Messages

Hey Dihelson.

    Ok great, thanks for understanding. Much appreciated.

- Paul Harwood

HeyKelvinK,

     Can you elaborate on not reformatting Sandisk Extreme Pro cards after first ML install? I did this recently and all my files got corrupted. Had to use recovery software and repair the mov files (H.264). I was afraid I got a counterfeit card, but talked to Sandisk and found my 64 GB card to be one of the first models of Extreme Pro. I sent it to them to receive a new one (Lifetime Warranty). I shot with a T3i with movie restart enabled. I would really appreciate a response. Thanks so much.

- Paul Harwood

Hey Dihelson,

    I've noticed when shooting for over an hour of movie restart option enabled the T3i gets hot but is still able to shoot continuously in liveview. For the 7D, the temperature doesn't get as hot as the T3i, at least to my knowledge. I know it's not the 5D Mark 2 or 700D, but I figured I would share my experiences with my cameras.

- Paul Harwood


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Hey dmilligan,

     I am in the process of receiving a new card, and if the same problem persists, I will follow the steps Alex posted in that forum post. Thank you for sending it to me so I could read.

- Paul Harwood


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Hey Walter,

     Thank you for your reply. I tried Photorec, but I didn't have any luck. I might've not used it correctly. However before using Photorec I used Wondershare which recovered the Mov files, log files, and Dat files like I stated before. I started to get worried the Sandisk 64 GB 95 MB/SEC SD card, which I bought from Used Marketplace via Amazon, was counterfeit. So I called Sandisk, and sent a photo and they confirmed it's authentic however it was part of their first model series, which is why the colors looked different. Since there is a Lifetime Warranty, Sandisk is sending me a new card once they receive mine. I will test this new card once received to pinpoint if the issue might be related to the movie restart option via Magic Lantern.


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I apologize Dihelson for being rude. I was a bit frustrated with the problem I was having and must've taken it out on you.


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I can confirm this happens on the T3i as well. Is it possible to fix this bug in the Nightly Builds for the T3i as well? Thanks.


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So how did you get Magic Lantern on your cards? You need a card reader in order to do that.

Hey Walter,

     Thank you for your response. I used the SD card reader in my Macbook Pro Late 2013 Model as well a a Transcend USB 3.0 reader (which has a Micro SD and CF card slot as well). I did recover files through a Wondershare Raw Recovery Program, but they had .DAT files and all the .MOV files had static sounds and no pictures. Have you heard of this before? I had the movie record restart option selected while filming the event, which recorded many .MOV files because of the record limit of 12 minutes. I tested the card beforehand with Blackmagic Disk Speed Test and there were good speeds. I'm not sure what happened, but I have had this problem before with SD cards and my T3i. I used a battery grip and third party lens, Tokina 11-16 f2.8 DX II. I read a bit on the website you linked, thank you for posting. Besides reading on the site, is there a card reader that you recommend? Maybe the Macbook Pro's SD card slot isn't up to par? Thanks for all your help.

- Paul Harwood

Hello everyone,

     I have run into this problem a few times now.

     I shot an event on a T3i and a 7D, and for some reason the Sandisk Extreme Pro 64 GB cannot be read by my Macbook Pro. It says: This disk you inserted was not readable by this computer, and gives me options to initialize, eject, or ignore.

    I've tried a couple disk recovery options, but no luck recovering any files. I tried Stellar Phoenix and Disk Warrior.

    I read online about using Terminal, but am a little confused so I thought not to try that yet.

    This happened on the May 7th Nightly Build. I thought a couple cards did this before because of having to use Macboot with 64 GB cards and the stable version before adding nightly builds. Whenever I add a new nightly build, I choose replace files.

   Maybe I was supposed to combine files? Maybe that is what is making my cards unreadable?

   Anyway, if someone can offer any ideas on what I can do to recover these video files that would be great. They are H.264 1080p files.

   And if I am doing something wrong with the installation of nightly builds, someone please let me know what I can do different.

    I would really appreciate any help on this. Thanks.

- Paul Harwood

Hey Samueli,

     Watch this video tutorial about importing dng sequences to After Effects using Smart Import 2: https://vimeo.com/123651925

     Here is the forum post with the download for Smart Import 2: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12422.0;nowap

     I hope this helps!

- Paul Harwood



     

Hey _OLLE_,

     You're welcome, glad to help out! I also forgot to mention, using a flat picture style with H.264 video will greatly reduce aliasing. I believe it reduces moire too, but don't quote me on that. The only other thing I'm unsure is if the aliasing comes back when sharpening is applied in post production. 720p has a lot more aliasing and moire than 1080p though. I personally use Visiontech picture profile, which also comes with VisionColor. I believe it's $10. I have heard great things from people using the Cinestyle profile too. Hope this helps.

- Paul Harwood

Hey _OLLE_,

     I upgraded from the 600D (still use it) to a 7D, main reason being for raw video and photography. I bought it used with a battery grip (prevents overheating) and two Canon batteries for a very reasonable price. I actually met up with someone of Craig's List in the summer of 2015 to buy it, and still talk to him about photography. He took excellent care of it.

