In astrophotography it doesn't matter how dark is the picture....everything will pups up after alignment and stacking.
I am reporting the brief explanation why it is important in astrophotography
http://www.samirkharusi.net/sub-exposures.html"We need to capture that skyfog mountain in a nice, clean fashion on a portion of the histogram that displays good linearity. Its width corresponds to the Poisson statistical noise of any photo-electric signal. The upper end (slope on the right side of the mountain) will also include the effect of bright stars or any bright regions of the fuzzy we are trying to image. We then stack a huge number of frames/subs, i.e. increase the integration time, to narrow this statistical mountain (that square root business) until we reach a stage that we can surgically subtract out the fog and we are left only with our precious image signal pertaining to our faint fuzzy. The aim, therefore is to keep our skyfog mountain unadulterated by any noise lurking at or near the origin of the histogram, in any sub-exposure, in any of the 3 R, G, B channels. Always keep a clear gap between the trailing edge of the skyfog mountain (the beginning of the slope on the left of the mountain) and the origin!How close can you let that skyfog mountain get to the origin? Do not get too greedy. Just because the back-of-camera histogram shows a gap does not imply that you do indeed have a gap in all the 3 RGB channels, especially if you use a logarithmic display for your histogram. So aim for a healthy gap (say, 10% of the X-axis on the back-of-camera histogram), but a zero gap implies that one or 2 of the RGB channels is probably not quite yet detached from the origin."
your Full-screen histogram WIP function will be very useful....I suggest to add some numbers on screen....this will help a lot in the dark.