Messages

For motion detect, ensure your lens is in AF.
Check your display/menu and ensure aiservo or movieservo is enabled.  This can in video mode
be turned off via flash button.  If its grey on the display then its off.
Aiservo does not work in 3X or 10X video zoom modes.

As for the box you are after, well there are three different boxes based on AF mode - zone (single or multi) or facial recog.  The boxes look slightly different based on the AF mode.

Check these first.

Ignis
On my 600D which does not have All-I compression bit rates increases are more critical.
The 70D ALL-I is just as good as max bit-rate enhancement, and supports ISO 1600, so its better than raw video for low light ~ IMHO.
I think the 70D is best used with ALL-I for video.
Raw video on 70D is frought with issues, 720p continuous or 1600/2:49 at 60s max. clip time,
but max ISO of 800 unless you want to worry about hot pixels or low light shadow noise.

Andre
My suggestions for focus peaks on, and zebras I would only worry about overexposure which 1% is pretty good.
If you shoot raw, and by that I mean timelapse or still pics then ETTR, which many recommend a 1/3rd of a stop.

RGB histo, I stopped using it as the peaks & zebras are all I need for clipping (perhaps on stills review or shot set-up).
On occasion magic zoom with 3X lossless zoom, but if you really want to get the best manual focus check,
I suggest LCD loupe with 3X magnification.  Its more precise than focus boxes.
Especially good if you poke a whole in bottom of loupe and use touchscreen AF in video to pull focus.
Use the flash button to on/off aiservo and youve got a rather powerful video camera that pulls focus, follows focus, or fixes AF while shooting. ~ JMHO

Thanks Doug.

I recall the 600D card write speed is 50% less than the 70D.  Not sure about the 60D.
The variable fps is not working with the 70D ML presently for h264 video.
So if the 70D supports faster cpu & bus, it may very well reach 50% faster fps for 1080p than the 600D (i.e. up to 70 fps???).

I think the line of 70D investigation, has to be to use existing IPB compression chip.
Clearly IPB bit rates are less CPU than All-I.  So if the existing pipe-line can handle All-I at 720p / 60 fps,
then when we switch to IPB some of the cpu and pipeline is not used/free.  I seem to recall IPB is about 1/3 the data as All-I.
So the cpu power & pipeline has some untapped capacity in IPB.

The question becomes in 720p IPB compression, how can we trick the camera into using 1080p?
Or the converse question in 1080p IPB compression, how can we trick the camera into going 60fps?

There is some potential here. 

The HDR 60fps video correction for fast motion, to be honest sounds like a rats nest.
I wonder if you shift each frame by 1/120th of a second, alternately (shift ahead, shift behind) then
use HDR frame processing, followed by PPro stabilizer correction, if it would generate a sharp 30 fps picture?
Considering how slow HDR processing for in camera stills, this post processing would always be in post for video.

Now that Canon has opened their Komono on the 80D, I was initially excited to learn
that it would offer FHD 60 fps, and FHD HDR video at 30fps.  It seemed like they might have
put a fast processor in it! But since this is Canon after all, and they are hell bent on letting marketing
hi-jack the performance, to keep XXD line subserviant to the XD line, ... the gotcha moment came
"it  only does all the above in IPB compression".  So Canon has again provided some opportunity for ML.

I guess the question of interest is can the 70D shoot:
- FHD 60 fps, IPB only, H264
- FHD HDR 30 fps, IPB only H264
These to me seem like ML enhancements opportunities, as H264 improvements are far more promising than RAW video.

I am also curious to see if their HDR works with fast moving action.  Not sure
if they can correct it?

I wonder if there is a way to marry the the step focus function with the Auto_ETTR.

The idea is if it can adjust focus by steps, and set auto_ettr, should one be
able to create a rather awesome focus tracking, that keeps in focus while adjusting auto_ettr,
and ofcourse I am refering to video.  The though of dynamic exposure adjust while a subject
moves in a frame in focus would be rather exciting.

