Messages

It seems MLVApp doesn't skip black borders (OB Zones?) in MLV silent picture files, here is a sample from 700D:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lZ91OUQ9BQN5kyBtrXpUa0-YTiz92V6J/view?usp=sharing

It's showing the full 5280x3528 image, it should be 5208x3478 (Effective pixels on 700D) when skipping black borders in the top and left

An EOS M user tested Sandisk Extreme PRO 512 GB 170 MB/s with 240 MHz overclock, the 240 MHz overclock didn't work on that Card, benchmarks showed 20 MB/s

Some cards are lucky, like as ZEEK's Sandisk Extreme PRO 512 GB 170 MB/s card, unfortunately buying an Sandisk Extreme PRO 170 MB/s with 512 GB capacity isn't a guarantee to make 240MHz preset work on EOS M.

A link to his post on "MLV RAW ON EOS M" Facebook group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/375018026655820/permalink/868207530670198/?comment_id=868301957327422&reply_comment_id=868493133974971

Really?
I never notice this on my 6D. If I increase voltage, the current goes down.
How du you messure?

Bilal,

Could you please measure the exact voltage in this 8.55V scenario under load, e. g. while recording a long MLV clip, and see if it drops to a lower value with recording time?  What is the current that the camera draws in this case, with Life view on?

I have only measured Voltage output from the dummy battery pins before attaching it to the camera, not sure how to exactly measure the current, still learning about electricity and electronics

But it's definitely overheating, even at 8.55 Volt, I made more tests today, the temperature is higher than usual (than the normal battery) it goes up to 72 C degree after ~ 25 - 30 Minutes in ~22 room temp by only setting the camera in LiveView mode. I can't re-test and apply new measurements right now, maybe I did something wrong . . I replaced the AC adapter with a 7.4 Volt Battery Pack:




Max temperature -using above battery- I got is ~62 C degree and this while recording for more than two hours and with 240MHz overclock enabled, in same room temperature and settings, I think I could record up to 3 - 4 hours with this battery before it would die. I will stuck with it in this period, good thing you don't need to play with voltage, it works out of the box.

I would back with more tests in future.

@BatchGordon

The unbinning idea came two years ago, you may want to read from here:
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=16516.msg210484#msg210484

A few posts later: the binned pixels can't be unbinned, the information of original unbinned pixels are lost forever.

It would be cool if someone find out how to process/stretch 1x3 data in a better way to enhance the quality.

[50fps]

Hi guys, thank you for this wonderful forum. I am a new ML user. I apologize in advanced if this question is given already. I did search the forum but am having a hard time finding the answer. Is the Eos 700D able to shoot in 50fps in 1080p? I really need to know this. Thank you so much in advance.

Hello!

If you mean 1080p50 in H.264, no you can't (reason: hardware limitations), however:
700D doesn't record native 1920x1080 resolution in H.264, it's actually upscale 1736x976 to 1920x1080 in H.264, so now if your question was " Can we record 1736x976 @ 50 FPS in RAW? "

Kind of, with limitations, the sensor support up to 1736x970 @ 50 FPS:

-You have to record in uncompressed RAW to avoid corrupted frames, @ 10-bit uncompressed the write speed would be 100 MB/s
-You will have stretched LiveView

This can be achieved in crop_new

You're welcome

@lightwriter

Hi again!

1- This corruption due to un-refreshed LiveView, to prevent this:

-You should always press Menu button twice for refreshing LiveView to apply the new settings, after changing them in crop_new "Crop mode V2", even when you turn off the module, you should press Menu button twice.

Also when you startup the camera and if crop_new was already ON you need to refresh LiveView manually!

2- In mlv_lite submenu --> Preview --> Framing

3- Yeah, that's what I am using

4- ?

MLVApp corrects aspect ratio automatically for you, you don't need to change anything regarding resolution. The output would be correct.

5- EOS M has some problems with 240 MHz overclock it doesn't work fine on this camera even with 170 MB/s Sandisk Extreme PRO cards (except one card: Sandisk Extreme PRO 170MB/s with 512 GB Capacity) , doing a "Low Level Format" would fix the speed drop issue e.g: from 66.7 MB/s to 51.8 MB/s -- these things have been discussed before in this topic.

6- This issue has been discussed here

But has nothing to do with the topic of power banks, does it?

No, we are talking about 9 volt output directly to the camera, some users above are using 9 volt output from powebank to their Canon cameras, I described my experience with 9 volt output and 9 volt is related to powerbanks. I added the full story for more details.

