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Messages - PaulHarwood856

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Hardware and Accessories / Re: Jammed focusing on old lens (any advice)
« on: August 08, 2018, 05:28:39 PM »
Hey ItsMeLenny,

    You could try visiting a local camera shop, and see if there is someone knowledgeable in vintage lenses. You can see if they know of a repair shop for vintage lenses. You might be able to send your lens for repair at Duclos. Here is a link:

    Another thing you could try is contacting Ken Wheeler (also known as The Angry Photographer) on Youtube. He has a lot of videos about vintage Nikkor lenses, however, he might be able to help you out. Here is a link to his channel:

    There are other youtube videos on how to fix or modify vintage lenses. It's possible someone might be able to help you out.

    Also, try posting on multiple forums (you might've already done this) and see if anyone has suggestions.

    I hope this helps. If you have any questions on what I said, please let me know. Please keep Magic Lantern posted on your situation.

- Paul Harwood

General Help Q&A / Re: Audio Very Low After Turning Off AGC On T3i
« on: July 20, 2018, 02:11:30 PM »
You're welcome PhilEm!

General Help Q&A / Re: Audio Very Low After Turning Off AGC On T3i
« on: July 01, 2018, 06:23:23 PM »
Hello PhilEm,

    If you are recording in camera, I would like into acquiring a Rode Video Mic Pro (older version). This has a +20 db option, which allows you to lower the in camera mic level, and remove hiss. However, if budget doesn't allow, if you record a few seconds of just silence, you can remove the hiss in Adobe Audition (and probably other audio editing software). You can capture the noise print in Audition, and this will remove the hiss in the rest of the recordings. So, like Teamsleepkid stated, you can turn up the audio recording, and as long as you have a noise print, the hiss can be removed. I believe you can do this in a free program called Audacity. You can also looked into JuicedLink, which can be acquired used online. They, unfortunately, went out of business. The only other thing I can think of, other than getting your mic as close as possible to whoever is speaking and acquiring an actual audio recorder, is to try this:

I used the Irig Pre for some time, and is actually good at boosting audio levels and lowering hiss, since it acts as a preamp.

Anyways, I hope this was helpful, and please let me know if anything I said was confusing, or if I can help in any other way. Don't give up, you'll get your audio working better, just takes some practice and trial and error.

- Paul Harwood

Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon EOS M
« on: June 28, 2018, 07:37:03 PM »
Hey gary2019,

   You're welcome!

- Paul

Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon EOS M
« on: June 27, 2018, 07:50:16 PM »
Hello Teamsleepkid and gary2019,

     Regarding a power solution, you can try contacting Lanparte. I currently use these:

     If you can find a dummy battery online, email Lanparte and ask if it would be compatible with their batteries. It is also possible to order without their dummy adapters to keep the price down a bit. BH has some used for sale though.

     If Lanparte can verify a dummy battery that will work with their batteries, this would be great. Can help with shooting long events. I can verify this with my Canon 7D and Canon T3i.

- Paul

Share Your Videos / Re: Ski Touring Film
« on: June 24, 2018, 10:51:34 PM »
I use Windows indeed (just for photo/video purposes, otherwise I am a Linux kind of guy). I did not know that CR2HDR changed, things go fast...

Your link will definitely changed my way to expose. Until now I was using ETTR with a "no zebra" policy.

I am surprised by the fact that you get more dynamic range at 800 ISO. Is it not that the lower, the better? What is this "native ISO" concept ? Are you saying that there is a sort of "sweet spot", like for lens aperture?

Hey Welles,

    When shooting H.264 compressed, the dynamic range is the best at ISO 800 on the Canon 7D. When shooting ISO 100, there is less dynamic range. I filmed in my backyard a few months ago, and when I saw ISO 800 had the most dynamic range, I decided to use a Variable ND outside and keep the ISO at 800. My shots have improved with this, combined with ETTR staying as close to 0 as possible. And you're welcome, glad you now know about ETTR vs. Zebras. I also found that f8 gives a really sharp image, however if going for shallow depth of field, I check focus for each shot, because if it's off just the slightest bit, there's no way to sharpen or fix that in post. I like to use a monitor when possible, because while recording I can't zoom in to focus on the Canon screen. Apparently with the Canon C100 (I saw this in a video, don't remember which one), ISO 100 there is less dynamic range, and is more noticeable than with ISO 100 on DSLRs. My point is, try to film a scene, like trees and blue sky with white clouds, and film at different ISOs while at f8. You can also test skin tones at different ISOs. This way you will know the weaknesses and strengths for certain settings on your camera. When shooting raw, the dynamic range might be fine with ISO 100 vs ISO 800 on the Canon 7D, but why not use the sweet spot for H.264 as well as raw video? Please let me know if I can help in any way, and thanks for your response.

- Paul

Share Your Videos / Re: Ski Touring Film
« on: June 20, 2018, 10:30:44 PM »
Hey Welles,

   Regarding warp stabilizer, read this:

   This article really helped me in getting warp stabilizer to work on all shots.

