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Hardware and Accessories / Re: ND filter Marumi ND64 or CPL to shoot waterfall and seascape?
« on: October 03, 2022, 04:17:44 PM »
I can't say anything about that exact filter, but I do a lot of such water scenes. My usual setup is a 1+kg carbon tripod, ND8 B+W filter (or a Chinese one, sometimes), not a large one. You can stack it with a CPL, but vignetting and flares become worse. The more surfaces you have, the more reflections you get.
I believe, any high density filter gives a noticeable color shift and some lack of sharpness. And no filter gives you a way to shoot in a broad daylight. F22 usually is a good solution, but you need some other shots (F8 or wider) to recover small details around in post. And flat frames to get rid of dust spots.
I prefer a moderate ND, then I can go with silent pictures at 0.1sec or multiple shots. You should align frames (perfectly!), then stack. Choose a tool you like, PS isn't the fastest one. If you have time, try video tools with optical flow (like Twixtor) - simulate more frames, then blend them.
Don't waste money too fast, get some practice, get some feel of it.
I believe, any high density filter gives a noticeable color shift and some lack of sharpness. And no filter gives you a way to shoot in a broad daylight. F22 usually is a good solution, but you need some other shots (F8 or wider) to recover small details around in post. And flat frames to get rid of dust spots.
I prefer a moderate ND, then I can go with silent pictures at 0.1sec or multiple shots. You should align frames (perfectly!), then stack. Choose a tool you like, PS isn't the fastest one. If you have time, try video tools with optical flow (like Twixtor) - simulate more frames, then blend them.
Don't waste money too fast, get some practice, get some feel of it.