7D copper shim 'hardware mod'

Started by blitzkrieg666, September 23, 2015, 09:26:25 AM

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blitzkrieg666

Just sharing my little 'hardware mod' on my 7D. Not sure if this is the right channel to post.

Got inspired from http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-4/general/hardmod-nexus-4-investigating-thermal-t2144652 and modding my LG G3 phone proved to be 'cooler' by 3°-4°c.
So why not on my 7D? Warranty is over anyway :D

Follow the steps from: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Canon+EOS+7D+Bent+CF+Pin+Fix-Card+Reader+Replacement/24777
You can skip Steps 1 and 2 as you dont need to remove the access ports/rubber.

There's a lot of air gap in between the Digic processors and logic board shield:


Making sure the shims covers the Digic processors nicely:


Used Arctic Silver 3 thermal paste in between the shims and chips (and in hope that the viscosity of the paste holds it up *fingers crossed*):


Also some thermal paste in between the shims and logic board shield. I polished the copper shims to a mirror finish to maximize surface area, and note the paper folded on the bottom in case the shims slides down it'll 'catch' it:


Haven't done any temperature testing but I'm sure this will help just a wee bit in dissipating heat.
The copper shims is 15mmx15mmx0.5mm and can be easily purchase from eBay. A thicker shim will close the gap between processor and shield even closer but afraid the heavier weight might slide down and muck it up.
Maybe a longer rectangular shim that covers both the Digic processors and supported by the folded paper would be better? Can't seem to find off-the-shelf rectangular copper shims thou.

Feel free to have a say what you guys think.. cheers.

Audionut


g3gg0

to be honest.. i would not use the camera unless you put thermal adhesive on the plates....
even if it looks fitting tightly, it will slide away slowly. somewhen.
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justanothershooter

"note the paper folded on the bottom in case the shims slides down it'll 'catch' it:"

This is terrible. Either affix them properly with thermal adhesive, or be prepared for the inevitable short.

kitor

And isn't it sensor itself that gets hot during recording?
Too many Canon cameras.
If you have a dead R, RP, 250D mainboard (e.g. after camera repair) and want to donate for experiments, I'll cover shipping costs.

blitzkrieg666

So after about a month's trial, I decided to open it up to see how the copper is doing. Low and behold, only the bottom copper slid down while camera was in use and that very paper (see photo) caught it.


The shield:


Cleaned it up with good old isoprophyl alcohol and replaced the paste with 0.5mm thick thermal pads cut to size @ 1.3mm x 1.3mm:


I've upgraded the copper shims to 20X20x1.2mm. Now the copper shims are snugly fit when the shield is closed. Of course i've polished it to a mirror finish on both sides 8):


Also, I noticed there's another heat shield behind the sensor unit and decided to put on another copper there. (Note the step on the shield):



So everything looks like this, with bigger folded paper at the bottom and the sensor copper neatly tucked behind the ribbon.:


The thermal pads are now much more 'sticky' and less copper movement when you nudge it around.
As of now I don't dare to pry open the sensor shield yet, afraid might screw up the plane of focus.

DeafEyeJedi

Excellent progress once again, @blitzkrieg666 -- in fact you got me considering this for my 7D as well one of those days...
5D3.113 | 5D3.123 | EOSM.203 | 7D.203 | 70D.112 | 100D.101 | EOSM2.* | 50D.109

Sapporo

Have you noticed any difference about the pictures or ml video?

blitzkrieg666

Honestly to my naked eye, i don't see any difference in the video/photo.

Anyway did some 'test' (Nightly.2015Aug19.7D203).
In movie mode standby/idle (with Focus Peak, Cropmarks and Histogram), ISO800, 23.976FPS, ambient room temperature @ 29C(84F), SandDisk Extreme(60MB/s) card, and some 3rd party Phottix batt:
Startup temp 30C(86F)
2mins 33C(91F)
3mins 35C(95F)
4mins 37C(98F)
6mins 44C(111F)
After around 10mins~ stabilized at 47C(116F), and the infrequent drop to 44C.
This was the same for both before and after the mod and I had the rubber camera armour on all these while.



Then again the temp readings is from the motherboard and i don't have any external temp reader. But i felt the scroll wheel area to be a tad 'hotter' (due to better dissipation definately). If only i can measure the sensor's temp..


Maybe i should slap on another copper behind the sensor shield. Just for fun :D? What you guys think?