Canon 1100D / T3

Started by a1ex, June 14, 2012, 04:50:54 PM

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alband

Given the bulb ramping a try and it seems to be working. Pretty dull grey weather here though, so can't test whether it is "ramping" correctly. It did the calibration though and started taking the intervaled shots, so looks promising.

The motion detection still has the image mis-aligned but that wasn't meant to be fixed yet was it? Will it planned to be fixed in the future or is it not worth it given the motion detection technically works.

Thanks, can't wait to use these things in anger :)
David.

kabeza

Quote from: nanomad on December 02, 2012, 11:04:45 PM
Since the 1100D is MY camera (as opposed to the 650D lent me by the team) I'll keep providing updates and fixes (although most of them come from the main ML tree since the 1100D is now officially supported)

;D  ;)  Very glad to see the 1100D port is not dead and more glad to know it is officially supported. Thanks!

kainpower

good evening, I found 2 errors, work with ML nightly Jan. 25:

1) The sound and focus icons are not displayed correctly. I understand that is produced by the low resolution of the LCD. Can you solve?





2) When trying to format a SD, gives this error






nanomad

Thanks, let's see if we can fix it easily
EOS 1100D | EOS 650 (No, I didn't forget the D) | Ye Olde Canon EF Lenses ('87): 50 f/1.8 - 28 f/2.8 - 70-210 f/4 | EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 | Metz 36 AF-5

tomyoda

Tell please, what now the most actual version for EOS-1100D 18-55 IS II
In what version least errors.
Functions on landscape shooting are necessary to me basically, function blow \noise = foto is especially necessary

Thanks!


Excuse for my English

nanomad

There are no "stabler" builds for the 1100D. The nightly builds contain the most up to date code
EOS 1100D | EOS 650 (No, I didn't forget the D) | Ye Olde Canon EF Lenses ('87): 50 f/1.8 - 28 f/2.8 - 70-210 f/4 | EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 | Metz 36 AF-5

tomyoda

nanomad, ok

aha)) there it is necessary to press artfully)) hurrah!


How to remove ml?
format card/download original 105.fir/install?

thanks!

nanomad

Re-run the firmware update you used to install magiclantern, follow the instructions to disable the bootflag then do a low level format of your card from the camera
EOS 1100D | EOS 650 (No, I didn't forget the D) | Ye Olde Canon EF Lenses ('87): 50 f/1.8 - 28 f/2.8 - 70-210 f/4 | EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 | Metz 36 AF-5

vdentello

I'm still unable to use timelapse ramping, also, it crashed when i tried to run it.
Had to remove the battery to make it turn off.
And, when i checked, camera had reached 38 deg. C, is it fine? (i tried to take a screenshot, but, it failed and had to remove battery)

I also got those today with night build:

ASSERT: FALSE
at Memory\Memory.c:188, task cls_task
lv:1 mode:3


Magic Lantern version : v2.3.NEXT.2013Jan27.1100D105
Mercurial changeset   : 64e55f572bf9 (unified) tip
Built on 2013-01-27 03:03:17 by [email protected].
Free Memory  : 346K + 285K

ASSERT: 0
at Memory\Memory.c:568, task run_test
lv:0 mode:3


Magic Lantern version : v2.3.NEXT.2013Jan27.1100D105
Mercurial changeset   : 64e55f572bf9 (unified) tip
Built on 2013-01-27 03:03:17 by [email protected].
Free Memory  : 346K + 339K


a1ex

Some workarounds:
- disable HDMI support (saves 170K only 55K, not worth the effort)
- replace AllocateMemory with malloc wherever possible (saves 50-200K)  [DONE]

Tomorrow's nightly should behave a bit better, let me know how much free RAM you have.

Other workarounds: disable waveform, vectorscope and cropmarks.

fufuheo

Hi! I installed magic lantern to be able to set manual exposure in video mode using exposure overrides.
However,i noticed a problem when setting custom aperture. The camera says that the aperture has been set correctly but the difference in light and DOF is not as big as it should be. The difference between aperture 3.5-22 looks like the difference beetween 3.5 and 5 (without exposure overrides) I wonder is this a bug? If not please tell me why it happens and how i fix it. Thanks :-)
1100D, EOSM, EF-M 18-55 IS STM EF 75-300 f/4-5.6 II USM, EF 50mm f/1.8

tomyoda

There were some more questions:
1. How correctly to update nightly build?
I should remove and establish completely all on the new? Or it is necessary to rewrite only files on top of the old?

