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Hmm Id would like to add one more suggestion.  600d has no level and I know its not possible to add a level feature but, if I manually level the camera with a hotshoe bubble level would it be possible to place a line in the center of the live view screen that could calculate how many degrees you pan upwards from that line, or would it need an altimeter?  Not sure if possible but this would all tie together for creating gigapixel panos.  Regardless I'm sure there is some way that magic lantern in some way shape or for could speed up and make manual gigapixel panos more efficient out in the field.  My suggestion is to try for yourself and maybe come up with more recommendations. 

I learned how to manually create a gigapixel image the other day without a fancy gigapan machine. You need a panhead with alt and az labled and you must carefully zigzag rows with a telephoto lens and the pan head. I have messed around with the ghost image setting in ml and it i was wondering how many ghosts a camera like a 600d could display at once? It would be nice to fill the lower portion of the screen to keep track of row and column progress. What would really be nice would be a way to calculate sensor size, focal ratio, and card space and use this data to mark a starting and ending point XY axis to work on a gigapixel image.  Here is a link to the page that brought about my curiosity http://blog.chasejarvis.com/blog/2012/11/how-to-shoot-a-7-gigapixel-60-foot-wide-photo-in-5-easy-steps-the-devil-is-in-the-details/ 

Thanks! As temp fluctuates throughout the night the calculations would really grow astronomically! This helps out slot

can canon dslr's generate smpte timecode?  I am not a movie maker at all but I know I see smpte in the ableton settings menu and it allows you to sync audio to video from what I understand.

i too would be interested in this feature

Any way we could have the option to switch cmos temperature display from Celsius to Fahrenheit on the 550d?  Would help me out alot and I know alot of others too, I have to record temperatures for dark frame data each night so I can register it appropriately when stacking light frames. Also since Im asking question, is it possible to dim the green illuminated lights inside of the viewfinder? thanks

Hey I was wondering if a menu that allowed maybe 6 custom white balance settings would be probable?  I have one camera, a t2i, which is modified for infrared and I have to change the white balance on it alot and it stinks having 1 white balance, on top of that you cannot name the type of white balance so if you go out the next day it's a little bit of guess work to get started.  I use custom white balance on my T3i alot as well, especially if I am doing long exposures or macro photography.  Just thought I would put that out there.  Does anyone else have a use for multiple custom white balance settings?

I have been messing with a program called registax which takes video files and stacks them to create a high resolution image.  Today I thought to myself what if I try magic lanterns HDR video to enhance the amount of data available to adjust in the final image?  Unfortunately I went outside and it was cloudy so I will have to wait another night.  I was wondering if anyone could think of any other creative ways that magic lantern could help benefit this process?

calypsob,
I'm not sure I get your question. The RGB values of any image captured on any digital camera using any picture style can be adjusted in post production. The RGB values also change right in camera once there's any movement, a change of lighting, exposure or white balance. If you're talking about black levels, you have the option to shoot with VisionColor (0-255), VisionTech (9-255) or VisionLog (16-255).

nanomad, sent you a pm!

Ok I was wondering why each image said RGB(x,x,x) in the lower right corner of each image.  I thought the way these presets worked was to adjust in camera RGB values before shooting.  Now I figure that those 3 images represent a histogram showing the capability of each adjustable black level.  thanks for clarifying. 

Hi Marvin,

VisionColor utilizes the entire tonal range available in the 8-bit coding space, clipping at 0 and 100% luminocity (RGB values of 0,0,0 and 255,255,255) whereas VisionTech performs a slight boost of the blackpoint. (3% or RGB 9,9,9)

Despite popular belief this is not because it gives more latitude (which it doesn't) but to enable the camera to encode color information where in other profiles there would be none. To explain, the internal processing of the picture styles employ the HSL standard which stands for Hue, Saturation and Luminocity. With our picture styles we have seperated the luma range into 20 increments of 5%. It is the lowest 5% that are being boosted in VisionTech so that actual color information (H,S) is preserved where it would otherwise be lost due to luminocity values of 0-2. Shifting the black-point away from 0% luminocity before encoding to 8-bit h.264 enables the camera to suck additional low-light color information out of the sensor. Obviously this electronic boost results in an increase of noise but since our styles are tailored to a specific post-workflow, a little bit of noise should not be a concern and can easily be taken care of by Neat Video.

