Danne's crop_rec_4k experiments for EOS M

[ZEEK]

I talk about my monitor settings for the EOS M in this video @9:04

I'm using Dianne's latest June 2021 build. However it doesn't seem to be up on Bitbucket right now.

[IDA_ML]

Nice and very informative video, thanks a lot Zeek.

I have a question.  The camera needs 7,4V for proper operation.  How do you adjust that voltage in your power bank and how do you prevent it from outputing more than 8,4V which could damage your camera?

[ML700D]

Nice and very informative video, thanks a lot Zeek.

I have a question.  The camera needs 7,4V for proper operation.  How do you adjust that voltage in your power bank and how do you prevent it from outputing more than 8,4V which could damage your camera?

I think he use this..(dummy battery) like mine for 700d.

[IDA_ML]

I think he use this..(dummy battery) like mine for 700d.

This means that there is a DC-DC stepup converter (5V to 7,4 V) inside the dummy battery. Possible but I doubt it, for thermal dissipation reasons.  It is not good if it dissipates thermal power inside the camera.  It would be much better if the converter is inside the power bank.  Such variable voltage power banks do exist but I do not know how the output voltage is adjusted at the desired value.

[ML700D]

This means that there is a DC-DC stepup converter (5V to 7,4 V) inside the dummy battery. Possible but I doubt it, for thermal dissipation reasons.  It is not good if it dissipates thermal power inside the camera.  It would be much better if the converter is inside the power bank.  Such variable voltage power banks do exist but I do not know how the output voltage is adjusted at the desired value.

not inside the dummy but inside the usb I think, I tested using voltmeter in the output jack is around 8.4v

[ZEEK]

I use this dummy adapted for the EOS M:
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiG4Mvj5Mj1AhVOJSsKHah4DiAYABANGgJzZg&ae=2&sig=AOD64_1AIceOPJYJJV2Lsdsx3QtPQRg1kQ&ctype=70&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiN-cLj5Mj1AhXj63MBHRT0ApUQwg96BAgBEBA&adurl=
The built-in protective IC of the mini adapter has multiple safety protections to protect the camera from excessive current, overheating and overcharging.

[IDA_ML]

Thanks Zeek, this makes sense.  The DC-DC converter is built inside the hexagonal piece between the powerbank and the dummy. It converts the 5V coming out of the power bank to 8,4V going inside the dummy.  In this way the heat generated by the converter is dissipated outside the camera.  The dummy just contains the regular protection circuit which does not dissipate heat.  Quite clever, indeed.

I built my own external power supply using 2x 18650 lithium ion cells of 3400 mAh capacity each, connected in series for 7,4V output.  I paid 8$ for both.  For the dummy I used the case of an old battery.  I just took out the two damaged cells and connected the protection circuit inside the case with the two LiIon cells via a short cable going through the hole on the battery door.  The whole thing weighs 70 grams and allows at least 9 hours of operation without turning the camera off.  I filled 6 cards of 128 GB each with 1280x2160 footage in that time and still had some power left.  The greatest advantages of this external power supply is that you can minimize the cable length in such manner that the cable does not dangle around and is not in the way during filming and also it is fully compatible with the original EOS-M charger which takes about 5 hours for safe charging.  The full charge voltage is 8,26V and the red indicator in the camera starts blinking at about 7V.  Camera shuts down at 6,2V.    The thermal indicator never showed more than 57 deg. C at room temperature.  In regular life view the EOS-M draws about 400 mA which increases to about 420 mA while recording.  For the 18650 cells these are very relaxed operating conditions, so a battery pack like this should last forever if used in a regular manner, say every day or once in a week.  If, however, you just use your camera a few times a year, battery life will degrade quite quickly. 

[ZEEK]

Interesting 
Sounds like a nice Powerbank, especially @70 Grams! These things are game changer for the EOS M. Just wished they made shorter DC Cables.

[ML700D]

.

[IDA_ML]

Interesting 
Sounds like a nice Powerbank, especially @70 Grams! These things are game changer for the EOS M. Just wished they made shorter DC Cables.

