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It's nice, but there seems to be a fair bit of flickering going on in the video. Nevertheless, I hope to see this implemented in the main builds, because this eliminates the need for a ND filter to accommodate the shutter speeds imposed by FPS override.

No. As long as you record in movie mode (not photo!), the exposure values will be the ones displayed by ML (not by Canon!)

Yup I always record RAW video in movie mode, I've never tried it in photo mode. It's a habit I suppose, a stupid one, since I have to rotate the mode dial all the way around (I'm using 60D)

By the way, does Auto ETTR work when the screen is off? With RAW video now being able to record with the screen off, it is highly unlikely that one would leave the screen on if they are shooting a time lapse video. Does everything continue running in the background even if the screen is off? What happens if global draw off is set in powersave options?

Edit: Even though Auto ETTR seems to say that it works in video mode as long as you shoot RAW video, but it doesn't seem to work (it doesn't change any exposure parameters despite me intentionally setting parameters that underexpose the image). It sometimes seem to change the ISO, but it somehow quickly changes back to what I had set earlier, resulting in the original underexposed image. It sometimes also say VSync err.

Edit 2: After further testing, I found that the Auto ETTR errors are related to using FPS override. When FPS override is used (at least with the FPSes that I tested), Auto ETTR will not work, and it will show a VSync error.

Edit 3: Upon even further testing, Auto ETTR does work even with FPS override (it still shows the VSync error), but the live view image never shows the actual image nor does it appear to change any image parameters, but the video is of correct exposure.

So it means that as long as ExpSim is on, RAW video will capture based on whatever exposure parameters I set? Cool.

I know that using the intervalometer with Auto ETTR and post-deflicker is the best way to do time lapse videos. But I'm stubborn like that and want to try to make RAW video work for time lapse.

I've read somewhere in a thread here that when you use ExpSim, the image in the live view isn't really of the exposure details you key in, it's something like 1/30 with a ramped up ISO to show you what the image would look like if you dialed in those exposure settings. So let's say my exposure parameters are F4, 5s (0.2 fps override), ISO 100, what does the camera capture (in terms of exposure parameters) when I hit the record button? I'm talking about RAW video here, which, correct me if I'm wrong, works similarly to silent pictures which grabs the images from the live view buffer.

Additional thoughts
-Is there any difference if I use normal (non-RAW) video?
-What happens if I turn off ExpSim?

I am downloading the auto generated builds from the first post of the thread and i get error 80 whenever i try to load modules with the latest build. Anybody else has the same problem?

Yes I get the same problem. Just use the older builds provided in dropbox, they work fine for me. Just keep going one build older until you get one that works.

Hi,

I was just wondering how does one go about processing RAW HDR Video in Linux. I'm toying around with using it for time lapse videos.

Right now what I do is I extract the DNGs, then process them in Darktable, export them to JPGs and then I'm stuck there. I need to enfuse the JPGs and then put them in something like Avidemux to render it into a video. I have tried (and failed quite miserably in) installing KImageFuser. I've also tried running EnfuseGUI in Wine and in a virtual machine running Windows 7, but they just return an error to me that says that my Enfuse version is invalid. I've tried copying over the enfuse.exe and enfuse_noopenmp.exe from Hugin, but that didn't solve the problem either.

Is there an alternative workflow that I can use? Or is there a way I can batch enfuse the files via a script? I've tried looking at the enfuse script used in the ML HDR video processing, but that doesn't work for me because my files aren't named A*.jpg and B*.jpg (and I don't know how to rename them as such; I only know how to rename them as a sequence)

I don't mind running stuff via Wine or Virtual Machine, as long as they work.

Any help would be much appreciated 

Go to 3rd tab of ML menu (Overlay), and set Global Draw (first menu item) to all modes.

It is already set to all modes, but this still happens

Hi,

I was wondering if it was possible to enable HDR bracketing via a toggle (hold some button, say set, and press shutter to shoot as a HDR bracket) rather than enabling it in the menu. The rationale for this is to prevent accidental shooting of a HDR bracket, which can waste a lot of a user's time if he/she accidentally leaves it on, especially so if the ambient light is dim or if a ND filter is being used.

There are also times when you want to shoot test shots in between exposure brackets and it is slightly troublesome to dig through the menus to enable and disable HDR bracketing.

Hi,

I can't figure out a way to permanently enable ML overlay in playback mode. If I clear the Canon overlays by pressing info until they are all gone, ML overlays still don't appear until I press the Unlock button (I'm using 60D). Even so, if I scroll to another photo in playback mode, the ML overlay disappears again until I press the Unlock button. Is there a way to make the ML overlays stay on whenever the Canon overlays are off in the Playback mode?

In live view, ML overlays work fine.

Switch to Av/Tv mode and meter scene.  Take note of settings and apply to M mode.

If you need to keep pressing the "green" button, you should probably just stick Av/Tv.

Also note, that the exposure meter still works in M mode.

I think this could be useful in some situations. For instance, changing from a long shutter speed to a fast one. Instead of turning the dial for about 5 seconds, just press the button and it does everything for you.

Hello,
Many people chose 60d for filming,because of manual audio control.Thanks to Magic Lantern we can reach the manual control on 550d.I'm wondering is 60d worth to pay extra cash now?I'm stucked with these two models.I can buy lenses with 60d's difference if I buy 550d.What do you suggest?
Thanks.

Maybe for filming, yes. But for photos, it's really hard to use only 1 dial if you're used to having two. Also the 60D's AF system is better than the 550D/600D. Whether or not those are important to you depends on your usage and what you're used to. If you've never used 2 dials before, 1 dial seems to be good enough. But once you've used 2 dials, one dial just doesn't cut it IMO.

In theory, with nightly builds you even get correct exposure simulation (enable exposure override and FPS override in M mode). See FAQ.

So in the nightly builds, if, say, I stick on a 10 stop ND filter and set my camera settings for a correct exposure, say 30s at F8 and ISO 100, what does ML do?

Does it raise the ISO temporarily for the LV image to retain a reasonable frame rate while still giving a reasonably bright image? Or what does it do?

I have no qualms installing nightly builds, but since I don't have a Canon camera to install ML atm, I can't test it 

Hi,

I don't yet have a Canon camera but have been researching about Magic Lantern for some time and have decided to switch to Canon so that I can use ML firmware (still don't have a Canon camera though).

I'm very interested in the Live View Display Gain feature and I just want to ask how it works here. I love my 10 stop ND filter and use it a lot, so this feature is something I'm really excited about. However, I'm wondering if anyone has had any experiences using it with strong ND filters. I'm thinking if it is possible to leave the 10 stop ND filter on in between shots while changing compositions, so obviously you need to be able to see something in Live View with the filter on.

Has anyone had any experiences using LV display gain with a strong ND filter and how does it turn out? Is it possible to at least make out some details so you can compose the shot? Or must I still take off my ND filter if I want to compose the shot? I don't have a square filter system so it's not as simple as sliding it up and down.

Thanks!