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I haven't had the time to read this thread correctly, but I wonder if it has been established whether or not you can write to the USB and the SD card at the same time?

If you could do this, then in theory, and the advantage would probably only be for the 600D and 550D, you could store half a frame on a usb device, and the other half on the SD card, allowing you to store at a higher resolution, which I estimate would be 1280*720 (assuming that the combined transfer rate is 40mbps which gives you 720p on the 650D and 700D) on the 600D, maybe a stop lower to make up for the processing work requiered.

Of course this presents several issues not only for deving in ML but also client side, and how to process the video, combining info from both files into a new file. If the ML devs made this type of recording possible, assuming it is possible, then I offer to write a Windows App to process the raw files.

Edit: Also, I wouldn't rule out hooking up a SD card to the micro usb port with a card reader, or if necessary a custom card reader.

Edit2:

No it's not, you just have to offload to a computer/tablet/raspberrypi/whatever that acts as the host, thats running a program that will receive the data via PTP. One of the many complications of implementing this (alluded to by g3gg0), is the need to write this client.

I might know someone who could do this, but I can't guarantee it.

So I've been fooling around with my 600D and RAW video and found interesting results. While I'm getting a whole lot more detail, I'm also getting a whole lot more noise (I'm using auto ettr but I only have a kit lens and have only been able to shoot in poor low light condtions, will try shooting in daylight to see if the problem is strictly related to low light).

As a windows user, I'm pretty confused as to how the workflow goes with this type of footage. I tried MLRawViewer, but sometimes it would corrupt my video when using sRGB curve. I keep reading about different workflows but I still not sure which one to use. I want to end up with ProRes clips that are upscaled to 1080p and just use those in premiere (anyone got any workflows that can work like this on windows?)

Another issue, some clips will have what appears to be major chromatic aberration in a very strong magenta color. Or sometimes there will be a random pixel or group of pixels that is 100% magenta in the middle of nowhere. How does one fix or prevent this?

I'm considering purchasing a better camera, but I can't decide between the 700D, 6D or 5D2. I have a limited budget, and any of those do higher res raw than my 600D, but I don't know which of the 3 is the best investment.

Regarding the previous, the 5D2 does not have exfat according to the chart in the ML cameras raw res, does that mean every 4gb the shot is broken up into another file (loosing frames in the process)?

Any tutorials on how to use Auto ETTER properly, I haven't found one that I completely understand yet.

Thats all for now, but I might have more questions. Sorry for being redundant and asking what is probably old and boring questions, but I just don't know where to start when it comes to RAW.

EDIT:
I just saw that there is a childboard for workflow, and I was able to find post process tutorials that made much more sense than the bits and pieces I picked up from random threads, that helps alot, no need to answer post process questions now. My main question is however which of the 3 mentioned cameras  would be better for continuous 24p or 30p raw shooting? I'm inclined to go with the 700D because of price and if 960*518 impresses me, I think 1280*720 raw will do so even more. Also, it means I wouldn't have to buy any new batteries and my SD cards would work on it.

I already do this, but I'm wondering if there isn't another way that might be more precise. I did come across an article where you manually adjust the white balance using a grey a card and histogram and I think I might experiment with that for now.

Hello, I was wondering if anyone here would like to discuss how they white balance before shooting video? I play it by eye and usually get it right or close enough that very little CC is needed, but sometimes I do miss the mark. Is there a more  methodical way using magic lanterns histogram, vector scope or other tools? Please share! 

Yes that is the problem, the camera goes to iso 3200 and I get clipped highlights, ISO 1600 is nicely exposed and less noisy, it would be good if we had program function for video or a way for limiting autoexposure parameters in videomode.

The lastest nightly build it does work, along with manual magic lantern audio controls. I haven't had the time to test it 100%, I don't know how it works 100%, turning it off and on again seems to reset the headphone monitoring, but I have done it and it does work.

Hey folks, I do wedding and other social events videography, and have been using magic lantern for a time, but I notice that some times there isn't enough time to set things manually without missing the first few vital seconds of an action, for instance, from the bright exterior of the church to the dark interior, I have to change the aperture but also the ISO, I kinda wish iso was automatic (maybe even aperture) but limited to only a certain level (max iso 1600). Is this possible some how? Auto iso in the interior of the church flies up to 3200 when 1600 is fine, due to the weird lighting conditions of the church.

