160p I get a full HUD with VU meters, which is a nice surprise. Previously the recording would  only last a few seconds with the full HUD display. So this appears to be the best of all worlds - thank you for your zippy help!

ilayya

Guys, can someone help here:
I'm using 5.2K and everything works super fine. Framerate is set to 23.9, shutter 1/50. But sometimes I switch to photo mode, make some photos, switch to video and shutter is changed to 1/125. It happens almost every time and is really annoying :( It happens even if I turn off in photo mode and then boot up in video mode - shutter is set to 1/125. Is there a way to force it stay set to 1/50?

2blackbar

Used latest build today, i had it in 1080 mode, 1768 something resolution in 16:9.
I had issues when i turned on camera sometimes then it displayed code onscreen some error and switched to different framerate from 24 to 30 without my knowledge and resolution was weird, it was 1736x696
  ( the good clips are 1768x976)  so pixels were stretched in mlvapp - the image was very wide and aspect ratio was normal when i desqeezed it to about 4:3... even tho it should record to 16:9 like if aspect ratio was wrong in mlv file, i had to use height stretch 1.67x.

So i think theres a typo somewhere in the code... like it did 1768x976 instead of 1768x696, or something completely different happened.

Ok i can reproduce it, - just keep turning on the camera over and over and it will eventually happen, try with my settings below.
For a split second a code popsup on the screen of the cam during startup and disappears, so , heres the screen... after it pops up - the resolution gets screwed during recording to 969 and fps is 30fps, but in the menu all looks fine - its just during recording that stuff get wonky and so you cant really tell when it will happen if you dont pay attention to startup, when it startsup without this message onscreen, all is fine.


My settings are defaults with changes to : 
presets : HD1080p
raw video ON 1736x696
ratio:16:9
bitdepth:12bit
whitebalance:5200k
sd overclock:240mhz
waveform:small.


I also noticed i cant find globaldraw kill during recording, so my histogram is stil up when i record.
Is it possible to get slower refresh for waveform/historgram so its not so intensive and doesnt trigger that often, maybe it would help and i dont really need it realtime, even 1 refresh per second would be enough.

Ok so i turned cam on for lik 10 times in a row and it didnt happened so iits kinda random and without the screenshot proof it looks like im just talking trash.
Also the code its not always the same code that pops up, sometimes its longer.

Danne

Regs are not always applied correctly. There's a lot of code executed. You vould try andturn off histogram and other heavy global draw settings and see if that helps.

ilayya

I'm using magiclantern-crop_mood.2024Feb19_Custom.EOSM202.zip and it's really great.
But now there is a new file 24FpsFix_02_2024Aug24.EOSM202.zip.
Is it a fixed version of something? Should it be used instead?

2blackbar

I disabled waveform histograms , now sometimes when i record and stop recording then i cant record again cause button does not react, i have to reboot, this does not happen all the time but it defo happens too often.
I think the build is just too unstable, i have to try prev ones.

gabriielangel

I haven't zeroed-in on the issue, but when you switch to one of the 3x3 modes or full rez mode and change settings, you often get issues, such as shutter speed selection of values changing (Different values than either the Standard or Full settings) or the frame rate always reverting to 29.97fps when you restart the camera. The settings are then corrupted and you have to overwrite all the files with the originals to cure it.

As long as I don't switch presets, it works fine and doesn't get corrupted.

If you want to expedite the process, after installing Crop Mood and setting it to your liking; make a backup of all the files on your card, so you can restore directly from those (That way you don't have to change custom buttons, frame rate, shutter speed range selection, etc.)

2blackbar

The biggest issue is that i have now clips with weird resoliution changes with 30fps instead of 24fps and half resolution gone . I never had that before since 2019, and its unpredictable, so much that i just cant use it even for home vids. Its a hassle to find the wrong res vids and export them separately and they look noticeably worse and i dont like 30fps. so until this issue disappears i just cant use latest release.

I was very careful, turned off all onscreen dispays and it still happens, and i have no clue when, the only way you gonna find out is when you will go after recorded video to check if resolution is correct.

Danne

Not sure what build you are using but if using a build from the first post use these setting. Works rock solid over here. If you are using a build coming from my older work just skip that and use Crop mood builds. Also please share print screens of what you are doing settings wise.







iaburn

Hi Danne, I was testing you old crop mode builds and saw the 4K@7fps mode, that I almost forgot that existed!
The new 5K@2fps mode never works for me, makes the camera unresponsive, and I was wondering if it would be possible to add the old 4K mode on your crop mood build. ::)
I currently use the 3K 1:2.35 mode for timelapses, but the old 4K 16:9 was gold for timelapses  <3

Danne

Msybe one day but I have not been in the ML zone for a long time now.

Two things. I recommend the 1x3 Full-Res LV preset. You get full sensor coverage and 14fps live view reading.

The other 1x1 5k preset you are referring to. Try and turning off audio and it should work.

iaburn

For me, the 1x3 modes are ok for video, but when you want high resolution and sharpness, they are not up to the task. They don't look good once stretched.

