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Messages - Skinny

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General Chat / Re: Help me fixing Canon 50mm 1.8 II Lens
« on: July 20, 2020, 01:32:26 PM »
Maybe you should check all solder joints (on chips, etc) and ribbon cables inside the lens? It could be a loose connection/cold solder

General Help Q&A / Re: Why I can´t increase resolution
« on: July 05, 2020, 09:24:07 AM »
I mean in my files, your dng is ok.. I'm going to test other FPS settings today, will attach DNG files later

ok.. so,
29.97 fps and below is completely normal, only 31 fps gets black border. soooo just stay away from 31 and everything will be fine. cool.

here are some DNGs:
frame from a 24 fps sequence, no black border

frame shot with 31 fps, black border is present

General Help Q&A / Re: Why I can´t increase resolution
« on: July 04, 2020, 03:00:29 PM »
Hmm.... But I saw black border...

So i did some tests, found that you won't get black border with 24 (23.976) fps, but will get it if push fps to max, 31.055..

@2blackbar I've noticed this behavior in regular cr2 photos, when switched from 550d to 5d2. But for my taste, 5d2 photos looks more natural, and 550d have some magenta cast to them..

But in video mode you can use 360-degree shutter speed, and this will give you a very smooth and good-looking timelapse. With intervalometer, there is a time when the frame is being saved, and the camera basically waits, so it is not perfect.. at least I think so.

Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon 100D / SL1
« on: May 14, 2020, 10:35:03 AM »
@Wlad81 as a suggestion, you can shoot most of it in fps override, with 1-2 fps. This would instantly make a timelapse and save a lot of space. Make sure you use 360-degree shutter speed for smooth motion, although you will probably need an ND filter for this in daylight.

General Help Q&A / Re: Why I can´t increase resolution
« on: May 12, 2020, 02:02:07 PM »
Yeah, they are on the right side of the screen... I didn't even notice them :) I used a warp stabilizer on almost everything that was shot with this build so far, and it cuts the picture a bit. Since most stabilization (hand shake, etc.) occurs vertically, the side edges are cut off and never enter the frame. Therefore, I didn't notice them..

This is interesting by the way, since it could make sense to increase the vertical resolution, to provide a margin for stabilization

General Help Q&A / Re: Why I can´t increase resolution
« on: May 12, 2020, 11:09:57 AM »
I sometimes use this build with 5D2: magiclantern-raw_video_10bit_12bit.2019Mar24.5D2212
it's in experiments - 10/12 bit raw video

and it has 1880 resolution. what drawbacks does it have? I think it works well, it has 10/12 bits, you can rewiev the footage, delete it, record again... which is very important for someone with 16gb cf card :D

It was actually very cool. I thought there would be much more noise at that high ISO. What did you use for noise reduction?

I also use 5D2 now, and I noticed that you can get significantly less noise in the shadows if you shoot at a higher ISO and then lower the exposure in MLVapp by -1 for example. Of course, the dynamic range is lost, but sometimes it's ok..

Is it limited to 480p 4:3 aspect ratio?

General Help Q&A / Re: External audio issue with 5D Mark II
« on: March 19, 2020, 05:57:33 PM »
If the camera sees the DC resistance of the connected microphone, as when applying power to the microphone, then connecting a capacitor in the signal path would help to cut off the direct current and this would give an almost infinite DC resistance.

Although in the synthesizer output most likely have a capacitor..

Share Your Photos / Re: Extreme ETTR example
« on: January 16, 2020, 12:23:20 PM »
Guys, if I understand correctly, the whole point is, for example, we need to raise the shadows a little bit. But they are not clipped or something.

And we have two options, to increase them digitally, or to use higher iso for the shadows. The second method is analog, and it doesn't rely on the A/D converter resolution.
Another thing is that the dynamic range of the camera is more than enough to apply a little digital gain in the shadows...

I don’t think that we will see any difference in the noise. But it can be in the tonal resolution.
The correct test would be to shoot a smooth gradient in the shadows and try to make it brighter.. Who knows..

@Ilia3101 :D :D I didn't think about that :) I mean... you know.. skip every 2 and write 2, or what needs to be done, then same with lines..  :D

@reddeercity, would it be possible to make something like 5.6k but write only every second pixel to CF (or read only every second pixel, I don't know) so we would have a full sensor image with a ~2.8k resolution?
I think it would be almost free of aliasing when converted to 1080p in post, very low-noise and cinematic.. and it would save the card space and speed and everything, while still being full-frame..

But I don't know if this is technically possible at all :)

General Help Q&A / Re: Permanent mirror lockup with EOS 500D/T1i?
« on: January 08, 2020, 12:30:24 PM »
I don't know about 500D, but I had... up to 16 seconds with silent pictures on 550D, if I remember correctly.

You can get an SD card reader for $1

Share Your Photos / Re: Extreme ETTR example
« on: January 08, 2020, 09:58:04 AM »
I thought about it. But without direct comparisons, nothing will be clear... And maybe you need to use less noisy values for the second iso, 800 for example. Since the color resolution in the shadows depends on the noise directly, at least I think so..

