Full-resolution silent pictures (silent.mo)

[keepersdungeon]

Hello,
Been trying the full resolution silent pictures for the 1st time and I've got few questions that I need some help with.
*1st @a1ex said in one of the comments that we can read the dng files if I remember well, but I wasn't able to do so even if the module was activated. I'm probably doing something wrong.
*I couldn't make it work with intervalometer, any help would be great!  And also there was something that I didn't get well Alex advise us to do 10-15 sec of interval coz it's slow to save the photo in dng, but it doesn't take that long it takes between 2-3 seconds (Canon 6d) is it for security? The way I tried it is taking one picture after another manual by pressing the shutter twice whenever I get black screen... It that ok?
Thanks in advance for ur help

[Walter Schulz]

*1st @a1ex said in one of the comments that we can read the dng files if I remember well, but I wasn't able to do so even if the module was activated. I'm probably doing something wrong.

Link to a1ex' comment would be just fine. I have no idea what you are trying to do. Please explain in detail.

*I couldn't make it work with intervalometer, any help would be great!  And also there was something that I didn't get well Alex advise us to do 10-15 sec of interval coz it's slow to save the photo in dng, but it doesn't take that long it takes between 2-3 seconds (Canon 6d) is it for security? The way I tried it is taking one picture after another manual by pressing the shutter twice whenever I get black screen... It that ok?

Which settings do you use for intervalometer? By default Intervalometer and FRSP are configured to use the same trigger (half press shutter) which won't work that well (or at all). Try using "Leave menu" Intervalometer trigger instead.

[keepersdungeon]

Which settings do you use for intervalometer? By default Intervalometer and FRSP are configured to use the same trigger (half press shutter) which won't work that well (or at all). Try using "Leave menu" Intervalometer trigger instead.

Great Yeah that worked perfectly! Thank you

Link to a1ex' comment would be just fine. I have no idea what you are trying to do. Please explain in detail.

I meant if we wanna see the dng files we took, is it possible to visualize them in file manager?

[Walter Schulz]

MLV only AFAIK.

[keepersdungeon]

MLV only AFAIK.

Yeah that's what I thought. Found the post from a1ex

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12523.msg162777.msg#162777

[keepersdungeon]

MLV only AFAIK.

Ah it worked it just takes a lot of time to load it.
Anws thanks for ur help Walter

[Dionisgr]

Good day! I have a small question! When shooting silent pictures image badly overexposed. But the question is If it's an image directly from the sensor then on the picture, no pink dots focus 650D. To remove not very convenient, But the sun only at f/22 and 1/4000 shutter, which is not very convenient as the chapel for the 650d. Is there any ways to solve this inconvenience?!

[Datadogie]

I think the best solution is a variable ND filter.

[Ottoga]

@Dionisgr

Below are notes that I have made for myself with regard to FRSP. They work well enough for me so that I don't have to relearn the basics whenever I decide to use this function.
Also a google search will list some useful tutorial videos done by other ML users.

(F)ull (R)esolution (S)ilent (P)ictures

Notes
--------------------------
Used to take full resolution pictures without actuating the cameras' mechanical shutter mechanism. Excellent for time lapse photography using the advanced intervalometer

Only suitable for shutter speeds of 1/30 second or slower.

Exposure is a gradient i.e.: darker at the top to brighter at the bottom. This may be beneficial where there is a bright sky. Can be fixed easily using a gradient filter in Photoshop or similar application.

Capturing images into an MLV format file will require additional post processing steps vs individual DNG files.



