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To get more frames for slow motion change region to NTSC and shoot 60fps. That way you can slow down to 40% (48% with 50fps) without adding frames with twixtor or optical flow (fcpx).

So are there any tricks you can use to get focus right when you have a lens that is all optics without any electronics?

To add; if I have a static object then I use the 10x and focus prior to record. Using a small aperture helps keeping stuff within dof.

Gonna fix a pin/stick for the focus ring on the Sigma for easier focusing.

The display's resolution is less than full HD if I remember correctly (around half), so even with a viewfinder you might find magic zoom (or 10x magnification triggered at zoom - I just found this one recently) useful. Also, what they say is that having a viewfinder helps keeping the camera stable... anyway, I would be very interested to hear how it works out!

Got my V3 today. Took a week from dispatch.
Together with magic zoom triggered by focusing it works really great for manual focusing (tip: don't rely on the green bars solely). The magnifier also magnifies the low res lcd so using 10x zoomhelp in low light actually makes it harder to focus.

Only played with it indoors after sunset but like it alot. I can imagine that not being able to use the loupe with the lcd flipped will be an issue. I might have to do that mod thing on youtube. We'll see.

weldroid, I can confirm that the Sigma 30mm focus ring will trigger the magic zoom.

Edit: tried the follow focus with the loupe and guess it can be handy in some situations.

Neat Video for denoising. Highly recommended. They have a trial version. Limit: 720p with a logo but try it. It rocks and open ups higher ISOs.
Magic Bullets denoiser is another option. Haven't tried it though.

When it comes to shakes it adds to the cinema effect and you get that even with IS which is kewl BUT the microstutter that comes from handheld without IS is terrible and no smoother to date can remove it without "destroying" the clip. imho of course!

"adding support". That all those expensive smooth cam stabilizer toys do really.
Shooting with my HV20 my shots are shaky but when the wife shoots it's butter smooth - the camera is more heavy for her. :-)

I'd definitely get something like that for a manual lens. I guess it doesn't help with video right? Also, as I have understood the 600D does not officially support this mod, so it would probably break the warranty...

Just for optical viewfinder and not the LCD.
Don't know about the warranty. Canon posts instructions for replacing focus glass for other moduls so shouldn't be a problem as you always can restore.

Hey,
i have a precious suggestion about using fast lenses (more than 2.. A hint that is anyway valid for all the cameras and all the lenses, to have a little better focus managemente in shooting still using viewfinder.
Almost every canon camera. The default focusing screen on every camera is "a" type. For example canon 60d come out with ef-a focusing screen by default. The 5d MKII comes out with Eg-a.
And this screens are optimized for brightness. This means that on the viewfinder you don't really see what the sensor will take, but a brightened, less precise, version.
I changed the focusing screen on my 60d a week after buying my first 1.4 lens, because of a lot of problems in finding the correct focus with it. And now i have a ef-s instead of ef-a. And wow, this is really different. You have a more consistent visual preview of where is the slice of focus (the ef-a gived the impression of a bigger area in focus that the real one).
Of course this modification dosen't change the live view, or the quality of pictures taken, it's only about better seeing in viewfinder. A cons of this focusing screen is that you loose a little brightness, so, especially when focusing in lowlight situations or with very closed apertures in manual lenses, you can have some problems, but in my experience nothing serious. I found a great benefit, for a little amount of money (and you can change it by yourself, really simple task). And the less brightness disadvantage it's only matter of getting used, then all works better

Been looking at them prismas before. My first camera, Minolta X300 had a split-image type and I loved it. However I'm concerned with the darkening of the viewfinder. My 600D has mirrors and not a prism so already there I have a more darkened viewfinder. With a 60D with the pentaprism it's another story.
I'll suck on it for a bit. Might test it. The katzeye with Optibrite is $160. I'll put it on my christmas wish list. :-)

Yeah, it really looked smaller on the photos, hell it even looked smaller in that glass cabinet they've kept all the precious L glass  mind you, it didn't LOOK very different from those, apart from the obvious difference in paint job.

At this point I am starting to admire my cheap plastic kit lens more and more... I mean it has decent IS, auto-focus that beats the Tamron (according to my limited experience in the shop), perfectly usable range and image quality that is more than enough for video. It is shocking how much more plastic, metal and precision glass is needed to get that F/2.8 constant max aperture.

At this point I am not sure that the pro's really justify the price tag, and it is clear that - for me at least - none of the 3rd party alternatives would bring enough gain in usability to bother.

Right!
Buying the Sigma 30mm prime has made me appreciate my zoom with IS/USM much more.

The way I shoot video is mostly handheld so IS is a must. Then I prefer the Quick Focus over manual cause the Focus Peak and small LCD doesn't work 100% for me, so a good HSM/USM is a must. I also want to be able to change focal length without swapping lenses or filming 40cm from the object so a zoom it is. Finally, f2.8 is the lowest I need to go as the shallow DoF and focusing becomes an issue with bigger apertures.
So the Canon 17-55 is perfect...except for its weight and size which really is a dealbreaker for me. If it was the size of my current Canon 15-85 (unfortunately with variabel aperture) then I'd sell all my other lenses and buy it instantly.
Ohh, well. Some day perhaps.