2. Whether possibility on 1100d will sometime begin shooting by means of a sound?

3. What temperature is considered normal 30с, 50с, 70с...???

thanks.

Very much it was pleasant: it Follow Focus, is a pity that is not present autolock focus and handlock focus!)
But I have already learnt a finger to disconnect an auto focus before shooting and to include back after shutter descent))

Has still found interesting application for Follow Focus+intervalometer:
For example we need to be photographed against mountains, and nearby who is not present that it to make...
By means of an auto focus we are focused on a proper place, Follow Focus focus on the necessary position is tightened very precisely, we include intervalometer, we go on a proper place and we wait shot))

Sorry for my English.

marcoind

Hi
I'm new in ML and because my 1100D is my only DSLR camera i don't know if what i experiment is a miss understanding/setup from my side or bug.

I give try to timlapse ramping. It work at the end but with a lot of flickering.
For the calibration process sometime it was ok sometime not. it took me a while to understand that i should select from live view a part of the scene with good contrast, otherwise the calibration go in loop and never stop. I did all my test with smooth ramping.
I set up the ref picture for midtone 50%. I don't understand how i can setup the midtone,highlight and shadow from different pictures (bkt for example)

I'm little bit confused with the timelapse ramping submenu.
-What happen if i select everything (auto exporamp,Manexporamp,manfocusramp)
- Does the manexporamp overwrite the autoexporamp?
- can i use the man exporamp with the manfocusramp?
-Is the manfocusramp is linked with the focusendpoint of the focus menu?
-When should i use LRT instead of smooth ramping ?

I try as well to bracket my shot while using timelapse ramping, it works but don't forget to setup the number of frame you want to bracket. if you leave it in autodetect you'll never have the same number of bkt  per shot. it start with 3 after a while (because of light change) he take 4 or 5 etc... So if you want to post process with enfuse or other TM tool you should have the same number of bkt (sorry i don't use linux and can't use the Bash script made from ML).

At the end of my test the best result i had was by using ADV.Bracketing with 5 bkt per shot in AV mode with the intervalometer. The result was much smoother and much less flickering.

I'm as well confused  with the focus menu I don't get how to fix the start and end point of the focus (do i have to go to LV and back to menu?).
Do you know where i can get a good tutorial about follow focus, rack focus and stack focus? The online ML doc is little bit light....

I Try as well the motion detection feature, it work perfectly at night for lightning.

Sorry for all that questionws, but i'm using ML like crasy for the next 3 daysand i love it.
Thanks to all the team for this fantastic job.

marcoind

I finally manage to get focus stack working. There is a strange behavior with it.  i focus on the start point and then use the focus end point menu to setup my ending point with the wheel, When i run the focus stack it reversing the stack starting with my starting focus point. Let say that i'm focusing first in front of the subject and set up the end point 10 step behind, then when i run the stack the camera start with the first focus point but instead of going forward to the next focus point it goes backward. To bypass that problem i have to refocus my subject to the ending focus point of the stack and the the camera finish to the starting focus point. It's not easy to guess in live view if my new focus point match with the ending point of the ML Stack...

alband

Think I've found a couple of bugs.

1. When shooting with auto-HDR. If you previously viewed images in grid view (zoomed out twice), the auto HDR routine seems to try to meter the whole 9 images, which leads it to take far too many (possibly indefinitely). To recreate: cold start, take a few pictures if the card is empty, press play to view them, zoom out twice (if not already) so you view 9 at once, then set up an auto HDR image, it will take pictures pretty much indefinitely. I need to turn off to get out of it. If you press play and zoom in twice, so as to view images one by one, then try and auto HDR image, it works.

2. I'm not sure about this one, but it seems to be repeatable. If you use bulb ramping with image quality set to JPG LARGE (smooth), it doesn't seem to change the exposure. It just takes photo after photo, even if they are completely blown out, or black. However, if I switch to shooting in just RAW, it works fine. If this isn't a bug, but is just how it's meant to be, it's very limiting, because it reduces the number of possible images in a single time laps by a factor of four. On an 8GB card, that means only about 30 seconds at 30fps.

