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The best way to find out by yourself is, to import one frame via ae, and one via bridge in 16bit, then compare the size of the file...
life can be so easy...

Okey, so I imported a DNG sequence of 2.6 gig, some 860 frames in to after effects.

then I opened the same sequence in bridge, opened it in ACR and after synchronizing every frame I click Done and choose "place in after effects"... That will import the DNG sequence like direct import to AE, but.. You will have to click OK or Cancel for every single frame and you can't exit ACR. Had to ctrl+alt+delete.

So as I am a quality whore, I guess the best way to assure that AE is importing the DNG's in max quality, is to open bridge - select all DNG's - set to 16 bit - synchronize - Exit Bridge - Import the sequence in to AE via project manager.

And really don't think the file size will increase or decrease inside AE, depending on 8 bit or 16 bit as the files are what they are. What I was concerned about was how AE interprets the footage when imported via ACR.

I've only just heard about the flickering issues with ACR (not a videographer). Does anyone know what causes it?Are you sure? The profile doesn't usually change the white balance. We have. Rec.709 to LOG LUT comes with our OSIRIS film emulations. I'm told BMD Film works really well with ML RAW footage aswell...

As I understand, if you use the 2012 (whatever it's called) in ACR, then ACR will perform some automatic adjustments to each DNG which will/can cause minor flickering, but if you move contrast, highlight, shadows, saturation etc. Then that can severely increase the flickering.

And yes, it changes WB to 4500 and tint to -22 every time I add vision log. No biggey, just something I need to keep in mind.

Another question, as I only own the 5D MK II of all the cameras in your Vision log Folder. Is there any problem if I only have the 5D MK II profile in the folder? I can't really trust automatic adjustments, especially if I only can choose Vision Log, I keep thinking to myself "what if it keeps choosing the wrong camera profile". And could you explain how it knows which camera profile to choose?

Thanks again for the free LOG I still very much like it.

Played around with your Log a little and so far I am very impressed. Haven't rendered anything out yet to see if this will be a work around for flickering, but so far it really looks like I'm getting more dynamic range in contrary to lowering contrast etc.

Still feel obliged to adjust the Highlights in different scenes now and then, in those cases I guess there is no work around for flickering (not that there always is). But hey.. Looks like that adds even more dynamic range

But noticed it changes White Balance when I click vision log?

Hi, I tried searching for this question in the forums, but did not find anything. If there already is a thread, please refer me to it.


Question:

When importing DNG's directly in to After Effects, Adobe Camera RAW opens with the first frame only (no prob there).

But I'm wondering because, if I were to open Bridge and import DNG's in to After Effects. ACR gives me the possibility to choose between 8 bit and 16 bit, it's standard 8 bit. I choose 16 bit ofcourse, because I can't stand the thought of losing quality before even touching the DNG

So my question is, when I import DNG's directly in to After Effects and I don't get the possibility to choose between 8 bit and 16 bit, does ACR import it as 14 Bit or 8 bit or 16 bit?

Just to clarify, its ML 14 bit RAW DNG's I'm talking about.

Thank you.

p.s. No need for there to be a fight, just intellectual discussion.

What I meant about argument, was that I didn't wanna hijack the thread and start a discussion on sensor sizes and so on.

f-stop is important, yes, but I think a cinematographer/videographer with a Pocket Camera will be even more dependent on a big aperture for that bokeh in the background in contrary to one with a Full Frame camera, who can move very close to the subject and get bokeh on a relative smaller aperture.

Yet again, this all comes down to what you wanna use your camera for. I mean, the Pocket camera is very small, don't think it fits in your Pocket though with a lens attached to it. But if I had to choose between the Pocket and a 5D for a vacation, I'd probably go with the Pocket. Also in other situations or places that could be riske'ay, poor contries, wars, etc.. The Pocket would not acquire too much attention in contrary to a bulky DSLR or maybe even bigger cameras.

It's designed for 16mm glass. The crop factor is zero.

Don't wanna start an argument.. But I am pretty sure that if I put a 16 mm on a Pocket and the same on a 5D, I will get much wider field of view on the 5D. e.g. better depth of field.

and the 5x Zoom mode is actually a 3.0 crop factor. FYI

Just so you don't multiply focal lengths with 5x in the future.

or perhaps I'm wrong regarding the 500D?

but that crop factor... uurgh, makes me sick

5D RAW II all the way on my end.

Are you using any kind of upscaling ?

A lot of the upscaling software out there will generate grids like these.

Because what comes out of the camera is 100, 200, 400, etc, iso. 160, 320, etc etc are applied as digital gain, aka processing done inside of the camera. This matters in h.264 because that is what is written to the file. However, the raw file is still only 100, or 200, or whatever you shot it at. When you open the raw file up in your editor of choice the digital gain is just  metadata. Basically, something that you can change at will. You can take a 200 iso raw file and make it look exactly like the 160 iso raw file. When you open the file up in ACR there is a whole lot of metadata being displayed. That isn't necessarily bad, but it's faulty to think that's what is coming off of the sensor. Open the same DNGs up in Resolve and switch the colorspace to BMD film. That will give you a flat log profile that comes right off of the sensor.

