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As title says, rumors suggest that we'll soon see a new FF camera from Canon (possible 5D Mark IV) in response to new 4K capable Sony A7 and Panasonic GH4 . Please vote the top 5 features that you'd like to see implemented in upcoming Canon product.

Please note that this poll was made merely for entertainment.

I recently hacked the 650D for Raw and took the camera out for a spin.  Color graded in Resolve.

Bokehlicious!

What was the recording resolution? Which SD card did you use?

DaVinci Resolve - I didnt tested the new version 11. but as an old Premiere-User there was no real workflow for me. Works with 14bit-DNG-Sequences as well. Colorcorrection/Tuning in Resolve, often used via edl and proxies with another edit-app.

ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) - most Adobe-Apps are using the ACR-Importer - After Effects, Photoshop (simply saying Lightroom is the bigger ACR, its the same way). Reads all DNGs, does the best quality, but needs a lot of time. and thats only the first step before editing video.. no one seriously edits videos in ae.

Premiere with according CDNGs - convert, import, work. (thats what i wanted for myself) (if i need some more finetuning, i could use speedgrade as dynamic link)

All Apps need DNG-Files, so the first step is necessary in every way: converting to a dng-sequence.

Well then I was using ACR method without knowing. Camera Raw automatically launches the moment i import DNGs into After Effects anyway. Btw, i don't edit videos in AE, i just use AE to export the footage as lossless avi. Then I do my editing in Premiere Pro.

One thing i noticed about RAW recording is that it has more contrast and is darker than h.264. Why so? Can it be because h.264 benefits from Canon's image profiles (faithful, monochrome, neutral, user def...) and raw doesn't? The difference makes it diffucult to compare raw and h.264 footage. So far i couldn't see any tangible difference between RAW and h.264 on my camera.

I shot a few seconds of 1728x972 raw (the highest res 650D can do), upscaled that to 1080p and then compated it to 1080p h.264. It only looked more contrasty and darker (and that hardly means better quality in my point of view) Sometimes I see raw and h.264 comparisons on internet and they look quite astonishing, i mean the difference is like day and night. But I couldn't see such a difference for myself. Perhaps i'm doing something wrong, perhaps i didn't record the right footage for comparison...

Those who use Sandisk 95mb/s Extreme Pro with 650D, can you please tell me how long can you record raw at 1728x972 before it skips a frame?

I really liked this work. Good job.

if you want MAXIMUM Quality, you have to go the typical ACR or Resolve-Way. If you want much better Quality than H.264, but not the tedious converting-path, its quite ok, you're working only with premiere and the right cdng's. (thats my choice)

Could you please go in some details such as what ACR means or what is Resolve-Way?

I would prefer the raw-workflow, because of the two main advantages: sharpness and color-sensitivity. 720@24fps would be about ~40MB/sek (~2.4GB/min). So if you just use a simple premiere workflow with cdng's (instead of h.264), the result will be much better (without acr) and the difference in preparing data depends only on byte-reconverting to cdng (not on demosaicing before edit).

regards chmee

I see. I wrote my RAW workflow below. Is there anything wrong with it?

Convert raw file to .DNGs using raw2dng_cs2x2.exe (which removes pink dots as well)
In After Effects import the DNGs as camera raw sequence.
Render it as Lossless avi.

I'm starting a new project for a client in the end of this summer. Will be shooting at over 150 historical locations (ancient ruins, settlements etc...) and going to be travelling a lot. The work will be about introducing the historical heritage of my country. I will do short pan and tilt shots, slider shots for up to 10 secs and then combine them into a final 2-3 minutes of videos for each location. The videos will end up on YouTube.

As camera, have the 650D and a 95MB/s Sandisk Extreme Pro card. So I am able to do 720p raw recording long enough for this work. The question is whether I should go RAW or not. Because I can also do high bitrate 1080p h.264. Which one do you think is going to look better?

Another limimation I have is the hard drive space. Since all i have is a portable 1TB drive, do you think it will be enough? Theoretically how long of RAW footage this drive can hold?

Thanks.

I extracted DNGs from raw file using raw2dngcs2x2.exe (to remove pink dots) and then trying to make ProRes 444 video file from them using RAWanizer. But i keep getting this error: "No video sequence folder found"

Latest headphones that come with mobile phones and Apple devices do have volume +/- and a custom function button on them. Can devs program ML to take advantage of these buttons?

I mean it could be very practical.

I set my mind to buy the Manfrotto MVH502A Fluid Head and MVT502AM Tripod System With Carrying Bag

And then i choose KONOVA Slider K3 80cm (31.5-Inch) to go with it.

My concern is that tripod and slider won't be compatible. It says in the product page that tripod has half ball head connection (i don't know what that means, haven't seen it before). So will this slider fit on my tripod nicely? Or should I go with a flat base tripod and fluid head combination?

Also do you think i'd be safe using that slider with single tripod? Because i heard long sliders tend to wobble if used on single tripod. Since i haven't used a slider before, i don't know what is the safe limit here.

just a shout out to the devs...  its nice to see so much active development. I use ML 100% of my shooting, and (almost) everything is 100% stable. Best alpha i have ever tested. Its clear from that activity on this tread that there are almost no issues. Props!

Keep up the work, if there is any additional stuff i can help with ( i will keep moderating these treads) you know how to find me!

There are issues. Check the first post.

Loving the anamorphic live view thanks so much for giving it to the 650d I've been wanting it ever since you guys put it out for the 5dmrkIII! If anyone is looking for the new build with mk11174 audiometers he updates pretty much everytime anything worth having is put into the nightlys here's his download page https://bitbucket.org/mk11174/t5i/downloads big thanks to everyone working hard to make the 650d a better tool for filmmakin. Now the exposure sim what exactly does that do? I can't seem to toggle it on and off it's just stuck in "movie"

I installed this and can't see the audio tab. Where do you activate audiometers?
OK, got it.