I bought my last dummy adapter for less than 5 € in China..

Short Answer: Welcome to Syria

Extended version: I have ordered one also from AliExpress 45 days ago, and I am still waiting it I expect it to arrive after two weeks from now, but you may don't know shipping from China is quite expensive to Syria (depending on item), a 8 US Dollar USB dummy battery convertor would coast after shipping 25 USD , I felt excited and said "I don't have more time to wait" so I made DIY AC adapter from a faulty LP-E8 battery.

Directors cut: In general, ordering items from China would consume more money and time to my Country, and this would be okay if the price was already doubled in local stores for an Canon 700D AC adapter, and yeah the price is x2 (it's 53 USD for an AC adapter in local stores), I would stuck to the short answer version in this case.

note: the DIY AC adapter coast me 1 Dollar to make (fortunately, not everything is expensive here).

Bilal,

Commercially available low-cost adapters have a pretty high internal resistance resulting in a serious voltage drop under load.  You need a steady 7,4V source with a very small internal resistance and at least 2A consumption to avoid the "low battery" warning.   This performance is readily achieved with LiIon batteries but is a challenge for power adapters.  If your camera works fine with 8,9V you shouldn't worry that something can go wrong.  This voltage will drop significantly under load.  Just monitor the camera internal temperature when recording longer clips.  If it gets too high, camera will shut down and you can add one diode.  If it is normal and does not overheat, just leave it as it is.  If something overheats or burns out, it will be the power adapter and not the camera.

I also plan to build a DIY external power supply for my EOS-M but instead of using bulky and heavy power adapters I will try connecting two powerful LiIon cells, (at least 5x the current capacity of the LPE-12 battery) in series for a stable 7.4V source.  These cells are pretty compact and not too expensive.  My concern is much more the smart charger that I will have to build to protect the cells when charging.  I'll check and see if I can find 3,7V cells with built in overcharge protection circuits inside.  If someone has used such cells, please share your experience here.

I measured Original fully charged LP-E8 battery (~ 4 Years old) with multimeter and that gives 8.05 Volt not 7.40 Volt, I read somewhere on the internet LP-E8 battery could go up to 8.40 V when it's fully charged.

I made more tests yesterday, I think 8.90 Volt made the camera overheats quicker than usual, I re-added one diode to drop voltage to ~8.55 and that was fine and it doesn't overheat quickly it was normal, I will stuck with 8.55 Volt, I didn't have another issues like "voltage will drop significantly under load", I tested Still pictures with Flash ON and it was fine.

Li-Ion cells are a good option too, I thought about it today, instead I may consider good powerbank with quick charge support, this is easier than building a whole circuit with Li-Ion cells and you will need a casing for that.


I am not recommending anything I am doing, just sharing a little experience

Just made a DIY AC adapter for 700D, followed these guides:

Code Select Expand

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLeUN58gWq8

Code Select Expand

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMGaj0k60dA

Edit: I used 470uF 16V Capacitor

I didn't find 7.5 Volt power adapter in local stores, I have AC to DC adapter with 9 Volt (actual output 9.25 V) 1.5A , I used three diodes to lower the voltage to 8.25 from 9.25, after I made the dummy battery and all related work (soldering, etc..) and powering on the camera, that gave me "Change Battery Pack" message with empty battery icon, So I removed one diode and it now the voltage was ~8.55, that made the camera boots with yellow battery indicator, then I removed one more diode --> this gave ~ 8.90 Volt, now the camera showed fully charged battery icon.

I can coniform 9 Volt works fine on 700D.

is anyone experiencing black holes when recording RAW video? It seems like a bug from the latest build

Do you have a sample or picture showing the problem? which build exactly is affected? and is there a previous build doesn't have this problem, which one?

Hello, i have just installed the ML nightly build for my 1200D and i was wondering if someone could help me and advise me on if there is a way i can record RAW on the camera at 10bit instead of 14bit. I try to record 14bit and set my CBR to 0.5x however after 72 frames, it stops recording.

Could someone explain if there's a chance to record RAW on the 1200D for video and if so, how?
Is it hardware limited due to the fact it's an old camera or is it restricted due to limitations of my SD card?
I am not as technical as most on this forum but i am willing to learn.
Kind Regards

Hello

CBR doesn't affect RAW video in any way, it's just for H.264 video recording. Nightly Builds don't contain 12/10-bit options for any camera. There are experimental builds in the experiments page which contain builds for 10/12 bit for some models, unfortunately and currently there is no build for 1200D with 10/12 bit-depths function.

