Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Skinny

Pages: 1 ... 5 6 [7] 8 9
Raw Video Postprocessing / Re: UGLY clipping samples
« on: February 02, 2021, 05:26:10 PM »
Sounds great!
I failed :) They have light-blue LEDs in rgb matrix, and they seems to look OK under any condition... I haven't discovered anything suspicious.

This shouldn't happen with a mechanical shutter - but need to double-check.
I'll check it next time, interesting though. I know how ADCs works in general (SAR ADCs and so on), and a lot about electronics... But photo and video world is kind of new to me. If only I had more time to study everything.. probably need another life :D

Raw Video Postprocessing / Re: UGLY clipping samples
« on: February 02, 2021, 01:17:44 PM »
Thanks guys!

That's the "black sun" effect - see e.g.:
- p.31
- p.3
Wow, interesting links. I kind of knew about this phenomenon, but never thought it could happen so easily on a "pro" camera. And it isn't black on my clips..

Reducing the white level works, but it seems like I'm loosing some highlight details this way. The easiest way for me (for now) is to mask it away in post, since it is always surrounded by some blank area, masking is relatively easy.
I haven't tried Resolve yet, I'm using MLVApp -> Premiere, for now..

For some reason it is very easy to get this blown-out sun effect, this example was shot on relatively cloudy day, it was already evening and sunset, not a lot of light... In a day time, I get this artefact even not on the sun, but in the bright sky. Unfortunately I already deleted MLVs with bright sky example...

It would be nice if "highlight reconstruction" in MLV App could fix this, somehow.. but I think it's a little bit offtopic.

We have this new RGB LED spotlights in a park, I'm gonna take a walk and shoot some clips today, will try to catch this negative-blue effect. :)

Raw Video Postprocessing / Re: UGLY clipping samples
« on: February 02, 2021, 08:00:39 AM »
Sometimes I get this ugly pink area if the highlights clipped really hard (like on the sun, for example) even when "highlight reconstruction" is on..

This is how it looks (click for full size):

One-frame mlv and the preset I used:

It is clearly visible even with the default MLV App settings, and if you bring down the highlights and turn on reconstruction it becomes really obvious.
I used 5D2 and 12 bits.

Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon 5D Mark II / 5D2
« on: January 26, 2021, 09:59:27 AM »
So what crops are we talking about with these resolutions?
For now, you have two options that works reasonably well with 5D2.. I can describe it in a few words.

First option - to record using full sensor, so you will get the full-frame look. The resolution in this mode is 1880 in width, so it is slightly less than 1920, but it is not a problem at all, and most older cameras don't shoot really in 1920 natively, sometimes they do much larger upscale, you won't even notice this small 40px upscale.
You can shoot up to 30/31 fps with this mode, and there is another preset for slo-mo, where you can shoot using 48 fps, but the resolution will be limited in height, 1880x744. which is still cool and cinematic. And it is RAW, so it upscales really good.

This mode is called 3x3 and although it uses the full-frame, it has some drawbacks. To read the full sensor area, it uses pixel binning and line skipping, and it produces aliasing. Sometimes it is very noticeble, sometimes not. This is the reason why many people prefer vintage lens and shoot wide open, it helps a lot with aliasing. Native h.264 (.mov files) from camera uses this mode also.

And there is another option - shoot 1:1 in a crop mode. It doesn't skip any pixels, so there is no aliasing, but the camera is too slow to record the whole 5.6k sensor at 24 fps, so there is a preset 2784x1160 24fps, and you can upcsale it to 4k or downscale to 1080p, and it will look great.

BUT. It will use only center of the sensor, so you will get a crop. And it is about 2x crop. The sensor is 5,6k and you recording only 2,7k. So you will probably need some wide-angle lens because of that 2x crop. And this mode is only 24fps, and you also need a very fast CF card for this, the file sizes are bigger, and you need faster PC to process them. And this mode is less stable, you can get crashes sometimes.