     If you are on a tight budget, and cannot afford the 5D Mark III like me, I would buy the VAF-7D Anti Aliasing Filter from Mosaic Engineering to avoid the aliasing and moire issue for 60p. Many people have a misconception that this filter doesn't work for 720p. I have spoke with this company many times, and although the filter isn't specifically designed for it, it does work. And I have tested this, it does work.

     You can also look into a plugin called Twixtor, to enhance the slow motion from the 7D. It is by REVision Effects, and creates more frames than was actually recorded in the camera.

     Just keep in mind, you will need a 1000x or 1066x card to pull of 60p. I recommend Lexar or Sandisk, but people have reported KomputerBay works good too.

     Since the 7D is a crop sensor camera, it is not the best in low light. If you are shooting video where you don't have as much light as you want available, and you have to bump up the ISO, you can use Neat Video to remove the digital noise from the 7D. I actually use this even in good lighting when I have the time, however the 7D has more of a natural grain when shot in raw, which is an advantage.

     Please let me know if you have any questions. I have not regretted buying the 7D at all, and absolutely love it! Many of my recent videos were shot with the 7D in raw video, if you want to take a look. www.vimeo.com/paulharwood856

    I hope this helps!

- Paul Harwood

Hey dynazor,

     I completely agree with everyone's suggestions, lighting is key. I would like to add, however, to compensate for the 600D's noise issue, a denoiser.

     I recommend Neat Video, but if you are a student, and on a low budget, you can bargain with Red Giant for Magic Bullet Denoiser for $50 versus $100. I simply chatted with them before purchasing, and they had no problem with it.

    If you aren't a student, I understand, these softwares can be a bit pricy. But, they make a load of difference. I always recommend using low ISOs, but this software works wonders for a situation where you don't have lights and just want to capture that shot.

    That being said, lighting will definitely make your sensor shine. And like you said, using a flat profile will help a lot. I personally use Visiontech.

    By the way, I have the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 VC and absolutely love it for video. Great choice.

    I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions on what I have said.

- Paul Harwood

Hello Magic Lantern Forum,

     I wasn't sure where to post this issue I'm having, but here it is.

     While recording on the Canon 7D and T3i with the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 VC lens, I have had a couple times while recording H.264 1080p video (both at 23.976 fps and 29.97 fps), the exposure suddenly shifts and is darker. From what I read, this might be a focus shift issue. I'm also using a Sigma 72mm UV filter.

     Can anyone clarify what this is, if they've also had it, and if there is a solution for it?

    Here are a few links and the times with the problem:

    At around 1:50 - https://vimeo.com/133944358

    At around 5:58 - https://vimeo.com/151543998

    Thank you.

    - Paul Harwood

Hey everyone,

     Here are links to the 48 hour film.

https://vimeo.com/paulharwood856/thosewhodig

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1DYQXlGURk

    Post production took longer, but it was still written and shot in 48 hours. We transcoded in ProRes 4444 XQ using VisionLog to retain detail. If anyone has any questions please let me know. This was a great experience.

- Paul Harwood

https://vimeo.com/paulharwood856/thosewhodig

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1DYQXlGURk

Those Who Dig was written and shot in 48 hours.

This was a 48 hour film challenge that was done for fun.

The post production process took longer than expected, and was accompanied with some technical issues.

So, we were not able to complete the entire film by the deadline.

But, we did finish.

The challenge started at 10:07 p.m. on Friday, January 29th.

The film was finished at 10:00 p.m. on Thursday, February 11th.

Joseph Ufer gave the requirements for the challenge:

Genre: Dark Comedy

Character: Jeb Clinton

Prop: Harmonica

Line: "Those who dig ditches will always have their shovels in the sand."

If anyone has any questions about equipment that was used, editing software, editing techniques, colors, or anything else please let me know. This was a great experience. We have a 48 hour shoot starting tomorrow, but it will be shot in H.264. However, for productions without a 48 hour limit, we will be shooting raw. I hope you enjoy Those Who Dig.

- Paul Harwood

Hey dmilligan,

     I changed the settings on MLVFS to just Vertical Stripes fix, and everything is so much faster now! Thank you so much, I'm so relieved!

- Paul Harwood

Hello everyone,

     I have had some issues today with handling my .mlv files with MLVFS. I am running OS X Fuse 2.8.3.

      For some reason, After Effects CC 2015 (Version 13.7 - most recent) is not communicating well with my Macbook Pro, Late 2013, with a Nvidia GeForce GT 750M Graphics Card, and MLVFS.

     I removed OS X Fuse in System Preferences, and reinstalled, but I still had the same issue.

     (A few weeks ago I had downgraded from OS X El Capitan 10.11.3 to OS X Mavericks 10.9.5. The main reasons were because of many crashes, force quits, and Nvidia Cuda wasn't communicating with Premiere Pro CC 2015 when editing. - wasn't showing effects/dissolves, and I was forced to use OpenCL by OS X El Capitan. So I had downgraded to Mavericks since when I bought my Macbook Pro that was the operating system that was installed. Apparently the operating system the computer is initially installed with works the best, from what I've read.

