Whats up with the Sandisk Extreme Pro 95mb/s 64gb and 600D/T3i????

[emphram]

I ordered a Sandisk Extreme Pro 95mb/s 64gb about a week ago, and it should be arriving between today and tomorrow and now I find out that it has problems with Magic Lantern and the 600D. Does anyone know if this has been fixed in the latest nightly build or functioning workaround?

Does this also happen with 32gb cards?

Thanks in advance.

[Walter Schulz]

http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/install
First install guide. Step1, 3rd point.

[Datadogie]

If it's the problem with loading ML using firmware Simly make the card bootable using EOScard

[emphram]

I had already installed ML with a 32gb, so this is not a first install. The problem I am referring to is the one found on the forums regarding the corruption of a 64gb sd card on rebooting the camera. The problem mentioned here:

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=10399.0

Is this still a problem or has this been fixed?

EDIT:
I tested out the 64gb card by formatting it to exfat and using eoscard on my pc, and so far it seems to be working fine with the latest nightly build. I'm just paranoid it might give me a problem on a long shoot. If anyone can confirm or deny whethere these two factors are a problem, it would be greatly appreciated.

[ereese]

Was it running fine before on a smaller card? Seems to be bug free on 5DIII

[emphram]

It's running now, hadn't realized someone replied. Thanks anyways.

[PaulHarwood856]

     Hello emphram my name is Paul Harwood. I formatted my Sandisk 32 GB Extreme Pro 95 MB/SEC Class 10 UHS as Exfat, with MacBoot for Macintosh, but I had difficulty getting the software on my Transcend 64 GB 30 MB/SEC card about a year ago. EOS Card should be able to format the card as Fat32 (I think this is what Canon uses). From what I read however, Exfat allows bigger file sizes. I always thought the limit was 4 GB, but there is a setting on the 600D for Exfat in raw mode. I still have to test everything out, and am also weary about long shoots like you stated. I think I used a smaller card to install Magic Lantern a year ago, the stable version 2.3, then dragged the files onto the 64 GB Transcend. This was because I couldn't get Macboot to work, but I'm pretty sure EOS works fine. I have since figured out Macboot. There is a tutorial by Clint Boland on Youtube explaining EOS Card on Youtube and the installation process. I hope this is helpful for you. If not, please let me know if you have any other questions. If I experience any problems with Exfat, I will post here. It would be great if you could do the same, that way we can exchange input, since we have the same camera.

     Here is the tutorial. I am aware this is for ML version 2.3, the stable release. After you've installed V2.3, all you have to do is replace the V2.3 files with the nightly build files, put the card back into your camera, and you should be good to go.

Hope all is well!

[emphram]

     Hello emphram my name is Paul Harwood. I formatted my Sandisk 32 GB Extreme Pro 95 MB/SEC Class 10 UHS as Exfat, with MacBoot for Macintosh, but I had difficulty getting the software on my Transcend 64 GB 30 MB/SEC card about a year ago. EOS Card should be able to format the card as Fat32 (I think this is what Canon uses). From what I read however, Exfat allows bigger file sizes. I always thought the limit was 4 GB, but there is a setting on the 600D for Exfat in raw mode. I still have to test everything out, and am also weary about long shoots like you stated. I think I used a smaller card to install Magic Lantern a year ago, the stable version 2.3, then dragged the files onto the 64 GB Transcend. This was because I couldn't get Macboot to work, but I'm pretty sure EOS works fine. I have since figured out Macboot. There is a tutorial by Clint Boland on Youtube explaining EOS Card on Youtube and the installation process. I hope this is helpful for you. If not, please let me know if you have any other questions. If I experience any problems with Exfat, I will post here. It would be great if you could do the same, that way we can exchange input, since we have the same camera.

     Here is the tutorial. I am aware this is for ML version 2.3, the stable release. After you've installed V2.3, all you have to do is replace the V2.3 files with the nightly build files, put the card back into your camera, and you should be good to go.

Hope all is well!