There are some other modes but they are even less stable. And there is also 5632x3124 @ 3.8fps which uses almost the whole sensor, and it looks absolutely fantastic, but it eats cardspace like crazy :D

What can I say about the quality... I had sony a-37, and the difference is night and day. RAW video is fantastic, it can look like a photo. But you'll have to learn how to use it properly, and it takes A LOT MORE TIME to shoot and process raw clips. I warned you!

5D2 also doesn't have any image stabilization! It could be difficult to shoot handheld after Sony.

And if you have money for 5D3, definitely go for 5D3.

Personally I mostly use 3x3 mode, it's just more convenient and simple to use, and my CF card is not that big and fast... And to fight aliasing I use vintage lenses wide open. And they vignettes a lot, have distorted edges... So it is very vintage look, but you can color-grade it very deeply, push the shadows a lot, and so on. Sometimes there is still too much aliasing, so I discard some footage sometimes..
I think you just have to embrace it as it is, no 4k but who needs that 4k anyway? It's RAW and it's awesome. I really enjoy this whole process of filming with raw, although processing it and stabilizing everything in post takes ages on my old laptop. But it's so cool anyway, I'm just really happy with it :)

General Help Q&A / Re: 5D Mark2 Slowmotion
« on: January 20, 2021, 11:55:30 PM »
You can shoot 48fps max by now, and slow it down 2 times with something like twixtor or optic flow... this way you will get a result like it was shot in 96 fps. Sometimes it would work, sometimes not.
If there is a lot of fast motion in a frame, then twixtor won't help. But even then, if you only need two seconds of slow-motion, then you can probably get away with it, just select the part without artifacts, it could work even if it was a very dynamic scene.

It's very interesting! How did you know that the problem was the EDID handshake? I have 5D2 which outputs only 480p

well.. what about winter use? :D I don't believe someone would really change the shutter button.. and I am totally against all touchscreens, it's just a consumer thing to save a few $ by not using real mechanical buttons.

Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon 5D Mark II / 5D2
« on: December 21, 2020, 03:58:56 PM »
hmm.. very interesting. what build are you using? any special camera settings?

Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon 5D Mark II / 5D2
« on: December 21, 2020, 12:01:46 PM »
Some monitors show information in the menu, mine is showing 720x480p and a message "use 1920x1200 for best experience".

You can also tell by the size of pixels that they are not 1080p, they are much larger. And there is an option "force VGA" which should switch to 480p resolution, if it looks exactly the same, then it is 480p all the time..

I don't have any capture card unfortunately, but I've tried two monitors.. all the same.

Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon 5D Mark II / 5D2
« on: December 19, 2020, 12:15:42 PM »
@lambertcolson have you tried connecting via hdmi? I tried various builds and settings, but can get only 480p from 5D2. And "force vga" doesn't do anything...

I encountered this problem with dark frames about a year ago, but completely forgot about it... It's great that this bug being fixed!

Ilia told me to register on github and report a bug, but I never did that... First, my laptop died, and I didn't shoot more stars then. But not because of a bug or anything, but because of a fact that stars don't look good in 3x3 mode - they disappear periodically. At that time I was experimenting with other things, another camera.. It was probably very unprofessional, for which I apologize.

Anyway, you guys are great, thank you for all the work you have done! Maybe more people will shoot stars now.

crop_rec and derived builds / Re: Danne's crop_rec_4k experiments for EOS M
« on: December 14, 2020, 03:54:20 PM »
Hi guys! I have one theory about overclocking.... do you know why exactly card fails? I mean, if someone with oscilloscope can watch the signal on SD pins, maybe clock edges are not strong enough, or data-edges...
sometimes, in digital electronics, waveform could be improved if you add pull-up or pull-down resistors, they could be installed in the microSD to SD adapter for example.

I can't check this myself because I only have 5D2 and 550D, but just had this idea right now, who knows, maybe it is something useful, or maybe not. Maybe card fails because it cannot complete write cycle in time, physical flash technology limitation, and there is nothing we can do. ALTHOUGH.... maybe under/over-voltage could affect write times... I think it's interesting.

