Dual ISO and ETTR in M mode and Light Meter

Started by russellsnr, July 15, 2017, 11:20:41 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

russellsnr

Hi, I understand about ETTR when it comes to exposure but I use a hand held meter and shoot in Manual mode 99.9% of the time. I also have my meter calibrated to the Camera/s I use 6D/70D so when taking an image outside I am at the tip of the highlight zone without clipping for the camera/s DR.
When using the Dual ISO in this senario I assume that the ETTR available in ML is better left off?
Many Thanks.
Russ

josepvm

If you want to use a hand held meter with Dual ISO, disable Auto-ETTR (or set it to be manually triggered only when you want it, with the "set" button, or a double press in the shutter button). And manually adjust your exposure, according to your hand held meter,  in order to not clip highlights for the lower ISO.  The higher ISO value of DualISO will take care of the shadows.

garry23

@russellsnr

I also used to use an expensive external light meter, until I convinced myself I didn't need it with ML.

I don't know what photography you take, but if you do natural or urban landscapes, then I would suggest using the inbuilt Raw spotmeter.

My bracketing workflow is to exposure for the shadows using the light meter, which tells me in Evs how far I'm off clipping. Once I'm comfortable with my shadow exposure, I'll use ML auto bracketing to capture the optimum number of brackets, i.e. out to a no clipped bracket.

If I'm doing a single exposure, I'll auto ETTR, check tne shadow with the ML spotmeter and decide if I need to envoke dual- ISO.

In both situations, I make use of the ML Raw spotmeter, in Evs.

russellsnr

Thankyou for the replies.
garry23, mostly would use for landscape, where I live (Greece) the differance from sky to shaddow is very extreme most of the time even in the winter months we have strong sunshine so EV is sometimes 3 or 4 differance, I veered away from the HDR way of doing thing a while ago so the DUAL ISO seemed a good way to go, one image via Lightroom/cr2hdr/adjust sliders if required and DONE!!
Again thankyou for the replies.
Russ

garry23

Russ

Be careful at associating the 'HDR post processing look' with exposure bracketing.

The HDR look usually falls out of using tone mapping algorithms: but there are other ways to process an exposure bracket set, eg fusion and layer masks.

If you are taking sunrise and sunset scenes in beautiful Greece, then, if it was me, I wouldn't be mucking about with Dual-ISO, as the scene will likely have high dynamic range.

I would tend to use the workflow I highlighted before, eg:
- Compose;
- Set focus for the scene (look at my Focus Bar script at photography.grayheron.net);
- Use the ML Spotmeter (in Ev mode) to nail the shadow detail shot;
- Use ML Auto bracketing to capture all the remaining images;
- Ingest in Lightroom and process a 32 bit TIFF (and see what it looks like);
- Also try LR/Enfuse (and see what it looks like);
- And then try luminosity masks (LM) in Photoshop and see what they look like - I use various LM plugins, eg TKActions, ADPanel+Pro and RayaPro and Lumenzia.

If you are creating art, it takes time and effort ;-)

Cheers

Garry

russellsnr

Hi, Garry. Looked at your site and the Focus Bar script along with others and afraid that is way over my head, not tech minded and really do not even no how to envoke a script never mind use one. Find the written word hard to follow in that context but show me once and I get it first time.
Anyway thankyou for the help.
Russ

garry23

Russ

Never give up, well at least not too soon  ;)

You have scripts in ML already, just switch on the Lua Module.

I recommend running the Lua fix experimental build.

Then just place my focus bar in the scripts folder.

Then switch it on to auto run.

Done :-)