General Help Q&A / Re: Updated firmware to 1.1.2 and can’t install ML
« on: January 06, 2020, 11:15:57 AM »
You can download the archive with 1.1.1 firmware from the official page of the ML installation instructions..
(1. Make sure you are running Canon firmware 1.1.1.)
It’s very easy to do

Sorry if I asked too many questions, or something. I just spent a lot of time to figure out how to do it right.
And I am very grateful for all the work and these builds. It breathes new life into this old camera :)

New 5.6k 16:9 works perfectly. full-frame 5.6k RAW video... This is just amazing

I am using the latest build now, I managed to get a preview.
- I choose the "ML Gray" preview option
- Only the RAW module is activated
- I press the zoom x5 button (!)
- Now I immediately activate crop_rec 48p.
And the preview works. But if I update the live view or click something else - everything will fall into a black screen.

In the same way, I can choose 3x1 anamorphic instead of 48p, (the whole procedure needs to be done from the beginning) and the preview will work if I don't press the "play" button or "zoom" or something else....

@cinematic interesting, I have the same problem but with crop_rec, not with dual iso. You could try to cycle trough the INFO button to unlock the screen and record something. In my case it works, although the liveview is black…

Sorry missed your question .
did you read this and try ?  Reply #933 plus I don't know the build date you are using or any other information , so with out at I can't help .
I tried this of course. And I tried all the builds starting July 5, 2019.
I notice some difference by the way. In your video, when you turn on the camera, you see a preview in black and white. And I see the preview as a regular video, although raw is on. And when crop-rec is turned on, in some modes I can’t get out of the x5 zoom mode...
Also, my “decrease” button does not work, even without ML, I have to scroll through x10 zoom. Although it works when viewing a photo, I can zoom in and out there. I don’t know if it’s normal or not..
Maybe there are different versions of 5d2? Like different revisions or something?
I tried to reset the camera settings, no difference..
And my camera never gives high resolution through HDMI on any ML builds, official nightly, or any others, it’s always VGA..

As for the new preset.. 5.6k is just awesome. The amount of detail is just phenomenal, now I really want it to work at 30 fps or, better 60 :D Of course I know it's impossible :) Anyway this is just an awesome build! Wow.

Although, it seems the frame is far from center. And it would be great to be able to change the FPS. Usually I use 1...2 fps and sometimes 0.33 for timelapses at 360 degrees shutter. 4 fps should be good for a motorized slider, but too fast for a timelapse..

The video of the guys arguing not to use log is very contrasty. Not my style. See typical footage from Alexa or RED and here is your reference point. At least for me.
I understand what you mean. I also don’t really like too contrasty video.. The point is to get what you want right in the camera. If this means less contrast, or neutral profiles - so be it. The less adjustments in post - the more natural the result will be... at least it seems so.

On the other hand, EOS R uses a very high bit rate, as far as I know. Maybe they even adjusted the settings for shooting in LOG, so maybe everything is completely ok..

General Chat / Re: Mirrorless 5D
« on: January 04, 2020, 10:45:41 PM »
I have this one Helios-33 "cine" lens - the smallest 35mm f2.0 lens I have ever seen, it's very nice on EOS M and probably even better on full frame.
You know... people say this lens will only work for a crop sensor. Well this is logical, it was originally for a 35mm video camera, where the film is oriented vertically..

General Chat / Re: Mirrorless 5D
« on: January 04, 2020, 09:34:19 PM »
When I got the first manual lens in my life, I couldn’t wait until the M42 adapter arrives from China. I just took a piece of PVC pipe, some copper wire, and a lot of hot glue  :D and made my adapter in 15 minutes. it was NOT parallel, at all, but it worked quite well it was enough for most of the scenes. Honestly, there was almost no difference compared to the factory adapter.

So, of course, it is quite possible.. but... Can I ask which lens do you want to use so much, which is worth the risk of ruining a camera? :D

But what about all this "stop shooting log"?

I think this makes some sense..
At least I see no reason to use log in low-contrast scenes where nothing is lost and doesn't clip anyway.

I don’t have a real log-capable camera, but from all the experiments with lowering the contrast and cinestyle-log presets, I got only one thing - terrible midtones.
99% of people then throw LUT on top and get more or less something, but it turns out to be very flat and lifeless.. and this is because the color information is already irretrievably lost, because we use only 8 bits and also h264. Midtones that contain all the juice in the picture actually lose half their color resolution.

Well, these are just my discoveries from personal experience. There are entire articles on this subject, but I'm not really worried about the slightly clipped dark areas or something, but the colors especially the skintones makes a big difference.

I can be completely wrong by the way, I'm not a professional  :)
The comparison is nevertheless quite interesting, and the views are very beautiful. It would be interesting to compare on something with smoother gradients or people in the frame.

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