Yes Zeek, I plan to make a small battery holder that attaches to the camera hot shoe.  In this case the cable will go underneath the lens and be directly plugged in into the battery pack holder.  Since it can be very thin and short, it will not be in the way at all.  This will make the system very convenient for hand held and gimbal shooting.   In this way the EOS-M will be the smallest and lightest travel RAW-video camera with independent power supply worldwide.  With a 512 GB card you can film an entire rock concert in 4k, (1280x2160 anamorphic/12bit/24fps - about 2,5 hours continuous recording), without running out of power or card space!  Nice, isn't it?

[Corallaro]

Hi Zeek,

About the problem with external monitor, i made some test based on your video but the only resolution that work properly seems to be the 1080p.
I test with lilliput a5 and also test a cellphone with hdmi/usb converter
The resut is the same....

At 2.5k frtp (that is a resolution that i use) the result as the same of Nibby99.
At this point i try to change something in Canon Menu as the language (i am italian) and video system from PAL to NTSC, and also i change the resolution of recorded video at 720p or less with strange results.

In your eos M wich language, video system, rec resolution you use??
I think to make some random test ...at this point...

Tnx
Giovanni

[Grognard]

@bilal and Danne

I've noticed that 5k anamorphic mode works with fps overdrive enabled (24fps) but not 5kfrtp.
How to explain that ?

Is it the key to also make this work on 5d3?

[ZEEK]

At 2.5k frtp (that is a resolution that i use) the result as the same of Nibby99.
At this point i try to change something in Canon Menu as the language (i am italian) and video system from PAL to NTSC, and I also change the resolution of recorded video at 720p or less with strange results.

Don't record 720p as the results are very bad. 1080 or 5K FRTP should work fine with monitors, select 10 bit. With 2.5K HDMI it will have a small box on the left which is normal as this is showing the correct liveview rather than full liveview with a crop. Don't worry about the glitch at the bottom, as long as you can see the correct liveview framing it will be fine. I've been using this mode a lot.

[jetrotal]

Hello, I just bought an hdmi adaptor to connect my EOSM to my computer. But the device only works on Picture Mode.
If I change the camera to Movie Movie Mode, the screen goes black. Any suggestion on how to display the image on hdmi on Movie mode?

[Walter Schulz]

Sounds like an issue with your device. You can try to connect cam to another HDMI device (AVR, TV set, computer monitor) and check.

[byrd]

[EDIT - fixed] it turns out it was just a problem with the RAW black level (thanks to masc for the help!). I used the repair black level in MLVapp and it was fine.

Hi. I'm looking for a bit of help recovering some files after I may have done something silly. I just tried to record a 2hr timelapse using intervalometer and silent picture, in video mode. It produced an MLV file that's 4.29gb and three files with the same name ending in .M00 (4.29gb) .M01 (4.29gb) and .M02 (1.1gb). The MLV file opens in mlvapp and is fine but seems to be only the green channel, so I am wondering (hoping) the other files contain the red and blue channels? But I don't seem able to open them. Here are my settings:

Video mode
1080p preset
raw video on, 1736x976
Ratio OFF
bit depth OFF
set 25fps off

Intervalometer ON, 2s
Silent picture SIMPLE, MLV

I know it says this works better in photo mode, but I had better luck with doing it in video mode on a test earlier, with intervalometer set to 4s. The only thing I changed this time was setting intervalometer to 2s and that made everything green.

Thanks very much in advance for your help!

[yokashin]

Try to do as I do with Zeek advice.

[kob]

Is there an option for QUICK DELETE of last recorded file?

[kob]

Thanks Zeek, this makes sense.  The DC-DC converter is built inside the hexagonal piece between the powerbank and the dummy. It converts the 5V coming out of the power bank to 8,4V going inside the dummy.  In this way the heat generated by the converter is dissipated outside the camera.  The dummy just contains the regular protection circuit which does not dissipate heat.  Quite clever, indeed.

