Flight

Started by gML, January 22, 2015, 03:53:24 AM

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gML

Just shot my first Magic Lantern project 35,000 in the air.


Canon 5D iii
50mm
Adobe After Effects for color correction and warp stabilization
Adobe Premiere for editing
FilmConvert plugin for film stock emulation

DeafEyeJedi

Nice. Love the 50 prime.

Tell us which settings did you use within ML and was this shot in RAW as well?

Thanks for sharing @gML
5D3.113 | 5D3.123 | EOSM.203 | 7D.203 | 70D.112 | 100D.101 | EOSM2.* | 50D.109

Canon eos m

Canon 5D Mark III, Gopro Hero Blacks with 3D Casing, A Few Lenses, Adobe CC 2014, MacBook Pro, Windows 8 PC, Lots of Video Rig!

Started Nuke. Loved it but then the 15 day trial ran out. Back to After Effects and loving it :-)

gML

Thanks DeafEyeJedi.

Everything was shot RAW.

Mixture of 1920x1080 and 2560x1072 (2:39:1) on a CF 1066x card at 24fps. I love 2560x1072 by the way. Perfect for capturing both 16:9 and 2:39:1 with the added bonus of tightening up the pixels during scaled down if you are taking your scope footage into a 1920 world.

I feel RAW gives longer record times (20 seconds at 24fps) than MLV in crop mode when going beyond 1920. I am using an August 2014 build. Found the new builds weren't giving me quite as much record time. For shutter speed I realized that there were going to be times of mild turbulence so I actually shot at 1/100 of second to get a sharper image and then in After Effects, I can warp stabilize where there is no noticeable motion blur differences on the turbulent moments.

Lately I have been using a Canon EF-S 10-22mm that I used to use with an old Canon Rebel. For the lens you just pop out the back plastic piece that prevents it from fitting in on full frame camera and boom in crop mode you now have equivalent of a 30mm lens and can go beyond 1920 pixel limit. It looks scary to pop it out but it is very simple. Just used my hand. Only caution, be careful when powering on or off the camera at 10mm as the mirror will gently touch the lens. Nothing bad has happened when I forgotten, by the way. The best way to get a half-way decent "wide lens" in crop mode. The EF-S 10-22mm is fantastically sharp with just a little bit of chromatic aberrations that are easily fixed in post.

DeafEyeJedi

Very well said. I had no idea about using a modified EF-S 10-22 on a 5D3 -- such a tease though! Sounds like it could give a less distortion look than from a 16-35L II that I own.

Yes I've confirmed that RAW recording times are longer than MLV & even longer on 1.1.3 (with latest nightly) than 1.2.3 (which hasn't been updated as of yet).

I definitely love using 3x crop-mode to get 2.5k @ 2:39:1 which gives less aliasing (literally none) and looks marvelous!

I'm assuming you are currently on 1.2.3 with the August build -- correct?

Thanks again @gML [emoji1]
5D3.113 | 5D3.123 | EOSM.203 | 7D.203 | 70D.112 | 100D.101 | EOSM2.* | 50D.109

gML

Actually using 1.1.3. Been wary of switching to 1.2.3 because I thought there were a few features that weren't as mature. What is your take on 1.2.3 versus 1.1.3? Are there better features now on 1.2.3? Is there anything I give up?

The EF-S 10-22mm feels cheap because it is so light from all the plastic but I love the glass. There is a newer 10-18mm http://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/lenses/10-18mm.htmwith Image Stabilization and superior glass from what I have read. Don't know if you can pull out the plastic stopper that prevents it from working on a full-frame camera. Though looks like you can.

gML

Oh, and here is the post that I found that changed my world with using the EF-S 10-22mm that I originally thought I would sell. Glad I didn't.

https://sorenjohansen.wordpress.com/2010/09/03/modifying-the-canon-10-22mm-lens/

DeafEyeJedi

Thanks for sharing the article regarding EF-S 10-22mm...
5D3.113 | 5D3.123 | EOSM.203 | 7D.203 | 70D.112 | 100D.101 | EOSM2.* | 50D.109