1200D has limited write speed, mostly it is 21 MB/s as many DIGIC 4 cameras, overclocking is a solution for this case, but also currently there is no overclock for DIGIC 4 cameras to bypass this limit to achieve more write speed, this is the main reason for limited recording time, other ones might be from your SD card, you can run card benchmarks using Bench.mo module directly from the camera and see how the card performs,

Also uncompressed 14-bit recording is a lot of data at maximum RAW resolution in 1200D for a such limited write speed, a workaround for this is to get 14-bit lossless compression working on DIGIC 4 cameras, this could cut the required writing speed by half by compressing the RAW data losslessly @ 14-bit.

For now you can only lower the resolution for continuous recording.

Very nice. This reminded me to add the video to our About page

https://magiclantern.fm/about.html

Yeah . Cool!

I liked adding Discord and Reddit too to the front page of the forum, this make things easier, also, nicer.

Some days ago I noticed someone has shared this introduction before back in 2013:
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7606.0

A credit goes to him as the first guy shared this introduction in the forum, why no one replied back then, it was awesome, it seems RAW video stole the limelight in that period.

Just noticed, Trammell Hudson has updated his story with Magic Lantern on his site, if someone is interested to read:

https://trmm.net/Magic_Lantern_firmware/

Nice

Is it possible to get a full 16:9 ratio over the HDMI output without the black vertical sidebars at any resolution?  I mean straight out of the camera without processing.  I know the T5i can't do a full-screen 1080i, but stretching or cropping with OBS software introduces some lag that is awkward on Zoom calls.

Note: I tried Canon's EOS WebCam software that uses USB instead of HDMI but the frame rate was way too low for reasonable Zoom calls.

Unfortunately clean HDMI output (without the black bars on both sides) from 700D/T5i isn't possible, I was doing some experiments regarding these black bars, I got promising results, you can see here (first post, the HDMI experiment):
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=25287.0

So I think implementing clean HDMI output on T5i is possible and we know where to start, but currently I am unable to continue experimenting, lack of time, sorry.


@lightwriter

You're welcome!

When I mentioned 1600x2040 preset, I think here:

There is 1x3 Mode which use full width sensor (1.61 Crop) which is 1736x2214 @ 23.976 FPS 2.35:1 AR you can achieve it by crop_new on 700D, however this mode isn't continuous even with the 240 MHz overclock and 10-bit lossless, you may lower the resolution to 1600x2040 @ 23.976 FPS 2.35:1 AR with 1.74 Crop to get continuous recording ..

To achieve continuous recording you need to use 10-bit lossless, and you need the 240 MHz overclock (with Sandisk Extreme PRO 170 MB/s card)

In RAW video I selected 1600, but when I go to Crop mode V2, I didn't change X resolution, but it says 1736.

Yes, This seems correct, keeping X value to zero will give the default X resolution which is 1736 in grey color.

What bit depth should I select in Crop Mode V2? Or should it be off?

For continuous recording, you need to select 10-bit from "Crop mode V2" , and keep it 14-bit lossless from "RAW video".

At the bottom, it says in yellow that it will record at 64MB/s, 0x5.4MB, 23.982 (49%). Expect around 0 frames at 56.3MB/s.

You will need to use 10-bit from "Crop mode V2" to lower the data rate, also you will need 240 MHz overclock which gives up to 68 MB/s write speed in video mode, 192 MHz is limited to ~55 MB/s maybe a little more which won't give continuous recording in this mode . .

Pressing Menu button twice, the resolution of Crop mode V2 shows 1736x2040 1x3, RAW video shows 1600x2040 1.74x

Yes, this seems correct too, recording at this stage (after pressing Menu button twice) would allow you to record some seconds without corrupted frames, right?

I did low level format in the original canon menu when formatting.

What am I doing wrong? Sorry for the trouble.

P.S.: Would the Sandisk Extreme Pro 170MB/s V30 be a better choice by allowing 240MHz?

P.P.S.: In Benchmark, with SD Overclock at 192MHz I'm getting write speeds of about 54 MB/s...it's on the low side, no?

Everything you are doing is correct actually, but you will need the 240 MHz overclock with 170 MB/s Sandisk Extreme Pro and 10-bit depth from "Crop mode V2" for continuous recording, the 192 MHz benchmarks looks okay too if you did the benchmark in video mode, try running benchmark in PLAY mode, run benchmark and press PLAY button; this should give you ~80 MB/s write and read speeds.