   Also, I used to use Visionlog, but I now use Cinelog-C. I like Cinelog-C, and cannot go back to Visionlog. If you have any questions before purchasing, talk to Andy600 here on the forum.

   I recommend using Batch_mlv if you're on Windows, and Switch (formerly known as CR2HDR). I really like the software Danne provides (I believe there are more people who have worked on the development of this app)

   Danne is really helpful as well. I've asked him questions on this forum, and he is willing to work with you.

   Also, check out this video:

   You want your histogram to be as close to 0 as possible when exposing to the right. I wouldn't expose to the point where there are no zebras showing, because the exposure will be off by 2 stops, and the image degrades when pushing up in post.

   Also, try to experiment with your ISOs. If you can find what you native ISO is, then it will be helpful for achieving the best image from your sensor.

   On the Canon 7D I shoot at ISO 800 when possible, if not, then 1600. Especially in H.264, the dynamic range is as best as possible.

   Anyways, I hope this was helpful. Please let me know if there is something I wrote that is confusing. I will do my best to help you with the knowledge I have.


- Paul Harwood

Hi Paul, if you read again my post I said I would like to use smartimport2, but it does not work with adobe after effect 2018, I don't get the timeline for each video, it does nothing. There is a new version? seems that smartimport2 only works with Adobe After Effect cc, it might work with cc 2014 according to some guys.
There is something else I could try to make it to work Paul, otherwise I am looking around trying to find After effect cc, Thanks for your advice


Hey tigerbengal2009,

   I'm currently using Adobe After Effects CC 2018 (Version 15.0.1 - Build 73) and Smart Import 2 is working. This is the version that works with Miraizon ProRes 4444 XQ (Version 2) before Adobe stopped supporting 32 bit Quicktime.

   This video by DeafEyeJedi might help you:

    He's very helpful on this forum.

    He's on Mac.

   I'm going to be away for a few days, but I'll be glad to help you pinpoint what the issue is. You can try looking where you put the script for Smart Import 2, if it's in the right location. I currently have it working on Windows 10 in: Local Disk (C): / Program Files / Adobe / Adobe After Effects CC 2018 / Support Files / Scripts

   Also, try placing Smart Import as well as Smart Import 2 both in that location.

   We'll figure this out, not to worry!

- Paul Harwood

I love Cinelog-c , but  the time I spent importing to AE then render every single shot is not fun....Can someone give me an idea how this process can be in some way improved, I don't mind to import one by one of the shots, but creating the timelines and  render them is the part   that is time consuming and boring. I have been looking around, found the great  smartimport2 script, but that does not work with the latest AE only with the original CC 12.2, which I don't have. How do you guys process your shots? workflow?....Andy600 , DeafEyeJedi any advice??? Thank you in advance.

Use the Smart Import 2 script for Adobe After Effects. It saves me so much time, and I think you will enjoy. If you have any questions please let me know. Here is a link:

- Paul

Hardware and Accessories / Re: New Canon flash
« on: February 28, 2018, 03:09:39 PM »
Hey garry23,

   Thanks for sharing! I actually prefer this:

   I still use the Canon 430EX II with this, and love the combination.

- Paul

Hardware and Accessories / Re: Powerbank
« on: February 28, 2018, 06:26:11 AM »
Hey ibrahim,

   I forgot to mention something. With the powerbank, you can take the leather cover off (has a clip, good for tripod use, but not run and gun), and attach industrial strength velcro to the bottom. Then put industrial strength velcro on a cheese plate. All you need is a 1/4" male thread to cold shoe adapter, and now you can add this to the top of your DSLR. If you want to use a mic, you can add an additional accessory. I'll link these below.

Hope this helps!

- Paul

Hardware and Accessories / Re: Powerbank
« on: February 27, 2018, 01:48:34 AM »
Hey ibrahim,

    You're welcome! I've read mixed reviews of that product. Might be worth a try, but might be hard to return since I believe the seller is in China.

- Paul

Hardware and Accessories / Re: Powerbank
« on: February 22, 2018, 05:03:47 PM »
Hello ibrahim,

   Sorry to hear about your batteries. Bummer. Here is a link to a product I use with my Canon 7D, and T3i:

   I have had no issues in the past two years of using these power banks. The product in the link provided works for the 5d Mark III as well :)

- Paul

Hardware and Accessories / Re: 550d VAF-txi filter problem
« on: February 22, 2018, 03:50:04 PM »
Hey summervibes,

    I had the Error 20 issue with my Canon T3i when using the VAF-TXI. It was resolved when I got the shutter replaced by Canon. It cost $250, in 2015. My recommendation is get an estimate from this place in New York:

    Apparently it is cheaper to get a shutter replacement.

    I love shooting with VAF filters, they really do help remove aliasing and moire.

- Paul

General Help Q&A / Re: flash tweaks, not working on T3i
« on: September 06, 2017, 01:33:01 AM »
Hey MarkMcCombs,

    I'm not sure if this is remotely close to the solution, but do you by any chance have a hot shoe protector and are using the flash separately? I remember on the T3i the flash settings act odd when there is a protector on top, and it's possible it could be affecting these features. Sorry if this is not close to the right answer, but it's all I have, so I figured I would share. I hope this helps.