Hi Paul, I appreciate the input. So far I've only done some simple tests in RAW video mode, I'm still uncertain of using it with the small resolution that is supported by this camera. I mainly do h.264 video, and the 4gb file limit is present even when the card is formatted in exfat (unless there is a way to change this). The card has functioned great so far, works fast, no unexpected stops. Do you do RAW video?

[walter_schulz]

and the 4gb file limit is present even when the card is formatted in exfat (unless there is a way to change this).

650D will do h.264 recordings up to 29:59 no matter which file system is used:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=14333.msg138118#msg138118

[PaulHarwood856]

Hi Paul, I appreciate the input. So far I've only done some simple tests in RAW video mode, I'm still uncertain of using it with the small resolution that is supported by this camera. I mainly do h.264 video, and the 4gb file limit is present even when the card is formatted in exfat (unless there is a way to change this). The card has functioned great so far, works fast, no unexpected stops. Do you do RAW video?

     You are welcome Emphram! I'm still experimenting with Exfat, but from what I've read raw recording performs better. From what I've tested so far, I feel it is a great format. There is also an exfat option to choose in the Magic Lantern Nightly Builds menu, which I still need to test. I was able to record 1080p for 29:59 with continuous record. I still need to test 720p 60 fps because I would like to see if I can get to 29:59. I used to be only able to get around 15 minutes. I also haven't found the batteries to wear out, and last just as long as Fat32 formatting. If you are having trouble with missing a couple seconds in between takes, try adding a second camera. Even if it's a cell phone that can record HD, you can use that for just those couple seconds to switch between scenes in post if you are filming an event for example. Also, if you record audio to a separate recorder, you can maintain the same audio throughout, and just sync in post using Plural Eyes, Premiere Pro Creative Cloud, or manually. You can use the cell phone and dslr audio along with separate recorded audio to sync, and then choose what you feel sounds the best, probably the recorder.
     
     I love shooting raw! I'm still getting used to it, and am learning as much as I can about the post production workflow. My recommendation for getting the best resolution is to use a wide angle lens. Luckily I have a 6.5mm fisheye I use for skateboarding, and will be able to take out the distortion with a fisheye lens profile in Adobe Camera Raw. If you have the kit lens, try using it a 18mm, the widest, and see how you make out. This will help when filming events, say on a shoulder rig for less camera shake, and your kit lens might have an image stabilization option which will help as well. You can also zoom in as what's called crop mode. Some Magic Lantern users have claimed this gives better quality, but I find it a bit difficult to work with. When zooming in 5x, you can bump the resolution higher. Setting up the shot is kind of a pain, but this might work well with outside with flowers and insects. If doing macro, you can buy macro extension tubes from Fotodiox on Amazon as well. I would suggest trying different resolutions at different aspect ratios (2:35:1 rather than 16:9 gives a cinematic look, which is great) and see how long you can record. Also, turning off unneeded settings will help extend the record time. You can even try 18 fps or 12 fps to achieve longer record times, or even continuous recording for raw. Recording raw with sound can slow down the best possible resolution for raw recording, and even more with audio override settings. So keeping the sound on automatic helps, and then using say a Zoom H4n or H6 for separate recording to sync later. There are even cables from Sescom that will allow straight audio recording from the Zoom to the camera. There is a Transcend 64 gb Class 10 600x (90 mb/sec) sd card which is the same price as the Sandisk Extreme Pro 32 gb 95 mb/sec Class 10 sd card. I've read and discussed with someone that this works just as well as the Sandisk, and then you have double the space for the same price!

     If you want to record H.264, you can purchase a VAF TXI filter for the T3i. This helps prevents aliasing and moire from being recorded in your video, and also gives better compression, resulting in better quality. You can call Mosaic Engineering and ask them about their filters which have marks on them. They are fully functional, and do not prohibit best possible quality from the new ones. New, the filters run at $295. I spoke with one of the personnel about this.

     I hope this was helpful for you, and please let me know if I didn't explain things clear enough. Always here to help! Hope all is well!

