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I understand the compression problem, it could destroy the separation from the lines making different iso useless, but even knowing this I would like to try... maybe it can give us an average result... why not to try?, it is not so difficult to enable dual iso for H264...

I also got another idea, maybe impossible, to implement a similar function from dng2hdr inside camera, so the camera would do the interpolation and iso merge before compression... this is the "dream"...

I believe someday the manufacturers will implement this kind of thing using a sensor similar to the 70D, there is also a new patent from canon showing the dual pixel af with different size pixels, great for different exposures...

I am also interested in this feature, to record dual iso in h264.

I did a try to enable dual iso without enablind the raw video module, but the green dot keeps a little dark and the dual iso just get enabled when I enable the raw video, so to test it, the developers need to make the dual iso independent from raw video module.

I am using the T3i / 600D and no money to get a 5D3. In 600D I am limited to record continous 24p raw at 960x544. The dual iso uses alternate lines for different exposure, so I belive the dual iso just will be ok using 1920x1080 resolution, so no way to get good quality dual iso raw from 600D at 24fps 16:9.

Also, even I could get a 5D3, considering the raw files large size, it would be impossible for me to shoot a short film or documentary in 1920x1080 raw...

So due to these reasons I would like to experiment the dual iso in H264 MOV. I think if I increase the CBR bitrate it would help the encoder to get better image using dual iso. Today I am using 1.3x because this makes the files playable in camera.

I think the workflow for H264 dual iso would be simple... convert the H264 video into a JPG image sequence and do the same workflow, drag and drop over the converter. Maybe it would need another converter? (JPG2HDR)? Or even better to drag and drop the MOV file direct over the converter: MOV2HDR

The HDR video is great for situations without so much movement and it works good in 720p 50p or 60p to get the overexposed frames without optical flow... but the dual iso can do this in images with movement in 1920 x 1080 because it does not need optical flow...

So can you enable the dual iso to work with H264? I would like to test it also.

Thanks

The 70D has a sensor where each pixel is a combination of two pixels, a dual pixel system for autofocus.

The idea is to use the 70D dual pixel system to enable two different iso exposure in each pixel and merge the two exposures in camera or in computer to get HDR video. Similar to the 5d3 dual iso in raw, but using the 70d dual pixel in H264 MOV instead of 5d3 sensor lines in RAW for the different iso.

This would solve the motion problem from the hdr video using different iso in subsequent frames and would solve the aliasing problem from hdr video using different iso in lines.

Maybe Canon will do this in future?... ML team could do early...

This is exactly what I mean in this post. You had the same idea, as many others did.

I also did a research about the Nikon D5200 and it can store 99 picture controls in the SD card and 9 picture controls in camera and load them from the sd card. But it lacks all the outstanding features of Magic Lantern Firmware...

Would be possible for the Magic Lantern Team to develop a function in the Magic Lantern Firmware to allow us to load custom picture styles from the SD card?

It would be nice because Canon cameras just allow to load 3 custom picture styles and there are lots of interesting picture styles around designed for different situations.

It would avoid the need of using Canon EOS Utility software and carry a notebook or a tablet to the location to load picture styles to the camera.

If this feature could be implemented we could have a folder inside the SD card with lots of picture styles to chose and load to the 3 customs positions in camera.

Thanks!

thanks for the tip.

I do not own a 650d or 700d, I own the 600d.

In 600D the benchmark keeps around 21MBps

Did some card speed tests in USB3.0 card reader in the PC with the CrystalDiskMark software:

The Sandisk Extreme 45MB/s 32GB SDHC UHS-1 Class 10 can read at 46,8MBps and Write from 40.5MBps to 42.7MBps

I will take a look!

Also you could try these other methods and let us know which is better, doing a video comparison...

http://nofilmschool.com/2010/06/how-to-remove-stuck-pixels-from-video-footage/

http://www.revisionfx.com/products/refill/overview/

hi, thanks for the advice... but I do not like the aliasing from 720p LV

I did some tests setting fps override to 40fps in 640x480 LV and started to change the timings.

640LV at default timings with fps set to 40 it shows 37,7 or so... changing timings values I got 36,477fps continous recording at 896x384, enough for some slowmotion... after some crop it will give me 870x384, 2,26666:1 aspect ratio, the same of 1088x480@23,976 or I can keep 896x384 as is and crop the other to 1088x466 to get both at 2,3333:1

I believe these two settings will works great for 1280 upscaling for widescreen similar to cinemascope, great for 720p projectors.