In short, VisionTech raises the blacks in order to retain low light color information, especially in the red channel to preserve skin tones.
Since the data being shifted towards the lower gamma range falls into the part of the image with the least data being assigned to by the compression, there is little to no poterization introduced in the midtones and highlights which has been our primary concern with all of our styles.

The color contrast of all our picture styles is based on the original colorimetry we programmed for VisionColor but since we utilized different gamma curves for each of our profiles and, as lightness and saturation are co-related, we had to make some adjustments to individual color tones. The main visible difference between VisionTech and VisionColor however is made by in the default in-camera parameters. VisionTech comes with the color tone slider @ 0 whereas VisionColor has it set to -1. You can freely adjust that slider to your liking. (negative values - magenta; positive values - green)



Does vision allow the user to adjust RBG values independently as implied from the image above?

Ok. Sorry I asked.

Well thats no exactly what I said, but yes I agree.  It seems that post processing is the only way to do this without filters artificially.  The closest I can find to anything relating to what I am talking about is called spectral selectivity. http://photo.net/learn/optics/edscott/ms000010.htm   It takes place in post processing and I don't think it is quite ready to replace expensive physical narrow band astronomik filters yet http://www.astronomik.com/en/   Maybe one day we will see something along the lines of in camera digital nanometer wavelength manipulation.  I apologize for my narrow understanding of ML's capabilities but I have to admit that it takes my imagination to other places.

Well rats, I was really hoping that some were within all the in camera processing it was doable.  I have to say that I cant help but draw up similarities between music production and photography sometimes.  On a computer you can use software based eq's- "in camera processing equivalent with photography"  or external hardware based eq's such as a crane song ibis " external h-alpha 58mm screw on filter equivalent with photography" SO basically Software and hardware based manipulation of frequency range.  I would imagine that people could find many other creative uses for this type of function if it were possible, maybe it would benefit infrared photography as well. I can foresee a very cool version of HDR in which you can expose color channels at different exposures and iso's and blend them back together in post.  I will admit this is a way off the wall idea but hey thats kind of what magic lantern is all about right?  Since we are on the topic how about a graphic eq for in camera audio?? Thanks for your time btw.

a visual it would look something like this chart http://www.ruthcsmith.com/psych101/lightstimulus.html   x axis is nanometer range and y axis would be gain or saturation, Im not familiar with the correct jargon but Im sure a programmer would know what Im trying to say.

I skimmed the manual for a bit and saw no way to directly adjust color by frequency.  I produce music alot and use whats called an 8 band paragraphic EQ.  It allows you to cut or boost audio frequencies by adjusting the band over whatever frequency you want and then you can apply a curve.  I am wondering if it would be possible to do this for exposures in canon cameras that work with magic lantern.  In astrophotography it is difficult to properly expose H-Alpha regions because canons have a filter that rolls off this frequency over the sensor.  It is still there but very subtle.  It would be great to have the ability to use an eq which could boost and cut colors by frequency, I suppose technically colored light is refered to as nanometers.  Is it possible to have this function as some sort of picture style or something in a 600d? Picture style would be set to monochrome and then it would be great to be able to shoot your own RGB channels separately by filtering out custom channels and then stacking them together in post processing. thanks guys

I have a 24mm pentax-A and it is one of my favorites.  Manual aperture and focus. Cant go wrong.

