I can advise you, but you probably won't like my advice.
First of all, most anamorphic prime lenses are only available as PL mount, and cost many times the cost of your camera.
Most of the anamorphic adapters available are projection lens overlays that add a lot of bulk to the camera, and need to be (in most cases) to be focused separately from your prime lenses. Because many of these anamorphic adapters actually sit on top of your existing glass, they cause heavy vignetting on a full frame sensor unless you use focal lengths of 100mm and up (in some cases you might be able to get away with an 85mm, but you will get some vignetting).
The idea of having a metal ring sit directly on top of my expensive glass is also not a welcome thing.
If what I just told you doesn't necessarily detract you from shooting anamorphic, I can tell you that I have set up my .raw recording resolution to the highest vertical resolution that the 5D3 can handle which is 1920X1288. Unfortunately I can't get this resolution to work in .mlv, only .raw and only with really fast cards that actually perform as advertised.
By shooting at almost 4:3 aspect ratio, you can de-squeeze your footage in post to a resolution of about 3551X1288 which is fairly impressive. You could also go the other way around and end up with a 1920X700-ish image. It won't quite be the 2.35:1 ratio that we all know and love, but it's close enough and you can always crop it in post.
IMHO, anamorphic shooting is a relic of a different era. While I enjoyed my experiments with it, and sunk a few hundred $ into the idea, I ultimately came out with the conclusion that it's just not practical. If you want a cinematic 2:35 ratio, you can always crop in post. If you want the higher resolution, I would advise shooting on a GH4 or Blackmagic at 4K and then crop in post.
If you're still undeterred, I'll sell you my anamorphic lens and mounting adapter for what I paid for it. ;-)