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Shot a little test of raw footage earlier on my Sandisk Extreme 45Mb/s card and these artifacts showed up every few frames -

So just wondering what the optimum settings were to shoot Raw, I know shooting full res is out of the windows (I shot at  864x486).

Thanks

I don't know if this is the correct place, please move if not.

But basically, I'd like to request a crop mark that is 1080p but shows the regular DVD 16:9 frame size within the center. I would make it myself but whenever I've tried they've never worked for some reason.

Those stills aren't raw, they are taken from a video file.

Get a reputable card  that does 90-120mbps.

Aren't Scandisk a reputable card maker?

I've had a quick look at the ML ISOs and I can't say I see any difference? (apart from brightness of the 800 over the 700)

ML 700 ISO (800 with -0.3ev ML) - http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/7652727356_c1e416bb43_h.jpg
Canon 700 ISO (800 with -0.3ev Canon) - http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8017/7652723946_f8b0c6ff22_h.jpg
Canon 800 ISO - http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7274/7652720492_07ecc4670a_h.jpg

So with 1/47 being green, I presume that is the best setting for 24fps?

I used Magic Lantern on a shoot today and it seemed like sometimes it would work and sometimes not? How is it that you use it?

I start the camera and press the trash can, then when I press it again or go to the menu then it is Canons regular version that the camera had. So my question is how is it that I am supposed to exactly use Magic Lantern and avoid using Canon's stock version?

Thanks

Pressing the Menu button will take you to the Canon menu. ML's menu is always accessed via the Trash Can button.

Also, if you press Display while in liveview, it clears Magic Lantern's global draw and displays the stock view in LV. You just need to press DISP again to get back to ML.

I've had a quick look at the ML ISOs and I can't say I see any difference (apart from brightness of the 800 over the 700)?

ML 700 ISO (800 with -0.3ev ML) - http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/7652727356_c1e416bb43_h.jpg
Canon 700 ISO (800 with -0.3ev Canon) - http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8017/7652723946_f8b0c6ff22_h.jpg
Canon 800 ISO - http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7274/7652720492_07ecc4670a_h.jpg

Format your cards in camera, rather then on a PC/Mac. If you do it in camera, Magic Lantern will automatically restore.

Yeah, I couldn't select 1/48 for the 24fps but only 1/46.9. Anyway to select 1/48 in the latest version?

This is getting mightily confusing.

SuperHans, I downloaded your file to, as you say, compare. But what exactly am I meant to compare it to? It looks good, but compared to what?

Well you can select the different bit rates on the layers, turn them on and off, and you have to zoom in to see any difference really, the main thing you can notice is how less blocky it looks the higher bit rate.

I would usually just stick with the default bit rate Canon uses.

I tested it today, I test both 1.0 and 1.4 and imported it into Premier Pro, it had the same average data rate (Premiere doesn't display it the same in format). What I shot didn't have any movement in or anything so presumably why the bit rate was the same.

When I did a test ages ago with the Q-Scale adjustment, I uploaded a PSD to compare - http://www.mediafire.com/?1131udow967dn9q
I found I could get 85mbps the most on the cards I was using at the time (Class 6 I think). It was no means a scientific test. On that version I think you had to disable sound, global draw etc to get that high.

I'd like to be able to get 60/70mbps with sound and global draw on but I don't think you can?

The people who are saying they cant see much difference, have you checked the data rate/bit rate of the file to see if it is actually different?