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Messages - ed.jenner

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Yea, second derivative - or take the pink curve where the second derivative is smaller than a threshold.   Not sue if it is going to wok though - depends on exactly what that curve looks like and how close you need to get.

One way I have gotten around fitting data somewhat like this is iterative least squares.  What I did was:

Do least squares, compute standard deviation.
Remove outliers more that 2 SD from fit
Remove outliers more than 1.5 SD from new fit (computed SD from initial fit, not new SD)

This could work depending on the data and how computationally expensive you can work with;  moving in small steps does better, but you may only need 3. at SD 2, 1.75, 1.2 say.

You could also compute the pink curve, then only use the data where the second derivative of the pink curve is below a certain threshold (not sure how variable this will be with different ISO combinations though) and then use iterative least squares on the remaining data.

If the pink and red lines are supposed to always overlap in the center, you could also compute the pink curve and then choose say 40 points (or however many makes sense) on that curve and then use iterative LS to fit a line to those data.  That would be a lot quicker than using all the data and you could do enough iterations to (hopefully) guarantee fitting the center part.

Not sure if any of this is actually helpful, but just in case...

i have read through this post and just wanted to say i fully support the ML philosophy with development as stated through this thread.. I can understand how a fork could seem appealing short term as it looks like more features are available but when you are in the business of reverse engineering or hacking something some degree of consensus is important to ensure the right decisions are made and things remains safe.  thank you for your great work.

Being a programmer (no ML or Canon) of conscience - I can certainly tell when someone else harness that same property.
I have been using A1EX's nightly builds a long time and it is clear that he is a HIGHLY skilled and conscious programmer.

That just about summed up my feelings on the matter.

I have a Sandisk Extreme 16Gb card that when I put into any of my cameras none will turn on.  I should say that all of my cameras have Magic Lantern on them, but I did test normal ML behaviors with a blank Lexar that I have – i.e. camera works fine my ML not loaded. 

The only reason I’m posting this in the Magic Lantern forum is that the only time I have ever seen this behavior is when I accidentally put my 7D ML card in my 5DII (or some other combination of non-unified release card from one camera to another).  So I am wondering if the behavior I'm seeing with a possibly corrupted card might be ML related.

I had been using it on my 5DIII fairly regularly before I had this problem.  I re-formatted it on my PC and it seemed to work again, but after using it once more, taking it out to transfer images and putting it back it the camera I had the same issue.

The strange thing is that I never lost any photos because I can read and write to the card through a card reader on my PC.  I tried formatting it (low level this time) on my PC, but no change.
I’ve already ordered a replacement, but before I toss this card I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what might be up with it.  It just seems such a weird behavior, I mean even if the card door is left open you get the red light blinking, but with this, nothing.

Not sure if this will help as I'm not getting the same message, and I'm on a PC but also just found out that unlike the 5DII, on the 5DIII if I format the card in-camera I removed part or all of ML.

I had a copy, or you can just download the lightly build.  Copy those files to the SD card.  Then I used EOScard (I'm on a PC) to make the SD card bootable again.

I suspect it is the latter step you may be missing.  Perhaps go through those steps, but with whatever Mac users use to make the card bootable (if this is not the crux of your problem).

Note you usually can't make the card bootable with an in-computer card reader, you need an external reader.


Modules Development / Re: Dual ISO - massive dynamic range improvement
« on: August 26, 2013, 08:51:21 PM »
I've seen the same thing on all my files.   Still gives nicer images in some situations than not using it though.

Modules Development / Re: Dual ISO - massive dynamic range improvement
« on: August 15, 2013, 05:26:25 AM »
I would also say for me it looks like not going to be good enough for a high quality landscape shot,
OK, quoting myself, but just trying this on the 7D it's really good.  Seems better than on the 5DII with whatever workflow I used yesterday.  Need to test more on the 5DII, it might be something I'd use for 'serious' shooting where I might want to make a 20x30 print.

Not sure what you are doing in Photomatix, but the DualISO will reduce noise
Just to test, I used the HDR software I prefer and the two shot option is better (without any tone mapping) as expected.

I'm having a little problem with getting the colors to come out right, but it's not a showstopper, just a little extra PP.

Modules Development / Re: Dual ISO - massive dynamic range improvement
« on: August 15, 2013, 03:13:44 AM »
Anyone compared dualISO with a regular 2 expo HDR picture ?
Cause dualISO is fine, you don't need a tripod (!) but it costs in aliasing and resolution.