I had an old zoom H2 field recorder crap out on me so I am looking to updating my recording capabilities for video on my 600d.  I want to use the tascam im2 http://www.dvestore.com/tascam-im2-iphone-microphone-with-wind-muff/  on my iphone and monitor direct from the iphone into the 600d mic input.  Has anyone tried this to see if it would work?  Sure would make things easy in terms of carrying around gear.  Also what is the audio bit depth when recording with the 600d is it 16bit or 24? thanks.

woa this is great, thanks for sharing a1ex.  I agree that cartoon mode kinda looks like highpass sharpening

Im a bit confused, is this for film mode or for shooting?  Iso 25 would be great for long exposures.

that is really weird if you are using a tripod.  It kinda looks like you should turn off your autofocus.  What kind of ballhead are you using?  If its a cheap one or just a loose one it may be sliding a little bit.  Also turn on the deghosting function in photomatix, although I dont think it will really help in this case it is good for environmental movement. Actually I just remembered that I had the same problem one day when I left the camera strap on the camera and it was a windy day, the wind was shaking the camera just slightly.

Hmm I dot think I have ever noticed the ALL-I feature on the 600d, is this a magic lantern feature addition?  I don't really do any video work but just the other day a friend asked me to help him do a youtube video so I have been paying closer attention to video work lately so I am prepared when he is ready to shoot.   You are right to say bitrate is not everything, the 4/3 sensor looses in terms of low light performance and noise reduction, not to mention the sensor is smaller than aps-c and full frame.  I would like to see these high bitrates though one day, the seamless camera movement and non choppy transitions are eye candy. Also I would be really happy if the canons could do uncompressed video for stacking astrophotography images, since we were on the topic.  thanks for the input guys

I have been watching alot of these videos that cover the panasonic gh2 driftwood hacks.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcKuGoMN-VQ&feature=relmfu   What is so special about this little 4/3 in comparison to the canon DSLR's?  It would seem like at least one of the higher end canon's would bve able to pull the insanely high bit rates of the GH2.  Please fill me in on the details if you are up to date on this information.

In my macro photography work I use a reversed 28mm lens which gives me a razor thin DOF and it can be rather dizzying to use the viewfinder sometimes so I was wondering if a script for a range finder could somehow be implemented so that I could track how close I am to the focal point while in live view mode.  Alternatively I suppose that a range finder script could be useful for other applications as well.

I have the same camera and a tokina 11-16, its great for wide stuff.  In terms of a replacement for the 18-55 you have a few options, which I have considered myself lately.  There is the sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 which is a pretty good lens, under $400.  Tamron makes a 28-70mm f/2.8 again under 400.  Tokina makes the 16-50mm which is also fast f/2.8 but comes with a bigger price take at around $800.  finally there is the canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L which runs in at $1,200 and is overbudget but very freaking nice however it does not have image stabilization.  Finally dont over look carl zeiss lens.  They are manual but they are superb.  The only one in your budget is their nifty fifty, the planar T 50mm.  It is wicked fast at f/1.8 but you wont get your ultra wides or teles with this guy none the less it would make a great go to lens.

Im not going to claim to be an astrophotographer but I do enjoy doing widefield astrophotography when I can.  Im happy to see some astrophotographers on here, I had some similar questions to the ones mentioned so far in this discussion.  I was out shooting the milky way last night with my T3i and I was using the canon long exposure noise reduction function, which can be turned off by the way.  It seems decently effective all the way up to iso 1300.  iso 3200+ and you need to do manual dark frames from what I understand.  I have never been very good at the whole dark frame process using digital sky stacker in post processing so I would like to contribute a few ideas to this thread.   If magic lantern could be setup in a scenario similar to HDR bracketing only, Long exposure bracketing or something to that nature I believe it may be possible to execute a process similar to this one listed here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bias_frame  If we could run a long exposure set which took the shot, a dark frame, and a bias frame, 3 images total, that would make post process so much faster.  Honestly any further research on the abilities to reduce long exposure noise with magic lantern scripting in these crop sensor canons would be HUGE for the world of astrophotography.