[Walter Schulz]

There is a Transcend 64 gb Class 10 600x (90 mb/sec) sd card which is the same price as the Sandisk Extreme Pro 32 gb 95 mb/sec Class 10 sd card. I've read and discussed with someone that this works just as well as the Sandisk, and then you have double the space for the same price!

Has anyone shown benchmark data? Those I know for this Transcend card will max out at about 40 MByte/s write rate. Quite sufficient with 600D but 650D (and up)/EOS M/6D/70D might suffer.

[emphram]

     You are welcome Emphram! I'm still experimenting with Exfat, but from what I've read raw recording performs better. From what I've tested so far, I feel it is a great format. There is also an exfat option to choose in the Magic Lantern Nightly Builds menu, which I still need to test. I was able to record 1080p for 29:59 with continuous record. I still need to test 720p 60 fps because I would like to see if I can get to 29:59. I used to be only able to get around 15 minutes. I also haven't found the batteries to wear out, and last just as long as Fat32 formatting. If you are having trouble with missing a couple seconds in between takes, try adding a second camera. Even if it's a cell phone that can record HD, you can use that for just those couple seconds to switch between scenes in post if you are filming an event for example. Also, if you record audio to a separate recorder, you can maintain the same audio throughout, and just sync in post using Plural Eyes, Premiere Pro Creative Cloud, or manually. You can use the cell phone and dslr audio along with separate recorded audio to sync, and then choose what you feel sounds the best, probably the recorder.
     
     I love shooting raw! I'm still getting used to it, and am learning as much as I can about the post production workflow. My recommendation for getting the best resolution is to use a wide angle lens. Luckily I have a 6.5mm fisheye I use for skateboarding, and will be able to take out the distortion with a fisheye lens profile in Adobe Camera Raw. If you have the kit lens, try using it a 18mm, the widest, and see how you make out. This will help when filming events, say on a shoulder rig for less camera shake, and your kit lens might have an image stabilization option which will help as well. You can also zoom in as what's called crop mode. Some Magic Lantern users have claimed this gives better quality, but I find it a bit difficult to work with. When zooming in 5x, you can bump the resolution higher. Setting up the shot is kind of a pain, but this might work well with outside with flowers and insects. If doing macro, you can buy macro extension tubes from Fotodiox on Amazon as well. I would suggest trying different resolutions at different aspect ratios (2:35:1 rather than 16:9 gives a cinematic look, which is great) and see how long you can record. Also, turning off unneeded settings will help extend the record time. You can even try 18 fps or 12 fps to achieve longer record times, or even continuous recording for raw. Recording raw with sound can slow down the best possible resolution for raw recording, and even more with audio override settings. So keeping the sound on automatic helps, and then using say a Zoom H4n or H6 for separate recording to sync later. There are even cables from Sescom that will allow straight audio recording from the Zoom to the camera. There is a Transcend 64 gb Class 10 600x (90 mb/sec) sd card which is the same price as the Sandisk Extreme Pro 32 gb 95 mb/sec Class 10 sd card. I've read and discussed with someone that this works just as well as the Sandisk, and then you have double the space for the same price!

     If you want to record H.264, you can purchase a VAF TXI filter for the T3i. This helps prevents aliasing and moire from being recorded in your video, and also gives better compression, resulting in better quality. You can call Mosaic Engineering and ask them about their filters which have marks on them. They are fully functional, and do not prohibit best possible quality from the new ones. New, the filters run at $295. I spoke with one of the personnel about this.

     I hope this was helpful for you, and please let me know if I didn't explain things clear enough. Always here to help! Hope all is well!

The problem with raw that I have is the following:
Noise is a lot more visible (especially in low light, and I mostly work in low light, and have to use high iso, 1600, 2500).
Aliasing is alot more visible (anyone else have this problem? I think using it in 3x crop mode the problem goes away, but I can't use 3X crop all the time).
Chromatic abberation is a lot more visible (but easy to fix in adobe camera raw).
Still confused by workflow (mainly because of lack of progress).
Need to get farther away from subject to get same composition (I work in a lot of cramped spaces, sometimes it just isn't possible to get farther away from  the subject).
Lack of money to buy wider / faster lens (most lenses that would help improve my shots are not within my financial reach, I don't do video full time, my full time job is web dev and so far it's been supplying my turtle slow acquisition of equipment, skills and experience).