I would also say for me it looks like not going to be good enough for a high quality landscape shot, but perhaps fine for many other applications.  Now if I could get two full res raw files, one at ISO100 and one at ISO1600 from a single exposure, that would be a real game-changer for times when multiple exposures won't work.  Not sure what you are doing in Photomatix, but the DualISO will reduce noise

I will likely use it when I would normally blow out highlights rather than when the highlights are my primary concern.

Like many of these techniques you need to figure out when it's going to work for you.

General Development / Re: Design proposals for future ML interface
« on: August 15, 2013, 01:05:10 AM »
I'd just like to add my 2c to the original post and the KISS principle.  Personally I don't care if it looks like the current Canon menu or even a Nikon menu - simple as possible, easy to read and effective.   I know it's tempting to get fancy, by the yellow, while not inspiring, looks easiest to read to me.

'cool' should not IMO be a consideration.

Even with the current menu moving the top icons around would be good (audio next to movie, exposure, shoot and focus next to each other, display and overlay next to each other etc..

General Development / Re: Crazy color effects for helping white balance
« on: August 15, 2013, 12:45:27 AM »
I just had to do this today shooting video.  I guess I'm not great at setting WB, don't have a card, seem to have problems with custom WB sometimes in PP etc...  Usually I do OK, but today I was unsure and had the idea of upping saturation momentarily to check.  Worked well and something I think I'd do again.

I'm at least going to create a custom picture style as sergiocamara93 mentioned.

This would be nice, especially if it effectively disabled the dial completely and you'd just change modes in a menu.  For those of us without a Mode dial lock.

Modules Development / Re: Dual ISO - massive dynamic range improvement
« on: August 15, 2013, 12:19:33 AM »
Try both and see.   :)

I haven't been following this from the beginning, but just tried it and the latest version seems pretty good.

However, I guess because my brain works strangely, intuitively I would use it the other way around - set 100 ISO in the Dual ISO menu and shoot the shot at ISO1600.  So I tried this and although the results were reasonable, they were quite different and not as good as shooting 1600/100 with exactly the same aperture and SS.

Is this to be expected?  Simplistically I would have though it would be identical since it's just the ordering that is different.

For me this seems like the almost-perfect 'auto' shooting control.  It takes some playing with to figure out initially what settings are going to work for particular situations, so I imagine you will get a lot of 'how do I use this' from people that don't have the patience to play with it for a while after which it makes total sense.

Of course the first 30mins I tried to use it  I had 'Exposure Lock' on and that did all sorts of strange stuff.  Made me wonder if there is a protocol for ML modules not trampling/fighting on each other.  Might become more of an issue as people add more individual modules, even if we are supposed to be power-users and know what we are doing!

I also don't understand why someone would need it to work in anything by Manual mode because you can set both Av and ISO to a particular value (min=max) and have anything else change exactly as you specify.  I guess you can fix Shutter Speed if you specify the appropriate Av and ISO changes, but in any case I think the minimum is enough and what most people would want the options the way they are.

Now you did mention Exposure Compensation in the first post and I would love to see this because I'm nearly always shooting the 5DII at +1/3 to +1EC.  Without that I basically have to accept that I'm going to be under exposing up to a stop from where I want to be.   Even with changing light, if I'm in Av then I often just leave the EC at +1/3 or +2/3 (1/2 stop increments in EC would be just fine too).

With that and several hours of practice at moving the curves around, the only remaining issue is that it is almost as far removed from 'auto' as one could imagine (in the best way possible).  It's like a real 'P' where you actually program what you want the camera to do depending on the light.

With EC I'd shoot everything but landscapes (for which I use LV and M) using this module.

Feature Requests / Re: Focus bracketing, again :-\
« on: April 10, 2013, 06:11:00 AM »
Whenever I change the focus range with follow focus, I *want* it to be copied to bracketing. It's nice to be able to modify the range afterwards, but I never to rack focus (video) and stacking (stills) at the same time, so this menu item imho is superfluous...

Yes, me too, usually.  It is one extra step, but also allows you to return to the previous bracket is you mess something up while trying to set the rack focus.  It's another thing to remember to do which could be confusing (it took me all of 90 seconds to figure out), but i think I like it.  I make lots of mistakes! 

