I know that the sd card has nothing to do with exposure...however I was referring to my other issue with extremely low resolution and nasty looking dng files, which I thought could be related to a corrupt sd card or something.
If the card was corrupt, you wouldn't get anything at all.
So for instance, the live view image could look really well exposed, however, the YUV data is not a correct representation of the true exposure
I think the problem is that he doesn't understand
why the YUV data is incorrect, or the exposure appears brighter on camera screen and darker on the computer. There is a very good reason, that is not completely obvious to newbies, so I'll take the time to explain it to him:
Silent picture is just a frame grab of the LV data, basically a single still frame of a video feed. You should expect the low resolution, that is what you get for not actually using the shutter. LV doesn't use the whole sensor (until you take a 'normal' photo, which actually stops LV, takes a normal full res photo and then goes back to LV). LV data is only really for display on screen or hdmi monitor so the resolution isn't all that great compared to the native resolution of the sensor. Also, the actual exposure length is limited to 1/fps (theoretically, in reality it's actually even a little shorter -> additional time is spent to readout the sensor, reset the sensels, etc.), which might be shorter than what you're doing with the real shutter. In other words, if you use a shutter speed longer than 1/fps, the camera 'fakes' what the image 'would' look like by digitally boosting the exposure, making the image nosier. You can't take 1/8s exposures 30 times in 1s can you? The workaround is to use fps override, slow down the LV framerate and use the 'low light' mode.
EDIT:
since silent picture + intervalometer and raw_rec + fps override are essentially the same thing anyway, you might consider using raw_rec + fps override, rather than silent picture. It should actually make things a little easier on you.