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Messages - tweak

#1
Quote from: kizza1234 on October 04, 2023, 02:14:37 PM
Hi guys, avid user of Magic lantern, and recently got some EF anamorphic lenses.
Anybody know if its possible to get a 6:5, 3:2 or 4:3 image with the 3x3 sampling method?

After some extensive tests using this build, I am finding using this 3x3 sampling method combined with Dual ISO removes most if not all visable aliasing.
Because of this, Im keen to see if the method could be used to create a 6:5, 3:2 or 4:3 output instead of the current 16:9, 2.35:1 and 2.39:1 options.


Any thoughts, would be very much appreciated!

It's pretty simple to get other ratios. Make sure you turn the ratio off in the main menu, then go into the raw menu and select the ratio you want, afterwards scroll through the numbers with the jog wheel until you get to the actual numbers you want.
#2
Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon EOS M
December 04, 2022, 09:34:55 PM
Quote from: lightspeed on March 20, 2022, 01:42:44 AM
For rolling shutter.

would it be possible to have the sensor read sideways? this way there would be rolling shutter up and down but not side to side.

If you want to eliminate Rolling shutter artefacts you could take your footage into "Gyroflow" (free stabilisation software) and put in the exact rolling shutter values (can be found in FPS override tab) and it can fix rolling shutter effect. You will also need some kind of gyrologger to make this work, but if it's what you really need it does work (I've done it myself).
#4
Cheers! @2blackbar, got it working now.
#5
Quote from: cmh on April 15, 2020, 09:07:55 AM
This code is part of a module named crop_rec.c
Assuming that you use an EOS M, you'd need to compile Danne's build.

I'm on a Mac... I gave it all a go but couldn't get it to work  :( .

@2blackbar - would you be willing to share your build with me? Would definitely be a huge help, I've got the same lens as you.

Cheers.
#6
Quote from: cmh on April 23, 2020, 06:19:12 PM
I just tested 1440x1080 with the mv1080 profile on a bright scene with the sky in frame.
It goes past 52 MB/s at times when overexposed at 14 bits so it's not continuous
I get 45 MB/s overexposed at 12 bits and exposed for the sky at 14 bits, around 36 MB/s exposed for the sky at 12 bits.
12 bits should be safe but I've only tested recording a minute.

I can test 2,5k real quick if you don't mind the crop.
edit: 2,5 k, same resolution and bit depth so I get more or less the same results .

You can just back the resolution down a bit if you want continuous, I doubt you could notice the difference, especially using anamorphic lenses (I can't). If you want to get it back up to 1080 just upscale on export from MLVapp.
#7
Quote from: 2blackbar on January 05, 2020, 08:11:44 AM
Im using f1.4 tamron 4-12mm and i ripped plastic cover to expose aperture mechanism and control it.Im planning to get something from 12 to 80mm maybe more tele as well.
Crop mode on M is exact fit for 1/2" lenses, 2/3" and super 16mm film camera lenses
--
Adjusted 2.5k again, i had thin lines probably because skipping top and bottom was not accurate.
case CROP_PRESET_2K_EOSM:
            /* set ratio preset */
            if (ratios == 0x1)
            {
                skip_left       = 36;
                skip_right      = 36;
                skip_top        = 8;
                skip_bottom     = 38;
            }
            if (ratios == 0x2)
            {
                skip_left       = 36;
                skip_right      = 36;
                skip_top        = 0;
                skip_bottom     = 28;
            }
            if (ratios == 0x3)
            {
                skip_left       = 197;
                skip_right      = 197;
                skip_top        = 8;
                skip_bottom     = 204;
            }
            break;



            case CROP_PRESET_2K_EOSM:
  cmos_new[5] = 0x2c0;             /* vertical (first|last) */
              cmos_new[7] = 0x2a8;    /* pink highlights without this */
                break;
               

Well , looks like lines are there from pressing left arrow on wheel and coming back to framing preview.They disappear slowly and are gone after about 10 seconds.