Now, I haven't been able to do my tests yet to confirm this 100%, but that is how I understand it to work. I know for a fact that's how metadata and ACR works. Now whether or not the difference in raw files between 160 iso and 200 iso is just metadata... I'm going to have to test that, which I definitely plan on doing.

However what I do know is that anything other than the native ISOs (100, 200, 400, etc) when shooting raw is processing applied after coming off the sensor and by definition raw files do not have any processing burned into the image.

After my latest test, I agree with this. My "extreme" iso tests all showed to be at 3200 ISO. even though they were set at 12000 iso etc.

What ISO are you guys using when shooting 5D2 Raw?

A couple of weeks ago I did a quickt test to see how the Raw video changes depending on the ISO setting and I found that the higher the ISO, the less noise was visible. Can that be right?

If I remember correctly, I also saw a kind of "grouping" of certain ISOs; meaning that the actual exposure was similar between multiple ISOs.

This "grouping" you speak of, I might be able to testify to that.

Cause a week ago or so me and a friend of mine were comparing extreme low light performance between my 5dii and his FS100.

We had ISO's ranging from 12000, 6400 and 3200. But when I looked at the DNG's the extreme ISO scenes were all at the same exposure.
6400 and 12000 are pushed from 3200 native iso. they were all exposed like the 3200 ISO. But in camera they looked brighter. Quite weird, but I guess there isn't too much difference between pushing ISO in camera and pushing it in ACR. I've had great results in ACR.


PS. I beat his FS1000. Some of his scenes seemed brighter and vice versa, but the 5D RAW II had much sharper images. FS100 records in AVCHD (standard) with some kind of "box" it can record AVI Uncompressed 12 bit, not sure how that compares to RAW.

@Kharak
The app is based on raw2dng from scrax and it's limited. I want to do more like RAWMagic, so I need to start from Ground Zero. I notice you do a lot of crop mode recording, you could try this version: https://bitbucket.org/a_d_/laboratory/downloads

@ a.d. Thanks man, I'll give it a try.

@ SpcCb. Have faith my friend, believe in the magic (lantern) that is being performed on our beloved 5D's. I suggest you go for as fast a card as possible. Its not just the max speed in which the camera will be able to record in, but speaking from my experience. I had a 60 MB/s card and then upgraded to a 128gb 150 MB/s card, Recording speed hits max ofcourse, but also the transfer rate is phenomenal! Moving footage at 100-140 MB/s (it varies) is fast! and saves you a lot of time if your on set or out in the field and need to empty your card during takes. It all depends on what you gonna use it for.

On another note, having a 42 gb limit is not something I see as a problem. Most I've recorded was 26 gb, once when I was filming a trawler breaking through waves and was waiting for that one big splash. But I felt how hot my card and camera got around the CF slot. So stopped in between and did 10 gig takes at a time. But other than that, I really don't see me ever gonna film 128 gb in one take, professionally. The 5D RAW II is not an interview camera

@Doyle4
Sorry, Currently I don't have much times for it, 'cause I need to code from scratch! (procrastinate)
@Pijer
Yes, more infos please!

Yo! a.d. My king!

Can you clarify a bit on why you need to code from scratch?

With love.

Your eternal servant.

Kharak

Everything is set to manual, after I formatted and re installed, both the jumping exposure and the pink flashes seem to have disappeared.

The red dot is a dead pixel but it only appears in video mode, does not come up in photos. There is a lot of talk about it but no one seems to have a solution other than sending it in?

Glad it worked for ya.

Regarding the dead pixel.. I used to have one, that was before RAW. But there is a way for you to do a manual Sensor Cleaning which will fix certain "dead" pixels (worked for me). I don't remember the specifics, but you can google it or youtube it. Basically you go in to canon menu and select manual sensor cleaning, you click it and the camera will start doing a sensor cleaning indefinitely. When I did it, I was told to let the camera clean for 1 min. You can't control anything in the mean time, if I remember correctly. So not sure if you have to just turn off the camera or not. But these are the basics. I suggest you google this to get confirmation. There is a video on youtube which explains it.

If convert RAW file to ProRes 444 in raw2dng -  all good! And all frame in timeline)))))))))) but import dng sequence folder has error and drop frame...   YES Interpret footage!!!!!All good!
Thank you ! And sorry my caveman's english!)))))

When I look at your Timecode, in both Prores 444 and After Effects I see it goes out of sync right before the 3 sec mark.

In both cases I see it starts jumping 0.02 frames.

or is it just me?

On your Slate you write 24 fps, do you have FPS overide set to 24 frames per second (Exact). Cause thats not 23,976 fps. and that will put your timecode out of sync eventually.