- Paul

Hey davilucho,

    This problem has been going on for a couple years. I had the same issue in 2015. Can you try importing the project into After Effects? Davinci Resolve can export a Premiere Pro XML (14 Beta Version), but I don't think that would solve what you are trying to do. I think if you import you project into After Effects, do the VFX, it will automatically update in Premiere Pro. I could be wrong, but it's worth a try right? I hope this helps, and if you have any questions or concerns please don't hesitate to ask.

- Paul

Hello domo94,

    Thanks so much for your kind words! I appreciate it. I usually try to use the latest nightly build. There are so many improvements being made, and they can be read in the changelog  under the build. I still love this camera, and the VAF filter really does help. Would you like me to post the settings I use? Would that be helpful? I

     One other note: I use Cinelog-C for Adobe Camera Raw in After Effects and the Smart Import 2 Script. You have the same flexibility as raw as transcoding to ProRes 4444 XQ.

     I haven't gotten into dark frame subtraction yet, but want to soon as that will be very beneficial for low light shooting. Neat Video does a great job though, especially with the Mix with original percentage option. Magic Lantern raw video has a filmic grain to it, so this option is awesome.

    I'm willing to post some settings just let me know.

- Paul

Raw Video / Re: best format to publish raw video?
« on: August 15, 2017, 10:24:25 PM »
Neat video has an option to use a percentage of the original footage noise and Neat Video's noise reduction. It's called Mix with Original. Raw video from Canon DSLRs have filmic grain, so I really like this method. I do noise reduction at the end in Premiere Pro with ProRes 4444 XQ transcoded clips with Cinelog-C.

I just recently discovered this on my 7D playing back 1728 x 734 (I believe - it was 2:1 aspect ratio) at 29.97 with Exact fps override. I was using a monitor, and had Global Draw on when recording. Canon Preview and Force HDMI-VGA to have smooth recording. I was still able to playback the footage, but the error makes the playback menu options glitch. I had to restart the camera to playback, and the glitching was still there. I also had mlv_rec, mlv_play, and mlv_sound all enabled.

General Chat / Re: Cinematographers on board?
« on: August 10, 2017, 11:44:01 AM »
Hey kiron123,

     Send me a message, I'll help you out as best I can.

- Paul

Raw Video / Re: best format to publish raw video?
« on: August 10, 2017, 11:42:03 AM »
Hey bpv5P,

     I'm simply giving my suggestions to favvomannen. Your workflow might be different. I personally find it easier to edit (I can still bring back highlights like raw CDNG) a log profile (Cinelog-C is what I use) in a friendly codec. GoPro Cineform RGBA 12 Bit in After Effects will work great for favvomannen. And I've read online working in 32 bit float is beneficial vs 16 bit. Again everyone has their own workflow.

- Paul

Hey favvomannen,

     I would recommend for future projects working in After Effects in 32 bit float. I think you will really like the workflow of GoPro Cineform in Cinelog-C. It's friendly to edit with, you can pull back highlights, and Adobe works well with it. I hope this helps you out, and please let me know if you have any other questions.

- Paul

Raw Video / Re: best format to publish raw video?
« on: August 09, 2017, 06:44:46 AM »
Hello favvomannen,

    I recommend transcoding with Cinelog-C to GoPro Cineform 12 bit before editing in a timeline. That way when the finsl project is exported to mp4 there is less degredstionnin quality.

Hello bpv5P,

     I've used MLVProducer to extract Cinema DNGs (no compression) for one project. It was good, and I still recommend taking Cinema DNGs from MLVProducer and bringing into Adobe Camera Raw through After Effects. Andy600 gave you an explanation about Cinelog-C. I am glad I purchased it, and have no regrets.

- Paul

Raw Video / Re: best format to publish raw video?
« on: August 08, 2017, 04:41:12 PM »
Hey favvomannen,

     Are you on Mac or Windows? I recommend extracting your DNGs (Cinema DNG Lossless is best) and bring into After Effects. Use the Smart Import 2 Script for After Effects (found here on the forum), and this will load all of your clips and sync the audio files. I recommend converting to a flat profile in Adobe Camera Raw (Cinelog-C is the best I've used - you can purchase online for $50), and convert all the sequences into ProRes 4444 XQ with Alpha if on Mac, or GoPro Cineform RGBA 12 Bit if on Windows. Then grade and edit in Premiere Pro. This is called transcoding, and will be easier to edit on your computer and solves a lot of headaches with Adobe dynamic link. I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions.

- Paul

Raw Video / Re: Canon 7D Raw Video 30 fps External Monitor Issues
« on: August 07, 2017, 03:15:45 AM »
Hello everyone,

    I forgot to mention one thing with the successful 29.97 raw video recording with a monitor:

    I plugged my monitor into my 7D. I turned my monitor on first, let everything load. Then I turned the 7D on. Not sure if this also takes into account, but I figured I would mention it.

- Paul

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