To get more frames for slow motion change region to NTSC and shoot 60fps. That way you can slow down to 40% (48% with 50fps) without adding frames with twixtor or optical flow (fcpx).
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Show posts MenuQuote from: weldroid on July 15, 2012, 09:52:25 AM
So are there any tricks you can use to get focus right when you have a lens that is all optics without any electronics?
Quote from: weldroid on July 27, 2012, 10:24:02 PM
The display's resolution is less than full HD if I remember correctly (around half), so even with a viewfinder you might find magic zoom (or 10x magnification triggered at zoom - I just found this one recently) useful. Also, what they say is that having a viewfinder helps keeping the camera stable... anyway, I would be very interested to hear how it works out!
Quote from: weldroid on August 01, 2012, 12:22:38 PMJust for optical viewfinder and not the LCD.
I'd definitely get something like that for a manual lens. I guess it doesn't help with video right? Also, as I have understood the 600D does not officially support this mod, so it would probably break the warranty...
Quote from: screamer on July 31, 2012, 07:27:47 PMBeen looking at them prismas before. My first camera, Minolta X300 had a split-image type and I loved it. However I'm concerned with the darkening of the viewfinder. My 600D has mirrors and not a prism so already there I have a more darkened viewfinder. With a 60D with the pentaprism it's another story.
Hey,
i have a precious suggestion about using fast lenses (more than 2.. A hint that is anyway valid for all the cameras and all the lenses, to have a little better focus managemente in shooting still using viewfinder.
Almost every canon camera. The default focusing screen on every camera is "a" type. For example canon 60d come out with ef-a focusing screen by default. The 5d MKII comes out with Eg-a.
And this screens are optimized for brightness. This means that on the viewfinder you don't really see what the sensor will take, but a brightened, less precise, version.
I changed the focusing screen on my 60d a week after buying my first 1.4 lens, because of a lot of problems in finding the correct focus with it. And now i have a ef-s instead of ef-a. And wow, this is really different. You have a more consistent visual preview of where is the slice of focus (the ef-a gived the impression of a bigger area in focus that the real one).
Of course this modification dosen't change the live view, or the quality of pictures taken, it's only about better seeing in viewfinder. A cons of this focusing screen is that you loose a little brightness, so, especially when focusing in lowlight situations or with very closed apertures in manual lenses, you can have some problems, but in my experience nothing serious. I found a great benefit, for a little amount of money (and you can change it by yourself, really simple task). And the less brightness disadvantage it's only matter of getting used, then all works better
Quote from: weldroid on July 31, 2012, 09:40:02 PMRight!
Yeah, it really looked smaller on the photos, hell it even looked smaller in that glass cabinet they've kept all the precious L glass mind you, it didn't LOOK very different from those, apart from the obvious difference in paint job.
At this point I am starting to admire my cheap plastic kit lens more and more... I mean it has decent IS, auto-focus that beats the Tamron (according to my limited experience in the shop), perfectly usable range and image quality that is more than enough for video. It is shocking how much more plastic, metal and precision glass is needed to get that F/2.8 constant max aperture.
At this point I am not sure that the pro's really justify the price tag, and it is clear that - for me at least - none of the 3rd party alternatives would bring enough gain in usability to bother.
Quote from: weldroid on July 31, 2012, 09:43:30 PMTried with the internal stabiliser in FCPX. It was awful and useless. AE is supposed to be better but I haven't had any luck with post stabilisation no matter what program or settings. For handheld video shots then you need IS to rid that pesky microstutter. A little wobbling adds to the cinema effect me think.
Let us know to what extent it is possible to fix that camera shake in post!
Quote from: screamer on July 30, 2012, 09:53:13 PMHmm, I didn't know this. That made the world of a difference to me. Thanks for clearing that out.
Hi,
About the focal lenght, dosen't matter if it's made only for crop sensor, the focal lenght is always referred to fullframe.
Quote from: Chungdha on July 27, 2012, 06:37:18 PMC'mon, surely we can get 4k, 440 mbps at 120 fps!!
Not possible , you better just film 1920 and output a 720 version if you want to add digital zooms.
Quote from: SuperHans28 on July 26, 2012, 11:52:52 PM
I've had a quick look at the ML ISOs and I can't say I see any difference (apart from brightness of the 800 over the 700)?
ML 700 ISO (800 with -0.3ev ML) - http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/7652727356_c1e416bb43_h.jpg
Canon 700 ISO (800 with -0.3ev Canon) - http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8017/7652723946_f8b0c6ff22_h.jpg
Canon 800 ISO - http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7274/7652720492_07ecc4670a_h.jpg
Quote from: life4eva on July 26, 2012, 08:03:13 PMFound this for you.
Ok thanks, also I have another question.
My questions for now are:
1.) Do we have to have ML installed on all of the memory cards we use? I thought this changed the Canon's firmware of the camera, please let me know.
2.) I usually format my cards after every shoot, if I formate my card I i will erase ML, what is the best way to do this?
Thanks for the help
Quote from: life4eva on July 26, 2012, 08:03:13 PMYou have to install ML on every card you use.
1.) Do we have to have ML installed on all of the memory cards we use? I thought this changed the Canon's firmware of the camera, please let me know.
Quote from: life4eva on July 26, 2012, 08:03:13 PMTry it and you'll find out. :-)
2.) I usually format my cards after every shoot, if I formate my card I i will erase ML, what is the best way to do this?
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