If you want extreme buffer for highest resolution and fps, the last build is better, but...

If the main goal is continous recording, the "New System" is the best build until now, no doubt, it works pretty well for continours recording with canon LV and the RAW menu and overlays are well done.

I would like to request 2 features, using "New System" as a base:

1 - implement 36fps in FPS Override menu, because it will give 1.5x slow motion in 24p video using 896x384 resolution, great for Cinemascope look and upscales pretty good for 1280x548, great for DLP or 3LCD projectors and for WEB. 896x384@36fps will allow continous recording, below 21MBps and intercuts good with 1088x480@24p. (to be honest I did not like the image quality using 720p in canon menu for raw slowmotion, image get lots of aliasing, so 896x384@36fps will be best option for slowmotion in 600d raw cinemascope look upscaled to 1280)

2 - enable a fourth line below the last overlay line in the bottom with the resolution and fps being used in the shoot for we see it while recording.

downloads for the "New System" increased a lot!

Thanks

Me? I use the Sandisk SDHC 32GB Extreme 45MB/s

In the USB 3.0 Card Reader in Windows Computer it shows 28MB/s write and 34MB/s read

Works great for all resolutions and fps in RAW recording in T3i 600D until something around 21MB/s when frames starts to skip

Yes John, I gave it a thought. I understood and agree. better shoot 12fps to do twixtor.

If some software just recreates one frame for each four frames the motion will have some stops, something like a balk, to stumble at each four frames, so it would be annoying, and the footage will looks like a fast speed.

These experiments with twixtor are interesting. I think if we can get as much fps as we can it will be better for twixtor results.

I would like to do a request:

enable 19,181 or 19,2 in fps override menu, because:

19,181 / 4 = 4,795 x 5 = 23,976

19,2 / 4 = 4,8 x 5 = 24

so twixtor will create one new frame for each four existing frames

(it is impossible to get 19,181 or 19,2 changing times in advanced menu, so it need to be enabled in the fps menu)

1088x608 works great @ 19fps so enabling 19,2 or 19, 181 will be usefull

when crop to 16x9 it will be 1080x608, a great use of almost all recorded pixels and probably good twixtor results (19,2 to 24)

I found a review comparing four methods discussed here in this topic: Photoshop, Blowup3, Photozoom, Perfectresize.

It will be good for some real examples:

The review: http://www.tipsquirrel.com/resize-software-a-retrospective/

Image comparisons (click in the image to zoom in or right click and save as to download):

200%: http://www.tipsquirrel.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/200.jpg

400%: http://www.tipsquirrel.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/400.jpg

600%: http://www.tipsquirrel.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/600.jpg

thanks guys!

I also found Acer has the Iconia W5 and W3 tablets and Sony has the VGN P series notebooks.

But this app for inexpensive and small Android phones and tablets made me hope if the task could be done, it can be used in a Samsung Galaxy phone, see:

http://dslrcontroller.com/

http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=42639193#post42639193

Ok, continue fooling themselves. If you really understand the process that would see the tutorial that just went completely flawed.
Seriously, sharpen before do resize? Come on! 

I would like to say that I do NOT fool people.

The solution I found was tested and compared with all other options discussed here in this topic. I downloaded a trial and did a try in EVERY software discussed here. Even testing sharpening BEFORE and AFTER upscaling. The comparisons were made ​​in separate dng files and also in dng sequences rendering videos.

Sometimes it is hard for people to accept that someone else found a better solution and people starts getting jealous and speak evil without even testing before speaking. Maybe it is some king of unfair competition... when someone starts to say sh*t about other people's work in an attempt to undermine the reliability and credibility.

Then I recommend to each one to test all methods and software mentioned here to realize that the workflow I found is actually the best.

Of course as I said, it has a little plastic look, but with a small amount of film grain there is no better solution for aliasing removal in upscaling 960x544 to 1920x1088 and crop to 1920x1080, and the final results looks great, better than all other options, without aliasing, without edge trembling, without artifacts.

you need to do the tweaking in ACR as I said in previous post and export the dng sequence as jpg or tif files. you need to create a catalog in lightroom, and import jpg or tif files to it because blowup3 do not works in dng files. then select all and edit in blowup3 and do the batch processing with 200% upscaling.

The sharpening in ACR must be 30 / 01 / 10 / 00 or lower, more than this will hurt the image, see previous posts for noise reduction settings.

Sorry, modesty away for a while, but I am really good in what I do, and I do things in a very scientific way. thanks to all the peolpe who helped here in this topic, and I recomend people who starts to go on in the wrong behavior to rethink things.

