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  Should my camera really look like this?




It's good that the camera body is getting hot. It means heat is being dissipated.

I suspect the heat isn't strictly down to the sensor either. The extra heat is 1) the LCD being on for long periods and 2) the CF card and circuitry working overtime. Continuous CF writing will be drawing more current from the battery too and that will cause heat build-up.

The cameras have inbuilt protection against overheating. If any component(s) were to fail, my guess would be the LCD suffering first. Thankfully there are no reports of that happening so I think we're safe.

Latest Magic Lantern and Tragic Lantern 2.0 builds are up:

Magic Lantern (Unified with raw):- https://bitbucket.org/andy600/andy50d/downloads

Tragic Lantern 2.0:- https://bitbucket.org/andy600/tl50d/downloads

Fixes:-

Raw histogram - Highlight warning dots are back + Small speed-up.
Zebra - minor tweaks

(As ever, check first to see if GregoryOfManhatten has uploaded a newer Unified build before using mine.)

Damn that's a big lens 

Nice end-results though 

@nyce_images - Your playback problems are in no way related to the CF card you use. Also the Atmos Ninja 2 will not record raw, infact there is no way (currently) for ML raw video to be recorded to any external device.

If you can playback footage in PPro and not Vegas 12 then obviously Vegas is the problem. Why not just use Premier Pro if you have it?

If you have problems playing back a rendered H.264, MP4 or whatever it is probably because you set the bit rate higher than what your hardware can handle.

If you don't see the advantages of raw video then yes, consider sticking to H.264 recording.

Just to clarify.. I take it there is no way to get past the 4gb RAW file limit?

Sorta defeats the 50d's writing speed capabilities.. at 1584x856 I can't seem to more than a min of continous footage..

If your card can record continuously it will record split files up to the cards limit. You just need to use an app or script to stitch them together. Raw2cdng will do it automatically

Hey all,

I've tried MacBoot on a 10.7.5 and a 10.8.4 machine and still am getting the "firmware not found" error.
Then I downloaded EOScard on a PC running windows XP. Still no luck. Can't get the thing to boot inside my 50D.

Anyone have a solutions?

The card mounts on all the computers and BlackMagic Speed Test shows its fast.

Thanks.

Read the installation instructions again, specifically the bit about card size

Why not make a wiki or even a Wordpress page with free access for others to help out?

I designed an app that allows this easily if you want an account at www.openbuk.com - I'll contribute a free account for this use if the community wants one. Just lmk

Hey thanks

Yes, I've thought of doing something like that and I'll be happy to contribute towards a general Magic Lantern guide when I have time but I want to finish the 50D downloadable guide first as it's a special project.

I'm using your latest build. I'll try manual WB. Here is a screen shot of my try to run Raw2dng

[spoiler]

[/spoiler]

Try this one: https://bitbucket.org/andy600/andy50d/downloads/raw2dng.exe

Oh ok!

I hope I can share too in the future. I was trying to git pull the other day but was failing. I hope someone here can provide the .git link

Magic Lantern source code is hosted on Bitbucket https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/src

Coolio! Am I right that you own Tragic Lantern?

No, it's 1% who does the hard work. Tragic Lantern is his baby. He's the clever one  I just compile it.

I'm learning code but still a long way off being able to contribute anything.

It's coming but it's a lot of work and I have to write it in between other work. I have about 40 pages written so it won't be too much longer

Lots of questions keep popping up from new users who don't bother to include any details of their camera. Maybe there should (at least) be a mandatory camera model field in the forum registration form rather than relying on users to add profile information. There are nearly 25k registered users here now. Lots of us try to help new members but it's a pain to always have to ask "what camera are you talking about". Also, the more information members provide in their sig, the better.

Skate3 - maybe include the model of your camera in your questions. Then use the search function. 

It's like asking "how long is a piece of string?"

[File Splitter & Joiner]

Nice video.

Try using Raw2CDNG. It does work with files longer than 4GB.

You first rename split files (so that they have extensions .001, .002, etc) and then use the free program File Splitter & Joiner to join them.

Then you feed the resulting files to Raw2CDNG -- it should work. It worked for me.

UPDATED: also I had been a fan of 28 May Build for long since it was stable and firm as a rock. Now I use Andy's new build and I would encourage you to try it -- you'll like it as well -- PINK frames are a history :

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5586.msg59779#msg59779

I wouldn't advise anyone to use the 28 May build. Too much has changed and lots of issues have since been fixed and continue to be fixed.

My latest builds are here https://bitbucket.org/andy600/andy50d/downloads (Unified) or here: https://bitbucket.org/andy600/tl50d/downloads (Tragic Lantern 2.0)

My Unified build is effectively the same code that GregoryOfManhatten compiles here: https://bitbucket.org/GregoryOfManhattan/magic-lantern/downloads so check for whichever of ours is newer. His is currently.

Tragic Lantern 2.0 has better raw video performance and better shutter control but if you are a newbie I would suggest waiting for the coming 50D guide before trying it as some of the settings (and quirks) are undocumented and need explanation.

