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Messages - sutobe

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Ich schau mir das später mal an, aber schonmal im vorraus DANKE!

I'll look at this later, but thanks in advance!


nicely done, let's hope I can learn something more about some features of ML

Ist abonniert ;-)

Thanks :-)

hm alright I'll upload some, don't have Flickr Pro though


here's the link to the Flickr Album.

Am I supposed to link the pictures directly from Flickr or are you ok with this?

thanks guys, I've made tons more but I'd have to link to my albums (on Facebook, quality is quite good there)

another one I made today when I waited for my seats to be refurbished

General Help Q&A / Re: Time lapse
« on: July 06, 2012, 03:01:39 PM »
I didn't really test this, but I think you can use auto ISO with FPS override mode (sort of a poor man's bulb ramping :) ).

I tried this is possible, needs a little fine tweaking though (and maybe mentioned in the next releases manual).

-make sure the picture is properly exposed before starting with the settings. (so it is well exposed with ISO 100 or near)

-I set Movie Exposure to Manual (Canon Menu).

ML Movie Menu:

-FPS override on (value depends on how exposed you want your movie to be and how fast it should play)

-Shutter Lock ON


-Shutter Speed in dark areas near 350°, gets a little bit brighter when you close it near 306°

-Exp. Override (AUTO OFF) <---first its AUTO ON.....turns off after next step

-go to ISO and press arrow until you reach value 0----sets Exp Override AUTO OFF

Now you can record in FPS override with Auto ISO, try it out as I did maybe, I filmed beneath my desk and the pic got brighter to a good exposure.....filmed out of the window the camera exposed the day-scene good as well.

But theres a problem (which can be solved). When you start filming like this the ISO value you can see on the screen is only "0"....all the time.

workaround to get ML to show you the actual ISO value is while recording press ISO button, change it to some value and then back to AUTO.

Now ML shows the current ISO value.

the minimum and maximum ISO value can be set up in the ML and Canon Menu.

I dont film alot (or at all) but I think this could help people out who dont want to shoot in intervalometer mode (count me in)

A feedback if its working for you would be nice

Note: I think this is good when the scene is getting darker (sunset) and brighter after a while (i.e. sunrise).

Not sure if this workaround is usefull for any ND-filter like effects during daytime. I dont own an ND filter yet so I cant test.

And to for the other values like shutter and aperture.....yes it can be changed during FPS override filming but you'll have a massive lag depending on how low youre recording.


I started photography in February 2012 and I'm still learning how to set up the camera properly according to the current situation and tools like Lightroom.

I own an EOS 550D, using the 18-55 IS II Kit Lens (sometimes with an polarization filter to minimize reflections on windscreens and hoods of cars), the 55-250 IS II (not that satisfied with it) and the 50mm 1.8, which is a pretty nice lens!

Magic Lantern comes in handy in some situations, but I'm sure I'm not using it with its full potential.

here are some of my HDR and normal processed pictures, I'm open to any helpful tips since I definitely need alot more practice.

this pic shows paratroopers of the 263th Airborne Bataillon of the German Army in front of Zweibrücken Castle for their 30th anniversary roll-call after 10 pm, so it was already dark.

It's an ML HDR autmatic created picture, processed with Lightroom and Photomatix, removed a twig, recolored the top hair of the viewer in the lower section of the pic and reshaped one of the soldier's torches on top of the castle with GIMP......I'm satisfied with it because the flags, soldiers and people were moving during the shoot

another HDR, sun was in front of me....has the drawn look which I like with this one

old BMW 3.0 CSi I found sitting at the Dakar yellow. I highlighted it with Lightrooms brush tool

some shots from an BMW meet at the Hockenheimring

my car :-)

@the Nürburgring

did this one without an ND filter, got some really nasty edges around the trees and the building in the upper left corner, no idea how I can prevent this from happening.....

I really hope some of them are good enough


Thanks for the reply, I'm not blaming you for anything  ;) I'm just confused about the software, and I really thought "to snip" is just another word for "to cut". haha thanks for the heads up

I will try this workflow later, maybe post a video....we'll see. I'm more into learning photography but I also want to know how to use most of the ML functions in case I need them.

Lets hope this forum gets filled up with tons of more tutorials and hints :-)


I'm having some problems with this tutorial.

first, I'm totally new to Blender, never had anything to do with it before.....I also find it difficult to control.

 Now its this, when I import a movie clip and want to cut the first few seconds of it its really annoying to do.

I mark the clip with right mouse, move the green bar to the part I want to cut the clip and press Shift+S to snip it.

English isnt my first language so maybe I have a total misunderstanding of a "snip" but isnt that suposed to mean to snip the clip apart?

because all it does it jumps to the beginning of the clip, starting where I placed the green bar. -.-

So I tried it with dragging the clip handle to the position I want the clip to start. This works so far but as soon as I divide the clip length by 2 it messes everything up, shrinks the clip and the Speed Control both to tiny dots in the negative part of the "timeline". I hope you get what I mean.

When I drag the clip so its only half as long as before and turn “stretch to input length” off, the picture freezes when playing or scrolling through the clip.

^this is only when I try to make the whole clip shorter!

furthermore, after a couple of hours I somehow managed to get everything done (I kinda know the workflow for After Effects, this is basicly the same), I try to render everything.

the result is very unsatisfying because the light and dark frames arent synchronized, no matter if I put the upper lighter clip on the starting frame of the darker clip or +1 frame.

I'm kinda lost..... + the tutorial in the video is a little bit different to the tutorial you posted beneath the youtube video.

I'm especially struggeling with the Effect strip settings.....and do I have to render both the Meta-strips and the Gamma Cross Effect or do I have to turn off the "eyes" on the metas and only render the Gamma Effect strip?

Isnt ML Tools suposed to process HDR videos? I hope they'll get finished soon because this is giving me headaches.

thanks for any help

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