JM2C 

PS: We would need an ISO max limit too.  Currently ML ISO = AUTO, is not max. limitted, leading to undesirable ISO=A6400 or A3200.

Managed to move it about, by using the * button, and set buttons, until the box appears.  Then the arrows could be used without simultaneous pressing.
It was better.

Now my beef is more about tracking, it seems that follow-focus with focus peaks is the best for video.
Although I am getting really good at MF with riding the focus ring. 
Too bad it does not track continuos with an aiservo, as the subject moves about.  Its really only geared for the shutter press.
Now that would be an enhancement, trick it into constantly AF as the subject tracks in aiservo for video.

@swardet
"First. the display AND footage surged from a normal exposure to a VERY overexposed. This seemed quite odd."
- Probably you have ISO set to auto in ML.  Dont forget ML can override your Canon settings (trashcan - > Display ->General ->ISO then hit Q to change from auto).  Unfortunately the upper ISO limit in the Canon s/w does not work with ML, so A6400 can pop up.  What's your EC set to?  I generally never exceed 0 with H264, and often go a bit -ve.  I would also suggest zebras be used with some value like 99% to check for warnings.

" Second. The AF+Tracking that I find extraordinarily useful did not work well while using ML. The camera was like a cheap Rebel and all it did was hunt for the subject."
- You'll have to give more specifics for help.  Liveview or Viewfinder? What exposure mode (Av,TV,P,M)? what AF mode (Facial, Zone, Multi-Zone)? Movie servo must settings (on, priority 1/2)? Too often folks start blaming the camera when they havent got on top of the settings.   There is a low light limit, but I can tell you right now more than 50% of the time someone is using the Canon 50mm f1.8 II or older which should truly be used manual focus only in low light.

When you are shooting LV either stills or video, with ML display,  is there a way to move the AF box about?

I seem to have to use the * or back-button focus button with arrows, this is impossible to move
without moving the camera about.  It does not work in every focus mode either.

It seems that the in the ML config, one would want to have focus box move by arrows as one
of the options (just like ISO/TEMP, step focus, etc.) for the DISPLAY button.
If one were to use the DISPLAy button instead of the * button, then the arrows being pressed
does not move the camera about.

Audio should monitor using the stereo bars (red/green peaks) when recording for unexpected spikes
or drop outs.
If you do a proper sound check & balance your mics that's
all that is needed to handle max. volume and min. noise.
You could add compressor/limiters in the live recording if spiking was really an unknowable factor.

As the live recording happens at the same time as the recording,
one person can not differentiate just by listening. There is very little to be gained (pun intended)
by having live audio headphone monitoring during recording.
However as I recall on playback you can hear the sound and I think review the bars.
Only on playback can you sound check.

No problem to shoot 4k video. Its called time-lapse you can shoot raw even greater than 4k.
However fps is very low.  Check out the ML manual

Timelapse: intervalometer recording at very low FPS (down to 0.2 FPS), and "silent pictures" without shutter actuation.

Tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNp3QjVnzp0

Example
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pG61Np3agXI

Shake & O-Rat

If your taking still shots aiservo off/on is not such an issue, so I assume video mode is your need. And for that Canon has a neat
button, just use the Flash button for movie-servo off/on.   I prefer ML screen to DSLR controller, as I use liveview with a 3X loupe, it retains fast touchscreen af, which I dont think DSLR controller is as fast (as I recall its been a while).  Focus peaks, zebras, and the ml screen are my preferred mode.

Hey Gangsta

My first question is about the glass, it looks like a kit lens is causing the fringing. The fringing is not coming from the s/w neither is the less than sharp focus in the picture.  I suspect its not the camera, as more often its AF technique skills, which is off topic for this thread. I would post your screen grab, and video links over at dpreview.com, that's a good forum to discuss those problems.

I think the 70D is suitable to shoot 1600/24 fps @ 2;39.1 raw  for 1 minute clips, or best use is 1280/24fps @ 2:39.1 continuous.  Shooting raw is very limited in useful ISO, 400 is about reliable max. Low light shadow banding or for longer clip hot pixels will be issues at higher ISO.  It gets hot shooting raw, especially for extended clip lengths.   It wasn't designed for the cooling that raw shooting needs. Most pro digital film cameras that shoot raw don't exceed ISO 800.  All-I 1080p is best for higher ISO shooting, and time lapse is best for high resolution raw.