With the 1x1 5k I tried everything: no sound, reduced fps with the override, change to framing preview, 10bits... But still super unreliable

I'll keep using 3K, or have a card for tinelapses with your old build 😁

Danne

Should possible to reduce the 5k preset and get it more stable.

thinh23.976

Please help! My eos M got a broken rec button so I use the "rec key" in Bilai build to fix it. But I couldn't find that option in Danne tweak. Is that option is still there somewhere or it got deleted?
M fanboy

notthesame

Anyone ever tried using the RC-6 remote control together with the intervalometer in photo mode? I wanted to build a setup for some photogrammetry, where I have 3 EOS M mounted on a monopod at different angles. Then I wanted to use the RC-6 to start the intervalometer.
Unfortunatelly, apparently using the remote leads to the intervalometer using the default 10s timer instead of the 1s timer I set within MagicLanterns Intervalometer. Posting here, because I use latest Danne firmware for my tests. I'm thankfull for any answer.

Walter Schulz

RC-6 has two options: 2 second delay and instant trigger. Have you tried both trigger options?

notthesame

Hello Walter, thank you for taking the time to answer me. Yes, I've found out about the switch, but I just tested again with both settings. Same behaviour with both settings.
In order to enable the remote, I did start up the camera without MagicLantern (by pressing SET during boot). Then I can press the Info button where I can access the setting for the "Drive mode" there I believe I have to select the third icon/option from the left: a timer with a little remote (Description text: Self-timer: 10sec/remote).
Is there another option to enable the remote on the EOS M ? Maybe even somewhere within the magic lantern menu structure?

I've checked the canon manual of course, but didn't found anything. So my theory is, that the timing I set in the Intervalometer somehow gets overridden by this default 10sec timer?


Walter Schulz

I tried:
- Cam Q menu "Self-timer 10sec/remote"
- ML intervalometer:
  Take a pic every 10s
  Start trigger Take a Pic
  Stop after 3 shots.

With trigger set to 2: Delay is 10 seconds.
With trigger set to "dot": No delay.

No delay inside intervalometer settings with "Take a pic".

Will this work for you?

notthesame

Thank you so much for testing!
I believe we might have a slight missunderstanding.
What I wanted to achieve was to trigger the Intervalometer of my 3 cameras at the same time using the remote.
Important: the interval should be set to a very small increment, only 1s, between taking the pictures.

Currently what I get with this setup: the intervalometer counts down 10s, between each picture taken, despite my 1s setting. This only happens when using the drive mode "Self-timer 10sec/remote" setting.
When I have "Self-timer 10sec/remote" enabled, even triggering the intervalometer with the shutter button on the camera leads to 10s intervals instead of the expected 1s interval set in the Magiclantern intervalometer. When I set the "Drive mode" to "Continuous shooting", the 1s intervals are working, when triggering the intervalometer with the cameras shutter button. But of course: the goal is to use the remote, in order to start the intervalometers on all 3 cameras at the same time.

I already looked into older firmwares...same result so far. I also quickly looked into maybe using the "Audio RemoteShot" function of magiclantern...but apparently this is not able to trigger the intervalometer :-[  :)
Also I would not have any hand free to clap...but in the wiki I've read that one could mybe also use mic jack and wire this somehow.

Maybe I'm setting this option "Self-timer 10sec/remote" somehow wrong. Could you tell me exactly what buttons to press to change this setting? I thought i need to start the camera without ML loading (startup using set) and then I can access the menu where I can set the "Drive mode" when pressing the INFO button and tapping the icon on the screen.


Walter Schulz

Use my settings and set "Take a pic every 1s".

You won't be able to use Audio Remote Shot with intervalometer. Wired remote plugged to mic input won't do the trick because it is still using Audio Remote Shot and it has no connection to intervalometer.

Not sure about your troubles with Canon menu access. In photo mode you just have to press INFO button and toggle to Q (Quick Control) menu.

EDIT: For faster communication switch to our discord server (invite above).

notthesame

As far as I can tell, I tested your settings and set "Take a pic every 1s".
My remote is set to "dot" as I don't need any initial delay. But of course I also quickly tested the "2" setting, just to be sure.
But I have to use slightly different workflow to set the drive mode, as I can't access it with "Cam Q menu" and have to use SET outside of Magiclantern.

Can you really confirm that the 1s intervals are working for you when you trigger the intervalometer with the remote?

In your example you had "Take a pic every 10s"...which of course would perfectly hide, the always 10s interval I'm experiencing.

Walter Schulz

There is no black magic involved. If cam is triggered it will use the settings you are using in intervalometer. 1 second to 8 hours in 1 second increments.

Still not getting your menu access problem.

Switch to discord if you want to get this one cornered.

EDIT: But frankly: For photo work I always recommend using lua_fix build and not Bilal's or Danne's race horses for MLV track.

notthesame

Thanks again Walter.
Yes, I would like to corner this one...but I also see that I should not overload this thread with such a photo centric topic  :)
Tomorrow I will test with the lua_fix build, and get back to you on discord if there's still a need.

Update: in case anyone stumbles upon this in the future. The intervalometer on the EOS M does currently not work correctly when triggered with a wireless remote. There is a fixed 10s delay, foreseen by the wizards at Canon whenever the camera is triggered by wireless remote, that would need to get worked around.
In the meantime, a relatively cheap and simple alternative workaround could be to use magiclantern's audio remote shot. Cables, toghether with a passive audio splitter + an old phone/ipod nano that's playing an endless audio loop, with a loud signal every x seconds.