I also like the fact I can take a shot without starting the focus stacking too - I can take blank frames easily between focus stacks.  I must admit I didn't appreciate all the reasons for the new re-working, but just went in there after installing a recent nightly and it seemed pretty logical to me.  Definitely less frustrating than the 'old' method.  I have not used it for focus bracketing myself, I'm more likely to try it now though.

I guess for me focus stacking isn't a 'quick' procedure (setting up the shot ect..) so having to copy the rack focus settings and going to 'start focus stack' to actually start the stack are very reasonable.  Probably saved me time over the course of doing a bunch of macro shots.

I mentioned this is another thread, but it's probably worth mentioning here.  Anyone having issues with focus stacking should definitely try the nightly, it is much nicer IMO.  If you are used to the old version you might need to tinker with it for a few minutes, but basically it no longer re-sets the number of pictures as easily.  The way I was using it I had to explicitly re-set and/or copy the focus rack settings.  I think it might be one extra step over what I was doing previously, but over a shoot it actually saves a lot of time.  Easy to repeat a stack too if you need to just change the exposure or something moves.

I like it.  A lot.  Thanks!

General Help Q&A / Re: Is Magic Lantern safe? Afraid to try?
« on: April 10, 2013, 05:09:09 AM »
Well I found the new focus stacking to be very nice for one and a while back the ability to set manual in a custom setting for AEB.  I'm on a 5DII, but I assume it will be the same on other cameras.

There is so much in ML though, I would try a nightly and see for yourself for what you use.  You can always go back to the 2.3 version by just copying those files back to the card.  Chances are you will find something you like better though.

General Help Q&A / Re: 5DmkII: Still developing?
« on: April 10, 2013, 04:02:22 AM »
LOL, I went to that link, but couldn't quite figure out what you meant alex.

BUT, to the OP, you want to start loading the nightly builds.  Yes, lots of new stuff for the 5DII.   I try to update every month or so, I think it is worth it.

General Help Q&A / Re: Is Magic Lantern safe? Afraid to try?
« on: April 10, 2013, 03:55:38 AM »
Just to add to that, even the nightly builds are surprisingly stable with good improvements.  Kudos to the developers!

General Help Q&A / Re: Am I to stupid for focus stacking on a 50D ?
« on: April 10, 2013, 03:48:55 AM »
Yes, I wanted to say somewhere that the new focus stacking (nightly builds) is great - much easier to use, much less chance of accidentally resetting the number of pictures to zero.

The only thing that was less intuitive was having to do the 'copy focus rack settings' or whatever it was called.  But it is better and I prefer the new method.

Unfortunately for the OP I have a 5DII.

Feature Requests / Re: config presets
« on: October 31, 2012, 03:13:44 AM »
Right now 'M' mode is not recognized by ML in a C mode, I don't think this is fixed yet (hasn't been flagged as fixed), but a set of custom ML settings would be extremely useful. If they could be saved to a C-mode, that would be even better.

Agreed.  You guys do a great job IMO of putting enough warnings out there that anyone who doesn't fully read and understand what they are enabling and doing before starting to mess with it is 'not sensible' - would be the polite way of putting it.

Probably one reason that we don't get all the options we would like in the Canon firmware - they didn't find a way of completely idiot-proofing it.

Feature Requests / Re: [DONE] Enhanced Exposure Lock in Manual Mode
« on: October 30, 2012, 05:47:31 AM »
I have another - not sure if it is related and will be fixed with the current anticipated fix:

5dII, 100L

Expo. Lock
All on
Tv - Av,ISO
Av - Tv,ISO
ISO - Tv, Av

start with f2.8 1/40s iso 100 - increase shutter speed to 1/400 s, ISO increases as expected (except one 'blip' to f3.2).

However, when I reduce shutter speed, aperture keeps decreasing (f number increasing).

I can write out all the combos if necessary.

General Chat / Re: Don't click me!
« on: August 24, 2012, 04:42:00 AM »
my 500D turned into a 600D, but your 5dII will turn into a nikon coolpix. not a good deal if you ask me.

OK, I tried it.  You were right!  And to boot the Nikon sucks.

Actually I think I was in another thread what it was for (running extra/additional code?), but thanks for the entertainment.

General Chat / Don't click me!
« on: August 23, 2012, 06:06:28 AM »
Anyone try clicking on 'Don't click me!', just to see what happens?  I'm tempted!

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