Sorry for my English)) Camera don't stop recording, it write 65 -70 mb/s  1 min

I can't really tell on that footage if the camera is skipping frames or not, but there might be another thing causing your RAW footage to go off sync on your Timecode. If you are using After Effects, then it will by default import your DNG sequence in 30 fps.

You need to Right Click your footage in project manager and click Interpret Footage and set the fps to 23,976. Also go in to Preferences >> Import and change 'Sequence Footage' to 23,976 so that After effects will import future sequences in that framerate.

Hope this solves your problem

  Yes  frame skipping with a 1000x (KomputerBay, and Transcend).... today test with build 23.09.....Frame skipping setting  (OFF)  Any build made fast video( may be 20-18 f/s) any - drop and strobe effect....

Sorry my friend, but its kinda hard for me to understand the last part of your reply.

With frame skipping OFF. how many frames do you get until the camera stops recording with FPS Overide at 23,976?

I haven't tried the newest build yet, so maybe there is something in the newest build? anyone else got an answer for that?

Thank you Kharak

Few issues

1. Getting pink flashes on screen when I start recording.

2. ISO is jumping after I start recording. What can I change to disable that/Lock ISO??

3. Is there any way to get the DOT microfocus back or was it not feasible??

Thanks

1. Never had this issue man, so I suggest you format card in camera and re-install ML. Or are these just flashes on the screen or do you also see pink flashes on the actual DNG's?

2. Not sure about this, is you ISO set to Auto in canon menu? Your dial on top of the camera, needs to be at M - Mode (Manual).

3. Are you referring to Focus peaking? Cause its available in the last 3-4 builds. Called FPeaking in menu I think and there is Digic peaking which you adjust according to the FPeaking.


Hope it helps.

What are you think about this timecode test
http://vimeo.com/75204373

5d markII;  1872x796; s Jpg; 23.976f/s override

drop frame ....

Do you have frame skipping allowed? Cause then it will drop frames and continue recording.

then again, 1872x796 shouldn't cause frame skipping with a 1000x. What build are you on?

Hey I know this is probably a silly nooby question, and most don't get answered but;

When updating to the latest nightly builds I've just been using the original build and overwriting the with the new ML and Autoexe.bin file is this the correct way to do it?

Yes

I used magic bullet denoiser 2. It works great with regular footage, but with raw its extremely effective, and very easy to use. Thanks man and good luck! Post your footage I would like to see it.

This was shot at ISO 2500eq and later pushed the exposure +1.00 in ACR, was just fooling around and was surprised at how little sensor patterns and other noises were visible before the noise reduction.

Used Neat Video Pro

More specs in video description.

Hey everyone I was recently hired by this yoga studio to shoot a video at Whole Foods. I shot the whole thing in raw, except for the time lapse's of course.  Oh and by the way, it was almost totally dark on that roof, i used absolutely no lights. most of the time I was in 3200iso or 6400iso. Let me know what you think. Thank you ML!

~Dustin

dolphincreativemedia.com

Nice, I recorded some 3200 iso shots last night. Haven't had a look at them yet, but your video made me wanna do it right now!

Did you use NeatVideo? or ?

I asked for help a couple of days ago or 2-3 pages back, regarding Crop Mode. As it was not working properly on my 5D MK II.
I had a black border on the right side of my frame. some 30-50 pixels.

Thanks to Reddercity I managed to do a complete re-install of ML and now I get full resolution in crop mode. BUT! Recording time is so small! Only 300-400 frames.

Now I'm not sure, but with whatever weird build I had mixed with the newest build, before I re-installed. I could sometimes record continuesly in crop mode. Now this was ofcourse with those 30-50 missing pixel grids on the right side of the frame, but even now when I've tried 2048 instead of 2152, its still pretty much the same amount of frames.

I find this very weird. Unless perhaps my camera never recorded with higher resolution in crop mode and just 3x'ed the image in to normal 1880x800.

How many frames do people normally get with 2152x916 and 2048x9xx (2:35.1) ?

With regards.

Kharak.

[EDIT:]

i install ML via the EOScard.exe, on  windows, than download the latest Raw record module
copy the New AUTOEXEC.Bin in the  Root of card,  That will replace the one that's  there
and copy the Module fold to the ML folder.
Then you have to activate the module you when to use.
Then reboot camera , That it

Thank you for the answer.

Never heard of Eoscard until now. But I see its the better solution than my first clean installation and will hopefully fix the issue I've had with crop mode.

I only copied files on my first Raw installation and then been overwriting them since. Have had no issues though, except for my crop mode black border.


EDIT: Posted simultaneously as Reddercity in above post. You mention Magic.sym I will try to delete only that file and see where that takes me on my crop mode agenda. If no change I will continue with complete re-instal

Can someone help me do a complete re-install of ML RAW.

I've only updated builds since the beginning and don't even remember how I installed it at first place.

This is what I think I have to do.

1. Format Card.

2. Install 5D RAW Alpha Build.

3. Do firmware update (this is where I am in much doubt)

4. Overite with newest build.

Am I correct ?