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If you record an image at 1000 horizontal pixels and then expand it in post to 1280 you're going to get distortion in the image (unless you use an anamorphic lens).

That is not what Thejungle is proposing.

In his scenario, the pixel count on either axis never expands nor contracts from shooting through post.  He is merely proposing to use pseudo rectangular pixels, which are effectively longer on the horizontal axis (similar to some of the older Panasonic cameras, I think).

By the way, if this function is possible, moire' and aliasing could increase horizontally, especially if the solution is accomplished through pixel skipping.

Just for clarification, there is no "resizing" of the image -- the full 16:9 area of the sensor is being utilized.

However, you are setting a horizontally oblong pixel aspect ratio in your camera, while setting the same pixel aspect ratio somewhere in post.

I think that I am beginning to understand what you want.  "Squeezing" during shooting and "expanding" in post are misnomers.

What you actually seem to be proposing is to change the aspect ratio of the pixel so that there are fewer pixels on the horizontal axis.  This would create, effectively, rectangular pixels which are longer on the horizontal axis.

If so, there probably would have to be some sort of pixel binning or pixel skipping of the raw data done within the camera.

I am fairly sure that ML/TL users are already doing this.

As I understand it, in the instances in which it is possible to use ML/TL to change the aspect ratio to more of a 4:3 or square format, one can sometimes increase the actual vertical resolution (to higher than 720) while using anamorphic optics (oriented horizontally), so as to get a greater effective resolution overall.

3.: 600D is bottlenecked by a rather slow memory controller chip. About 21 MByte/s ... end of the line. A faster card will not help here.

Yes, but people should keep in mind that card ratings are often outrageously wrong. My PNY Elite Performance card is rated at 90MB/s, yet, on the camera, it is consistently slower than my Sandisk Extreme Pro rated at 80MB/s.  The card with the higher rating is definitely limiting the recording speed of the camera.

Looking to purchase this card as you suggested. However the low price is putting me off and also lack of any customer reviews... I am aware there is an issue occasionally with fake cards. Any thoughts?

Not sure to which card (of the ones I mentioned) you refer, but more reviews on the Sandisk card can be found here.

It might be worth it to also try all I-frames (GOP 1) or at least 1 I-frame out of every three frames (GOP 3).  Here is a thread that discusses ideal settings for the original TL1 and TL2.  Here is a related article.

I believe that the latest TL builds allow bit rate boosting and GOP adjustment while lacking slice and d-block control.  I am still using TL1 for the extra control, but I will soon try a more recent TL build.

Yes, the 600D/T3i takes SD cards -- not compact flash.

It looks like the fastest Komputerbay SD cards on Amazon are 600x.

Sandisk Extreme Pro cards work well, but they are expensive.  I have been using a 64GB PNY Elite Performance card with my T3i, not for raw, but for 2.5x boosted bit rate with all I-frames, and it works on all but the most complex subjects.

Bought an EOS-M from Amazon today.  The Amazon page said only one remained in stock.  Of course, immediately after I ordered it, the page said more were available.

At any rate, I am looking forward to using it with the settings discussed and with some interesting lenses.

Thanks!

I can download the drive.google.com links.  Thanks!

Both videos look pretty good.  Still wondering why the bitrate seems peculiarly higher on the GOP 12 shot.

Appreciate all your efforts!  Because of these videos, I'll probably get an EOS-M along with several cheap Ebay lenses/adapters (maybe even the Yashica -- it seems fairly sharp and snappy).

Thanks!

Look at QP per frame and what kinds of frames they are.

What's QP?

In regards to the kinds of frames, the video with GOP 1 should be all "I-frames," correct?  The GOP 12 video should contain one "I-frame"  for every combination of eleven "P-frames" and "B-frames," right?

Isn't compressing a video into  combination of  "I,"P" and "B" frames supposed to use fewer bits than all "I" frames?

i did 2 test with Video hacks enable and 2.5x CBR

the longer video https://mega.co.nz/#!PBAGSADA!0qpCriyL-xSS8z91d-FifpMPbqjvQo3zlmBpotTBeMk

shorter video https://mega.co.nz/#!rFZU3CiR!qHzz4O-3jYbVil6pRoT8D7z17Lhlskd7jlRTUebA-ic

Thank you for posting these videos.  I would love to see them, but, unfortunately, I am unable to get anything off of that www.mega.co.nz site.  YouTube or Vimeo always works (I can deal with the site compression).

the diferences in the bitrate are big .... i ll do more tests

Thanks!

Thank you trying these settings and for posting all of this information!  It is very helpful.

It is interesting that the video with the enabled hacks has a bit rate that is 1/2 that of the video with the hacks disabled.  Perhaps the short duration of the disabled hack video is responsible for this apparent discrepancy.

Also interesting is that the video with the enabled hacks shows a variable bit rate, while the disabled hacks video shows a constant bit rate.

Was the CBR set to 2.5x in both videos?

I'll try to download the linked file.

Thanks!

I would think it's the Twixtor plugin for after effects.

Twixtor is indeed in the YouTube tags for the video.

If you can't afford Twixtor+Adobe, or you run linux, I'd suggest: slowmovideo.granjow.net

I run Linux -- thanks for the link!

Looks really nice!

After seeing this video, I am going to have to rethink my attitude towards artifacts!

Great!

If you were able to shoot for more than 5 minutes at those settings, I'm sold.  Sound is not necessary for my purposes (I have a separate system for that).

Thanks!

Very helpful info.

Interframe h264 compression is the killer.  When every frame is its own image (GOP 1) the video looks cleaner.  Also, it helps to minimize the the h264 intraframe  artifacts by boosting the bit rate (and tweaking d-block settings).

When you get a chance, could you try setting the GOP to "1"  with the bitrate set to "2" or "2.5?"  Such settings probably require a fast SD card to work for any decent length of time.

If the EOS-M works continuously with such boosted bit rate and with the GOP set to "1" then I am buying one!

Thank you!

I appreciate the great info!

I am considering getting an EOS-M, but here is the important question:  In that Tragic Lantern build for the EOS-M, can one set the GOP to "1" or is there no GOP control?

Thanks!

Thank you for the helpful links.  The EOS-M is highly versatile in regards to attachable lenses/adapters.

Can you be a little more specific about your ML settings -- which build, shooting raw, MLV  or h264, resolution, crop mode, GOP setting, etc.

Thanks!

Very interesting!

What were your ML settings?

Can you post pictures of how you mounted the lenses?

Thanks!

you can find submenus by tapping the screen once on the main menu item. You go to the Movie settings and at the top it says CBR 1x. Tap on that once and then the submenus show and all the settings are there.

Great!  So, GOP control is found in the submenus?

And these settings are available in the recent TL builds, right?

Thanks!

Does TL for the EOS-M offer control of GOP, slice and bit rate, as TL1 does for the 600D?

Doesn't the TL "all I-frames" (GOP 1) mode give results similar to shooting jpeg/mjpegs?  There is no "inter-frame" compression -- each frame is it's own image. 

With a high bit rate and ideal slice/d-block settings, "all I-frames" looks pretty darn good.

By the way, do I understand this correctly -- TL 2 has GOP 1 and bit rate boost capability, but no direct slice nor direct d-block control, while TL1 offers all of these functions?

Thanks!

Here is one listing for bag inserts on Amazon in the USA.

Here is another.

Here is yet another.

There are lots more.