Have you managed to get some clips without corrupted frames in this mode?

Hello @lightwriter

Yes, 192MHz overclock is stable for Sandisk Extreme PRO 95MB/S  cards, you need to do low level format in the camera at least for once, this prevent speed drops if it were there.

You can get 1x3 1600x2040 in crop_new (Crop mode V2):

Set Binning mode to 1x3, Y resolution to 2040, FPS to 23.976, keep X resolution as default (zero)

Press Menu button twice for refreshing LiveView to apply our new settings, from mlv_lite set the resolution to 1600, Aspect ratio to 2.35:1, now you should be okay, check the resolution from mlv_lite (RAW video)

MLVApp would read the file as 1x3 Binning, and would stretch the footage automatically --> So the stretched resolution from 1600x2040 file would be after stretching 4800x2040, now it's 2.35:1 AR

The Preview would be stretched in LiveView, there is no real-time correct preview in this mode, you want to use ML Framing to check framing.

Yes there is no aliasing in 1x3 Binning, this is the huge advantage for this mode! also 1x3 Binning reduces moire patterns a lot.

The the source code for my 700D / 650D builds is in 650D / 700D thread:
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=25784.0

Hi Bilal, is it possible to add a preset for "full resolution liveview 1:1) in your custom crop_rec module for 700D?

I tried to use crop_rec new but the preview in 5x is not usable and it stop working immediately after the start also if I reduce fps to 4.

I would try to take a video of the full moon at 1600 mm of FL to obtain a "mineral moon" picture.

Thanks for your great work

Fabio

Sorry for the delay, I didn't use full resolution LiveView much in the past, so I spent some weeks playing with it.

I am preparing for a new build which solve ML Framing in x5 mode, and also added custom FPS in crop_new, this will allow using the full shutter speed in any framerate, from 360° to 1° angles.

Adding full resolution LiveView preset in crop_rec won't perform any better from crop_new, Canon preview would be broken in both modules, in this case you should use ML Framing (which has a problem currently in my latest build, fortunately I fixed it now, will realease a new build soon)

Guess what: Full resolution LiveView = 5208x3478 @ 5 FPS is continous in 12-bit lossless  , of course when using 240 MHz overclock. More info coming soon.

You're welcome

Please provide short MLV sample for the mode you are using, you can cut it in MLVApp, two frames are enough, export it as MLV (fast pass)

I can make a simple tutorial about how to generte focus pixel map for any resolution (using Crop rec V2) for both 1x3 and 1x1 modes.

Ah, I thought you are using 700D (Why not to post on 650D thread?)

Mostly all 700D focus pixels maps are identical to 650D too, in this case you need only to change the ID in focus pixel map files from 700D ID to 650D ID; from "80000326" to "80000301":

Just did it for all focus pixel maps, try these focus maps for 650D (It should work with all crop_rec presets using my 650D build):
650D Focus Pixels Maps.zip

Please let me know if these work for 650D in all presets.

[≠]

In focus pixel maps we are calculating the black areas too, so:

Naming of focus pixel map  ≠ RAW resolution
Naming of focus pixel map  > RAW resolution

In your case the map you are looking for is "80000326_1512x1864.fpm", extract all the focus pixel maps in MLVApp folder, you should be fine in all crop_rec presets automatically.

-You can also use the latest MLVApp which can download all the required focus maps automatically too, or you can drag and drop the focus maps from the archive into MLVApp interface, and this will install the focus maps in MLVApp.

Original focus map created in 2018 which covers all focus pixels on the sensor, and we are using the same map for all 1x3 Binning modes (I am duplicating it), remaining thing is to identify which RAW resolution we are using now and calculate the offsets for current resolution (to match the focus pixel map with MLV file), and we can achieve this by just changing the naming of the focus pixel map to include RAW resolution + black areas, in this case the focus pixel map date will stay 2018 (renaming won't affect the date).

Some days ago I shared this video on Discord server:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMyGSyYP0hg

a1ex replies were exciting:

"should be doable without external motors, and with a less expensive sensor
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=23739.0
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=4997.0
you still need a way to get the distance sensor data into ML (possible via USB for example, but there may be other ways)"

Original messages on Discord:
https://discord.com/channels/671072748985909258/756922555532837024/766227505056186368

Lidar contacting directly to lens motors via USB connection using ML, that maybe would work with STM lens (with loop focus ring).