Suggestions?

Unfortunately that battery grip doesn't do my any good as I am working with the T3i / 600D, not the 60D, but thanks for the suggestion anyways.

Hello folks, I can confirm that the culprit is the vivitar battery grip, and apparrently NOT the vivitar batteries. The battery grip tray only conducts 3 of the 4 battery contact pins and the grip probably constantly sends a battery full signal to the camera. If anyone knows of a battery grip for the T3i that you can confirm sends a battery reading, I would love to hear it, as I need to replace this one shortly.

Thanks in advance.

Im unsure whether I should post this here or in off topic, because I don´t think this is an ML thing. I was filming the party of a baptism today, and I recently got the BG-E8 battery grip with two vivitar batteries. I decided to use the vivitar batteries first, and all was fine, however right after finishing a vital shot, the battery life indicator went from full to empty and the camera shut down almost immediately because the batteries had died. Now I then put in two other generic batteries, and I didn´t run them out. My question is, is this normal behavior with all batteries? Just an instant shutdown when the batteries die? Or is it because of the vivitar batteries? Does any one else have this battery grip and can tell me whether other batteries report their life when used in the grip? Is this because of ML?

Thanks in advance.

I had already installed ML with a 32gb, so this is not a first install. The problem I am referring to is the one found on the forums regarding the corruption of a 64gb sd card on rebooting the camera. The problem mentioned here:

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=10399.0

Is this still a problem or has this been fixed?

EDIT:
I tested out the 64gb card by formatting it to exfat and using eoscard on my pc, and so far it seems to be working fine with the latest nightly build. I'm just paranoid it might give me a problem on a long shoot. If anyone can confirm or deny whethere these two factors are a problem, it would be greatly appreciated.

I ordered a Sandisk Extreme Pro 95mb/s 64gb about a week ago, and it should be arriving between today and tomorrow and now I find out that it has problems with Magic Lantern and the 600D. Does anyone know if this has been fixed in the latest nightly build or functioning workaround?

Does this also happen with 32gb cards?

Thanks in advance.

This might be my final contribution to this thread, I did another shot with an oncoming storm using the flaat 10 picture profile, and I was pleasantly surprised.

ISO: 160
Aperture: 3.5
Shutter: 1/50
WB: 4800k
Flaat 10 picture profile

Filters:
Neat Noise Reduction
Noise @ 0.4%
Luma Curve
RGB Balance
Fast Color Corrector
Unsharp mask @ 135

Shots demonstrating different picture styles on same exposure settings:

ISO: 80
Shutter: 1/80
Aperture: 16
Using 18-55 kit lens, at ~21mm (34mm equiv)

Wow! This was awesome, now I know what image stabilizer I want. Great work!

Good work! I really liked how well exposed the shot was, nothing was over or underexposed. Can you tell me what camera, lens and settings you were using? Great job!

Original:

Color corrected:

Color corrected test 2:

Using 600D, 18-55 Kit Lens, Cinestyle, CBR at default.

Suggestions,opinions and criticism are welcomed.

EDIT: Forgot to post my settings:

Focal Length: ~21mm (34mm equiv, trying to get 35mm equiv)
ISO: 80 (HTP not used).
Aperture: Varied between 3.5 - 5.6
Shutter Speed: 1/50 (~47.9 I think, I was messing around with some settings)
White Balance: 4800K
Picture Style: Cinestyle

Hello,

I've been experimenting with the latest nightly build of magic lantern for the 600D/T3i and using the cinestyle picture style. I have set my zebras for underexposure at 7%(18) and for overexposure at 79%(201) as it seems that anything over this gives me a blown highlight. I'm wondering if these values are correct or if I don't know how to expose properly. I'm looking to get the greatest dynamic range and detail in highlights and shadows. It would also help if a workflow and color correction technique be included, as I haven't nailed that down either (I'm on windows, I have access to premiere and aftereffects, h264 video isn't very cpu friently and I can't convert it to prores, so I wonder what the windows equivalent workflow is?). I will be going to the park on saturday for a reshoot (I did a large shoot this last saturday but I am far from satisfied with the results) and I plan on posting it on the forums to receive further suggestions.

Sorry if I am asking too many questions, I just need a bit of general overall orientation.

Cheers.