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A while ago proportional fonts was implemented so we don't have huge fonts making the menus look ugly, and it worked great.

Today after I loaded in a nightly build I compiled, the font size became huge again. Any idea what is causing this weird behaviour? I've tried downloading a prebuilt nightly and using it, but fonts remained huge.

Hi,

I'm not sure if this is a bug or if it's caused by a certain setting, but whenever I view a dual ISO image in playback mode, the image is just a blurry mess. It goes back to normal if I zoom in, but at the normal playback size, the image will first appear normal for about half a second (apart from the bars of alternate ISOs), then become a blurry mess (a small black box with containing either "dark" or "bright" shows up as well, and I assume it's showing which parts would be used from the dark and bright areas respectively - or something like that). Sometimes I am able to see the dual ISO images normally (without the blurring effect), but I cannot reproduce that outcome.

How do I view the dual ISO images "normally"? I don't mind having the bars of alternate ISOs, but having the blurry images makes previewing the images almost useless. Since I do see the non-blurry preview for half a second + the image isn't blurry if I zoom in, there has to be a way that the preview can stay non-blurry, right?

Hi, I like to do a lot of long exposures with an ND filter, specifically a 10 stop one. The expo preset function is pretty useful, but I think its functionality can be extended by providing an option to use it to offset exposure rather than storing two exposure presets. The reason is that when shooting with a 10 stop ND filter, you spend a lot of time just spinning the dial to get the exposure to change by 10 stops. If you stack ND filters, it's even worse, and you spend a lot of time just changing exposure between shots.

So a simple function could be added to the expo presets to make it just offset the exposure by a fixed number of stops. Press it once and it increases exposure time by a fixed number of stops, press again and it decreases it back to the original exposure time. Or something similar.

Recently after installing the nightly build (the 22 Sep one) for my 60D, I saw a "Memory error" under my debug menu. It says Last error: 4 at libtcc.c:222, task module_task

Should I be worrying?

Hi,

I'm still very new to scripting and stuff like that, so I need a little help here. I want to write a bash loop to edit the .UFRAW files from post deflicker to offset the exposure by a fixed amount for every file. This is because sometimes, the exposure changes generated by post deflicker are not optimal (making the image way too bright or way too dark).

Also, is it possible to apply post deflicker after editing (and exporting) files in other image processing software like darktable or RAWTherapee? The RAW DNG files contain so much more dynamic range compared to the tiffs I export from ufraw, and somehow hot/dead pixels aren't recognised in the tiffs too (hot/dead pixel removal works perfect with the DNGs, but ceases to work on anything other than raw files). Workflow for Auto ETTR post deflicker time lapses is quite easy if you have Lightroom because xmp files integrate directly with it, but if you don't, it's a bit tricky.

How do I do it properly? I tried it one day for a sunset time lapse, but post deflicker decided to decrease the exposure so much that everything became underexposed. If anyone's interested, here's a tiff file exported by ufraw (no edits, only the exposure change from post deflicker). https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BzFGDdZw7pVwcDRaWWpsQXhwOTA/edit?usp=sharing It's the first frame of the entire time lapse sequence, shot about 20 minutes before sunset time.

Is it that the post deflicker target was too low? I had it at the default of -4EV (I think the first frame was about -2EV)

Or should I use a higher percentage highlight ignore in Auto ETTR because my shot included a lot of the sky?

Anyone?? I'm pretty sure the combination of Auto ETTR and post deflicker is not supposed to produce such massively underexposed images.

Mainly useful for time lapse recording using raw video. Is this something that will be considered?

Before the suggestions on using RAW DNG silent pics instead pour in, I've found a few problems while using it:
-Interval between shots are slower than the interval set in intervalometer, at least for the intervals that I've tested. Makes it very unpredictable to use
-No recording while screen off (available in RAW video with memory hack)
-Offers no advantage in terms of deflickering compared to RAW video, since it doesn't write the XMP files
-Limit of 1000 shots (as reported by others, I've never exceeded 1000 shots in any time lapse)

I also have no idea how to do picoC scripting, but if anyone can point me in the right direction on how to make a script to trigger Auto ETTR at fixed intervals, that would be fine as well

I know that using the intervalometer with Auto ETTR and post-deflicker is the best way to do time lapse videos. But I'm stubborn like that and want to try to make RAW video work for time lapse.

I've read somewhere in a thread here that when you use ExpSim, the image in the live view isn't really of the exposure details you key in, it's something like 1/30 with a ramped up ISO to show you what the image would look like if you dialed in those exposure settings. So let's say my exposure parameters are F4, 5s (0.2 fps override), ISO 100, what does the camera capture (in terms of exposure parameters) when I hit the record button? I'm talking about RAW video here, which, correct me if I'm wrong, works similarly to silent pictures which grabs the images from the live view buffer.

Additional thoughts
-Is there any difference if I use normal (non-RAW) video?
-What happens if I turn off ExpSim?

Hi,

I was just wondering how does one go about processing RAW HDR Video in Linux. I'm toying around with using it for time lapse videos.

Right now what I do is I extract the DNGs, then process them in Darktable, export them to JPGs and then I'm stuck there. I need to enfuse the JPGs and then put them in something like Avidemux to render it into a video. I have tried (and failed quite miserably in) installing KImageFuser. I've also tried running EnfuseGUI in Wine and in a virtual machine running Windows 7, but they just return an error to me that says that my Enfuse version is invalid. I've tried copying over the enfuse.exe and enfuse_noopenmp.exe from Hugin, but that didn't solve the problem either.

Is there an alternative workflow that I can use? Or is there a way I can batch enfuse the files via a script? I've tried looking at the enfuse script used in the ML HDR video processing, but that doesn't work for me because my files aren't named A*.jpg and B*.jpg (and I don't know how to rename them as such; I only know how to rename them as a sequence)

I don't mind running stuff via Wine or Virtual Machine, as long as they work.

Any help would be much appreciated 

Hi,

I was wondering if it was possible to enable HDR bracketing via a toggle (hold some button, say set, and press shutter to shoot as a HDR bracket) rather than enabling it in the menu. The rationale for this is to prevent accidental shooting of a HDR bracket, which can waste a lot of a user's time if he/she accidentally leaves it on, especially so if the ambient light is dim or if a ND filter is being used.

There are also times when you want to shoot test shots in between exposure brackets and it is slightly troublesome to dig through the menus to enable and disable HDR bracketing.

Hi,

I can't figure out a way to permanently enable ML overlay in playback mode. If I clear the Canon overlays by pressing info until they are all gone, ML overlays still don't appear until I press the Unlock button (I'm using 60D). Even so, if I scroll to another photo in playback mode, the ML overlay disappears again until I press the Unlock button. Is there a way to make the ML overlays stay on whenever the Canon overlays are off in the Playback mode?

In live view, ML overlays work fine.

Hi,

I don't yet have a Canon camera but have been researching about Magic Lantern for some time and have decided to switch to Canon so that I can use ML firmware (still don't have a Canon camera though).

I'm very interested in the Live View Display Gain feature and I just want to ask how it works here. I love my 10 stop ND filter and use it a lot, so this feature is something I'm really excited about. However, I'm wondering if anyone has had any experiences using it with strong ND filters. I'm thinking if it is possible to leave the 10 stop ND filter on in between shots while changing compositions, so obviously you need to be able to see something in Live View with the filter on.

Has anyone had any experiences using LV display gain with a strong ND filter and how does it turn out? Is it possible to at least make out some details so you can compose the shot? Or must I still take off my ND filter if I want to compose the shot? I don't have a square filter system so it's not as simple as sliding it up and down.

Thanks!