@thorstone137 - First, why are jumping in and out of Live View and changing settings? Also, I noticed you have auto WB enabled. Set WB manually or at least use a preset (daylight, cloudy, tungsten etc). I don't know if auto WB will cause color shift during a shot but my guess is that it could.

The 'purple' frame issue is something else. What build are you using?

Regarding your conversion problem. Interlacing error? I've not seen this before  . Is Raw2dng.exe displaying this error and if so can you explain the steps you are taking to see the error? Does it happen when you drag-and-drop a raw file onto raw2dng.exe.

My shutter is constantly changing to 1/33 when I gear up the ISO above 200. At ISO 100 I can get 1/48, but when I try to change the ISO things go south - the top LCD shows 1/50 but LV shows 1/33 and somthing like ISO 800eq when I'm on ISO 1600. THat is with Gregory's latest build, also with Tragic Lantern 2.0.

Do you have exposure override enabled and what mode are you in?

Are you using auto ETTR? If so, switch it off.

re: top display - http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5586.msg60835#msg60835

Read through the last page or so. I explained how to set up and 1% explained that the top LCD shows photographic shutter speed. When you're shooting raw video you're in movie mode. Magic Lantern values are the correct ones.

Green values = exactly how it sounds. The shutter numbers are green (or blue or red).

As I said earlier, using C1 or C2 will load settings exactly as they were saved unless overriden by magic lantern settings. If your shutter value is constantly changing you're either playing with the front wheel or some other ML setting is affecting things.

The wheel (above shutter button) controls framerate and use top ISO button to change ISO

I realize these modules can and will be buggy, and I'm not trying to make a motion picture or doing and commercial work. However, I really would like to start getting consistent results.

And because you are working on a manual so to speak. I'm still meerky when it comes to get a that consistent shutter speed. Should I be prioritizing the FPS (23.976 or 24 for that cinematic look) and let the shutter speed do it's thing?

Or should I be using filters to make sure I always get the shutter speed correct?

It's a big topic but for a quick and very basic set up:

Set FPS to 23.976, 24 or 25p with FPS Override (set FPS override to exact)
Set shutter speed to one of the green values (these are approx 180 degrees)
Set histogram to raw
use the aperture and ISO to push exposure to the right of the histogram. If you see a "-" in front of the exposure value on the histogram you are clipping i.e. E1.0 is ok but E-1.0 is clipping so adjust your aperture and/or ISO to pull it back.

As I say, this is a pretty big topic with many variations of settings either for the shooting conditions, subject matter or for effect (i.e. Private Ryan) but these settings will get you started with (when used properly) good motion blur and good exposure. Don't forget to conform your footage in your NLE to whatever framerate you set FPS override to or you'll get glitchy playback.

If you let the shutter go wild you'll get un-natural looking footage so either try to stay at or around 2x your framerate and then read up on when and why to change the shutter speed.

Hi,

I see many exposure issues and questions for RAW recording.
I am quite new with ML and RAW recording but from my experience so far the best idea is to put exp. override=ON and set ISO and shutter to fixed value (for fps=24 shutter can not be higher then 1/24). I have fully manual lens (Samyang vdslr) so changing aperture continuously during filming.
Don't you think this is the best idea which gives you full control?

Exp override = yes

Shutter speed depends on what you are shooting or what look you are trying to achieve for the motion/motion blur. 1/24 at 24p is a 360 degree shutter. The typical shutter speed for natural motion blur is fps x2 so 24fps would mean 1/48 shutter speed. Go higher for less motion blur and a more choppy look and lower for low light (only if you have to).

ISO is wholly dependent on what you need to achieve correct exposure at your chosen aperture and shutter speed.

Answered many times already. Raw video can not be output via HDMI and there is no way to record raw other than direct to the CF card, despite numerous ideas and attempts to build CF-to-external drive adapters.

I need some help plz.

Any help would be much apreciated. Thx.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJzgpIdoUqw

For exposing correctly for raw video make sure the histogram is first enabled for RAW. You need to set it up and make sure 'hint's are enabled' so you can manually ETTR.

The auto ETTR module is fantastic for photos but it will alter your shutter speed in video mode and you don't really want that.  If it's too bright you will need to stop-down you lens but (depending on your lens) I wouldn't suggest going to the last stop as it may cause diffraction problems. Get a variable ND filter. It's vital in bright conditions TBH.

....It has some... feature that you must be aware of (at least in my camera): when you rotate the front wheel to change the shutter speed, nothing may change. Keep rotating, and the values will start changing.

yes, I've noticed that too. Seems to only change the value on every other click of the wheel.

I haven't had time to finish writing my guide yet but I would suggest to anyone starting out with raw video on the 50D to first learn the basics of the camera.

I have found that using a custom preset is the least problematic. In other modes the camera will function and behave as it should but may cause issues for video and you might mistake those problems as bugs or Magic Lantern problems.

I suggest you dial-in M on the top dial then write this to either C1 or C2 (custom preset locations). This has proven to be the least problematic for me and it's also 'safer' to use one of these memory spaces. The 50D doesn't have a video mode so C1 or C2 will become that. (btw, C1/C2 will always load as saved so WB, ISO etc will default to saved values unless overridden by Magic Lantern).