Pre-requisites
--------------------------
A variable neutral density filter
A tripod or similar sturdy camera mount


Camera  Settings
--------------------------

Camera Mode Dial:         set to M
Shutter Speed:               1/30s or slower
Aperture:                        As required for desired depth of field
ETTR:                             Off
Dual_ISO:                      Off
Live-View:                       Enabled
FRSP Module:                 Enabled
         Silent Mode:          Full-res
         Slit-Scan mode:     Top-->Bottom (default, probably not relevant for FRSP)
         File Format:            DNG for individual STILL images
                                       MLV to capture images into a raw MLV video file

Lens Setting
--------------------------
Auto Focus Switch:          Set to (M)anual
Stability Control:              Off
V/Neutral Density Filter:   Attached and adjusted as necessary to obtain the correct exposure.
                                        As close to 0.0ev and no clipping as possible (as per histogram post visible post shot).

Process
---------------------------
Frame the subject as required.
Via the joystick.
Toggle the square focus box over the main object to be in focus. Use 5x/10x zoom to aid in establishing a correct focus via the manual focus ring on the lens.
Take some experimental shots and after each, adjust the ND filter until the histogram displays as close to 0.0ev and zero clipping as possible.
Set the intervalometer as desired. Activated upon exiting the ML menus. Remember to allow time for the image to be saved when determining the image frequency e.g.: exposure time + 1 second minimum.
If using the advance key frames, more thought will have to go into the time between shots settings if the exposure time time is lengthened.

To assist with flicker removal in time-lapses try enabling the Post Deflicker function.

Hope it helped.

[Dionisgr]

@Ottoga
 ;)Thank you so much!

[Licaon_Kter]

If you read some pages behind you'll see tha some lenses don't actually close the aperture and only shoot at max aperture ( say if it can do f/2 and you setup f8, when it takes the picture it will be at f/2), hence overexposure.

Do test by looking at the lens to see if it actually closes as it should, say test with f/22.

[Dionisgr]

These tests with the aperture I had. Like all showed the same even if you close the aperture and open the contact lens! ND 4 filter sorry one.

[Greg]

It may be that related to electric shutter :

Code: [Select]

ShootCaptu:ff07ba7c:93:03: EShutCapture
ShootCaptu:00070d90:00:00: *** SCSEshutState: (0) --3--> (1)          ff07ce98 (x=781128 z=0 t=0)
ShootCaptu:ff07ced0:93:03: scsCapReadyEshut
ShootCaptu:00070f48:00:00: *** RegisterHead1InterruptHandler(0x0, 0xff07ce54 "EshutterDone(%d)", &"ShootCapture"), from ff07cf04
**INTERRUP:ff07ce78:93:03: EshutterDone(15925)
ShootCaptu:00070d90:00:00: *** SCSEshutState: (1) --12--> (2)          ff07d1c8 (x=781128 z=0 t=0)
ShootCaptu:ff07d200:93:03: scsEshutDone
ShootCaptu:00070d90:00:00: *** SCSEshutState: (2) --13--> (4)          ff07d2a0 (x=781128 z=0 t=0)
To force the camera to work in this mode :

Code: [Select]

*(uint8_t*)(job + 0x64 + 0x24) = 1;
*(uint8_t*)(job + 0x64 + 0x25) = 1;
Exposure looks the same gradient is slightly stronger.

[bobbyshots2]

I ran into a issue recently with doing timelapse on ML using Silent pictures feature to MLV.
I specifically use this feature as to not wear out my shutter and it reduces flicker. Its brilliant!
I use the 5dmarkIII firmware 1.2.3 I set my exposure then run the intervolameter feature.
It seems there is a coding error w/1.2.3 running the latest build. because the exposure automatically changes and the images is over exposure.
by a lot! resulting in a unusuable image.

I downgraded the firmware to 1.1.3 and use the most current ml build. and i cnat reproduce the issue. which leads me to believe there is something up with that  ML build.
The reason i bring it up is sometimes i use an external recorder so i need the HDMI output that 1.2.3 offers.
 If this isnt your area of expertise if you could help me get this to the right hands thatll be great.

Thanks!

[dmilligan]

Read the first post (esp. the "Limitations" section).
What shutter speed did you use?
Were you shooting the same scene with the same lighting with 1.1.3 and 1.2.3?

