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Messages - realflow100

#1
Active area is only a tiny square  in the middle of the screen with borders on top and bottom. and MASSIVE borders on both sides.
its probably under 800 pixels wide!

its absolutely tiny and almost no bigger than the display built into my camera :(
#2
Is there any available modules I can get that will allow some kind of functionality like that?

The auto exposure module does not work in video mode. so I can't even use that to try to get it to behave how I want.

Is there any hope?

or should I try to buy a new camera that will have AV/TV/iso ect modes while recording video? I dont have thousands to spend. I bought my 500D for only 100$ used on amazon and I dont have much more than that to spend on a new camera.

All I'm able to do right now is slap an ND filter on while in bright conditions if I want a wider aperture. but that defeats the entire point. I want a higher shutter speed with less motion blur in bright light and wider aperture.

canon makes the aperture ridiculously tiny in bright daylight or outdoors. like F16 and even smaller. especially at long focal lengths with zoom lenses. Even on a cloudy day.
The diffraction causes so much blurryness especially when at long focal lengths!

If im using a tripod I can unscrew the lens slightly which forces the aperture wider. but then I dont have any image stabilization anymore. and no chance of autofocus either.
Too many compromises.
#3
canon 500D black bar on bottom of external display while recording.
Doesnt actually matter if I use magic lantern

if I try to hide the gui it does not fix it. (The gui was taking place of the black bar. and canon does not crop out the black bar on the bottom and expand the display to fill the external display im using)
before recording/while NOT recording its showing full 1080p resolution

as soon as I go to record it changes down to 480p and has black bar on the bottom. and it makes the whole idea of having an external display USELESS because of how small the window is!

Is there any way I can use magic lantern to crop off the bottom bar with the gui hidden while recording video on my canon 500D?
#4
No I'm not using raw. I have no real need to. its a pain to get off the SD card anyways because I prefer using cable to transfer images and video to my computer with.

and I can set the digital gain in magic lantern as high as I want even up to +7 which goes to insane iso if I really wanted to.
i know FPS override will always disable the audio when recording but thats the weird thing. it prevents the crash from happening
so i'm able to real-time set a manual higher iso at whatever I want like 3200 up to 12800 even!
it makes it a lot more usable shooting in low lighting.

only problem is the no audio caused by FPS override.

so I wish i could use magic lantern digital gain without FPS override so I can have sound too.
#5
Camera-specific Development / Re: Canon 500D / T1i
September 09, 2020, 07:38:44 AM
Crash specifically when opening magic lantern interface while recording video

Does not happen when disabling sound by enabling custom FPS (even if I leave the FPS unchanged)

I'd like to be able to use magic lantern interface while video recording to change things like setting manual digital iso boost and also having sound at the same time.
but for some reason I get a crash if I dont enable custom FPS to disable sound.

here is crash logs.

https://paste.gg/p/anonymous/99405b27e5fb4b3190304d4c4ae2486c
#6
I did discover if I enable the custom FPS option to disable sound
it will let me change the iso while video recording by setting a manual iso and boosting or lowering it in the magic lantern digital settings

but if I DONT enable custom FPS
I cant open magic lantern PERIOD while recording video

if that was fixed most likely I would be able to record sound. while also having a custom iso. and not needing a custom FPS. so it seems like it should be possible somehow. artificial canon limitation?

but otherwise its impossible to adjust the iso outside of magic lantern above 1600 while in video mode!
Just Straight Up Impossible.
#8
extended iso range is ALREADY ENABLED but has no effect at all in video mode. it refuses to go above iso 1600 even with the lens cap on and viewfinder covered up.
I have the lowest F stop I can get 50mm F1.8
and shutter speed is not adjustable in video mode.
if I set a manual framerate the video is sped up with no audio and unusable.

Its definitely not the same as changing the exposure in post because the recorded video file has horrendous blocky artifacts if you try to amplify it that way.

I dont want to have to manually do it is there some magic lantern module I can get that works for video mode to allow extended iso range?

And possibly variable shutter speed as well? so it can go down to some set minimum automatically in video mode like 5FPS if its really dark and also raising the iso as well so its not pitch black?
#10
video mode iso only goes up to 1600. extremely dark image in low light :(

im using a canon 500D/rebel T1i with magic lantern installed

How can I extend the auto-iso's range in video recording mode up to the cameras maximum 12800?

my current only option is to stop recording. change the iso to manual and raise digital magic lantern iso up. which is a huge pain and i have to edit separate videos together and wastes a lot of time

Why is canons iso limited to so low in auto video?
The image is way too dark and theres I dont mind if its noisy as long as I can at least see something.

