Messages

Hey Pelican,

Welcome. I'm currently updating the documentation and added a screenshot of EOS card in the install guide.
http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/install

The third party software section in downloads is not ready yet and there are more and more program candidates now.
Maybe I need to make some sections there.

It's a nice example. And it is pretty soft. In my experience the crop zoom requires a very sharp lens. I use crop zoom with macro lens only. Besides that softness comes from the video mode. If you do this with photo timelapse and resize it properly you get better quality and resolution.

Very nice work Pedro.
It's time to add a music video category. I'll look for a quiet moment to add it.

Hey Alex,

Welcome!

I'd like to try but I don't have a MAC.
Instead I can provide you with plenty test footage
http://hdr.glogger.mobi/explore.php

This is one I shot last week.
http://hdr.glogger.mobi/watch.php?v=M2CvngoX9

Hi Daz,

It is a very representative example and shows what photographers can do with ML.
Thanks

looks nice. But the picture size is too small for me to really enjoy. If you have those on flickr, I can add them to the gallery.

Nice use of the time lapse feature. I'll add it to the cinema

I have a Rode videomic and I used it only once with the 'dead cat' and had a low signal as well. It was for my entry of "One Day on Earth". It was very very cold and windy and the dead cat didn't help much. I had to do some serious audio editing to make it somewhat presentable. Anyway the staff of this event, wanted to have my footage for their feature movie. So it's not that bad. I normally don't use continuous music but in this case it did a great job distracting the viewer from listening to the wind noise. If you don't listen to what's been said, you listen to the music. And the wind noise added just more mood. The result is far from perfect, but hey what can you do in just 7 hours.

Normally I just use the internal Canon mic. I think it's pretty good for interviews. Well not if you need to isolate a voice from a crowd. Then I'd use a wireless Lavalier mic. I also run a Zoom h1 next to my camera as backup or for recording background sounds. I sync the audio in Adobe Premiere by zooming in the audio track and match the waveform visually

Hi tin2tin,

Welcome. I think it's a good idea to add equipment to the "using magic lantern" section. Because a lot of functions work with equipment like monitors and also lenses. The third party software can be part of the post workflow. Maybe add some subsections there. I'll discuss it with the others.

And off topic:
Could you share your avisynth experience like with HDR video post production. My adventure ended with your fusion2 script. I didn't get any great results with fusion2 because of the harsh crushed blacks. As for open source solutions maybe the Blender solution works better here with the GUI and more visual control over the final image. I'm currently testing that.

Thanks a lot for this workflow. One question though. The hdr blend looks more of an exposure average than something achieved through tone mapping. I would like to see the whole sky of the dark exposure in the end result. Because it has a nice atmosphere. I wonder if you just shoot non HDR at the exposure in between both hdr exposures and use something like flaat10 you might achieve the same result with 25 real frames. But I like to try the different settings to see what it's capable of.

Hi.

Anybody using Lightworks out there?
Basically it's the same workflow as described in Blender, but one of the forum-members created an user-effect especially for ML-HDR videos.
You still have to separate the two exposures, either with the doublespeed, two tracks, slip-one-frame approach or with an external prog, but then you just slap the "HDR" effect over them and get three sliders called threshold, contrast and gain.
Very easy to use. A short example can be seen here, but don't expect any spectacular shot, it's just a test.

Wow well done Coutts!
Remember to sleep sometimes. I don't see any stars at 23:00. It's still pretty light.

Canon 5D C sounds a lot like Canon 1D C 

Hi Ian & Dom,

Could you point out in the flickr set which photo is achieved through ML functionality in one of these categories?
HDR Bracketing
Focus Stacks
Long Exposures
Trap Focus
Motion Detection

Like the HDR photo's. Are they made out of multiple exposures or with tone mapping on one existing photo.

I use this as my main picturestyle setting under custom picture style 1 (PS1) since it was introduced in this article
http://prolost.com/blog/2009/8/3/flatten-your-5d.html

On PS2 I put neutral flaat10, on PS3 neutral flaat12

When I get zebras in both highlights and shadows in PS1, I'll switch to flaat10 PS2. If that doesn't help I switch to PS3. And after that I choose to accept crushed shadows or blown highlights or head to HDR video.

EDIT

I moved from cinestyle to flaat 10 because of this article.
http://www.shutterangle.com/2012/canon-picture-styles-shooting-flat-or-not

Fixed

nice with the ability to watch it in full size.

Looks good. Maybe I can add some info in the forum footer and an app link.

I saw your site and like to tone mapping examples in the photo section of this forum. If you can share those photo's on flickr, I can add those to the gallery if you like.
If budget is important then I still wouldn't go for FD lenses, because the mount of FD lenses is too large. When you focus far and to infinity the image doesn't get projected on the sensor but a little in front of the sensor. They require an adapter with magnifying glass to enable focus to infinity. The budget adapters have inferior glass that have a bad influence on the image quality of the FD glass. You also get an increase in focal length and less light sensitivity due to the adapter.

For budget options Pentax lenses are a far better choice. Very common and cheap. No concessions toward the image quality and fine m42 adapters cost 5 Euro on Ebay. My current favorites are: Pentax takumar super-multi-coated 50mm f1.4 (needs uv light treatment to get rid of the yellow color casts) and the MIR-24H 35mm f2. The MIR is sharp open, the Pentax after stopping down to f2 and both have a very nice bokeh. These cost between 50-100 euro. But if you take a 50mm f1.7. That one is great and a lot cheaper.

Aside for Pentax you can use Nikon, Olympus, Yashica, Tamron Adaptall lenses, Leica and loads of others with their own adapters.
Ricoh, Minolta should be avoided as they have the same problem as Canon FD.
http://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/showcat.php?mcats=20,23&si=&what=title&name=&when=&whenterm=&dist=&radius=

Thanks for sharing your video. If you like this look and get it straight from the camera, then there is little wrong with that. There are other ways to get this look through filters or editing that give you more control over where you want details and where you want softness.

Looks nice and I'd like to try it out. But I don't have a mac.

Hi to be honest, the whole 3rd party section is not ready yet and more and more potential candidates turn up.

we have the card boot tools
the silent picture conversion tools
the hdr video and photo post production tools
the focus stacking tools
the timelapse tools

Where the open source ones are nice but also the commercial ones are pretty nice too.

I don't see the need there to only show open source solutions. Because many film makers have for instance adobe tools like Photoshop, Premiere and why not offer them great work flow in those programs. Photoshop can handle focus stacking out of the box.

Well done! Added to the short film category.

Hi,

I have a 600d and like that as well. But the audio chip in the 600d is different from the others. It's model is unknown and undocumented as far as we know. We also hope to find out more through the 650D and 5DmkIII.

Hi 3point,

Well done and I think this is the best free and multi platform option at the moment. It's an all video work flow in a single and powerful program.

Hi Screamer,

I love your work. Especially the purple flower with those intense colors and details. You make what looks like a boring function come to life.

Can I add these to the gallery?

Rackfocus uses the focus steps like the EOS Utility uses. And these steps are not exactly the same in both directions. Some lenses perform better than others. My 100mm 2.8 USM does ok if the distance is not very large. My Tokina 400mm does terrible and goes way beyond the end point. I think in 2.3 you can start and stop the rack focus manually with sensor remote. Like on the 550d. You put your hand near the sensor to start and away to stop. Choose the right end point by following the focus peaking.
I have to check that first.