[Licaon_Kter]

Any new idea regarding the "broken" lenses that don't actually trigger the correct apperture in FRSP?

[milank]

Try 0xff085b14
If this does not work, try 0xff885b14

How exactly did you reach this idea?
Is the offset 0x800000 general for all cameras?

[milank]

OK let's continue with 5D3.113. Based on the above description where to look:

ff14aab0:    e28f2f86    add   r2, pc, #536   ; ff14acd0: (42736373)  *"scsBulbEnd"
ff14aab4:    e20000ff    and   r0, r0, #255   ; 0xff
ff14aab8:    e3a01003    mov   r1, #3
ff14aabc:    eb3aec33    bl   loc_5b90
ff14aac0:    e51f0460    ldr   r0, [pc, #-1120]   ; ff14a668: (00025280)
ff14aac4:    e3a01001    mov   r1, #1
ff14aac8:    e5801014    str   r1, [r0, #20]

and

ff1bf440:    e28f20dc    add   r2, pc, #220   ; ff1bf524: (435f4146)  *"FA_CaptureTestImage(hJob:%#lx)"
...
ff1bf4b8:    e51f1168    ldr   r1, [pc, #-360]   ; ff1bf358: (00004e20)

I already tried the following with no success:

        bulb_end_addr = 0x25294;
        capture_err_time_addr = 0xff1bf358;   // or 0xff9bf358
        frsp_tv_addr = 0x64; // or 0x78 as indicated by A1ex for 60D

BTW memory locations in the code look prety similar to 60D.111
Any feedback what could be wrong?

[Greg]

5D3.123

Code: [Select]

bulb_end_addr -> 0x25190 + 0x14 = 0x251A4
capture_err_time_addr -> 0xFF1C1FACfrsp_tv_addr -> finding in the ROM may take some more time, try this - http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12523.msg168625#msg168625

I do not have a Canon camera and that is why I can't focus on further development.

[milank]

Is anybody successful with dedicated BULB dial?
Silent module in fullres seems to be active only in shooting_mode == SHOOTMODE_M

[Greg]

Code: [Select]

---
if (shooting_mode != SHOOTMODE_M)
{
    error_msg = "Manual (M) mode is required.";
    goto err;
}

+++
if (shooting_mode != SHOOTMODE_M && shooting_mode != SHOOTMODE_BULB)
{
    error_msg = "Manual (M) or Bulb (B) mode is required.";
    goto err;
}


[Nightstone]

Hi all... just started playing with this on a 7d this week. Great feature. I'm doing time lapse with it. My question is what is the maximum lens focal length folks are able to use at 1/30 with a good tripod?

My 17-55 works excellent as does my 100mm macro. My super sharp 400mm F5.6 did not work too well at 1/30. Focus is off just enough to bug me. Speaking of bugs... A gnat farting near my 400mm at 1/30 I think would cause blur.

Also wanted to add i'm able to do 6s intervals with lexar 800x ( 120mbs ).  Was getting 6-8 on 533x. So this is real usable.

Thanks for ML and all its great features...
NS

[Walter Schulz]

A good tripod standing on a non-vibrating piece of ground without disturbance by wind will pretty much be stable forever (almost).
Maybe you should evaluate another tripod or add some piece to support and stabilize your lens.
Feininger been there and done this: http://66.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lbzy6qdAf21qcqt7m.jpg

[IBIRRU]

Dear all,
is it possible to use FRSP bulb mode with EOS 700D?

I need up to 5 minutes exp time for astrophotography

I'm able to compile but I don't know if the actual code work with this model.

Thanks a lot for your hard job.

[josepvm]

Dear all,
is it possible to use FRSP bulb mode with EOS 700D?

Yes (probably), but "capture_err_time_addr" and "bulb_end_addr" addresses need to be found for 700D, disassembling a ROM dump from your camera.

See:

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12523.msg168467#msg168467
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12523.msg168553#msg168553

And:  Tutorial: finding stubs