Some results.
I recorded two batches of about 30 clips each. I reviewed Both batches today, so here are my findings:
When adding the hack "Lvface+aewb", using HDMI monitor or not, if I set the shutter fine tune so that I get between 1/46 and 1/48 (a little above 1/46 gives the appropriate blur we're used to, 1/48 seems faster than expected), the value of the shutter jumps to 1/30 as soon as I hit record. It shows in the recorded file, as you see the exposure ramping up within the first 10 frames or so (using other fine tune values will shift the exposure relative to the value).
Putting Shutter fine tune to "off" will keep a steady 1/50.
Using only "Lvface" instead of "Lvface+aewb" fixes this Shutter issue, but 2.8k recording will redline at 12 bit and record about 20 seconds.
So using
only the "Lvface" hack and hdmi monitor, the figures are as follows:
2.8K:
12 bit 23.976 fps, records about 20 seconds.
10 bit 23.976 fps, records continuously, between green and orange light.
No pink or dropped frames, focus pixels can be seen clearly while recording, but are taken care of with mlvapp.
Following Danne's hint about resolution:
14bit 23.976 fps, if I lower the resolution to 2656x1112, I get at least 30 seconds, oscillating between red and orange light.
14bit 23.976 fps, If I lower the resolution to 2608x1092, I get at least 1 minute (Stopped myself on each trial), always in orange light, no red.
2.5K:
Speed Results are the same, but lots of pink frames regardless of the bit depth. even restarting the camera does not fix it. So, not usable with an HDMI monitor for now.
Edit: See Reply#42, it works with a phone and capture dongle in my case (And no pink frames), when connecting the dongle before turning on the phone, and also when powering off the camera after each settings / preset change)5K ana frtp: The results are similar to my previous post (Reply #42), no pink or dropped frames and no focus pixels.
2K: Continuous recording at every bit depth. No corrupt frames.
Out of 60 clips, I got 3 corrupted clip, which would not open (2.8k).
When using the hdmi monitor, when switching presets, the connection to the monitor is often lost. You have to shutdown the camera and it runs fine on restart.
Like I mentioned in the previous post, using the hdmi monitor disables the tap screen dropdown list. So I have to assign the dropdown list to the info button.
But, when pressing info, you have to turn the wheel quickly, because it chooses a preset by itself as soon as you stop spinning the wheel.
Also, I noticed that every preset uses a different center (Those scan different parts of the sensor) and if I use the 2.5K Centered preset as a reference, the presets are often a little to the right, with the 5K preset scanning towards the lower portion of the sensor (Which at least give you a chance to get the eyes in better focus if filming a person when using an older lens).
It would be good to disclose the exact offset figures, as this would allow people to choose the right lens accordingly. Unless you use an ef-m 32mm f1.4 or, to a slightly lesser extent, ef-m 22mm f2; you don't get edge to edge sharpness. So, if you use a Helios or a c-mount lens, you will get uneven bokeh and vignetting, as those vintage lenses get softer and blurrier very quickly as soon as you deviate from the center. (Not too apparent if you do nature shots, but a lot more if you frame a subject off center.)
Zooming also requires reframing, when symmetry is needed. A non technical person will easily overlook those details and will have to learn the hard way, after wondering for hours if they were drunk the day of the shoot