Can someone please help me with where I need to put this code? I also would like to use these same lenses and have trouble because of uneven vignette.  :)
#8
I tried out MLVFS on my old Macbook 2013 in Resolve but it was too slow so gave it a miss. Now I've come back to it with a brand new 15inch MBP and Resolve and although it plays back fine, in Reslove all the clips have a blue cast to them... Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong?
#9
Raw Video Postprocessing / Re: MLVProducer
September 02, 2016, 09:45:17 PM
I take it there's no program for Mac users then?  :(
#10
Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon EOS M
October 14, 2014, 09:06:16 PM
Quote from: dpjpandone on October 03, 2014, 02:26:18 AM
because pink dots are a pain to remove in post, sound only works for one take and then you have to reboot the camera, no headphone output, no tethered (tablet) control, and it's not very ergonomic.... these are some of the reasons to choose a t2i/t3i

Just like the posts you are criticizing, the above adds absolutely nothing to the conversation either....

Greyscale preview has not been implemented on the M, either it hasn't been found, or doesn't exist in the M's firmware. The menu entry is still there to keep the code cleaner since it is ported from other cameras.

Pink dots are easy to remove once you have the workflow. Sound works almost every take for me, I don't have a problem with that. Headphone output isn't an issue if you have a monitor or shoot without sound (as a lot buying do). Do a lot of people need a tablet connected? Kind of defeats having a small package camera no? Ergonomics aren't that great I guess, but on the other hand it's great to have a small camera to easily take places. The resolution for M in RAW is still better than the others (regardless of the cons) in it's price range, so I don't think you can really compare them. Also ability to use C-mount lenses and the like in crop mode for RAW is a feature that the others can't even touch...

If it at least drives one person to read the manual before asking irrelevant questions I think it has.

Sucks there's no Greyscale option, maybe one day... I've been messing around about and starting to understand better where it's framed.
#11
Share Your Videos / Re: Canon Eos M RAW Video
October 01, 2014, 06:17:42 PM
Looks good, what Liveview did you use? I'm assuming it's also as incorrect as mine as it looks like you cut out his hands (not on purpose) as is the case with the framing in Raw on my eos m.
#12
MLVMystic with 2x2 chroma smoothing on is your best bet.
#13
Raw Video / Re: Eos M Raw video aspect problem
October 01, 2014, 06:13:41 PM
It says at the bottom of the screen when selecting aspects that you much stretch by 1.4x in post to get the right aspect. Only if you shoot in crop mode will you not have to do this.
#14
Raw Video / Re: Pink Dot Remover for MLV
October 01, 2014, 05:57:05 PM
^How do you access that feature then?

Obviously I already use MLVMystic, but if it was intergrated in MLrawviewer then it would lessen the workflow  ;) :) .
#15
Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon EOS M
October 01, 2014, 05:49:11 PM
Why would anyone choose a T3i, 600D etc over the M for a cheap ML soloution??? Am I missing something here? The M does everything I need and more with ML and I rarely have a problem with it. Not to mention Raw on the M is better than others in it's class and price range.

Also I'm pretty suprised by the amount of people that ask questions on here that have absolutely nothing to do with ML... for gods sake read the manual or do a bit of research first!  :D

REAL question - Does anyone else have a problem with the "Greyscale" live view when shooting RAW??? All the other options work for me (Hacked, No live view etc) but Greyscale doesn't seem to. The framing when shooting RAW on my M is a bit off and I assume if you can shoot with the Greyscale function it will be more correct?
#16
Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon EOS M
September 12, 2014, 02:30:11 PM
Well since the shutter bug is mentioned on almost every single page of the 16 page thread most people mustn't have looked too hard to find an answer  ;). A sticky at the top would be the smartest thing, something like this that could be added to the top of the page. VVV

Sticky:
Shutter Bug: Most prevalent with 18-55 EFM lens. Fix - half take lens off and put it back on again.
Menu disappearing: Menu only stays open for about 3 seconds. Fix - there isn't one.
Opening Menu: Either two finger tap the screen or hold down the trash can button for 3 seconds.
Cycle between menus: For different menu views press the "menu" button after two finger tapping or holding the trash can button down.
Movie stopped recording: Likely that there's too much info to record. Fix - lower Q-scale or CBR (if enabled) for more complex scenes.