ETE, try video with a fast shutter, 1080p @30 fps and a 1/160s or so shutter.
You should find it very sharp.  You will need some fast glass for lower light.

So here is a video that works for t3i, they used the usb cable that came with the camera & a small adapter/amp. Very cheap.
However you have to use external monitor for video (either HDMI or USB port fed but not both), as the screen blanks with the usb cable.  Perhaps micro hdmi & your smart phone.

http://www.dslrfilmnoob.com/2011/02/25/more-on-adding-audio-monitoring-to-your-dslr/

A trend is to shoot in 2:39 but master to 2:35, which is the near anamorphic.
The wiggle room just speeds the whole picture framing process along.

Question out there.  When using ML in video mode, with the ML liveview screen, is there an easy way to turn AIservo off/on.
I looked at customization but cant seem to find much for AIservo.
Presently I keep hitting info button & going through Canon screen. 
Would be nice if ML screen had AIservo on/off option.

Answer:  I found an answer. It was in the comment section.  Use the flash button in movie mode, it will turn off movie servo off/on.
This made my day, as now I can keep the focus peaks, zebras, and rgb histo on the ML screen.
http://blog.dojoklo.com/2013/08/15/canon-70d-tips-and-tricks-custom-controls/

So we dont need an ML button for servo on/off.  Thought to share for those who like me luv luv luv the ML video screen.

TechP

I think720p clean outs is perfectly good for internet streaming.  Some folks might want to cover and event or shoot an internet series with their 70D, and its quite suitable for that.  However you should really have EOS utility or DSLR controller on the usb, as you want to be able to pull focus through the mouse/screen.  This makes up for a blanked LCD (sheesh what a poor design to blank the LCD IMHO).

Dev & TechnoP

Clean outs are possible.  Check my post, it really needs to be a sticky.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=14309.msg157764#msg157764

The part I am not sure is Atmos as I dont use it. But I thought its interface (record, stop)
is integrated with canon interface, not sure if those commands work with ML in place. 
Check it out and let us know if it works with ML clean outs.

Clean outs is possible with ML, But not at 1080p.
You could get clean 720p, and that would require crop. To get 1080p you have to up res.

Check my post link for details (this really should be a sticky):
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5951.msg155225#msg155225

If you run the camera for 30mins +, such that its the warmest youve ever felt,
I would suggest checking out Hot Pixels (HP) as time increases. 
It may be the H264 compression algorithm corrects some of this,
but I know RAW video it does not. I assume your card space fills up too fast to do long shoots
in RAW anyways.  HP are the bane of the 70D, IMHO. 
Probably the battery plugin attachment is needed, which means AC with a cord.

Ive shot longest when streaming HDMI, but so far Ive only done longer shoots this using a 600D (around 20min).
The 600D does not suffer from the same heat issues.

So anyone know how likely
Dual ISO video is? or
Variable bit rate?

These two features, would probably improve video IQ the most.

And as for follow-up, when you select 720p from HDMI (for clean output streaming), regardless of canon aspect you select
it will output  as 3:2.  And if you want to use EOS utility, you can record with it, although I have not done it for any length of time, as I generally stream the HDMI.

There was a poster a page or so back asking about how to get clean outputs, just check on my recent posts and you will find your answer
how to set it up. 

OK is there a way to save the ML settings,
- global draw = off
- arrows = off
- clear overlays = always
such that when you power off and restart they stay off until you
go back in via the trashcan. Right now they dont stay off after power off/on.
This is pretty useful for streaming.

"Regardless, I was wondering if anyone had any particularly great experience with getting 4k Video from the T5i or any workarounds for clean video yet?"