The "advanced menu" option together with the possibility to hide never/seldom used items is great.

Haven't read the hole thread but hope that in the process of changing the colors that you also look at the logical build and nomenclature/terminology of the menu.

Thank you for your hard work!!

Thanks for the info. Checked that other thread and this thread is obsolete.

ML reminds me of my first VCR. It was built by and for tech folks.
Now fine-tuning the layout and logic of the menus might not seem like a big deal but it would do alot for the impression of ML.
I'm sure you could find a ML user out there who could help out. 

Just a tip.

Let us know to what extent it is possible to fix that camera shake in post!

Tried with the internal stabiliser in FCPX. It was awful and useless. AE is supposed to be better but I haven't had any luck with post stabilisation no matter what program or settings. For handheld video shots then you need IS to rid that pesky microstutter. A little wobbling adds to the cinema effect me think.
No IS means tripod or atleast monopod.

Done some sharpness comparison (stills) between the Sigma and my Canon EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM and I had to zoom in 300% before I could tell that the Canon was sharper. This was at f4 which is supposed to be the sharpest aperture for both lenses. So no major difference in the real world.

Weldroid, just noticed...you're from Sthlm. :-)
[SWE]Trevligt! Samma här. F'resten, vilken affär hittade du alla objektiven? Har letat efter en foto supermarket typ men bara hittat små butiker...förutom Mediamarkt o liknande.[/SWE]

Good info. There's no shop around here who has all three.
I've come to the same conclusion as you (no hands-on exp though) - the Canon is perfect...except for its size and weight.

I bought a Sigma 30mm f/1.4 prime today. Sweet with the DoF. However f/2.8 would be enough for me as I film people most of the time and the DoF when close to the subject is only 0.36 inches (at f/1.4). Try filming a kid at f/1.4. :-)

Man, the DoF of 1.4 must be handled with care. Easy as hell to get out of focus pics.
Pixel peeping shows ok sharpness though.
A tri- or monopod is almost a must when filming though (no IS)...unless it can be fixed in post. Gonna have a look.

The AF has problems in lo-light.

Bought the Sigma during lunch today. Not overwhelmed by the center sharpness looking at the LCD. And the Chromatic Aberration is there.
Gonna do more tests when I get home screening every pixel with my 27 inches iMac. :-)
The 1.4 is nice though. :-)

You've seen Mel Gibson in We Were Soldiers? ;-)

Thanks screamer. Beautiful pics.
The Samyang is famous. Seems a little big to me though.

Hi,
About the focal lenght, dosen't matter if it's made only for crop sensor, the focal lenght is always referred to fullframe.

Hmm, I didn't know this. That made the world of a difference to me. Thanks for clearing that out. 

Thanks.

One thing I don't get is that the lens is made for cropped so from my pov the focal should be 30 but you say 50 which I've read on other sites. What gives?

And how does the Samyang 35mm stack up IQ wise (I know, no AF)?

I just need a little push so tell me you love it and I'll buy it tomorrow. :-)
Seriously though, seems like a great prime lense with a perfect focal length and aperture.

Anyone with experience from shooting video with this lens and how does it work with ML? Does it report focus distance for instance?

Another thing, the focus ring on other Sigmas have a short span and some even feel loose (don't know the term). How is manual focusing on this one?

And how's the focal length? Is it an allround?

Hmm, interesting. Only $2,995?? Did I miss anything?
Sure, the 1D-C shoots 4k but cost over $13k.

Not possible , you better just film 1920 and output a 720 version if you want to add digital zooms.

C'mon, surely we can get 4k, 440 mbps at 120 fps!!

I've had a quick look at the ML ISOs and I can't say I see any difference (apart from brightness of the 800 over the 700)?

ML 700 ISO (800 with -0.3ev ML) - http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/7652727356_c1e416bb43_h.jpg
Canon 700 ISO (800 with -0.3ev Canon) - http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8017/7652723946_f8b0c6ff22_h.jpg
Canon 800 ISO - http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7274/7652720492_07ecc4670a_h.jpg

Noticed the beer was full in pic one and empty in the net. ;-)

Thanks for the tut. ML is "hidden" with all these kewl feature.
Gonna try it for sure.

Ok thanks, also I have another question.

My questions for now are:

1.) Do we have to have ML installed on all of the memory cards we use? I thought this changed the Canon's firmware of the camera, please let me know.

2.) I usually format my cards after every shoot, if I formate my card I i will erase ML, what is the best way to do this?

Thanks for the help

Found this for you.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/bestpractices


No idea about your last q. ML works very nicely for me.

1.) Do we have to have ML installed on all of the memory cards we use? I thought this changed the Canon's firmware of the camera, please let me know.

You have to install ML on every card you use.

2.) I usually format my cards after every shoot, if I formate my card I i will erase ML, what is the best way to do this?

Try it and you'll find out. :-)