@dpjapandone - you should be able to select any resolution and frame rate you like in the ML menu. I only ever shoot in 3x crop mode so I'm not sure that the full sensor mode even works properly on the M (anyone know???). You can only shoot up to a certain resolution depending upon what aspect ratio you have selected, the ML menu will give you the information as to what resolution is possible with what aspect ratio to be able to keep continuously recording.
#17
Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon EOS M
September 11, 2014, 10:39:36 PM
^Just read any of the 16 pages of this thread and it would tell you that...
#18
Quote from: andyroo on August 22, 2014, 07:40:59 PM
Someone at some point told me to "use '70s glass" Can anyone be a little more specific and tell me what lens and adapter I would need to get the closest to 35mm as possible on the EOS M?

Andy

What they are talking about is using a manual focus lens like FD, PK or OM glass. You can get all these adapters to EF-M mount on ebay for about 10 dollars a pop. Then all you need to do is get the right size lens for your needs and set the lens to infinity focus, in this way your camera will not auto-focus and will take shots much quicker. (you will need to go into the camera settings and enable "release shutter without lens").

As for length of lens the conversion will be 1.6x, so you will probably need either a 20mm (32mm equiv) or 24mm (38.4mm equiv) lens. Old 20mm lenses are quite expensive and also quite heavy and big, I think your best best would be trying to find an 24mm in P/PK mount (Pentax), these lenses also seem to be smaller than most.

Hope that helps.
#19
Quote from: cpreston on August 22, 2014, 05:45:33 PM
Regarding magic zoom, it took me awhile to figure out how to use it with EF-M lenses while maintaining manual focus.  The best way to do it is to go into the M's Config menu and reassign the focus to the * button on the dial so that it no longer focuses when you half press the shutter button.  Also, set the focus mode to AF/MF and set magic zoom to appear when focusing or half pressing the shutter.  Now you can set the focus box by tapping the screen and then when you turn the focus ring or half press the shutter button, the magic zoom box will appear to aid in focusing.

You are on the money when using EF-M glass and regular shooting mode.
#20
In regards to my last post, I had said that "magic zoom" worked in crop mode, what I meant to say was that the "focus box" zoom works in crop mode, the "magic zoom" (fullscreen) on the other hand does not. This is still quite handy however and I didn't realise it was useable until now.

^To the poster above I always have the same problem. Once you move from AWB there is no way to get back to that setting unless you reset the cameras settings. I usually just shoot in 5400, but if you want auto it's almost best not to touch that dial! haha.
#21
Maybe I'm an idiot and never realised, but I have some interesting info in regards to the focus box while using crop mode as I always assumed it didn't work...

I found that the focus box does actually work in crop mode as long as you make sure the focus box is positioned in the top of the screen (top left) and I usually set pixel size at 2:1 for best results.

It works in small medium or large box size, but the small window looks the least glitchy. The bigger sizes will have some flicker, but on my camera are still totally useable to judge focus.

If this has been discussed already I apologise, but I don't remember reading it here, hopefully it helps others like me.
#22
"Slightly sharper" appears to be far more accurate and easier to judge than the other focus peaking method (in my opinion).
#23
Well what you could do is plug in the cord for an external screen, this would switch the screen to black... although I guess that's not the best option around. I haven't seen an option for turning the screen off completely besides that.

To the guy above what do you mean by "Manual mode"? The ML menu should show up any-time by either holding down the trash button for three seconds or two finger tapping the screen. If you want to switch between the 2 ML menus you have to press the "menu" button after either two finger taping or holding down the trash button.

Hope that helps.
#24
I think I read some glitch with Audio in the 600/650D thread to a similar nature, maybe someone has more info?
#25
Test Footage from EOSm shooting MLV RAW. Read the description for more info. By the way this is my first attempt at it so any info/help is greatly appreciated.