I built my own external power supply using 2x 18650 lithium ion cells of 3400 mAh capacity each, connected in series for 7,4V output.  I paid 8$ for both.  For the dummy I used the case of an old battery.  I just took out the two damaged cells and connected the protection circuit inside the case with the two LiIon cells via a short cable going through the hole on the battery door.  The whole thing weighs 70 grams and allows at least 9 hours of operation without turning the camera off.  I filled 6 cards of 128 GB each with 1280x2160 footage in that time and still had some power left.  The greatest advantages of this external power supply is that you can minimize the cable length in such manner that the cable does not dangle around and is not in the way during filming and also it is fully compatible with the original EOS-M charger which takes about 5 hours for safe charging.  The full charge voltage is 8,26V and the red indicator in the camera starts blinking at about 7V.  Camera shuts down at 6,2V.    The thermal indicator never showed more than 57 deg. C at room temperature.  In regular life view the EOS-M draws about 400 mA which increases to about 420 mA while recording.  For the 18650 cells these are very relaxed operating conditions, so a battery pack like this should last forever if used in a regular manner, say every day or once in a week.  If, however, you just use your camera a few times a year, battery life will degrade quite quickly.

Thanks for this post, it helped me better understand why my dumbie battery never works.

It powers on, navigate the menu or record and suddenly cuts power. Assumed i bought a faulty one, or a break in the wire,
but the current flow makes more sense.

[Ramick]

Hi  ,

I have been doing some tests with my Eos M for now weeks/months using the Danne’s version and first of all I want to say thanks for the work done, that last version from June is very stable, working very well on Eos M.

I have a suggestion for improvement that I would like to share, I am not sure if it has already been explored before.

Today most of the time I am using the 2.8K 24fps mode, but you guys know, come the question of "how could i get more out of this camera "

I have been trying to increase the resolution with MLVapp or Davinci Resolve but was never really satisfied by the results and stopped using that function.

Recently I started to take it the other way around, instead of using the software to increase the resolution, why not using AI to double the final frame rate of a higher resolution.

I tested the feasibility with 3K/18fps preset (which is working well) with a bit depth set at 10bit, then apply the x2 frame rate on the final video (after Davinci Resolve) and I should say that I am impressed by the result. Can’t really say if the video has been processed through AI (didn’t test on fast moving objects).

Then using the same method, the real UHD out of the camera seems to be possible with a 3840x1634 1:1 12fps for example (increase the resolution/decrease of the fps to stay under the limit).
After being processed the same way it would give a UHD 24fps video.

Would it be possible to add another preset on the list that would then open the door to UHD?

Thanks,

[cedricp]

Hi,
Here's how I made my (poor man) external battery for my EOS-M :


The dummy battery is 3D printed and I use 2 3.7V batteries (18650) from a salvaged notebook power pack (contains 6x18650).
I found the batteries holder on eBay for 4$.

[Skinny]

cool, I want to do the same for 5D2 using the case from an old battery to make the adapter. If you have an access to 3D printer you can print some kind of a holder for the whole thing, and screw it to the bottom of the camera to the tripod mount.

[cedricp]

Good idea, but the battery pack is larger than the camera 

[Danne]

Added a new version:
https://bitbucket.org/Dannephoto/magic-lantern_jip_hop_git/downloads/

Includes these changes:
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=26443.0

And also changed edmac channel which is supposed to have a positive impact on hdmi out. When using hdmi out fix this first.
"To fix that PINK HDMI screen: in ML tab 3, go to 'customized buttons', Disable x3 Crop Toggle and Focus Aid"ZEEK

Also beware that when using "Lvface+aewb" hack it will affect fine-shutter tuning.

According to ZEEK this version will give zero dropped frames for most presets when using hdmi out. If all working ok I´ll replace the other versions to only this.

[anto]

I was a ML user for many years with 5D3 and EOS M following the forum, then I sold it. now I bought again an EOS M but I can't find a way to work with it, only HD 1080 works, the other setting frtp are freeze, no preview, can't even record.