    So after still having After Effects freeze with MLVFS, I called Adobe, and they told me the recent After Effects updates require OS X Yosemite 10.10.5. (This is odd since last week they told me Mavericks 10.9.5 was the minimal required version.)

     This afternoon I did a clone of my internal drive, made a bootable OS X Yosemite drive with Disk Maker X, did a clean install of 10.10.5, and installed my programs and files from the clone I made of my internal drive.

     After all of this, I still had the same exact issue, now with OS X Yosemite 10.10.5.

     So I called Adobe, and they told me I might need to convert the dng files to TIFs, and then import those. This completely disregards the point of MLVFS and an online directory's convenience. I have done this in the past, and it is quite time consuming, and takes up a lot of hard drive space.

    I asked Adobe if a clean install of Adobe Creative Cloud and the programs would help. They said it was worth a try.

    So, I uninstalled all Adobe applications and the Creative Cloud Desktop Manager. I couldn't get the desktop manager to reinstall, so I had to reinstall OS X Yosemite 10.10.5.

    I now have all my Adobe programs working and Creative Cloud Desktop Manager as well. However, I am still having After Effects give the spinning beach ball with MLVFS.

   
    The only other possible reasons I can think of that may have caused MLVFS to act odd are:

    Using OnyX software to clean my computer, possibly deleting important files (prior to this morning).

    The folder's name was changed and moving it back and forth between the internal drive and a G Drive Thunderbolt/USB 3.0, possibly confused files.

    But what's weird is, MLVFS loads the files rather quickly. Google Chrome and Safari are pretty equal in speed, so using one over the other wasn't the issue. But I cannot copy the MLVFS files and put them on another hard drive now, which I could do before (I can but it says it will take 18 hours for 64 gb, which makes no sense).

    I'm using Bad Pixel Fix at Aggressive, Vertical Lines Fix On, and Fix Noise Pattern On.

    Bottom line, something's not right. If anyone has any input on what I can do to make MLVFS and After Effects run smoother I would greatly appreciate it. I apologize if what I typed is a bit confusing, I tried to make it as clear as possible. I just wanted to make sure I included everything I tried today in order to pinpoint what might be causing the problem. Thanks so much.

- Paul Harwood

Hey ZachGoodwin,

    So glad to see you fixed your T2i error message. I wasn't telling you to sell your T2i, I'm aware it's perfectly fine. What I was saying was, if you were considering paying to replace the shutter again, you could buy one more T2i instead, possibly without the error message (since some T2is have it and some don't according to Mosaic Engineering).

- Paul Harwood

Hello ibrahim,

     I had a similar problem in the past with the T3i. There is a solution. I will provide some links to forum posts, but watch this video first: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hn-djQijUZE

Here is my post from the summer about having the same problem, and the resolutions people came up with: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=15653.msg154979#msg154979

A few more posts to check out:

http://magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=11664.0

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=13465.0

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=11942.0

Please let me know if I can help in any way, and please let us know how this goes. I hope you are able to resolve your issue.

- Paul Harwood

Hey ZachGoodwin,

     So sorry to hear you are getting the error message again. I can feel your frustration, I know I was at least when I first experienced this error before having to replace the shutter. I would try calling Canon, and see if they can trouble shoot. It seems Mosaic Engineering has done everything they can do, but it's definitely worth a try to call Canon and tell them this error came up again, even after a little time passed since replacing the shutter. Please let us know how this goes.

     Just a thought, a Canon T2i is pretty affordable used nowadays, and this error seems to be a problem with only some of the Canon T2is and T3is, according to Mosaic Engineering when I spoke to them. I also spoke to FrankLad, and he said the same thing, if I remember correct.

     So, possibly spending money on replacing the shutter a second time, it might be a better idea to purchase a used T2i, and use your current one as a backup camera (so your main one has no aliasing). I hope this makes sense, and that everything works out for you. Please let me know if I can be of any help.

- Paul Harwood

Hey RTW_kat,

     Thanks to ItsMeLenny, I just thought of another idea. If you don't have enough money for the Rode VideoMic Pro, you can purchase the Irig Pre and a few accessories based on DSLR Film Noob's video on youtube. Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Io-JR3aUqII This will boost your mic's signal over the AGC and give a similar boost like the Rode VideoMic Pro. I hope this helps!

- Paul Harwood

Hello RTW_kat,

     To my knowledge, the T2i has AGC disable in the Canon menu, whereas in my case for the T3i, it was only possible with adding Magic Lantern.

     Have you tried Analog Gain? Or Mic Boost? You don't want to touch digital gain, unless you need to hear the audio while monitoring with headphones. Even then I would suggest some sort of headphone amplifier in that case. You could combine the headphone amplifier with the Sescom 550D/7D cable which is a usb to 3.5mm female that allows you to monitor audio while recording on the T2i (I'm pretty sure this is the case, but then again I have a T3i, might be slightly different). Also, it is very important to record in levels of -12 db ranging to -6 db.

     I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions or additional help.

- Paul Harwood

Hey surami,

     Alright awesome, thanks so much. I'll make sure to search that, and post back here if I found a way to do it. Awesome grade!

- Paul Harwood