If you shot RAW MLV footage, in MLVApp you can use one of the followings:

1-From "Lens Correction" Tab --> "CA Desaturate Threshold" slider

You may try other tools also:

2-in "Details" --> Enable "Chroma Separation" --> Use "Chroma Blur Radius" slider

3-Also in "Details" tab --> "RBF Denoise Chroma" slider

This tools may affect saturation of the image colors too, try the best values and best tool from above for you.

it would be great.  especially shooting without aliasing.  and correct viewing x5 mode

If you mean the real-time correct previews, well, this maybe would be hard to port it on 6D, it took me nearly 3 weeks to figure it out on 700D, on 6D it *might* be easy (similar to 700D) or even harder, no one have tried so I am not quite sure.

But shooting in 1x3 Binning mode without aliasing on 6D is already there in Levas builds, but with stretched preview.

for canon 6d there is a croprec new module like in 700d?

Nope, it's only ported for 700D and recently for 650D (very identical cameras), it's not that hard I think to make it work on 6D too, but it needs some more code adjustments.

Cool, so it might be only MLVApp problem after all that?!

I will make tests with cr2hdr to prove or not prove that since I dealt with these problems from two years ago

[x5 mode]

Some EOS M users reporting flickering problem when using Dual ISO in 2.5K and other presets on MLV RAW ON EOS M Facebook group

I had this problem too in the past on 700D, it was from the generic code for ADTG registers, some ADTG registers present in 700D, EOS M which changes from video mode to another, a1ex included it because his graphs was showing it should change when increasing RAW resolution, using these registers or not using it *doesn't have any effect* on 700D and EOS M, I marked it as unnecessary registers for these cameras, why?

Because it's causing the flickering problem when using Dual ISO, I thought this problem was from some shutter blanking issues or the heavy 100/3200 Dual ISO, or even MLVApp, fortunately I made some tests in the past and narrowed down the following ADTG registers which caused this strange flickering problem, after commenting out these registers the flickering gone:

Code Select Expand

        //adtg_new[7]  = (struct adtg_new) {6, 0x8173, nrzi_encode(fps_timer_b - 1) }; /* PowerSaveTiming OFF (6D/700D) */
        //adtg_new[8]  = (struct adtg_new) {6, 0x8179, nrzi_encode(fps_timer_b - 1) }; /* PowerSaveTiming OFF (5D3/6D/700D) */

        //adtg_new[11] = (struct adtg_new) {6, 0x82F8, nrzi_encode(readout_end + 1) }; /* ReadOutTiming */
        //adtg_new[12] = (struct adtg_new) {6, 0x82F9, nrzi_encode(fps_timer_b - 1) }; /* ReadOutTiming end? */

Some days ago I found there is another flickering problem when using Dual ISO in 1x3 Binning mode with real time correct preview @ 2.35:1, 2:1 and 16:9 Aspect ratios, not sure what causing this flickering in these presets But in 1x3 Binning 2.50:1 preset with real time correct preview there is no flickering, something is happening here when lowering width RAW resolution and increasing Vertical RAW resolution in x5 mode, I think some registers related to horizontal resolution or vertical resolution or both need to be tweaked

Tested Dual ISO in 1x3 Binning 2.35:1 preset in mv1080 mode with stretched preview, the flickering problem isn't there (it's gone), some registers here appear to control something which cause this problem, these registers are between x5 and mv1080 mode, happy catching

Some examples from EOS M users posted on the Facebook group:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnHAF1qKLhs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuZqeGWCL6k

You can see the flickering problem clearly in my old 2018 video, I was testing 1x3 Binning mode with Dual ISO:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmawA6qe-Dc

Edit: here is my old reporting for this problem:
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=19300.msg207717#msg207717

..It's some kind of flicker(Low contrast frame/High constrast frame something like that) I thought it was from shutter speed bug or aggressive 100/3200 Dual ISO but using same Dual ISO and without crop_rec the problem is gone. That's how I found the problem wasn't from Dual ISO and shutter speed bug (shutter speed was set to lowest value so no flicker was happening) then I tried to comment out other ADTG registers and the problem has been fixed.

I didn't search to find out which specific ADTG registers causing this but the point is not to use unnecessary registers for all cameras maybe that isn't good thing. For small cameras (700D, 650D, 100D and EOS M) the necessary ones is 8172, 8178 and 82b6. I don't have my cam and laptop right now posting examples next week.