I have some hard work to do now, so I will keep away for a while.

I did a video rendering comparison to see the motion using a 960x544@24p RAW video from 600D.

There is no doubt for me anymore. Alien Skin BlowUp3 is the winner. No other can do a upscaling with aliasing free results as it does. also the objects edges does not tremble like in the others. the human face skin texture is good. The small amount of plastic look can be easily solved with a small amount of film grain simulation. It looks like it was shoot with a fullhd camera.

The tips are: enable defringe in ACR to remove color fringing, do the sharpening in ACR (30, 01, 10), do noise reduction in ACR: luma between 30 and 60, chroma 100 (detail zero in both), do the color and luma corrections as you like, render a 960x540 jpg sequence, import all jpg into LightRoom, and apply BlowUp3 using the batch processing (remove all sharpening from it, just enable 200%, or the upscaling amount you need), then render the upscaled jpg sequence into a video file with film grain applied to it.

BlowUp3 render times are faster also: 2,6x faster than PhotoZoom5. PhotoZoom, InstantHD, SizeFixer, PSoft and Retouche do not remove all the aliasing, and the residual aliasing from them is big enough to annoy the eye and small enough to be removed by another filter. For a perfect film look removing all the aliasing is a must and BlowUp3 can do it. Of course in some thin lines and distant trees BlowUp3 also leaves a small amount of aliasing, but I found these situations are impossible to solve. Also BlowUp3 residual aliasing in distant trees and thin lines is always smaller than the other solutions, and the film grain disguises it in a good way, giving an analog chemical film look to the image.

Also remember you can shot 1344x768 @12fps and 1664x944 @8fps in situations where there is not too much motion and convert to 24p with avisynth or twixtor. This just works good for situations with very small motion. 960x544@24p is the way to go for common situations using the tips posted here.

T3i 600D is a low budget "Magic Cinema Camera" now. The worrkflow is a little hard to do, separate audio recording, sync audio in post, long rendering times for dng conversion and upscaling, and so on... Due to this I still believe in good picture styles for fast and easy work in fullhd with sharpening and grading in post. Good to have all the options.

I saw the psd test, for my eyes both looks pretty much the same... only difference is one has more sharpening than other, if the amount of sharpening was the same, they would look almost identical... (I see a difference in the post shape also)

I am doing a test in a jpg sequence to render a video and see blowup3 and photozoom in motion to perceive it better.

As you can read in one of my early posts, I already tested the Power Retouche. It is very very slow in render time... almost impossible to wait... It is not improved to use GPU or multicore CPU. What it does is to find the edges where there are aliasing and smooths the edges without hurt the overall image. But the results are not so much different from PhotoZomm, maybe even worse. I believe if we use photozoom or blowup3 or even instanthd, the Retouche does not make sense... but maybe you can do some tests and try to find some settings which worth using it, apply retouche after photozoom to see if it makes difference...

I am realizing the amount of time and work to shoot raw video considering upscaling and sound sync can be a nightmare... maybe good picture styles in h264 fullhd with some sharpening and grading can be still usefull for easy and fast work.

"Still Working" is a great build

some questions:
why did you re-enable the black side bars in the 640x480 LV, did you find it allows better performance?
what does the new "idle" overlay information meas? sometimes it shows 2%, sometimes it shows 49ms...

feedbacks:
enabling a time count while shooting was great idea
the overlays position are ok now for resolutions up to 1344x768 (16:9)
the bottom overlay half line more to down will be even better for 1344x768 and for 1664x944

This is the result from PhotoZoom Pro 5 with S-Spline Max in generic settings:

To my eyes it is not as powerful as blowup3 in anti-aliasing, but it is less plastic look, maybe a good balance:

I did a test now with the PhotoZoomPro 5 and yes, it is great.

the S-Spline Max Algorithm delivers great results in generic mode.

It deserves a careful comparison with SizeFixer and BlowUp3

Waiting for your tests...

Thanks!

I can record 1024x512@24fps no problem...

The upscaling from 1024x512 to 2048x1024 in ACR works, but it looks bad... lots of aliasing, the other upscaling options in this topic looks better.

Hi, thanks for the video, I saw it.

When I open the 960x544 dng in ACR, in the same dialog box you have the resolutions, it does not have other resolution to choose. Maybe I am using an old version?

ok, it will be nice to see the screen capture video!

Please upload some screen shoots showing us how to do  it.  Also tell us the steps to find this scaling dialog box.