Still loving ML and hope these things can be easily ironed out.

Thanks to the ML team :)

a1ex

1. you need to display only one image

2. does it also happen with auto HDR?

alband

1. Could it be set to work out if one image is being displayed and then change it or warn if necessary? It could test whether there is a black grid is present in the displayed image, or it could simply zoom out many times then zoom in twice, which would guarantee it's displaying only one image. It would only need to do that during the first test. Subsequent tests would be the same. It's probably not the most urgent or important thing, but it would be nice for a final "perfect" version.

2. No, auto HDR seems to be unaffected. I just tried and it worked with JPG large.

Thanks

a1ex

Can you (or anyone else) record a video showing bug #2? I need to see the exact timing of events.

Arcanemon

Hi, first of all thanks to Nanomad & A1ex & all the team behind Magic Lantern for this wonderful software.
The second, I got the same problem that  fufuheo mentions above. When I change the aperture with exp.override on it doesn't change at all, Av values in the right always stayed between 2.9 and 8. It only happens when I'm using the exp.override in video mode, in the other modes the change of the aperture is fine.
Also in the video mode, when I set the f to a low value f36 for example and I focus to highlight the picture starts to flick, and become dark in some moments and then return to bright again, it seems that the camera tries to set the f correctly.

My 1100D is an spanish one with firmware 1.0.5, I 'm using the Nightly build of Dec 02.
The only lenses that I got is the  Canon EFS 18-55mm f3.5-f5.6.

Thank you

Arcanemon

Hi, the flickering that I was mentioning above is the same that FluidMovementMovies experienced, but I got only this when I set the f below f5.6
Quote from: FluidMovementMovies on January 07, 2013, 02:39:46 PM
Hi Nanomad,
(sorry for my bad english)

I have tried "magiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2013Jan03.60D.550D.600D.50D.500D.5D2.1100D" nightly build in my 1100D and
this is what happened:


You talked about this issue before in this forum, but I don't know if it was solved.
My lenses are Canon 18-55 III. Please, tell me how to remove the error.

Thanks.

nanomad

Update to the latest nightly and report back
EOS 1100D | EOS 650 (No, I didn't forget the D) | Ye Olde Canon EF Lenses ('87): 50 f/1.8 - 28 f/2.8 - 70-210 f/4 | EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 | Metz 36 AF-5

Arcanemon

Hi!
Thanks for your fast answer Nanomad
I updated to the last night build. And I still have the same problem.
This time (in Video Mode) I set the lens to 18mm with f3.5 in the begin, then I changed the f to 22 and move the camera into the sunlight, this time the flickering was bigger than previously and the motor of the camera started to make noise, opening and closing the diagram.
Later I move the lens to 55mm of focal lenght and set the f to 36, the flickering stopped and the noise too, but the picture was too bright and there were a shallow DOF.
After a few moments, and with camera in the same conditions (55m and f36, sunlight) I tried to autofocus, and I noticed that camera really close the diagram of the lens during the focus, but when it finished the camera outputs again a bright picture.

Thanks and I hope that has been helpful

aliendrome

awesome job guys...!! just installed ML on my 1100D and it works fine...!! (so far)
would like to know the chances of changing the video resolution to :
a) downsize small 640x480 (or similar sized) videos
b) upsized 1080p

thanks again for the great work you guys are doing, & i wish i could contribute somehow but am handicapped with no knowledge of programming etc...!! :(

regards...

typh23

I just installed ML on my 1100d

Sadly I came for the audio settings and shocked that I couldn't find the analog gain where i can reduce the hiss sound of the cam

Is their something wrong with mine or is it still in the process?  :'(

nanomad

I fiddled with audio stuff for a bit and come to the conclusion that Canon already did their best with this crappy chip. Turn down analog gain and you can't hear anything. I may put some research into it after I'm done with the 650D
EOS 1100D | EOS 650 (No, I didn't forget the D) | Ye Olde Canon EF Lenses ('87): 50 f/1.8 - 28 f/2.8 - 70-210 f/4 | EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 | Metz 36 AF-5