I think we need a a new thread on clean outs, as the solution for all rebels is the same. Its the same for 7D, 6D, 5D, 5DMKII, 70D.
- If you plug an HDMI cable in the LCD goes blank!!! What a mess JMHO.
- You will want a display. you can plug in a usb cable and use a PC/EOS utility or Android/DSLR Controller app. Through the usb display you can still control the camera, see its picture and set AF.  Note the Android solution, means you could use your phone!
- If you just want to manual focus your live stream, this is easy you dont need Magic lantern.  Select Live View focus, and put the lens in MF.  If you cycle through INFO, you should find a clean display.
- If you want to AF, you'll need Magic Lantern.  The feature set: select global draw off, select arrows off, and set clear overlays to "always".  This will get you clean HDMI out, and retain AF (which is set on your USB display/software).
- Now plug in a special cable which is (micro) hdmi, and hdmi to your hdmi recorder of choice.  I like Hauppage HD PVR II, with a laptop.
- Now you can live stream HDMI to a hard drive.
- Now the cool part is that HDMI streams 4:2:2 compression!!!  where as H264 is only 4:2:0. 
- Now the very uncool part is that Canon lames most models except for 5DMKIII, 7DMKII.  So you cant get 1080p straight out.  You can stream 720p, which is good enough for Skynet channels.
The ML wiki states: http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/HDMI_Output
" HDMI output from the Canon HDMI is limited to 1620x1080 (3:2) while the camera is not recording (which is its stream mode).
This requires the user to crop the footage from the external recorder to 1620x910 (16:9) and then resize it to either 1280x720 (79%) or 1920x1080 (119%)."

ML only up res. for RAW to about 2k(XXD series) to 2.5k (5D series), no Canon DSLRs shoot 4K.  If you want 4k, try time lapse shooting, then play with Twixter/AE to interpolate skipped frames or speed it back up (???Report back as Ive never done this but seen a few others who did). And BTW this means your 4K would be 14 bit raw (more bits than a BMD ursa).  This is a massive work around, and probably wont work for fast motion, ... its probably a workflow from hell. 

Ok, something I dont check that often, but did last night.
The 70D clean outs.  If you plug in an HDMI cable the LCD goes blank. 
But if you plug in a usb cable, and use a PC/EOS utility or Android/DSLR Controller app, you can still control the camera and see its picture.
The magic lantern feature, is clear overlays, set it to "always".
Now you can live stream HDMI with your 70D (or even your rebel series). 
The part I only recently realized is that HDMI stream is 4:2:2 compression!  H264 is only 4:2:0.
However Canon had to lame the 70D because its not a XD series, so it shoots less less than 1080p.
The ML wiki states: http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/HDMI_Output
" HDMI output from the Canon HDMI is limited to 1620x1080 (3:2) while the camera is not recording.
This requires the user to crop the footage from the external recorder to 1620x910 (16:9) and
then resize it to either 1280x720 (79%) or 1920x1080 (119%)."
Yes it works in Aug-22 release. 
Next I am going to try if you shoot 720p to see if the HDMI out is 720p (no crop required?).
Really this is just for live streaming, but a 720p is very OK for internet.

 

Prasad
"RAW video means unprocessed raw data captured by the sensor and that means no picture style is baked in it. So it doesn't matter what picture style you have selected. Correct me if I'm wrong."

RAW is a set of data off the sensor.  So yes you can change picture style in post, correct that its not baked in but ...
If you want to shoot ETTR, you will want a flat pic style. This will help you to set exposure optimally.  By using a flat pic. style
you can push for more DR, by using a pic style that supports best ISO, f-stop, shutter and even focus.  These are baked in your footage. 
What looks good on a non-flat Canon pic. style will tend to less than optimal DR exposure settings (possibly focus).  If in doubt do your own comparison to see the difference.   

The only caveat I have is that when you are shooting low DR subjects, like mist or fog, in those types of subjects you will probably benefit from a contrasty pic style.  With a flat pic style, it would lesson the contrast, which is what you are trying to maximize in your exposure/focus.  OK same is true for low DR in terms of colour, so flat colour subjects probably are best shot with vivid colour pic styles.