It could be somewhat tricky... try first start in 3.5k with 5x zoom, make sure everything is ok. then switch to crop-mode "off" (and 5x zoom still active), make sure the preview is working, and then select 48fps. If you still don't get preview, switch again to "off" with 5x zoom, and then back to 48.. try it couple of times, it should work.. maybe it could be done easier, I don't know.

And make sure selected type of preview is "auto"

@pyffi yes, it is possible.

you need to download this ML build from december:

then, download new
and place it into "modules"

then download new
and also place it into modules

and finally download
and add it too.

All those links are from the first post.
This way you'll get all latest features.. Except the 5k build, which can only be used separately.

Do I need to install (download ML files onto card, go through camera menu to update firmware) for each CF card?
well you can use a program called EOScard, I use it all the time. Copy ML files to the card, launch this program and click ML, save. done. no need to go through camera update process.

General Help Q&A / Re: Canon 700d 1.1.5 3th party flash?
« on: October 17, 2020, 01:30:38 PM »
You can try Yongnuo YN-622C, even one unit is enough.
It's a cheap transmitter, but that's not the point. You can connect your flash on top of it. It tricks the camera like it's a Canon flash. But I'm not sure if it will work with 700D. It works it with 550D, so you need to check the compatibility..

It works better than ML hack, I've tried both. It is very convinient and reliable way to use studio flashes (connect their transmitter on top of yn-622)

Done :)
Awesome!! Thank you so much! It's a really big usability improvement for this build

Forum and Website / Re: Downloading the ML for 5D MARK II
« on: September 30, 2020, 05:26:48 PM »
If you only want to shoot photos, use Nightly.2018Jul03.5D2212, it is very stable from my expirience, we used 5D2 on critical photoshoots with this build and never had any problems.

Share Your Videos / Re: Canon t2i (550D) ML Raw Video Test
« on: September 11, 2020, 05:18:22 PM »
I remember someone tested 10 bits with t2i, but it was unstable or something, and there is no build available right now...

Share Your Videos / Re: Canon t2i (550D) ML Raw Video Test
« on: September 10, 2020, 05:16:06 PM »
well, I think this camera doesn't benefit much from raw video.... I tried that, could get about 10-12 seconds with maximum resolution in 3x3, and it is somewhat ok... it's useable. but I always get a lot of red noise in the shadows, even with 100 iso. While I can use iso 400-800 for video with regular .mov... so I've decided it's not worth it.

I guess it means we have to report if everything is working as expected.. I usually download and test everything new for 5d2

General Chat / Re: Just a thought - Magic Lantern is still relevant
« on: July 25, 2020, 01:50:06 PM »
You can get 5d2 for, say, $800, add some vintage manual lens and here you go, full-frame raw video. Of course it's relevant, it's actually very cool :)

I know two photographers who use mainly manual lenses, because of the character and look, contrast, etc.. They use ML with "zoom on half-shutter" and 5x disabled (to get x10), and always get perfect sharp pictures. It's almost as easy as auto-focus. As far as I know, this option is exclusive to ML.

Hi guys... one question about sharpening.. As I understand, if I resize a video when exporting, MLVApp add sharpening before resizing? So it's better to sharpen later in premiere for example?

General Chat / Re: Help me fixing Canon 50mm 1.8 II Lens
« on: July 23, 2020, 08:16:25 AM »
sure, no problems :)

General Chat / Re: Help me fixing Canon 50mm 1.8 II Lens
« on: July 21, 2020, 10:43:55 AM »
Well, it could be difficult to spot a broken solder connection, sometimes only reflow everything suspicious can fix it... Depending on your skills, I would advise you to check signals with oscilloscope or logic analyzer to see if the camera is actually trying to speak with electronics, and so on.

Pages: 1 ... 5 6 [7] 8 9