I'd much rather have the 650D or 700D for raw at 720p, that would be much easier to work with in POST, but again, not enough funds. I barely receieved a light kit today, I wish there were some online video work I could from here that would help me further my acquisition, but so far nothing has come my way.

[PaulHarwood856]

Hello Emphram. I have experienced issues with raw as well, but enjoy troubleshooting the best methods. It is frustrating, I totally understand that. I haven't used it in work environment yet, so I can't even imagine. I do have a few suggestions that might help you. Money is also an obstacle for me, so I'll try to keep that in mind with suggestions.

I came across a software that would greatly improve raw workflow starting in Adobe camera raw. This software helps with high ISOs like 3200. So you might want to check this out. Here is the link: http://www.dxo.com/us/photography/photo-software/dxo-opticspro/prices

I haven't experienced aliasing yet in raw, but I have with chromatic aberrations. The pink and green pixels right? Would love to know how you fix that in Adobe Camera Raw. The only solution I've found so far that is quick is removing dead pixels through sensor cleaning. Not sure if that applies to raw video, but it worked. Here is the link demonstrating the exact process:

Also there are VAF TXI filters you can purchase through Mosaic Engineering. These I believe are just for H.264 1080p, and would be bad for photography. But, the H.264 compression is better, thus better quality, and no moire and aliasing as well. They are expensive, but if you call them they can sell you ones with few marks on them. This does not affect what the filters do whatsoever, just a cheaper price. I was the only bidder for a VAF 60D filter off Ebay, so I got it for a cheap price. Then, I found out it wouldn't fit the T3i when they called me back, and they offered to recut the filter to be a TXI for a nominal fee. Just an example of how cooperative they are. They are a very busy company, and have been backed up because of the snow, but they will call you back. Here is the link: http://www.mosaicengineering.com/about-us/contact.html

There are a few workflows on Youtube that might help you get the ball rolling. I still need to experiment more, but from all the videos I've watched, these seem to be legitimate. Here are the links:

I still need to experiment with raw at night, but maybe more lighting? Is the H.264 compression worse as far as noise, or better?

There is an optimization for low light for fps override. Maybe put into 640 x 480 video mode, and use fps override with low light optimization? The light kit should help you too.

I totally understand about the 600D bottleneck 21 mb/sec issue, and am frustrated with that. You can try using the kit lens at 18mm, that seemed to help for me. I have a 6.5mm fisheye I've been experimenting with, but will have to remove the distortion in Adobe Camera Raw through a lens profile. This fits a lot into the frame, and lens aren't too bad in price. Just search Rokinon 8mm, although I have Opteka. They are apparently the same glass, Samyang, Opteka, and Rokinon. Yeah I feel if I had a 7D with a CF card I might have better luck. But man that 5D Mark III looks so good at 1080p raw. So expensive though. Should go down in price with the new 5D's though. But yeah out of my price range overall. You can also try using an aspect ratio like 2:35:1 and bump up 960 x 540 to around 720p. Although it can be difficult to get continuous recording, I have had some success. Also, when using sound raw can be difficult. That 's where the Zoom recorders can come handy. I use the 5x zoom, is 3x zoom better? I always get confused in the differences except one is 5 and one is 3. Also you can try 18 fps instead of 23.976. Not too different, but pans might be difficult. Could optimize for high jello in fps override. Another method is to use 12 fps, and recreate the frames using Twixtor, slow motion.

One last thing. Check out this website. http://www.vision-color.com/free-stuff/ There is a Camera Profile, (like Adobe Standard, those options in Adobe Camera Raw) to insert into Adobe Camera Raw and Lightroom. There are also LUTS on this website, and picture styles, and other helpful editing tools for raw and H.264 compressed videos. In the link there are free downloads, and the Vision Log for Camera Raw is there.

I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any other difficulties. I'll try to help as best I can! Hope all is well.