Is there some extra video recording module I can download and add to do this?

Or some kind of similar module?
its super annoying there has to be some sort of solution to this problem. I really want the auto iso to not be limited to 1600. and be allowed to go from 100 to 12800 in video mode automatically.
#11
Just discovered it works fine if i set the exposure length to 1 second or longer. I'm just dumb and was testing it at 0.5 seconds because i was impatient
seems to work fine if I do a long enough exposure it doesnt struggle anymore and the 0.5 second delay works
i can finally get clear sharp photos of the stars without the mirror causing vibrations!
#12
Its already off. I have standby mode off and power save off of any kind i could find.
nothing like that could be causing it I dont think. there has to be something im missing!
#13
Anyone know what i could be doing wrong?
#14
takes one photo then stops why it says intervalometer stopped
why cant i do 0.5s delay for mirror lockup always on + intervalometer set to crazy pics per second?
I want to do this for astrophotography and stacking images but it just WONT WORK
it works if i change from single shot to 2s timer or remote shooting but i dont want an extra 2 seconds or 10 seconds of delay between shots cause then i cant get as many shots as fast
and im doing untracked so it wont work having a longer delay.

it also locks up my camera until i turn it off and back on. I cant go to magic lantern settings. turn off the display. or go to the menu settings nothing happens when i press the buttons
#15
That doesnt work. it gives an error if you pin the mirror with something.
and I dont have a way to buy an SD card reader right now.
This camera is not the 5D its the EOS 500D/rebel T1i
#16
I dont have a cardreader i always use USB because its more convenient
and thats annoying why wouldn't they show up? thats so dumb
i guess i can't ever get those files because they dont show up in USB

I'm using windows file explorer not canons software by the way.

its not worth it anyways I give up. 0.8 seconds is not anywhere remotely near enough for astrophotography
#17
I tried. i did that exactly and it doesnt work.
Nothing happens if i half press the shutter. my camera simply auto-focuses if im not in live view. and does nothing in live view.
and if i disable autofocus. still nothing happens.

if im in manual mode and press the shutter button half way it says "hold on" at the top left for a split second. then the LCD turns off. and i see a blue LED on the live view button for a second. then nothing happens until i press the shutter button again

it never saves a file or anything in any of the folders on the SD card

if i do simple mode. it says it takes a picture but i dont find any files in the folder it says it puts them in!!
#18
Now all that happens when i try to take a picture is the display turns off. i see a blue light for a moment then i see a red light and it goes out and stays like that until i press the shutter a second time
then my live view turns back on

What am i doing wrong?? I dont understand

And 0.8 seconds is useless for astrophotography. most people are using several minute long exposures at least.
or up to 30 seconds untracked with a camera lens.
#19
I did try it without interval timer first. and it didnt work or do anything. i tried changing exposure length and many various settings
Theres no instructions i could find anywhere for using silent mode with full resolution option
It just doesnt do anything when i press the shutter button half way or fully. or hold it down half way or hold it down fully.
it always flips the mirror and shutter and takes a normal photo or does nothing
#20
i just tried the silent mode module thing in full resolution option and NOTHING HAPPENS it just shoots like normal! Totally useless
i even have mirror lockup always on and it still flips the mirror every time no matter what mode i choose!
#21
video mode is unacceptable quality and limited to 1080p so not an option. camera not able to do raw video recording. and wheres the modules tab? i dont seem to have any kind of silent mode
#22
How do I force the mirror to NEVER flip between shots when using interval timer?
my tripod is ultra hyper sensitive to oscillations and i have to wait 15 seconds for it to finally become stable and the mirror flipping causes my images of the stars to look like all the stars are duplicated vertically and smeared by like 50 pixels!

I'm also doing this untracked. camera set to prime focus with a telescope. I still need a field flattener for a cheap 70mm F5.1 refractor telescope cause its a bit fuzzy toward the edges to improve the sharpness at the edges because the view is so wide.
so I need to catch as many frames as possible in quick succession without the mirror flipping causing crazy camera shake.
the first frame looks sharp but all other frames dont because even if i try the best combination of options for mirror lockup "always on" and using interval timer the mirror will start flipping up and down for every frame and i cant get it to stop!

How do I make the mirror stay up aside from pinning it up with a toothpick or some object??