Mirror has nothing to do with shutter (for example, you can lock up the mirror with VAF filter, but shutter count will continue counting, because shutter opens and closes anyway)

The shutter's free state is closed, so opening shutter is power-consuming process. How do you exactly realize that shutter stays always open even with the camera off? You can just lock it mechanically.

Or you may probably just remove it ))
By the way why bother if you don't make photos with this camera?

Dang.. I really don't get how the cameras work. All i need to know is... Does it really serve any purpose for shutter to actuate when recording videos? Or is Canon wasting our precious shutter count just so we buy new camera every 3-5 years or so?

If I happen to find a way to stop it actuating mechanically (squeezing a paper around somewhere? lol), would it effect the video shooting capability of my camera?

Yes, silent pics from live view - it's already in ML. The problem is that these silent raw dngs have low resolution, and my nagging to re-implement a high-res mode (matrix like old 422 or something new) weren't heard by the gods yet :-p

As I said, i'm not intrested in photos. I'm looking for a way to stop shutter actuation when go to Live View.

Mirror and shutter are different things.

Sorry i'm not good with terms. But I believe you get what I mean. When I check shutter count under Debug tab in ML menu I see that "Shutter Actuation"  is around 2K. Since the shutter life is limited, can't we find a way to stop shutter to make that "CLICK" sound every time we turn the camera on and off?

I second this. Would be really useful.

I don't take any pictures with my camera, not at all. All i do is video recording. As my job requires it, i have to turn it on and off pretty often (also to preserve the battery).

So I don't want the mirror to move when I turn on and off the camera. To me it's just eating precious shutter life. Can you force camera to make the mirror stay the same all the time?

Today, just out of curiosity i decided to see what happens if i use Sescom A/V to 3.5mm jack converter cable (intended for headphone monitoring) on my 650D.

Screen went black the moment i plugged it in. Then there were codes on the screen when i took it out. Here's a screenshot of what was going on:



There were also numerous .LOG files generated in the parent directory of my SD card. If anyone wants to look at them, download from here: http://s3.dosya.tc/server20/uwAZQR/logs.rar.html

More pics on topic:



First picture was taken when the cable plugged in for the first time. You can see the screen went dark. The second one is when the cable plugged out. Third was taken to show that ML menu was still usable when the message was displayed in LV. Fourh was taken to show that Canon menu was usable when the message was displayed in LV.

The cable I used in this "experiment":

[only]

Magic Lantern is installed to my camera (650D) almost for a year now. I'm doing street interviews and there are only 2 features i need of it:

1) Magic Zoom to get the focus right as quick as possible.
2) Headphone monitoring to be sure of my audio levels & to notice unexpected noises.

So far Magic Latern gave me neither (satisfactorily).

Problems related to Magic Zoom:

-First of all it is so pixellated that shooters (like myself) having hard time picking the details. Canon's own zoom method (when pressed magnification button) is far more sharper even though its magnification level is far more advanced.

-It flickers so badly while recording. (Also present when not recording, but not as much) It is so annoying that renders whole Magic Zoom useless because you can't see a thing.

Problems about headphone monitoring:

-It hasn't been implemented yet. (Though thanks to mk11174 and Alex i can see my audio levels on screen)

Thank you very much to all magic lantern developers and specially to mk11174 for the audio meters updated builds while it is included in magic lantern nightly releases. Go ahead!!

Right, all we need is now headphone monitoring.

You know Troy? The ancient city in minor Asia that Greeks tried to conquer using a Trojan Horse? It is located in Çanakkale (in modern Turkey) and I'm right on there for a conference about philosophy and i got some free time this night to do some shooting. Light pollution is minimal to none, depends on where you point your camera.

So i used the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 and set the exposure 10"  (going higher caused trails for some reason), iso 800, aperture f/1.4. Intervalometer interval was 25 seconds (is it too much or too less?)

Shot some pics but then clouds came, obscured my nice star view. So i ended with about 120 pics which is not very good. I was planning to shoot around 300 pics for each scene.

This one is taken from the 120 pics i shot. Please rate this pic, is it too dark or anything particularly bad looking about it?


Tomorrow i'm going to shoot again (if it's not cloudy) but this time it will be in the temple of Athene. Which has a great view of a greek island, some portion of Aegean sea, couple of olive trees and broad sky.

OK... I managed to make it work. Turns out it wasn't damaged at all, it was just my poorly checking of possible causes of the problem. 1 battery was empty and 2 others were full. The first time i tried to turn it on, the empty battery was inside the cam. So i changed the battery pack but forgot to close the lid so camera didn't turn on. (I didn't know not closing the lid could cause that) So after couple of trial and error i managed to make it work.

Hi,

I just woke up today and tried to turned on my camera just to see that it won't. There are no reactions from the camera. No shutter sound, no lights nothing... I tried with 3 different battery packs, with and without SD card and result is the same.

The last shot i made with my camera was outside, i was shooting in the mild rain. But i think it can't be the cause of this. Because it was hardly raining and the camera worked perfectly while it was raining. So if the water caused this, shouldn't it be apparent by then? Do you think the tiny rainwater droplets can make their way into my camera and cause short circuit?  What else could be the cause? Any tips to restore it back to working condition is welcomed. Thanks!

I was running Magic Lantern by the way...

Ok I don't really understand how any of this works but if mk11174 can bring in audio meters from the 700d to the t4i cant we just bring them from the t3i build and have a much more stable build? Again I could be completely wrong and it could be impossible I really have no idea it's just a thought

700D is more identical to 650D than 550D.